Turbo Kit for Acura TL '04-'08

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Old 08-12-2010, 10:43 AM
  #3921  
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i was wondering why nobody said anything.

you guys are just used to ignoring me
Old 08-12-2010, 01:25 PM
  #3922  
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate
Well, *now* you tell us

Just joking I had to go back a few pages to find where you first said this.

I think you are correct. I am drawing this as a firm conclusion too.
Easy solution. Nitto NT05R. Traction should no longer be an issue with those.
Old 08-12-2010, 01:27 PM
  #3923  
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate
IHC,

Have you had the chance to see my post from today in the Data Loggers (click here) thread?
I went back and I missed all kinds of posts in that thread. I think some of it is when I check it at work and the pictures don't come up, I just forget about it. I've been thinking about the TC thing for a while now. Going to post back when I get home. The TL behaves pretty typical for a low efficiency factory TC. The new stuff, my $800 convertor in the GN only shows 1% slip at full throttle. I don't even run a lockup anymore.
Old 08-13-2010, 12:03 AM
  #3924  
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Originally Posted by phee
have we reached a conclusion as to why its hitting the limiter? it very well may be tire slip at high rpms like i mentioned a while back.
I remember seeing this but I didnt think it would be something so simple...assuming that this is the reason.

Sometimes the simplest explanation tends to be the right one
Old 08-13-2010, 01:18 PM
  #3925  
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I read this ENTIRE thread over the past 2 days at work (yea, I know my job is silly since I can just sit and read these forums) and wow, amazing work to everyone involved.

I don't have the money to be doing this since I don't have a smog guy and taking it apart every 2 years for California's smog would be too much.

If it was an option for me though I'd definitely be all over this.

The CA emissions aspect is what's making my choice to do a ~$3k stereo not a tough decision between that and a turbo.

Great GREAT work on getting this from an idea to a working and amazing reality.
Old 08-13-2010, 01:40 PM
  #3926  
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If you concidered a 3k stereo in your car over a turbo, the kit might be too hard core for you. The taking the car back to stock for smog is the price you pay for the power.
You could also try a supercharger, they are smog legal.
Old 08-13-2010, 01:47 PM
  #3927  
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Originally Posted by Hi speed
If you concidered a 3k stereo in your car over a turbo, the kit might be too hard core for you. The taking the car back to stock for smog is the price you pay for the power.
You could also try a supercharger, they are smog legal.
Yea, I know about the maintenance/taking it back to stock/getting it tuned correctly, etc. I'd definitely do it but I need a real job out of college first.

I wasn't totally sure superchargers were smog legal though, that's interesting. Even in California where they inspect everything? I guess as long as it doesn't mess with the cat's. Wouldn't there be less of a reason to do anything that big due to bottlenecking the exhaust from the cats. Like you would be wasting your time since your exhaust is still restricted. I dunno haven't looked into superchargers much.


edit: oh and I see you're from San Jose. Next year sometime I'm going to do an audio install from Simplicity in Sound in San Jose. Talked back and forth with Bing and got some ideas in my head. Now just have to save ~3k haha

Last edited by Bleak; 08-13-2010 at 01:50 PM. Reason: random comment
Old 08-13-2010, 02:06 PM
  #3928  
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You can run hi flow cats or deletes and just put your cats back on to smog. The supercharger it's self is CARB 50 state legal and less than half the price of the turbo.
If your looking for good power on somewhat of a budget the supercharger is a good way to go
Old 08-13-2010, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Hi speed
You can run hi flow cats or deletes and just put your cats back on to smog. The supercharger it's self is CARB 50 state legal and less than half the price of the turbo.
If your looking for good power on somewhat of a budget the supercharger is a good way to go
Since I know you've ran both, how much more work would you say getting the turbo back to looking like stock is vs just having to put cats on for smog with a supercharger.

Or is it relatively the same?
Old 08-13-2010, 02:14 PM
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Lets not forget all of the additional costs to make the supercharger somewhat reliable.

It's not worth it to put everything back to stock every 2 years. It's much easier to find a smog guy.
Old 08-13-2010, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
Lets not forget all of the additional costs to make the supercharger somewhat reliable.

It's not worth it to put everything back to stock every 2 years. It's much easier to find a smog guy.
yea that's what I figured since I thought the price of getting the supercharger semi reliable would be close to the same as this turbo setup, with less power.

