Turbo Kit for Acura TL '04-'08
04-02-2010, 12:09 PM
#3242
Team Owner
^^ this is true....I am highly considering this mod, but want to wait till I'm out of warranty or if I magically come across a lump sum of money...lol but have my eyes glued to this thread for info on how the turbo's are going in the installed TL's......Also to all of our knowledge there isn't a Auto TL with this turbo set-up correct?
Several of us have been testing Redline and Amsoil's versions of the type-F non friction modified fluids for any drivability issues. So far, nothing but positive results. It looks like this is going to be a minimum requirement to help the auto trans live with the turbo. From Inaccurate's research it will give up to a 50% increase in dynamic and 100% increase in static holding capacity of the clutches.
If that is not enough, it will be time to look into raising line pressure.
I'm also very curious to see how the turbo system is going to react to the closing of the throttle between shifts that's programmed into the TL. It's possible in the auto version even with your foot to the floor you're going to hear the BOV chirp everytime it shifts gears.
04-05-2010, 08:37 PM
#3244
Remainder of the parts due tomorrow.
IM 85a's installed.
Battery relocation finished.
Test start, vibration for sure but I think it'll be ok.
Front end removed
Up on jack stands.
Gauge, boost control and Redline Oil on order.
Reading up on what fuse to pull to depressurize the fuel system and ready to dive in.
Still need to get tranny fluid and meth injection.
IM 85a's installed.
Battery relocation finished.
Test start, vibration for sure but I think it'll be ok.
Front end removed
Up on jack stands.
Gauge, boost control and Redline Oil on order.
Reading up on what fuse to pull to depressurize the fuel system and ready to dive in.
Still need to get tranny fluid and meth injection.
04-05-2010, 09:36 PM
#3245
Burning Brakes
Not yet but there will be as Inaccurate said.
Several of us have been testing Redline and Amsoil's versions of the type-F non friction modified fluids for any drivability issues. So far, nothing but positive results. It looks like this is going to be a minimum requirement to help the auto trans live with the turbo. From Inaccurate's research it will give up to a 50% increase in dynamic and 100% increase in static holding capacity of the clutches.
If that is not enough, it will be time to look into raising line pressure.
I'm also very curious to see how the turbo system is going to react to the closing of the throttle between shifts that's programmed into the TL. It's possible in the auto version even with your foot to the floor you're going to hear the BOV chirp everytime it shifts gears.
Several of us have been testing Redline and Amsoil's versions of the type-F non friction modified fluids for any drivability issues. So far, nothing but positive results. It looks like this is going to be a minimum requirement to help the auto trans live with the turbo. From Inaccurate's research it will give up to a 50% increase in dynamic and 100% increase in static holding capacity of the clutches.
If that is not enough, it will be time to look into raising line pressure.
I'm also very curious to see how the turbo system is going to react to the closing of the throttle between shifts that's programmed into the TL. It's possible in the auto version even with your foot to the floor you're going to hear the BOV chirp everytime it shifts gears.
yeah I been reading that thread as well and I will be doing that Tranny fluid change very shortly hopefully before summer comes around
04-05-2010, 10:27 PM
#3246
Remainder of the parts due tomorrow.
IM 85a's installed.
Battery relocation finished.
Test start, vibration for sure but I think it'll be ok.
Front end removed
Up on jack stands.
Gauge, boost control and Redline Oil on order.
Reading up on what fuse to pull to depressurize the fuel system and ready to dive in.
Still need to get tranny fluid and meth injection.
IM 85a's installed.
Battery relocation finished.
Test start, vibration for sure but I think it'll be ok.
Front end removed
Up on jack stands.
Gauge, boost control and Redline Oil on order.
Reading up on what fuse to pull to depressurize the fuel system and ready to dive in.
Still need to get tranny fluid and meth injection.
04-06-2010, 12:02 AM
#3247
Suzuka Master
Think well get to see any 0 -80 mph videos anytime soon?
04-06-2010, 07:24 AM
#3250
Safety Car
For anyone wishing to read-up on water/meth injection as used in a turbo application, I highly recommend the TurboBuick forum. Of all the forums out there, the TurboBuick forum seems to be the most knowledge in the topic of turbos and water/meth injection.
