Inaccurate

For sure, wait until you use straight methanol. No reason to do testing on a setup that you are not likely to use.

Try the straight methanol first. If the straight methanol feels better, then you can invest the time to fine tune the nozzle size with straight methanol.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

It's 35 deg F out here. Took my ride out for probably a final fill up and a little spin. Crazy power at the lower temperature even with a rich tune.

But it also showed me my clutch will be on the list for this winter or early next year.

Inaccurate

The J engine loves ingesting cold air. This was one of the leading reasons that I decides to give mine cryogenic air (nitrous).

Thanks for the update KN.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

I like using this thread almost like its my turbo blog lol.

I was under the car yesterday trying to track down a rattle. Its a loud metal on metal rattle coming from under the motor. It only happens when the car is started after sitting for a while and ONLY when the rpms hit around 1000 during idle. It goes away after about 20 seconds. If you apply pressure to the any part of the motor the rattling goes away. I still cant find it grrrr

While I was under the car I noticed the bottom of the transmission was wet so I wiped it with a paper towel and noticed the color of the fluid was pink. I started sh*tting my pants.

I sprayed the case with parts cleaner to try and find a crack or leak but couldnt find anything. After searching for a 1/2 hour, I noticed the return line from the trans cooler where it connects to the banjo fitting on the top/rear of the trans was wet with fluid.

So I changed my underwear, tightened the original clamp, added a 2nd clamp, wiped everything clean and Im hoping that fixed the problem.

Inaccurate

Me like turbo blog

Thanks for the frequent updates.

phee

iTrader: (5)

a lot of the boosted guys at the track had that metal rattly sound coming from under their cars as well. wonder if it is something caused by a turbo. it would go away when the gear was engaged

Silva-type-s

iTrader: (3)

fresh drawers ftw

libert69

iTrader: (7)

It also happens for a seconds when I hit the gas for the first time after leaving from a cold start.

Heres the noise. I think I may have found it but not sure yet. I believe it may be the bolt for the v-band clamp resting on the subframe. There seems to be a few scrapes on the frame

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1QOlH1pwyTE

libert69

iTrader: (7)

New tune with 1st gear leaned out to 14 until 3k rpms. Im getting wheel spin up to 3000 without boost. That only happened before I had the turbo which tells me Im getting the stock power to move off the line which is as good as its going to get without powerbraking. I left the window open so you could hear the tires spinning up to 3000. I get traction for a second then quickly lose it again. When I go back to the track Im definitely going to need a tire upgrade to hook 1st gear. New tune with 10psi coming in a few days.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGIqVTYiX0o

TLdream

iTrader: (4)

^^ nice progress. My offer stands if you want to borrow some DR's. I have be using them at IFO this weekend, but can send them your way next.

phee

iTrader: (5)

x2 for some drag radials. i put down a 14.2 this weekend with a 2.3 60' on bald tires.

im hoping for 13's with the BFG KDW's. i cant even chirp second anymore

I hate cars

Nice! I think you've got your street tire tune covered. Can't wait to see the 10psi tune.

greco9885

iTrader: (1)

im down to go to the track again!

Inaccurate

^ X2 Track time.........With the onboard video camera rolling

Bert - Have you tried the powerbraking again? The ecu allows you to bring the rpm's up a little bit, right? I am curious to see how much that little bit of powerbraking will help now that you have this leaner tune. Perhaps compare the seat-of-pants doing a pedal stab versus the baby powerbrake launch to see which pulls the best coming off the line.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

Thanks. I will definitely keep this in mind

Me too. But running much sticker tires makes me concerned about breaking something. Im still on the original axles.

I can bring the rpms to about 2100. Havent tried powerbraking with the new tune but I will. Havent tried IHC's option of removing the brake pedal postion switch away from the pedal but keeping it plugged in yet.

I hate cars

I like! DRs for the track, NT05s for the street. Great combo.

Ever run the DRs on the street?

BostonSilverTypeS

[quote=libert69;12482542]New tune with 1st gear leaned out to 14 until 3k rpms. Im getting wheel spin up to 3000 without boost. That only happened before I had the turbo which tells me Im getting the stock power to move off the line which is as good as its going to get without powerbraking. I left the window open so you could hear the tires spinning up to 3000. I get traction for a second then quickly lose it again. When I go back to the track Im definitely going to need a tire upgrade to hook 1st gear. New tune with 10psi coming in a few days.

/quote]

Hmmm so much win with that new tune..launching looks so much smoother and faster

nice prelude man, whats it running at the track with the swap!! DR's FTW

TLdream

iTrader: (4)

Havnt tried them on the streets yet. I can say that even with the NT05's i get no traction at all if i go more than about 70% throttole in first or second gear.

The day after i got it running, i tested it and ran a 14.0 at 101 mph just rolling off the line and shifting about 4800rpm. I wasnt sure if anything was going to break so i didnt push it hard. Sunday at IFO in TX i will be pushing it to the limites. Hoping to touch into the 12's.

greco9885

iTrader: (1)

i really cant see u having a problem, because you are not building power off the line. for the MT guys that can build the power and really launch the car, then i see a big problem with the axels

also, can you even burnout in your car? in mine i cant. it just pulls the car forward and drags the rear. tomorrow im going to see if i can burnout in a water puddle

Inaccurate

Doubt that moving the switch away from the pedal will work. Moving switch away from pedal will make the brake light come on. Making the ecu think that you have the brake applied.

