The two steps colder NGK spark plugs are to further prevent early detonation, not power gains.

 

djbonsu so you perfectly misread my post !!!

I dont want to gain 5WHP and 2WTQ....what i meant is since the block will be running cooler it might make the car a little more nimble or agile !!!

Now again i mentioned I will be running NA engine so I dont know how much cooler my engine would run as compared to a turbo/supercharged engine.....so will these new plugs make a difference in my case ???

 

CLEARLY i did my apologies but ill say that you will only benefit from eliminating any pingin or knockin that may occur. every now and then, ill get some pinging but im thinking that associated with the high compression ratio.

how this relates to throttle response? that i dont know. logically, i would say you might gain a bit of throttle response but like i said, im not sure

 

just called Advanced Auto and out of the 12+ stores in the area only 1 has 8 in stock and they are on sale 5.99 per. After work i have to hurry to get there

 

Not if I get there first...lol! I'll buy them all for GP!

 

Ok I have decided to run with the stock ACM and no Meth kit for now. I have a member that is willing to sell me his AEM F/ic with the wires from Paul and its too cold to get the meth kit for now. I will have everything else and I dont want to hold back my install date of next saturday. Plus I gave to get the UEGO AFR gauge

 

T0talacura and I were chillin in my gayrage :gheylaugh: yesterday going over the install instructions for the blower for next week and it seems i have a part that was given to me prior to the pervious owners uninstall.

At first he gave me the FPR crusher tool and this long metal rod and said that I would need it for being a 6mt..which is all fine but looking thru the install guide and all the parts layed out in the CT pic it was different then what i rod that is set different for a 5At or 6MT and its not what im holding.

I did verify and i DO have that in my kit but Someone plz tell me what this is

^ Beer is for size reference and...o a refresing beverage

 

Isn't that the rod that holds the sc up. It goes on bottom end of s/c on the right side. Placement is the only difference between 6sp and 5at.

Since your running acm, willing to let me take that fic? I still need one, btw I blew my engine from hydro lock. It was caused by having a crack in my throttle body and sucked engine coolant into engine. It ripped rods out and went crazy on my block and oil pan. Holes all over the place. I was very lucky to have a tb that was cracked, and be one in a million if that. .

 

WTF sorry to hear that. Would have TB coolant bypass mod prevented this?

As far as the ACM goes im only running that temporarily because the member is not ready to sell yet, but I do plan on running F/IC

 

Well it was cracked anyway so trouble was comming. Paul did say that he does not hook up the coolant lines.

 

Just purchased the AEM UEGO A/F gauge on Ebizze for 179.95 shipped I cant justify spending another 180 or so on a boost gauge but I know its a must in the future

 

That is NOT the SC tranny mount.

It's the CAI support brace. It attaches to the black plastic resonator box and runs to the side body panel...
Is it on?

What are you guys doing tomm? Run up to stafford and look my install over.

 

Holy shit... a cracked throttle body that resulted in a hydrolocked motor! Wow.
P2R spacer and CAI? Too tight?
That's the only thing in the world I can think of that would cause that to happen... undue stress on the TB due to all those spacers and things not lining up. If the stress is enough to shear the mount of the AEM intake tube, I could see how it would crack a mount.
Yikes dude. You should post a public service announcement.

YES, the throttle body bypass would have prevent the hydrolock, but likely not the crack. I did not hook up the coolant lines either...

RJ, who is doing your tune? I've run the ACM for two years because I haven't found anyone I feel confident in to set up the F/IC. Buying the F/IC and getting the cable from Paul is the easy part...

I meant my post above, if you guys wanna stop by Sunday, cmon up. I can walk you through the install process. You can do 2/3 of it right now.
Battery mounts and wiring, alternator mount, radiator hoses... all that can be done and driven around safely.
I'll give ya test ride so you can get a feel for what you're about to have...

 

Thanks Kennedy for identifing that part put i couldnt find it on any install diagram. No I havent done any pre-install however you did bring up a good point. I will prob do some of that on Tuesday because im waiting on the OP to send me a check to cover half of a new battery cuz the one i got was dead.

Im also planning to get my Uego A/F gauge installed and then do a before dyno of the car before the blower is installed.

I absolutly appreciate the invite up there for a walk over of the install but im working this weekend and thats why im setting the install for next weekend at my house. I was actually hoping that you would come down here to va beach and help out with the install hahah

As far as the F/IC i swear and i will have to find this but someone told me that they would send me their tune as a baseline or something but I dont remember where i saw that.

I have some brand new V2's coming this week and i wanted to slap those on before the SC but it looks like that wont happen due to time restraints so they will have to go in a week after. I really hope they dont kill my Procats because i do intend to selling those to pay for either the Meth or F/IC.

 

Wish I could help... I got kids and stuff. I barely have time to work on my own car.

I'd hold off on the blower until the PCD's are in you can do the prep work and save your install shop time... If not, ya gotta pull the damn thing off again to install the front PCD. If you're doing motor mounts (which you should), do those too for the same reason.

Jump in there and do the clutch slave mod while you're at it...

Let me know when you're up north, we can meet up some evening.