And I wish I knew how to go about finding a smog guy easily hahahaha. None of my friends are smog guys. Maybe I should go try to make some new friends with smog technicians haha. Would make my modding plans so much more enjoyable.
Old 08-13-2010, 02:27 PM
  #3932  
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Originally Posted by Bleak
Since I know you've ran both, how much more work would you say getting the turbo back to looking like stock is vs just having to put cats on for smog with a supercharger.

Or is it relatively the same?
Just replacing the cats to make the supercharger smog legal would likely be easier. Having a smog guy would be the easiest.

I remember asking my install shop if they do smog and the guy just laughed.
Old 08-13-2010, 02:29 PM
  #3933  
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Ok here's my question. What are the advantages of a electronic boost controller over a mechanical one. Also do I need a higher rate wastegate spring, because I can hear it leaking under boost? The car will go into boost but from 2-10 psi there is no increase in acceleration, maybe a loss. I'm use to having the rpm's go by faster the higher rpm your at.
I have driven factory low boost turbo cars and the power spike is more dramatic. I think my timming is super retarded which is not helping.

Last edited by Hi speed; 08-13-2010 at 02:42 PM.
Old 08-13-2010, 03:02 PM
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From what I read, mechanical controllers are more prone to creep.

I asked the same question about installed spr and if the electronic unit can surpass it but never got an answer. I'd be interested as well.

The interesting thing is that when I was having all kinds of problems with my hoses coming off the wastegate, I would see spikes of 10lbs on a 7lb spring.
Old 08-13-2010, 03:05 PM
  #3935  
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
Lets not forget all of the additional costs to make the supercharger somewhat reliable.

It's not worth it to put everything back to stock every 2 years. It's much easier to find a smog guy.
It would have been every year for me. Thankfully no pipe sniffing here and all I have to do is throw in a cat after the downpipe and they're good.
Old 08-13-2010, 04:09 PM
  #3936  
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What about visual inspection?
Old 08-13-2010, 04:13 PM
  #3937  
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Besides the ease of adjustability, electronic boost controllers will help it to spool quite a bit quicker. Instead of the wastegate beginning to open a few psi before max, it stays closed until it hits full boost.
Old 08-13-2010, 04:44 PM
  #3938  
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Originally Posted by Hi speed
What about visual inspection?
I get inspected by the same place that has the dyno. As long as they see a cat, that is all that matters.

I asked the Acura dealer about it. They would fail me without the pre-cats because they know they are supposed to be there.
Old 08-13-2010, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
Besides the ease of adjustability, electronic boost controllers will help it to spool quite a bit quicker. Instead of the wastegate beginning to open a few psi before max, it stays closed until it hits full boost.
Does the spring dictate the max boost even with the controller?
Old 08-13-2010, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by KN_TL
Does the spring dictate the max boost even with the controller?
The spring will dictate the minimum boost. You usually want a spring within 5-10 psi of the max boost you're going to run. If there's too large of a gap between the spring and boost level you can run into overshooting.
Old 08-13-2010, 08:05 PM
  #3941  
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
Easy solution. Nitto NT05R. Traction should no longer be an issue with those.
my GF runs RE-11's and they grip like bubble gum.
Old 08-13-2010, 08:23 PM
  #3942  
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
The spring will dictate the minimum boost. You usually want a spring within 5-10 psi of the max boost you're going to run. If there's too large of a gap between the spring and boost level you can run into overshooting.
I'm confused.

If I run without a controller and leave the top open, then it's only going to build boost to the spring spec and then begin to leak off, right?

So with an electronic controller, I can't run below 7lbs?
Old 08-13-2010, 08:47 PM
  #3943  
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^OK, call me stupid.

Did some reading and I get what you're saying.
Old 08-13-2010, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by KN_TL
^OK, call me stupid.

Did some reading and I get what you're saying.
No, not at all. There's so much to learn with this turbo stuff.

If you want to see the effects, you can buy a $25 bleeder valve. Works great and helps spool. About 70% as good as a EBC.

Setting boost is so much easier. Just floor it in 3rd gear and turn the knob while it's floored. No guessing.
Old 08-13-2010, 09:15 PM
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I forgot to add and I'm sure you already know but anytime you mess with the vacuum lines or try a new bleeder always get into the throttle slowly. I've ruined my boost gauge by pegging it hard at 30psi from not paying attention to mods.
Old 08-13-2010, 10:19 PM
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could always slap some nos on there j/k
Old 08-14-2010, 08:38 PM
  #3947  
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Just becareful a word of advice and please take this seriously if you're not famaliar with adjusting the electronic boost controller please don't try adjusting and go driving to test it as a wrong setting will and can cause overboosting which will lead to engine failure.........