We want the opposite. We want the ecu to not know that you are pressing the brake.

Remove the switch from the bracket (but wiring connector still attached) and rig it so that something in continually pressing in the button on the switch.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

I might be able to burnout now in water with the e-brake on. Havent tried yet

Why do we want the button continuously pressed? This is the same thing as leaving the switch where it already is

Inaccurate

We rig the button closed so that you can press the brake pedal to perform the powerbraking without the ecu knowing that the brake is being pressed.

To prevent abuse, the ecu is programmed to not allow much ATP (Absolute Throttle Position) if the brake is being applied.

At rest (without you pressing the pedal), the brake pedal is pushing in on the switch's button. When you press the brake pedal, the pedal moves away from the switch and allows the button to extend.

We need to rig the button so that it always stays pushed in. The button is push in when the brake is *not* being applied. We rig the button closed so that you can press the brake pedal to perform the powerbraking without the ecu knowing that the brake is being pressed.

I have high hopes that this will work. By having the rigged switch, it would be duplicating the same situation as someone trying to begin moving up a VERY EXTREME inclined hill. I would really hope that the Honda engineers would not prevent the engine from making full power to travel up a STEEP incline, even with 0 mph. Full ATP (Absolute Throttle Position / wot) and 0 MPH better be possible for someone stuck at a standstill trying to move up a STEEP incline with a full payload (full weight capacity).

04accordcpe

iTrader: (3)

^^ if thats the case, why not just install a simple line lock on all 4 corners like a B&M launch control? i remember when this GMC hurricane at the street races back in the days used this.. build boost the boost, hit the button and that thing would be gone

Inaccurate

We are trying the brake switch first because this is easier than installing a line lock on the TL.

But the line lock might not be a solution either if the ecu limits the throttle being applied with 0 MPH.

If this brake switch trick fails to work, then a line lock probably will not work either. The only thing that I can think of that will prevent the brake switch from working is if the ecu limits throttle with 0 MPH. And in which case, the line lock would not work either.

Inaccurate

BERT !!!!! We need a turbo blog update

libert69

iTrader: (7)

^LOL

Havent had a chance to try the brake pedal switch mod yet. Awaiting my 10psi re-tune. First tune with 10psi was too lean. Once the new tune has a nice a/f of 12 across the board, Ill be going to the dyno again. 75$ for 3 pulls on a dynojet. I really want to know where I stand with more boost and pure meth.

Had a run with a new srt8 charger on the highway. Unknown mods but sounded louder then stock. 70 to 120. I guess he thought he would walk away from me b/c he didnt want to go on 3 honks. He wanted me to go so he could fly past me. Didnt go that well for him lol

I floored it from 70 and he quickly punched it as well. He was playing catch up all the way to 120ish. He was at my front door when he had to shutdown b.c of traffic. It looked like he was pulling a little bit and possibly would of passed me if we kept going. IDK

Going off the run I had with the GTO I would have to assume this charger was the 6.1L 425hp version

Inaccurate

Thanks for the blog fix. I'm good for a few more days now.

BTW - Where's the vids of the SRT?

libert69

iTrader: (7)

^We were on the way back from a wedding. No video camera. I really need to get some vids.

spiike

Besides libert69, Pass427, and KN_TL... does anyone else have the turbo? or someone in the chicago area?

I'm rather curious how this will do vs a tuned 335i (~400 rwhp).

Inaccurate

Add member "Hi speed" to the list too.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

Havent ran into a tuned one yet but I did encounter what I believe was a stock 335i from 60-90 iirc. I pulled about 3 cars

Majofo

greco9885

iTrader: (1)

it will do good untill the turbo burns out

libert69

iTrader: (7)

Innovative 85a front mount is starting to doughnut a little bit

95a bushings just arrived and need to be pressed in

greco9885

iTrader: (1)

thanks for making me completely second guess the 62a ones i have right next to me...lmao

libert69

iTrader: (7)

are they innovative mounts? If so, I wouldnt even bother with 62a. Go 75a. Call innovative and tell them that all three of the mounts have started to warp. They will either send you new bushings for FREE and you have to get them pressed in, or you can send them the mount with the bushing in it and they will replace it and press it in for free.

i made a 60a bushing doughnut in one day

Possible dyno session on saturday afternoon.

greco9885

iTrader: (1)

i got the xlr8 ones

it was either 62 or 75

libert69

iTrader: (7)

xlr8 mounts have a better design so you should be fine with 62a. Im actually using only the innovative front mount. I have the xlr8 75a side and rear mounts and those are great.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Now I was thinking about getting some forged internals and lowering the compression. Will the ECU adapt to the lower compression or is this going to cause issues.

I hate cars

Fueling requirements will be mostly unchanged.

You may need a degree or two of more timing.

ECU should have no issues.