 

Kennedy, just FYI, you can replace the pcd's without the removal of the SC easy. all you have to do is remove the right fan. i did this when i replaced my procats for pcd's. same thing goes for the motor mounts too



ronjon, like i said in a previous post, be sure and have the outlet plumbed for the nozzle and vacuum line BEFORE you install the charger. otherwise, it will need to come back off..

 

Not necessary IMO, you're only boosting 4-5psi so its not even all that helpful. But it is kinda cool to look at

Holy crap . What are you plans for your engine replacement?

 

Yeah im planning on doing the clutch slave mod and np I have an aunt that lives in Herndon and i go up there from time to time

Thanks for the PCD info because that would have ruined my install timeline, even though im tempted to spend all day Saturday to pull out the procats and install the SC on Sunday.

Can you be specific on what your talking about the outlet plumbed? I went back a few of your postes and didnt find what you were talking about. Thnanks

Yeah I know its not but I do like gauges as you can see from my GSR... where ever your at


Speaking of PCDDDDDDDDDDDDD's Lookie what I got today..... I got them basically for FREE cuz a member needed to go back to stock and i gave him my stock cats and I got the NEW V2's cuz he traded in his cracked V1's and Ritchie gave him new V2's

 

nice

 

ill get underneath there and snap a pic for you. ill post it up tomorrow

 

CONGRATS on the CTSC purchase and good luck with the install! i STILL want to do this mod....just need to find some money to buy the kit

are you changing the motor mounts or engine torque damper as well?

 

Thanks I appreciate that.

Thanks yeah I have been holding out on this mod for 2+ years and finally said fuck it and scrapped my pennies together and got a good BM deal. Im gonna wait to on the motor mounts for now hoping they will hang in there a bit more longer and engine damper.... I really feel like I should know what and where that is... plz explain if you want thanks

 

it's that tiny shock mounted behind the engine to prevent the engine from rocking back and forth during acceleration.

 

I installed PCD, J-Pipe, HFC yesterday night.
Ron, I would diff install before you put in the blower this weekend.

I'm sure it can be done post-blower, but i'm telling you it was a PIA yesterday and very time consuming.

 

here is the ETD....i plan on gettin on very soon to get rid of this nasty wheel hop i get sometimes --> https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/xlr8-engine-torque-damper-04-08-tl-manual-764069/

 

this is the one thats been in my car for a couple years now. bolts right in the back of the motor, straight down to the base of the motor mount itself. fits both auto/6mt. my buddy just picked one up last week, they are having a sale right now (125 free sh), but i cant post links to websites here =/

 

^^^ dude if you can please PM me the link

 

If I were you guys I would poly fill you stock mounts. Paul can do that for you, cheap and better than after market. (~80). That damper I was told is not needed, because 6 mt already have one.

 

I supposed this engine mount is stiffer, therefore an "upgrade" of the in place mount. I'm a part whore, so I'll be trying one out on my 6MT.

 

here you go ronjon. the one on the left is the meth nozzle, the other is the vacuum line. this is why i say to plumb it BEFORE the charger install. i put it on the bottom for steathness, but you can put it on top if you want. regardless, the charger will still have to come out to prevent metal shavings from getting into the housing.

 

Ahh yes now i understand. I will def do that when the summer comes around but im gonna hold off on the meth kit for now.


Also Im so pissed at myself for not taking care of this sooner but all the gaskets on the kits are kinda ragged, but maybe a couple can be saved but some are toast.

i have already been in contact with CT-E about this and they said that I can get them locally or at the dealer. Does anybody know part #'s on these or are they just common gaskets that I need many of??

Thanks again guys

 

Just got quoted 145 for the UEGO gauge install. is that fair?

 

Not a big deal at all, I was able to get a few of these the next day from my dealer for my kit. Part # 16176-RCA-A02. Not sure how many you need I just ordered 3.

 

Ths is why this forum is the best calling the stealer now

 

-AEM A/F UEGO gauge installed today
-Tomorrow installing JL 500/1, JL 300/4, and JL W3V2 8inch sub (factory location)
-Saturday install PCD's and RSX-S injectors and start on the SC
-Sunday finish SC
-Monday Drive all fuckin day...

wish me luck

 

good luck bro

one hell of a four day forecast!

 

good luck and your going to LOVE it. The problem arises when you get used to the power and want MORE. This site can make a man go broke, I at first had know that.

 

nice! good luck with everything!

is the JL W3V2 8 inch sub a free air sub or are you puttinin it in a box under the deck as well?

 

Ron, where did you put your gauge?

 

This thread is a mess. Blown engines from a little water from a cracked throttle body and methanol being injected pre-blower.......

I will guarantee the crack in the throttlebody did not cause it to throw the rods. You could stick one of the water hoses straight into the throttlebody and it would not hydrolock the engine. Look at the guys sticking one of the large vacuum lines into the water/seafoam with no problems. It takes a very large quantity of water to actually hydrolock.


Meth being injected pre-blower. Better than nothing, you get the extra octane that the engine desperately needs but you get very, very little cooling effect. It can cause long term issues with some blowers, not sure about the Eaton on the TL.

The real cooling effect comes from the liquid methanol flashing off in the super hot discharge air from the outlet of the blower. Injecting it pre-blower just heats it up along wtih the rest of the air. There are power gains to be had with the meth going post blower but you would need a solenoid to keep it from siphoning out since it will be under vacuum. I know of at least one kit that sells a solenoid for just this issue.