Turbo Kit for Acura TL '04-'08
03-07-2010, 01:46 AM
#3122
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
It's nice to see everything coming together!
03-07-2010, 07:05 PM
#3125
Burning Brakes
don't feel like reading everything, has the Ua7 TL-S been boosted successfully without no problems and does anyone know how the 5at will handle boost, under 350whp....(i know xiomaro is boosted hows the car holding up bro, and do you drive her hard or go easy?
03-07-2010, 07:40 PM
#3126
With the direction this kit is heading, does anyone think a wideband o2 gauge with 2 outputs (PLX) is worth it?
I'm a bit confused about the current piggy back system and how the ECU handles the narrowband measurements.
With the F/IC, I understand there are static maps that deliver fuel to achieve a a/f ratio.
But what happens in the ECU with the stock algorithm?
Would there ever be a need to have both wideband and/or narrowband outputs if say the ECU can be reprogrammed?
Please excuse me if any of these statements are WAY off. I am trying to educate myself.
I'm a bit confused about the current piggy back system and how the ECU handles the narrowband measurements.
With the F/IC, I understand there are static maps that deliver fuel to achieve a a/f ratio.
But what happens in the ECU with the stock algorithm?
Would there ever be a need to have both wideband and/or narrowband outputs if say the ECU can be reprogrammed?
Please excuse me if any of these statements are WAY off. I am trying to educate myself.
03-07-2010, 08:10 PM
#3128
Burning Brakes
03-07-2010, 08:57 PM
#3130
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
^ I'm pretty sure he is.. although I'm sure he's 
about it..
about it..
03-07-2010, 09:59 PM
#3131
Team Owner
With the direction this kit is heading, does anyone think a wideband o2 gauge with 2 outputs (PLX) is worth it?
I'm a bit confused about the current piggy back system and how the ECU handles the narrowband measurements.
With the F/IC, I understand there are static maps that deliver fuel to achieve a a/f ratio.
But what happens in the ECU with the stock algorithm?
Would there ever be a need to have both wideband and/or narrowband outputs if say the ECU can be reprogrammed?
Please excuse me if any of these statements are WAY off. I am trying to educate myself.
I'm a bit confused about the current piggy back system and how the ECU handles the narrowband measurements.
With the F/IC, I understand there are static maps that deliver fuel to achieve a a/f ratio.
But what happens in the ECU with the stock algorithm?
Would there ever be a need to have both wideband and/or narrowband outputs if say the ECU can be reprogrammed?
Please excuse me if any of these statements are WAY off. I am trying to educate myself.
Yes, it's a great idea to have a way to monitor AF ratio.
It's an even better idea to have a way to monitor knock. I can not say this enough.
Every parameter you monitor for the safety of the engine is to prevent knock. Nothing will destroy an engine quicker than knock, not an over boost, not a lean AF. I've said it for years but to the best of my knowledge there's no one doing it.
I see lots of AF guages and that's great. And if you go too lean you can cause knock but the worst side effect is usually very high EGTs which over prolonged periods can burn exhaust valves.
My point is we monitor all of these things that can trigger knock but it makes no sense to not measure the one thing we're trying to prevent.
03-07-2010, 10:30 PM
#3133
03-07-2010, 11:23 PM
#3134
pic of knockbox (knock link)
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-photograph-gallery-53/some-current-pics-480421/
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-photograph-gallery-53/some-current-pics-480421/
03-08-2010, 02:56 AM
#3137
^It depends on how high you set the steering wheel coupled with how low/high your seat is set. With the way I sit and the position of the steering wheel, the boost gauge blocks a part of the outside temperature display. The top part of the a/f gauge is positioned right in the lower center of the tach. So Im really not losing sight of anything.
03-08-2010, 07:51 PM
#3138
Burning Brakes
i know he is 6spd, but I was asking if anyone knew how the 5at Type-s Tranny would hold under boost? I've been thinking of going darkside but nothing crazy just to get me under 350whp....wondering if thats too much power for the auto trans or not....didnt know if anyone has put some serious power with 5at, feel free to post if you are currently running a boosted automatic and how much power and what issues have you have towards the trans.....
03-08-2010, 08:45 PM
#3139
Team Owner
i know he is 6spd, but I was asking if anyone knew how the 5at Type-s Tranny would hold under boost? I've been thinking of going darkside but nothing crazy just to get me under 350whp....wondering if thats too much power for the auto trans or not....didnt know if anyone has put some serious power with 5at, feel free to post if you are currently running a boosted automatic and how much power and what issues have you have towards the trans.....
I think the turbo kit is going to present a whole new set of problems for the auto due to it's torque curve. While the supercharger ramped up as the rpms went up, the turbo makes a ton of torque at lower rpms at lower throttle and more torque total too.
I don't believe anyone has broken the auto yet but someone correct me if I'm wrong. As far as I know they've only been burned up from slipping clutches.