You will need to create an account to be able to do searches. Easy to register and I highly recommend registering to be able to do searches.
IHC - What is you screen name on TurboBuick?
TurboBuick.Com - Alcohol, Nitrous and Propane Tech Subforum (click here)
By the way, here is a list of some of the major players in water/meth injection. Be sure to stay away from any pumps that control injection pressure by mechanically switching the pump on/off. Currently, there is a trend in this industry to get away from switching the pump to control pressure.
AEM Water/Methanol Injection Kits (click here)
Alcohol Injections Systems (click here)
Aquamist (click here)
Coolingmist (click here)
DevilsOwn (click here)
Alkycontrol (click here)
Michael Plummer Performance (click here)
Snow Performance (click here)
You will need to create an account to be able to do searches. Easy to register and I highly recommend registering to be able to do searches.
IHC - What is you screen name on TurboBuick?
TurboBuick.Com - Alcohol, Nitrous and Propane Tech Subforum (click here)
By the way, here is a list of some of the major players in water/meth injection. Be sure to stay away from any pumps that control injection pressure by mechanically switching the pump on/off. Currently, there is a trend in this industry to get away from switching the pump to control pressure.
AEM Water/Methanol Injection Kits (click here)
Alcohol Injections Systems (click here)
Aquamist (click here)
Coolingmist (click here)
DevilsOwn (click here)
Alkycontrol (click here)
Michael Plummer Performance (click here)
Snow Performance (click here)
04-06-2010, 11:48 AM
#3252
Have you guys received all your parts and the updated install manual. I have a list of parts I need from Rodney as well as the install manual. Mine was missng all of the diagrams.
I am going with Alkycontrol as well mostly so I can run straight meth.
I am going with Alkycontrol as well mostly so I can run straight meth.
04-06-2010, 11:58 AM
#3253
I am waiting for the FedEx driver to arrive today. I am hoping everything is in this shipment.
Julio @ alky hasn't done a TL yet so I'm going to send him images of what's left for space when I am done.
04-06-2010, 12:10 PM
#3254
Burning Brakes
Hi speed I believe all your waiting on is the 4 bolts which is shipped or been shipped to you already or if I'm wrong let me know .
04-06-2010, 12:26 PM
#3255
Safety Car
Of all of the manufactures of water/meth kits that I have seen, do state that straight 100% methanol will not harm the components.
There are disclaimers on many of the manufacturer's websites to discourage the use of straight 100% methanol for legal reasons. The 50/50 mixture is not a flammable liquid. Whereas, straight 100% methanol is very much flammable and a health risk (toxic). So for legality, the manufacturer must state that the kit is intended for 50/50.
Also as a side note. The water/meth mixture is more corrosive to metal than just straight 100% methanol.
04-06-2010, 12:28 PM
#3256
KN, my copy of the install manual was missing the drawings or diagrams to show routing of the intercooler piping and everything else. The manual would say see diagram and nothing would be there, all the pics were great, very helpful and clear.
Last edited by Hi speed; 04-06-2010 at 12:32 PM.
04-08-2010, 12:02 AM
#3259
^which plugs are you using for the s/c?
I bought NGK plugs 2668 for the turbo. They are 2 steps colder then stock.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NGK-2668/
What is rodney running?
I bought NGK plugs 2668 for the turbo. They are 2 steps colder then stock.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NGK-2668/
What is rodney running?
04-08-2010, 12:10 AM
#3260
^which plugs are you using for the s/c?
I bought NGK plugs 2668 for the turbo. They are 2 steps colder then stock.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NGK-2668/
What is rodney running?
I bought NGK plugs 2668 for the turbo. They are 2 steps colder then stock.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NGK-2668/
What is rodney running?
I am still running the plugs that came with the blower since they have worked great. I will look into the summit plugs, thanks for the link.
I am not sure what Rodney is running on his car, but 2-3 steps colder sounds about right.
