Inaccurate

I was wrong about the pre-ignition.

I did some datalogging to track the ignition timing in 4th gear (5AT) under heavy throttle (70% throttle).

The ecu does not pull away any timing when it shifts into 4th gear under heavy throttle (70% throttle). The timing is actually more in 4th (25.5*) than in 3rd (22*).

With the identical situation that caused detonation before, but with my pseudo knock sensor giving me 8* less timing , I had no traces of detonation in 4th gear.

I hate cars

Wow. Good info, I wonder what the engineers were thinking adding more timing in 4th than 3rd. How does it pull now without the detonation and knock retard?

What kind of timing does it run at wide open? At 70% throttle, it's really not very much timing for a NA engine.

Inaccurate

IHC,

You're PM is full again

I don't want to pollute the Turbo thread too much

I have been thinking about starting a separate thread to share stuff that I learn from the DashDyno data logging.

I had not done so yet because I didn't think people would really care.

But as long as I have you being interested, that is enough for me.

In a day or two, I will start a new thread in the Off-Topic section. I will send you a link when I have the new thread created.

I hate cars

Sorry about that. It's cleaned out now. Sounds interesting, can't wait to read about it.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I'm interested as well! Please start it.

pass427

I think everyone values your input and also appreciates it , we all know not everyone listens thou , the info you offer is very informitive , I even suggested a new thread which is turned out well.... Inacurrate have u been able to data log a Tl with positive pressure ?
I'd love someone other than myself datalog or scan tool this and see what results they came up with under boost...
Starting a new thread also cleared up confusion of the kit requiring a timing control unit other than what we offer with the kit ..

Silva-type-s

iTrader: (3)

We need an "Inaccurate Sticky"

lol

Osirus

any pics yet

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

TIMMY K TL

the acura TL only 5 psi of boost making around 300+ whp NO more then 10 psi of boost the engine will broke,transmission will over roll

TIMMY K TL

where did u buy the Turbo kits? custom make or ..how much the cost ? also how many wtp on it ? any engine light turn on ?

I hate cars

There's a 50 page thread with all the info you could ever want on the turbo kit. Try a search.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

My car is growing.
I noticed that without the blower and battery in the engine conpartment my car sits alot higher than it did before. About 100 lbs off the front end, maybe a little less. My parking ball scrapes across the hood now. I have been trying to figure out what was going on for awhile now and today it came to me, I pulled a bunch a weight off the front end.

Majofo

Do you have a DGP or is that another color?

Safe to assume you didn't close the garage door on your rear bumper?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

no, it's AM. A combination of camera flash and florescent lights make for weird color reps.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

My AFR is finally up and running.
My car had a nasty voltage leak, my AFR gauge would read either 7.4 or 22 and I couldn't get my wipers off to do the UCM, but I was sooo busy that I haven't had time to get this stuff fixed until now.
Dropped the car off Monday to remedy the situation and went by this morning to pick it up.
The car.

It's running better than when it arrived and my AFR gauge finaly works. Another plus is I don't need to jump the car everytime I turn it off. The only downside is the tuner I use is out of town for 2 weeks so I have to wait on getting retuned. Rodney did send me a Fic with the original tune so I might plop that in since my AFR is working and see how it runs.

I hate cars

Nice! Can't wait to see how it turns out.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

So I have my car back and was told my Braille battery has to go. I thought I had a huge voltage leak that would cause the battery to drain to the point of resetting the ECU, but it turns out since the battery was relocated to the trunk the extra cable is eating all my voltage causing the battery to die. I know innaccurate's running a braille that is two sizes smaller than what I am running ( 17 lbs) to his (11 lbs) and never heard of any issues other than the car can't sit for more than two days. My question is does this seem strange? I am $240 into this battery with the mount, so looking for something I can do to to keep it. I don't drive the car very far anymore so that is a problem but complete discharge is crazy. I am driving around with a stock TL battery in the trunk to jump my self, so much for a lightweight battery, I'm running a 67 lbs battery with them both in there.