From Inaccurate's research, the Ford Type F fluid will give the clutches 50% more dynamic and 100% more static holding power. This would be the first step and a very good step in making the auto hold the power. Take a look at his thread, shift quality is great, no negatives just very quick shifts.
I touched on this a few pages back in this thread but if the fluid alone isn't enough we're going to have to ramp up line pressure to match the new torque curve of the turbo engine. This is very common. In the old days it was a shift kit, in modern days it's usually electronics first and shift kit if the electronics don't have the ability.
Replacing the 3rd and 4th gear switches is mandatory.
What we would have to do is trick the computer into raising line pressure earlier and with a higher total pressure.
But for now I have high hopes for the fluid. 50% and 100% are huge numbers.
03-09-2010, 02:16 PM
#3141
Team Owner
Most commonly we turn up the hydraulic pressure to the clutches, add a less slippery fluid (type f with noFM) or last and not very common, open it up and install better clutches which won't work any better without the higher line pressure.
03-09-2010, 05:11 PM
#3142
Does the aem fic have to ability to raise the rpms at idle while in drive and park?
I made a thread about why I was concerned about this
http://www.tl.acurazine.com/forums/s...d.php?t=766922
I made a thread about why I was concerned about this
http://www.tl.acurazine.com/forums/s...d.php?t=766922
03-09-2010, 08:04 PM
#3146
Team Owner
It would be wonderful if all we had to do is change the signal a little or drill an orifice on/at/near the solenoid a little larger. I wonder if the ecm checks line pressure or it's it's just calculated via the pw for the solenoid.
03-09-2010, 08:27 PM
#3147
Burning Brakes
The most power I've seen an auto hold was from one of the supercharged TLs and it was 320ish at the wheels.
I think the turbo kit is going to present a whole new set of problems for the auto due to it's torque curve. While the supercharger ramped up as the rpms went up, the turbo makes a ton of torque at lower rpms at lower throttle and more torque total too.
I don't believe anyone has broken the auto yet but someone correct me if I'm wrong. As far as I know they've only been burned up from slipping clutches.
From Inaccurate's research, the Ford Type F fluid will give the clutches 50% more dynamic and 100% more static holding power. This would be the first step and a very good step in making the auto hold the power. Take a look at his thread, shift quality is great, no negatives just very quick shifts.
I touched on this a few pages back in this thread but if the fluid alone isn't enough we're going to have to ramp up line pressure to match the new torque curve of the turbo engine. This is very common. In the old days it was a shift kit, in modern days it's usually electronics first and shift kit if the electronics don't have the ability.
Replacing the 3rd and 4th gear switches is mandatory.
What we would have to do is trick the computer into raising line pressure earlier and with a higher total pressure.
But for now I have high hopes for the fluid. 50% and 100% are huge numbers.
I think the turbo kit is going to present a whole new set of problems for the auto due to it's torque curve. While the supercharger ramped up as the rpms went up, the turbo makes a ton of torque at lower rpms at lower throttle and more torque total too.
I don't believe anyone has broken the auto yet but someone correct me if I'm wrong. As far as I know they've only been burned up from slipping clutches.
From Inaccurate's research, the Ford Type F fluid will give the clutches 50% more dynamic and 100% more static holding power. This would be the first step and a very good step in making the auto hold the power. Take a look at his thread, shift quality is great, no negatives just very quick shifts.
I touched on this a few pages back in this thread but if the fluid alone isn't enough we're going to have to ramp up line pressure to match the new torque curve of the turbo engine. This is very common. In the old days it was a shift kit, in modern days it's usually electronics first and shift kit if the electronics don't have the ability.
Replacing the 3rd and 4th gear switches is mandatory.
What we would have to do is trick the computer into raising line pressure earlier and with a higher total pressure.
But for now I have high hopes for the fluid. 50% and 100% are huge numbers.
Good shit, so I mean if that's TL's numbers for auto, I'm assuming then that the Auto for the UA7 TL-S is a little bit beefier or not? This is my first automatic car so automatic is one area that I really dont know too much of, trying to get to know it more and if it handles boost well....I know in the american muscles it handles boost great as im sure you know too well ""I hate cars"", but in the import world or at least HondaWorld they are very crappy trannies...either way back to TL-S holding around 340-350whp i'd be happy with the and that tranny fluid Ford Type-F I'll have to keep that in mind in my next trans fluid change
p.s. wish our trasmission was like that of the 335d which is good for the 459lbs/tq it holds from factory,,hmmm that would be nice....only in my dreams
Last edited by BostonSilverTypeS; 03-09-2010 at 08:31 PM.
03-09-2010, 08:33 PM
#3148
03-09-2010, 08:34 PM
#3149
Wow, that's great info. I still haven't had a chance to look into anything.
