Inaccurate

Yes. This happens while in normal Drive mode, not SportShift. The article just uses that term for the overall trans.

5-Speed Sequential SportShift Automatic Transmission

* Quick-response Sequential SportShift allows semi-manual operation
* Coordination between Drive-by-Wire Throttle System and transmission makes for quicker, smoother shifts
* Intuitive 5-position shift gate
* Advanced shift-hold control limits Up-Shift during aggressive driving mode
* Lockup torque converter design for superior fuel economy
* Advanced Grade Logic Control System reduces gear "hunting" when driving on steep hills
* Linear solenoid direct-acting control reduces shift shock and improves smoothness

Yes on the certain sequence while in Drive mode (not sportshift). WOT, sudden release of the throttle (complete or partially ), immediately touch the brake (just enough to cause the brake light to come on should do it), immediately back into the throttle and the same gear will be there. It is really easy to tell when it happens because you take off like a rocket when you get back into the throttle.

Very, very seldom do I ever engage this sequence of events to trigger it. Usually it is when I am driving aggressively (wot). A car pulls into my lane unexpectedly and causes me to tap the brake as I think of an escape route. I quickly spot an opening and I get back into the throttle and wham... "holy shit, didn't expect that, but it sure is nice."

I never, ever use SportShift. I drive my car mainly in rush hour traffic. As you have now experienced that quickness, you can better understand the following. You don't want to remove your eyes off of the road to glance at the tach when you wot in traffic.

As Phee said, the sportshift is ok to use. The sportshift executes the shift the same as the auto mode. It is just that you are deciding when the shift will occur instead of the ecu deciding when.

In regards to Phee's theory about the spinning at the top part of 1st gear. I sometimes spins all thru 1st gear before it shifts into 2nd. However, I never had it to refuse to upshift into 2nd automatically. Nor has mine hit the rev limiter. Even when I wot in 1st gear in the rain.... TCS on most of the way thru 1st gear (see data logging thread recent postings) with my foot planted to the floor the whole time. And, my trans will do the 1-2 gear change with no problems. Quick shift into 2nd, right on time at 6500 RPM, with no rev limiter. I have done wot in 1st gear during rain many times. I love to show the other guy how well my TCS can work.


For sure that you need to experiment to see what fits you personally. I see nothing wrong with the above plan of using SS. As Phee said, you will need to learn to hit the gear knob several 100 RPM sooner to compensate for the lag time for it to actually execute the change.

You don't want to remove your eyes off of the road to glance too often at the tach when you wot in traffic. Maybe it is just me. But to clear my conscious, I wanted to include the warning.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

^

Libert vs 2011 bmw m3 competition package 414hp 295lb tq...driver said 460hp though .....I never heard of that

From a standstill I was seeing nothing but his bumper. I cant even spin the tires in first. There is too much lag until 2500 rpms then the car throws you back into the seat. The torque steer really isnt that much worse then stock. Maybe its because I have the suspension set to full stiff all-around.?.

From a 40 mph roll in auto mode up to 105 he had about 1.5 car lengths

From a 40 mph roll with me 1 car length ahead to start, he pulled about 3/4 car length to 105

Need more power lol

Inaccurate

Sir, Please step away from the Boost Controller.

Good job hanging with the M3. Good to hear that you getting some action. Any more french kissing with the rev limiter? What shifting technique did you use with the M3?

And where's IHC

libert69

iTrader: (7)

I wont touch the boost controller lol

I did not bang off the rev limiter today. I stayed in auto mode. I honestly find this way to be much easier to use since Id rather have both hands on the wheel. Im starting to get an ear for what the car sounds like around 6k rpms so I can quickly glance at the tach before lifting to shift. Lifting the foot to shift also gives me piece of mind that Im not causing any unwanted problems with the extra power.

With the m3, I slightly lifted off the throttle around 6000-6200 rpms to cause a shift to 3rd then hit the throttle again. Im discovering that I dont need to fully remove my foot from the pedal to cause a shift. I know its going to take lots of practice to find that sweet spot but its slowly happening. Once I can really get a feel for how much movement I need in my foot to cause a shift, I will be bringing the rpms closer to 6500-6700. Every little bit counts

pass427

Good job I'm guessing with a retune results will be very pleasing but all round I'm glad your enjoying the car and that my friend is win in my book tl auto BMW m3 400+ hp 1 car 1-2 car lengths .

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

You scared the shit out of the m3 driver. He is $80k into his car and you just gave him a run for his money in an auto TL. I raced a couple of the new M3's with the supercharger and they can pull very hard.

I hate cars

Better yet, he's letting off the gas and getting back on it with every gear yet he barely lost to a 400hp car. There's no doubt if he could have kept his foot into it the TL would have come out the winner.

pass427

I've had a few cars which I've liked and sometimes love but this Tl is my all time favorite absolutely love it and just a heads up the o4 manual is the fastest and easier to make big power due to aggressive timing map ,if a standalone unit comes along which enables timing advance then all would be equal but due to the ability of only timing read with fic power will vary and psi level ,8-9 psi is ball park for around 370-380 if it's not an 04 manual ........................ Next I'll be introducing a return fuel setup kit with all necessary hardware a set of pistons and rods and more psi to a tune of 550 whp .....

REDLINERAV

Damn! Your getting it done to your car now? if so, when you get the car back, I wanna drive it

YeuEmMaiMai

I would love to supercharge or turbo my CL but I am pretty sure my tramsission would piss it's pants lol

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I finally found the time to install my new Costco battery and the car is running much better. I'm thinking the car was diverting power away from the ignition to charge the battery. It seems to spool better and feels like the car is more willing to go into boost.

As far as the better internals, you know I'm down Rodney. I looked into Some better pistons and rods, about $400 per cylinder. Rods and pistons together.