04-08-2010, 08:08 AM
#3263
Safety Car
The oem plug is very hot with a gap that is too wide and the center electrode is too thin. Great for emissions and not having to change it for over a 100,000 miles. Terrible design for preventing pre-ignition in a high performance application.
Heat range does not tell the whole story either. Heat range just classifies a plug for what temperature the plug runs at, the plug as a whole. To really pick a plug that will resist pre-ignition, one needs to consider other design aspects.
For example, that small diameter tip (center electrode) in the oem plug is just begging to become a glow-plug. Same applies to the ground strap design. You want a ground strap that is as short as possible. If the ground strap is long, it is hanging out there in the flame front and the heat has a long distance to travel to dissipate. Again, the plug is just begging to become a glow-plug.
A person will also want a plug with a smaller gap, such as maybe in the 0.032 - 0.036 range. With any typical oem ignition, a large gap becomes very difficult for the spark to jump across when the cylinder pressure is very high (s/c, turbo, nitrous). Big gaps are great for emission control, but bad for high performance engines (misfires).
As a side note, it is highly recommended that a resistor type plug be used. A non-resistor plug has a high probability of causing havoc with our ECU.
Now to look at plug options. Many Honda tuners use and trust the NGK BKR8EIX.
Another option is the NGK BKR7E.
Other than those, there are no other plugs that are commonly recommended for the Honda.
In my opinion, my above recommendations are unacceptable from a design perspective. The BKR8EIX, although being two steps colder, still has a thin center electrode and a ground strap that is too long and too protruded. To me, the BKR8EIX does not meet the requirement of a racing plug for a boosted engine. It might be fine for a n/a engine, but not boosted.
The NGK BKR7E. is a "V-Power" style plug. It has a normal center electrode of normal diameter. Much better. However, it still has a ground strap that is too long and too protruded.
If it was me, I would get the Zex Nitrous Spark Plugs (click here). These meet the full requirements of a racing plug for a boosted engine. Plus, they are easily purchased from Summit or Jegs.
Heat range does not tell the whole story either. Heat range just classifies a plug for what temperature the plug runs at, the plug as a whole. To really pick a plug that will resist pre-ignition, one needs to consider other design aspects.
For example, that small diameter tip (center electrode) in the oem plug is just begging to become a glow-plug. Same applies to the ground strap design. You want a ground strap that is as short as possible. If the ground strap is long, it is hanging out there in the flame front and the heat has a long distance to travel to dissipate. Again, the plug is just begging to become a glow-plug.
A person will also want a plug with a smaller gap, such as maybe in the 0.032 - 0.036 range. With any typical oem ignition, a large gap becomes very difficult for the spark to jump across when the cylinder pressure is very high (s/c, turbo, nitrous). Big gaps are great for emission control, but bad for high performance engines (misfires).
As a side note, it is highly recommended that a resistor type plug be used. A non-resistor plug has a high probability of causing havoc with our ECU.
Now to look at plug options. Many Honda tuners use and trust the NGK BKR8EIX.
Another option is the NGK BKR7E.
Other than those, there are no other plugs that are commonly recommended for the Honda.
In my opinion, my above recommendations are unacceptable from a design perspective. The BKR8EIX, although being two steps colder, still has a thin center electrode and a ground strap that is too long and too protruded. To me, the BKR8EIX does not meet the requirement of a racing plug for a boosted engine. It might be fine for a n/a engine, but not boosted.
The NGK BKR7E. is a "V-Power" style plug. It has a normal center electrode of normal diameter. Much better. However, it still has a ground strap that is too long and too protruded.
If it was me, I would get the Zex Nitrous Spark Plugs (click here). These meet the full requirements of a racing plug for a boosted engine. Plus, they are easily purchased from Summit or Jegs.
04-08-2010, 08:24 AM
#3264
Team Owner
The oem plug is very hot with a gap that is too wide and the center electrode is too thin. Great for emissions and not having to change it for over a 100,000 miles. Terrible design for preventing pre-ignition in a high performance application.
Heat range does not tell the whole story either. Heat range just classifies a plug for what temperature the plug runs at, the plug as a whole. To really pick a plug that will resist pre-ignition, one needs to consider other design aspects.