It would be wonderful if all we had to do is change the signal a little or drill an orifice on/at/near the solenoid a little larger. I wonder if the ecm checks line pressure or it's it's just calculated via the pw for the solenoid.
It would be wonderful if all we had to do is change the signal a little or drill an orifice on/at/near the solenoid a little larger. I wonder if the ecm checks line pressure or it's it's just calculated via the pw for the solenoid.
03-09-2010, 09:58 PM
#3150
Safety Car
I found this just now while searching for something. If anyone is bored, it is a fun read in a Twillight Zone sort of way. From 2006, then jump forward in time to this thread. Life is interesting sometimes.
**Official 3G Turbo TL Thread** (click here)
**Official 3G Turbo TL Thread** (click here)
03-09-2010, 10:15 PM
#3151
Team Owner
I found this just now while searching for something. If anyone is bored, it is a fun read in a Twillight Zone sort of way. From 2006, then jump forward in time to this thread. Life is interesting sometimes.
**Official 3G Turbo TL Thread** (click here)
**Official 3G Turbo TL Thread** (click here)
03-09-2010, 10:20 PM
#3152
Safety Car
Was this thread (linked below) discussing how to raise the line pressure in the 5AT?
Transmission Solenoids Adjustment (click here)
Transmission Solenoids Adjustment (click here)
03-10-2010, 02:07 AM
#3154
It's a series of clutch packs. A series of small 5" clutches and steels for each gear. They are bathed in trans fluid and applied by a piston by hydraulic pressure.
Most commonly we turn up the hydraulic pressure to the clutches, add a less slippery fluid (type f with noFM) or last and not very common, open it up and install better clutches which won't work any better without the higher line pressure.
Most commonly we turn up the hydraulic pressure to the clutches, add a less slippery fluid (type f with noFM) or last and not very common, open it up and install better clutches which won't work any better without the higher line pressure.
03-10-2010, 04:19 AM
#3155
u would need to take the trans apart either find some or have a company make u stronger/more aggressive clutch packs. or u can drill out the passages in the valve body (and if i still remember) that should give u a more aggressive engagement
03-10-2010, 04:46 AM
#3156
Cut and splice into the two wires and add a toggle switch to simulate the pressure switch.
03-10-2010, 08:58 AM
#3157
Team Owner
03-10-2010, 10:05 AM
#3158
Ok, I was wrong, it is all three linear solinoids that control clutch pressure, so what we need is a piggyback that just like one that reads the pulse width on a fuel injector and adds X% to the width, we need the same thing here to increase clutch pressure. And as you can see the 3rd and 4th pressure switches are just preset open/close switches.
03-11-2010, 02:54 AM
#3159
Cruisin'
Join Date: Feb 2010
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I've logged 11,000 miles on the NT05 in 255/40/17 size on stock rims.
I can't say enough about these things. They're not that loud. Treadwear is stated as 200 but it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Mine have over half the treadlife left right now which is very good for such an aggressive tire.
Straight line traction is higher than average but they really shine in the corners and braking. Cornering is unreal. Under braking the seatbelt will be the only thing holding you in. They communicate what's going on to the driver better than any street tire I've run on.
Wet traction is no worse than any other tire I've been on and I've had lots of chances to test it lately. Large deep puddles might not be a good idea but I've been through some stuff at freeway speeds that I was a little uneasy about but there were no hydroplaning problems.
Tire manufacturers have learned that the two large channels around the circumference of the tire are actually more effective at reducing hydroplaning than the sideways sipes.
Basically wear is a little quicker than a normal street tire but not bad. Traction will amaze you, I've never had anything legal come close.
Noise is average.
Wet traction is average.
You will never want to go back to normal tires again. My friend just bought a set for his Mercedes AMG CL65 after riding in the TL.
But for pure straight line acceleration you still can't beat a street legal Drag Radial whether it's Nitto, MT, or BFG.
I can't say enough about these things. They're not that loud. Treadwear is stated as 200 but it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Mine have over half the treadlife left right now which is very good for such an aggressive tire.
Straight line traction is higher than average but they really shine in the corners and braking. Cornering is unreal. Under braking the seatbelt will be the only thing holding you in. They communicate what's going on to the driver better than any street tire I've run on.
Wet traction is no worse than any other tire I've been on and I've had lots of chances to test it lately. Large deep puddles might not be a good idea but I've been through some stuff at freeway speeds that I was a little uneasy about but there were no hydroplaning problems.
Tire manufacturers have learned that the two large channels around the circumference of the tire are actually more effective at reducing hydroplaning than the sideways sipes.
Basically wear is a little quicker than a normal street tire but not bad. Traction will amaze you, I've never had anything legal come close.
Noise is average.
Wet traction is average.
You will never want to go back to normal tires again. My friend just bought a set for his Mercedes AMG CL65 after riding in the TL.
But for pure straight line acceleration you still can't beat a street legal Drag Radial whether it's Nitto, MT, or BFG.