I hate cars

You should be able to get a nice set of forged pistons for $600 and rods for $300. I wouldn't buy a pre-made set for the J32 because it will cost more just because it's for an import. If you try any of the major companies like SRP which is a cheaper division of JE and tell them the specs you need you can get them much cheaper. Same with the rods. Tell them what you need and you save a ton of money.

I would shoot for 9:1, run 15psi on pump gas and make over 500whp.

pass427

Typo in my last post (due to the ability of only timing RETARD with aem fic...

pass427

Look out for our fuel return line kit which should be available in 2-3 weeks as this will be incorporated with higher horsepower tunes..

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

^cant wait to see it

libert69

iTrader: (7)

All this talk of upgrading the internals makes me sad when I know the weak link is the auto trans lol

IHC, are you still working on a way to increase line pressure?

bent09

iTrader: (1)

Did you pull the sc or find a way to shimmey it out?

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I'm running the turbo now, and I relocated the battery to the trunk.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

Just installed the zex hyperformance plugs. Im still feeling the car bog around 3k rpms under slight throttle. Definitely a fuel issue at this point.

On the other hand, I have not had any more misfires

Inaccurate

Good to hear that the zex hyperformance plugs are working good. You was having a misfire with the oem plugs? Were the oem plugs fouled (completely black on the porcelain nose) when you removed them?

Silva-type-s

iTrader: (3)

Waltah

iTrader: (3)

no way you're going to get 500whp without lower compression pistons which leads to a complete teardown and rebuild anyways. cant wait to see it though. im going to throw out a guess.....360whp

Silva-type-s

iTrader: (3)

he already made 479 on his 04...... if you read his post he said "Next I'll be introducing a return fuel setup kit with all necessary hardware a set of pistons and rods and more psi to a tune of 550 whp ....."

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Damn Rodney. You're going to run me to the poor house!!!!

Majofo

I hate cars

He can definately do it on stock pistons but at the required boost level it will be a C16+meth tune. The higher compression just raises the octane requirement. However, lower compression and stronger forged pistons are highly recommended.

And as others have pointed out, he's just about at 500whp. Keep in mind, he's dynoing what a C6 Z06 dynos. This is a solid 540hp at the crank.

BostonSilverTypeS

someone has got to do some reading...where have you been!!!

libert69

iTrader: (7)

I was using the ngk ngk bkr8eix gapped to .020 since the turbo install. I had 2 seperate misfires on all cylinders with the ngk plugs. The zex plugs have only been in the car for one day but so far so good.
The ngk plugs are only black around the first 3-4 threads. Ill take a few pics later tonight. Otherwise they look good

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

Pauls 3.6 build and TURBO/ M90 SC =

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I might be totally off here, but are the ngk's a lot longer than the zex's or stock? I wouldn't think there should be any burnt or unburnt fuel on the plugs threads.

Inaccurate

We need pics of the plugs. I have not heard of reading plugs by how much black (soot) is on the threads. I look for the soot line on the porcelain.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

Got another cel for the 2nd time lol.

p0138
O2 Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank1, Sensor2)

The Heated Oxygen Sensor (2) located rear of catalytic converter produces an output signal relative to oxygen storage capacity of catalytic converter. Ho2S 2 signal is less active than signal produced by front oxygen sensor. This code sets when HO2 Sensor voltage is greater than 999 mV for more than 2 minutes (time depends on model. Could be as high as 4 minutes)

I replaced this o2 sensor about 7 months ago when I kept getting a p0420 cel. "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)"

Any ideas?

libert69

iTrader: (7)

KN, when I compared the ngk and zex plugs I noticed that the ngk's were about 1/4" longer then the zex.

Heres a pic of the ngk plugs. Yea its big lol. Click the pics to zoom or save them and super zoom

direct links
http://a.imageshack.us/img820/2788/cimg0989e.jpg
http://a.imageshack.us/img819/746/cimg0999z.jpg
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/4424/cimg1003g.jpg
http://a.imageshack.us/img717/2585/cimg1006a.jpg
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/4332/cimg1007.jpg

Inaccurate

To me, the plugs look great as for overall condition from a distance.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Back in the days when I was wrenching on 2 stroke motorcycles, we always jetted based on the color of the porcelain.

We also made sure that the plug did not extend into the combustion chamber.

Your plugs don't look fouled.

pass427

I can see you haven't read a lot of pages in the thread , but never say never and remember everything gets easy as you work with it everyday u get to know do and donts,this dyno graph is for 2004 Acura tl base 6spd stock internals on 11.5 psi , and it was done on pump gas a very refined tune somewhere in the time of 2hrs or so even thou it was for sole purpose this tune we drove the car to and from the event ,and remember there's things to aid in a tune like this on the edge and way too much to be considered daily driven reliable , but it Can be done...to run 500+ which hast been reached yet a piston and rod upgrade will do the trick if by chance there's a way to get 8500k revs then valvetrain upgrade would make sense..

pass427

http://i519.photobucket.com/albums/u...8/4efc6742.jpg

libert69

iTrader: (7)

^Why does the torque start to fall after 4700rpms?

pass427

^^^^^^Libert that's totally normal , as the torque is used to get vehicle moving and as rpm rises torque falls off as horse power rises I'll try to post an article on dyno graph how to read it and use it as there's vital info on them as u get to understand it I'm sure this will be one topic we can address also ,so people understand why there looking at .

I hate cars

Many times with a turbo your torque peak is going to be at whatever rpm the turbo will hit full boost and it will do a slow fall from there. Not always but most of the time especially with a responsive turbo that spools low in the rpm range. You can see that hp continues to climb since it's torque over time so it's still good.

The other question is if vtec is working but I assume so.