For example, that small diameter tip (center electrode) in the oem plug is just begging to become a glow-plug. Same applies to the ground strap design. You want a ground strap that is as short as possible. If the ground strap is long, it is hanging out there in the flame front and the heat has a long distance to travel to dissipate. Again, the plug is just begging to become a glow-plug.
A person will also want a plug with a smaller gap, such as maybe in the 0.032 - 0.036 range. With any typical oem ignition, a large gap becomes very difficult for the spark to jump across when the cylinder pressure is very high (s/c, turbo, nitrous). Big gaps are great for emission control, but bad for high performance engines (misfires).
As a side note, it is highly recommended that a resistor type plug be used. A non-resistor plug has a high probability of causing havoc with our ECU.
Now to look at plug options. Many Honda tuners use and trust the NGK BKR8EIX.
Another option is the NGK BKR7E.
Other than those, there are no other plugs that are commonly recommended for the Honda.
In my opinion, my above recommendations are unacceptable from a design perspective. The BKR8EIX, although being two steps colder, still has a thin center electrode and a ground strap that is too long and too protruded. To me, the BKR8EIX does not meet the requirement of a racing plug for a boosted engine. It might be fine for a n/a engine, but not boosted.
The NGK BKR7E. is a "V-Power" style plug. It has a normal center electrode of normal diameter. Much better. However, it still has a ground strap that is too long and too protruded.
If it was me, I would get the Zex Nitrous Spark Plugs (click here). These meet the full requirements of a racing plug for a boosted engine. Plus, they are easily purchased from Summit or Jegs.
Heat range does not tell the whole story either. Heat range just classifies a plug for what temperature the plug runs at, the plug as a whole. To really pick a plug that will resist pre-ignition, one needs to consider other design aspects.
For example, that small diameter tip (center electrode) in the oem plug is just begging to become a glow-plug. Same applies to the ground strap design. You want a ground strap that is as short as possible. If the ground strap is long, it is hanging out there in the flame front and the heat has a long distance to travel to dissipate. Again, the plug is just begging to become a glow-plug.
A person will also want a plug with a smaller gap, such as maybe in the 0.032 - 0.036 range. With any typical oem ignition, a large gap becomes very difficult for the spark to jump across when the cylinder pressure is very high (s/c, turbo, nitrous). Big gaps are great for emission control, but bad for high performance engines (misfires).
As a side note, it is highly recommended that a resistor type plug be used. A non-resistor plug has a high probability of causing havoc with our ECU.
Now to look at plug options. Many Honda tuners use and trust the NGK BKR8EIX.
Another option is the NGK BKR7E.
Other than those, there are no other plugs that are commonly recommended for the Honda.
In my opinion, my above recommendations are unacceptable from a design perspective. The BKR8EIX, although being two steps colder, still has a thin center electrode and a ground strap that is too long and too protruded. To me, the BKR8EIX does not meet the requirement of a racing plug for a boosted engine. It might be fine for a n/a engine, but not boosted.
The NGK BKR7E. is a "V-Power" style plug. It has a normal center electrode of normal diameter. Much better. However, it still has a ground strap that is too long and too protruded.
If it was me, I would get the Zex Nitrous Spark Plugs (click here). These meet the full requirements of a racing plug for a boosted engine. Plus, they are easily purchased from Summit or Jegs.
For those not sure of a 3 range colder plug, run it for a few thousand miles and pull it. If it's not fouling, you're not hurting anything. With my GN, if I ran it easy for a few days in a row without boost it would start fouling but all it took was one WOT run and it ran great. I'm sure this is not a problem for most of us lol.
04-08-2010, 09:29 AM
#3266
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Got 6 NGK BKR7E spark plugs for sale. PM me.
The oem plug is very hot with a gap that is too wide and the center electrode is too thin. Great for emissions and not having to change it for over a 100,000 miles. Terrible design for preventing pre-ignition in a high performance application.
Heat range does not tell the whole story either. Heat range just classifies a plug for what temperature the plug runs at, the plug as a whole. To really pick a plug that will resist pre-ignition, one needs to consider other design aspects.
