Supercharging the TL
Paul took apart my motor and it had all of my coolant in it. After I explained to him what happened when it blew, and looking at the engine, that was the cause. No one said anything about a little water. I'm talking all of my engine coolant. He said he has never seen it before, and really could not explain why it would be cracked where it was.
- You'll need dynamat. Lots of it.
- You have WAYYY too much power on it. The 8W3V2 can take a beating, but only in a sealed enclosure. I'm pushing it with a $75 JL e1200 and the cone jumps up and down over an inch. The 8W3v2 is not a free air sub.
Without the sealed box to push against, you will overdrive and blow the cone. It wil "POP' when it gets over driven, and 2 many of those will kill the cone driver. It won't POP but once and you'll be reaching back there and cutting the gain back on the amp.
That said, it's still much better than stock... but you just can't push it as hard as you want to.
Looking forward to your sitreps over the weekend.
Former Whyner
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,943
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From: 2up 2 down Boooiiiii
I had it ran on the left side of the steering column and its sticky taped on there because it didnt come with a mounting bracket. Its very low key and it stares right back up at me. Ill post a pic of it later.
Thanks for this info about the injection point and will kepp that in mind. As far as this thread is a mess we have VERY LITTLE turbo vs Supercharger squabble in here and thats good.
Yeah i had a feeling that this would be too much power but I had this amp lying around and knew it would do the trick. I only had to re purchase the 300/4 as thats what i had in there before and i had no complaints.
I came from a 12W7 in a custom box, 1000/1 and a 300/4 and it hit hard and was plenty, but the weight in the trunk was too much for me and i didnt like having 1/3 of my trunk to use, so i went with this setup that way you cant see nothing.
Ok so sitreps...hmmm well the stero install took very long yesterday so that threw out any chance of pre SC work like relocating stuff hoses and battery stuff.
I was set for the PCD install this morning but i DOUBLE PLANNED and forgot i told my cuz i would take her to the auction to find a car, so i missed the hobby shop because its first come foirst serve. So that will be tomorrow and they after that We are gonna jump into the supercharger install.
I hate when i double plan 
This thread is a mess. Blown engines from a little water from a cracked throttle body and methanol being injected pre-blower.......
I will guarantee the crack in the throttlebody did not cause it to throw the rods. You could stick one of the water hoses straight into the throttlebody and it would not hydrolock the engine. Look at the guys sticking one of the large vacuum lines into the water/seafoam with no problems. It takes a very large quantity of water to actually hydrolock.
Meth being injected pre-blower. Better than nothing, you get the extra octane that the engine desperately needs but you get very, very little cooling effect. It can cause long term issues with some blowers, not sure about the Eaton on the TL.
The real cooling effect comes from the liquid methanol flashing off in the super hot discharge air from the outlet of the blower. Injecting it pre-blower just heats it up along wtih the rest of the air. There are power gains to be had with the meth going post blower but you would need a solenoid to keep it from siphoning out since it will be under vacuum. I know of at least one kit that sells a solenoid for just this issue.
I will guarantee the crack in the throttlebody did not cause it to throw the rods. You could stick one of the water hoses straight into the throttlebody and it would not hydrolock the engine. Look at the guys sticking one of the large vacuum lines into the water/seafoam with no problems. It takes a very large quantity of water to actually hydrolock.
Meth being injected pre-blower. Better than nothing, you get the extra octane that the engine desperately needs but you get very, very little cooling effect. It can cause long term issues with some blowers, not sure about the Eaton on the TL.
The real cooling effect comes from the liquid methanol flashing off in the super hot discharge air from the outlet of the blower. Injecting it pre-blower just heats it up along wtih the rest of the air. There are power gains to be had with the meth going post blower but you would need a solenoid to keep it from siphoning out since it will be under vacuum. I know of at least one kit that sells a solenoid for just this issue.
I have an 8w3v2 in the stock hole...
- You'll need dynamat. Lots of it.
