I hate cars

I almost bought a Shelby GT350 in highschool or at least I think that's what it was called. It was an original Shelby Mustang with the 289 and the Shelby "cougar" tail lights. Only mod was 3 2bbl carbs, probably slowed it down from being over carbed lol. Then I found the GN for $3,600 and the rest is history.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Look at that front valance. Here are a couple of pics of my road race mustang, running a CHP (Coast Hi Performance) 302 stroked to 347 ci connected to a 91 mustang T-5 tranny and a Ford 9 inch rearend with 3.72's

I have been using it lately to keep the turbo and install parts from prying eyes.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Is anyone running a turbo heat shield? I looked at the J&R site and Rodney looks to have one on the test car. I looked on summit and they have them, but $200. My concern is the turbo being so close it melts stuff.

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Completely off-topic, but what happened to Opel?

Inaccurate

DIY - Turbo Heat Shield (click here)

Majofo

MoneyPit's heat shield

phee

iTrader: (5)

use a stanless steel pot. they are easy to fab.

opel is fine. he just doesnt love us anymore

libert69

iTrader: (7)

is a heat shield really necessary?

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

The turbo just looks close to the hood and the radiator and I don't want to melt anything.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Does anyone know if the turbo is a T-4 or T-3?

I hate cars

Theres not really a clear t3 t4 anymore. What spec are you looking for in particular?

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I need to get my heat shield and some shields say for T-3 and others for T-4. I got my eye on this REI polverized lava rock super heat shield from Summit Racing. I have looked at the Ebay versions but like the look of the REI.

Inaccurate

This one ?

DEI Titanium Turbo Shields (click here)

I hate cars

Oh, 3 bolt vs 4 bolt turbine houisings... There are many different sizes but 3 bolt vs 4 bolt will give you the basic shape at least.

It's always a good idea to keep as much exhaust heat in the turbo to make it more efficient and spool quicker. However, this is the one and only spot I could be careful with. It would be better to make a metal shield with a slight air gap between the turbo and shield.

You coke the oil in the bearings when you shut the engine down and the heat from the turbine side migrates into the center section. A blanket is going to hold much more heat in so you will likely get more heat in the bearings and it will transfer for a greater length of time.

Here is the stock factory GN turbo shield.

You can see how it fits over the hot side but leaves plenty of room for air to flow between the turbo and shield and protects the cold side. This way you're keeping everything around the turbo without trapping excess heat in the turbo. Sometimes factory setups are good to copy.


Rear view:



Wider view:

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

That's the one.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

Hi speed, are you removing that liner/padding on the inside of the hood? I feel like that might catch fire lol

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

Isn't that fire resistant liner?

phee

iTrader: (5)

fire resistant doesnt mean inflammable. remove it. it doesnt help at all. if ur car is on fire the last thing u are gunna worry about is the hood getting hot

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

True. But it also doesn't mean that its going to start the fire. I would remove it anyway, like you said if your cars on fire the last thing your going to worry about is the hood. The ironic part about what we both said is that this turbo kit all said and done is under the hood and worth just about as much as a used 04 TL so I would actually try to save the engine first.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I hate cars

The hood liner is there to slow down an underhood fire. It drops down when there's a fire and smothers it. While the odds are very low that it will put a fire out, it will slow it down considerbly giving you more time to put it out. I would not remove it.

And once again, the turbo blanket is a bad idea. Sheet metal shield is the only way to go.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

The metal heat shield is alot cheaper than the blanket, so that's a plus.

turbocivic94

Damn, That looks confusing. Which manifold goes in the front head?

I hate cars

By looking at it I would say the Y pipe in the front bolts to the front head and feeds the turbo and picks up the rear bank. It should face toward the battery.

The other pipe with the square flange goes on the rear head and faces down.

The other two pipes connect the front and rear bank together, tieing into the Y pipe.

Majofo

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Update: I went to pick the car up on Friday guys said he needed until Monday to get it done. Last night he calls me to say the harness is messed up and the car is throwing a million codes, wouldn't start. I will be going over to the shop tomorrow to see what needs to be done. I guess I will be sending the harness back out to be fixed. I was told everything else is done on the car and this harness issue is one of the lasts.
I will post some pics tomorrow.

I badly need to get my car back, comming up on three weeks in the shop and the wife is going to kill me. Not to mention the million other people who know about the build and keep asking when it's going to be done.

Majofo

You should send pics to Paul to see if he can notice the issue. It's probably something you guys can fix without sending it back if it is indeed the harness that isn't pinned correctly.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I will take some pics to see if we can diagnose the problem. It would be great if I didn't have to send the harness back, so much time is lost to shipping.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Are you throwing codes with the harness just jumpered without the FIC?

That is 2nd thing that J&R has you test, right after installing the fuel pump.

Mine had a injector pin come out and it was missing like crazy. I guess AEM must use garbage connectors as Rodney said this happens to him pretty often.

NVA-AV6

Make sure you have the right harness, 06 MT only they drastically changed the ECU pinouts, they did not change the physical connectors, just the signal locations....

As much as I hate to do it I think I will be expoxying the pins into the fic connectors, I too have run across this a couple of times, but have noticed it only happened to me when the hearness was handled roughly.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Mine is only marked with 06 TL. I guess it would be time to look at the ETM if I have problems.

I was just installing the harness with the jumpers installed so I didn't abuse the fic connections. Using epoxy definitely works.

NVA-AV6

What codes were thrown?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I haven't tried again since I found the loose pin. I was just mentioning that my harness wasn't marked as MT or AT.

No problems here yet and I don't expect there to be any since the only problem I had was a rough idle which would have been caused by the pin that was not making contact.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I just popped my harness in with the jumpers attached and we're good. The miss and blinking CEL is gone.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

How can I tell a MT harness from an auto? Looks like the Fic will be hardwired into the system. I am just waiting on the directions on how to wire it in.

I went by today to check things out and he had the car started, but the Fic was not hooked up. Everything else is done so, we are very close to up and running. I forgot to bring my camera so no pics at the moment.
I think part of my codes were from the bad ground I had with my relocated battery.

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

MT has four connectors and automatic has 5 connectors for the harness.

Majofo

I'm glad everything is working out, keep us updated as the fine tuning goes along.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I've got an MT and it has 5 connectors. Paul has already said it just has different pinouts.

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

Interesting because I just ordered the AEM harness for the AEM FIC and mine had 4 connectors and my friends auto had 5. Maybe I'm going crazy and its the other way around but I am positive its that way. Our TLs are 05 if that matters.

phee

iTrader: (5)

the 06 uses 5 connectors