Ihc we have played with retarding the timing which we've seen are different on various models ,I'd say the auto could use a 5 degree increase...
Old 08-15-2010, 05:51 AM
  #3948  
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
Lets not forget all of the additional costs to make the supercharger somewhat reliable.

It's not worth it to put everything back to stock every 2 years. It's much easier to find a smog guy.
Whoa, whoa, whoa. Now let's just hold up one second here!

IHC, time for you to be-still some knowledge on an ignorant youth such as myself. In other words, I thought superchargers were way more reliable than turbos. For the TL at least.
Old 08-15-2010, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Type-DM 2004 TL
Whoa, whoa, whoa. Now let's just hold up one second here!

IHC, time for you to be-still some knowledge on an ignorant youth such as myself. In other words, I thought superchargers were way more reliable than turbos. For the TL at least.
This has been debated over and over.
Please search and read.
Don't pollute this thread with that debate.
Old 08-15-2010, 10:33 AM
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Old 08-15-2010, 10:52 AM
  #3951  
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I still think that all the mods purchased for the turbo still have to be purchased for the sc. in the end the sc comes in cheaper and u can still get an fic for a safe tune.
Old 08-15-2010, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Hi speed
What about visual inspection?
Missed this one.

Visual here means that if there is one cat, then that's good. I'm not sure if pre-cats is a federal requirement for auto manufacturers but for now, I've found a place that'll inspect it.
Old 08-20-2010, 08:09 PM
  #3953  
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what happened? did everyone finally run out of $? LOL
Old 08-20-2010, 09:07 PM
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Old 08-20-2010, 11:03 PM
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If your car is a daily driver you go the supercharge route.. You can ask 9 out of 10 will agree with me.
Old 08-20-2010, 11:33 PM
  #3956  
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Update:
I have been running the 50/50 100 octane/ 91 octane mix for two tanks now and turned down my boost to 6 psi. The car is running much much better than ever before, the car is adjusting very well to the 95 octane. I'm going to data log tomorrow to get an idea of how the UCM is working. The intercooler works very well in knocking down IAT temps. I seen 140-150 turn into 109 with a little boost in the engine. I might be ready to finally sell the
blower, I have been holding on to just incase the turbo didn't work out.
Old 08-20-2010, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by onefastmachine
If your car is a daily driver you go the supercharge route.. You can ask 9 out of 10 will agree with me.
Only those that don't know much about forced induction.
Old 08-21-2010, 12:07 AM
  #3958  
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Originally Posted by onefastmachine
If your car is a daily driver you go the supercharge route.. You can ask 9 out of 10 will agree with me.

I ran a blower on my DD for years with no issues. I think the durability of many things is dependent on how they are treated. Just because you have a 320 whp car doesn't mean you are using that amount very often.

That kind of power is hard to apply without dying or getting arrested.
Old 08-21-2010, 12:53 AM
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Bert,

Any updates

1) Is the 2nd gear still hitting the limiter?

2) Have you developed a technique to work-around the limiter issue?

3) The racing atf still working good?

4) Any more people fall victim to the sleeper turbo?

5) How has daily driving been with the turbo?

6) Spraying the WMI yet?
Old 08-21-2010, 02:13 PM
  #3960  
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate
Bert,

Any updates

1) Is the 2nd gear still hitting the limiter?

2) Have you developed a technique to work-around the limiter issue?

3) The racing atf still working good?

4) Any more people fall victim to the sleeper turbo?

5) How has daily driving been with the turbo?

6) Spraying the WMI yet?
Hey guys. I was away for the past week on a cruise so no driving for me.

Before I left last saturday I turned the VSA off and did 2 WOT runs from 40mph in auto mode to redline and I did not hit the rev limiter. Ill have to do more runs with the vsa off to see if that solves the rev limiter problem.

Racing ATF is still good and bright pink.

I pulled up next to a brand new audi s8 last week on the highway. The guy looked over at me, hit the throttle a little bit and the roar scarred the piss out of me lol. My exit was coming up but Im sure I would of seen nothing but taillights.

Daily driving is just like a normal TL as long as your out of boost. Even driving in traffic hasnt changed at all.

I still need to get this 2nd bung welded into the intake pipe before I use the WM. Hopefully monday Ill take care of that.


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