For example, that small diameter tip (center electrode) in the oem plug is just begging to become a glow-plug. Same applies to the ground strap design. You want a ground strap that is as short as possible. If the ground strap is long, it is hanging out there in the flame front and the heat has a long distance to travel to dissipate. Again, the plug is just begging to become a glow-plug.
A person will also want a plug with a smaller gap, such as maybe in the 0.032 - 0.036 range. With any typical oem ignition, a large gap becomes very difficult for the spark to jump across when the cylinder pressure is very high (s/c, turbo, nitrous). Big gaps are great for emission control, but bad for high performance engines (misfires).
As a side note, it is highly recommended that a resistor type plug be used. A non-resistor plug has a high probability of causing havoc with our ECU.
Now to look at plug options. Many Honda tuners use and trust the NGK BKR8EIX.
Another option is the NGK BKR7E.
Other than those, there are no other plugs that are commonly recommended for the Honda.
In my opinion, my above recommendations are unacceptable from a design perspective. The BKR8EIX, although being two steps colder, still has a thin center electrode and a ground strap that is too long and too protruded. To me, the BKR8EIX does not meet the requirement of a racing plug for a boosted engine. It might be fine for a n/a engine, but not boosted.
The NGK BKR7E. is a "V-Power" style plug. It has a normal center electrode of normal diameter. Much better. However, it still has a ground strap that is too long and too protruded.
If it was me, I would get the Zex Nitrous Spark Plugs (click here). These meet the full requirements of a racing plug for a boosted engine. Plus, they are easily purchased from Summit or Jegs.
Heat range does not tell the whole story either. Heat range just classifies a plug for what temperature the plug runs at, the plug as a whole. To really pick a plug that will resist pre-ignition, one needs to consider other design aspects.
For example, that small diameter tip (center electrode) in the oem plug is just begging to become a glow-plug. Same applies to the ground strap design. You want a ground strap that is as short as possible. If the ground strap is long, it is hanging out there in the flame front and the heat has a long distance to travel to dissipate. Again, the plug is just begging to become a glow-plug.
A person will also want a plug with a smaller gap, such as maybe in the 0.032 - 0.036 range. With any typical oem ignition, a large gap becomes very difficult for the spark to jump across when the cylinder pressure is very high (s/c, turbo, nitrous). Big gaps are great for emission control, but bad for high performance engines (misfires).
As a side note, it is highly recommended that a resistor type plug be used. A non-resistor plug has a high probability of causing havoc with our ECU.
Now to look at plug options. Many Honda tuners use and trust the NGK BKR8EIX.
Another option is the NGK BKR7E.
Other than those, there are no other plugs that are commonly recommended for the Honda.
In my opinion, my above recommendations are unacceptable from a design perspective. The BKR8EIX, although being two steps colder, still has a thin center electrode and a ground strap that is too long and too protruded. To me, the BKR8EIX does not meet the requirement of a racing plug for a boosted engine. It might be fine for a n/a engine, but not boosted.
The NGK BKR7E. is a "V-Power" style plug. It has a normal center electrode of normal diameter. Much better. However, it still has a ground strap that is too long and too protruded.
If it was me, I would get the Zex Nitrous Spark Plugs (click here). These meet the full requirements of a racing plug for a boosted engine. Plus, they are easily purchased from Summit or Jegs.
04-08-2010, 10:38 AM
#3267
takin care of Business in
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WOW this sure is killer good info !!!
How will this regard to a NA engine !!! Which plug is more suitable ??
1>NGK BKR8EIX.
2>NGK BKR7E
3>NGK IZFR6K11 - Laser Iridium
How will this regard to a NA engine !!! Which plug is more suitable ??
1>NGK BKR8EIX.
2>NGK BKR7E
3>NGK IZFR6K11 - Laser Iridium
04-08-2010, 10:40 AM
#3268
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
If you're NA stay with the laser iridium 6.
Last edited by Majofo; 04-08-2010 at 10:44 AM.