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

I used the optima battery, yellow top in the trunk and the car sits for a couple days at a time and no trouble. I was reading that those smaller batteries are worthless and really are a waste because they aren't big enough for our cars.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

What size cable did you run from the battery to the fuse box/starter?

HQTL6SPD

^The B3121 (21lbs) has never gave me a single problems for about 3 yrs now. Works just like when it was new, and I only commute local..

I hate cars

What size cable did you run? I always run the 00 welding ground cable.

pass427

For my setup i used a 0 guage wire kit from front to the trunk and 2 ground points from battery to the chasis

I hate cars

Redundant grounds are great. It's always good to overdo it and have multiple paths in case one of them fail. Are you sure you're running 0 gauge? Just seems a little thin for that long of a run but if you're having no problems I guess I'm wrong.

I hate cars

The more I think about it, this is probably the reason your car is having performance issues. If it's running on the battery or if voltage is even a little low, the car will feel lazy and down on power. It will also make it more detonation prone. In my world, we even use a thing called a volt booster that at 10psi raises overall voltage to nearly 16V. The only downside is at night time if you get on the throttle, it looks like you're flashing your brights at people.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I'm running 0/1 wire and to be honest, I haven't checked what voltage I am getting at the under hood fuse box.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I running what I think is 0 gauge wire, but I will have to look at my summit reciept. Looks like I will be getting more that beer from Costco for this weekend. I don't use optima batteries since they changed manufactures and became crap. I have gone thru 5-6 Red and yellow tops in the last 2-3 years in my race mustang. The multiple ground idea is also something I will be doing just to be safe.

Inaccurate

Found another great thread on this topic.

100% pure meth over mix (click here)

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I tried to install my oil cooler over the weekend , but couldn't find a good spot with the intercooler and everything else under there. I changed the oil late last week letting the car cool for 90 mins and the oil was still very hot so I think the cooler is needed. If anyone has ideas for where I should mount it, I would like to hear them. I have one more place I need to look at tomorrow, but there is not many places.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

what are the dimensions on the cooler?

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

1/0 gauge to JL distributor block with two 4 gauge JL audio wires with one going to starter and one going to fuse box.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

2 inches thick, 13 inches long, and 4 inches tall. I am looking at the passenger side lower grill, but it's going to be tough. I want to use the wiper fluid container for my meth injection but may need to remove it to mount the remote oil filter and cooler.

watermelonxi

how much did you spend on the whole system?

phee

iTrader: (5)

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

There's only 3/4" between the intercooler and AC coils. I was able to put a power steering cooler in between so I'll likely go that route and just use a sandwich adapter.

Since I found Julio's kit on ebay, I am going to go 100% alcohol and don't want it in my trunk. So I'm looking at putting the tank on the left side outside the charge pipes behind the fender or somewhere on that side. I don't want to lose my windshield washers.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

You are running a PS cooler? I was going to put the oil cooler in front of the intercooler, but didn't want the heat transfer. That's good news on the meth injection kit, especaly if you can tune with it.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys...on the back of variable controller for the snow meth kit there is a nozzle that needs a boost line fed into it. I know rodney wants to use the nipple from the motor mount pump as a vacuum source for the boost controller. Can a boost line off this nipple be split in 2 directions so I can supply the boost controller and the meth controller at the same time? Or will that cause inconsistent readings in both units?

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

I taped my AEM into the boost gauge.

I hate cars

It depends on the type of boost controller but it should work fine. However, I like to run the critical lines like the meth signal vacuum line as it's own dedicated line. That way, in the unlikely event the boost controller or motor mount line develops a leak, the meth is unaffected.

Keep in mind, some types of boost controllers actually bleed off vacuum via a controlled leak. This would affect meth trigger. I don't know about your setup but on some setups this could cause erratic trigger points.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

Im guessing you used a simple "T" fitting?