04-08-2010, 03:45 PM
#3269
takin care of Business in
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i want better plugs LOL !!! laser iridium it is 
04-10-2010, 08:16 AM
#3272
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
04-10-2010, 08:24 AM
#3273
ZEX plugs ordered. Hopefully I'll be able to start in on mine this week. I've already got the battery in the trunk, front bumper off and up on jack stands.
Working on putting the A/F and boost controller in the pods that are going on the pillar as Kennedy suggested.
I'm going to help J&R with the install document so I'll be taking pictures as I go along.
Working on putting the A/F and boost controller in the pods that are going on the pillar as Kennedy suggested.
I'm going to help J&R with the install document so I'll be taking pictures as I go along.
04-10-2010, 08:36 AM
#3274
Team Owner
The thin wire electrode iridiums are a very good plug. The less plug you have shielding the spark, the better. To a car that's hard on plugs, the thin wire comes secondary.
04-10-2010, 10:49 AM
#3276
Also the iridium material the anode is made from is MUCH harder and holds up MUCH better to higher cylinder temps than platnum, it is also much more electrically stable at higher temps.
04-10-2010, 11:04 AM
#3277
So far, this is what I've bought:
Optima Battery, Billet Holder, 0GA Stringer wire, Stringer ANL Fuse Holder and a pair of audio battery terminals.
Motor mounts
Redline Oil
Zex Plugs
AEM UEGO A/F and Tru-Boost Gauges
VDO Gauge Pods
Need a knock monitor.
Need some sort of injection for octane boost, probably going to go with Alkycontrol.
Possibly an oil cooler
Modifications to the bumper to help with airflow.
Going to have to experiment with Air Filters. J&R had surging problems so they are not including it. The roads around here are dusty so I definitely want to find a solution for that.
Also likely going to go with a full 3" exhaust. I want to get the turbo in first to see what the noise level is like without anything attached and will decide on the design from there.
Optima Battery, Billet Holder, 0GA Stringer wire, Stringer ANL Fuse Holder and a pair of audio battery terminals.
Motor mounts
Redline Oil
Zex Plugs
AEM UEGO A/F and Tru-Boost Gauges
VDO Gauge Pods
Need a knock monitor.
Need some sort of injection for octane boost, probably going to go with Alkycontrol.
Possibly an oil cooler
Modifications to the bumper to help with airflow.
Going to have to experiment with Air Filters. J&R had surging problems so they are not including it. The roads around here are dusty so I definitely want to find a solution for that.
Also likely going to go with a full 3" exhaust. I want to get the turbo in first to see what the noise level is like without anything attached and will decide on the design from there.
04-14-2010, 03:56 AM
#3278
So far, this is what I've bought:
Optima Battery, Billet Holder, 0GA Stringer wire, Stringer ANL Fuse Holder and a pair of audio battery terminals.
Motor mounts
Redline Oil
Zex Plugs
AEM UEGO A/F and Tru-Boost Gauges
VDO Gauge Pods
Need a knock monitor.
Need some sort of injection for octane boost, probably going to go with Alkycontrol.
Possibly an oil cooler
Modifications to the bumper to help with airflow.
Going to have to experiment with Air Filters. J&R had surging problems so they are not including it. The roads around here are dusty so I definitely want to find a solution for that.
Also likely going to go with a full 3" exhaust. I want to get the turbo in first to see what the noise level is like without anything attached and will decide on the design from there.
Optima Battery, Billet Holder, 0GA Stringer wire, Stringer ANL Fuse Holder and a pair of audio battery terminals.
Motor mounts
Redline Oil
Zex Plugs
AEM UEGO A/F and Tru-Boost Gauges
VDO Gauge Pods
Need a knock monitor.
Need some sort of injection for octane boost, probably going to go with Alkycontrol.
Possibly an oil cooler
Modifications to the bumper to help with airflow.
Going to have to experiment with Air Filters. J&R had surging problems so they are not including it. The roads around here are dusty so I definitely want to find a solution for that.
Also likely going to go with a full 3" exhaust. I want to get the turbo in first to see what the noise level is like without anything attached and will decide on the design from there.
What kinda optima did you buy... I need one too.. so..