- You have WAYYY too much power on it. The 8W3V2 can take a beating, but only in a sealed enclosure. I'm pushing it with a $75 JL e1200 and the cone jumps up and down over an inch. The 8W3v2 is not a free air sub.
Without the sealed box to push against, you will overdrive and blow the cone. It wil "POP' when it gets over driven, and 2 many of those will kill the cone driver. It won't POP but once and you'll be reaching back there and cutting the gain back on the amp.
That said, it's still much better than stock... but you just can't push it as hard as you want to.
Looking forward to your sitreps over the weekend.
- You'll need dynamat. Lots of it.
- You have WAYYY too much power on it. The 8W3V2 can take a beating, but only in a sealed enclosure. I'm pushing it with a $75 JL e1200 and the cone jumps up and down over an inch. The 8W3v2 is not a free air sub.
Without the sealed box to push against, you will overdrive and blow the cone. It wil "POP' when it gets over driven, and 2 many of those will kill the cone driver. It won't POP but once and you'll be reaching back there and cutting the gain back on the amp.
That said, it's still much better than stock... but you just can't push it as hard as you want to.
Looking forward to your sitreps over the weekend.
I came from a 12W7 in a custom box, 1000/1 and a 300/4 and it hit hard and was plenty, but the weight in the trunk was too much for me and i didnt like having 1/3 of my trunk to use, so i went with this setup that way you cant see nothing.
Ok so sitreps...hmmm well the stero install took very long yesterday so that threw out any chance of pre SC work like relocating stuff hoses and battery stuff.
I was set for the PCD install this morning but i DOUBLE PLANNED and forgot i told my cuz i would take her to the auction to find a car, so i missed the hobby shop because its first come foirst serve. So that will be tomorrow and they after that We are gonna jump into the supercharger install.
I hate when i double plan
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
Paul took apart my motor and it had all of my coolant in it. After I explained to him what happened when it blew, and looking at the engine, that was the cause. No one said anything about a little water. I'm talking all of my engine coolant. He said he has never seen it before, and really could not explain why it would be cracked where it was.
You've got a forged steel rod swinging out of control still attached to a forged steel crank spinning at 1,000-7,000rpm in an aluminum block. The block always loses and usually ends up with many holes and usually the water jacket is compromised.
My point was even if you opened the full flow of water to the throttlebody with one of the feeders directly into the intake manifold you would not get enough water to hydrolock the engine. I would bet the crack was a separate issue.
Former Whyner
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 9
From: 2up 2 down Boooiiiii
Todays Sitrep: Started at 830am heading to the hobby shop to meet up with
T0talacuratl to install the V2 PCD's and swap out the Procats. Swap took about 3 hours and was relativley simple and even found a minor exhaust leak and fixed that.
First impression with the V2's were they made the car pretty loud and i could hear the little cling cling hollow sound... or maybe i need my valves adjusted. I think I have a small hint of rasp and might need another resonator but we will see. Not 100% on a huge top end gain but def lost a bit Low-end power.
anyways it was on the way to advanced auto to shell out the $94.00 fucking bucks for a new battery because the previous owners battery was dead and he had agreed to pay for half and send me a check but I havent seen it in the mail nor is he responding to my text messages... :angry: So 94.00 for that and 16.00 for some coolant and i was off to my buddies house because his garage is way bigger than mine.
Draining the coolant...all that good coolant gone
huge gap screaming put a SC in me lol
Bolting the SC from both sides
Smoke break while my buddies are working
More tomorrow....finished up the power steering fitting and im not looking to the fuel pump crush and the wiring but it has to be done tomorrow cuz i have to work on Wednesday lol
T0talacuratl to install the V2 PCD's and swap out the Procats. Swap took about 3 hours and was relativley simple and even found a minor exhaust leak and fixed that.
First impression with the V2's were they made the car pretty loud and i could hear the little cling cling hollow sound... or maybe i need my valves adjusted. I think I have a small hint of rasp and might need another resonator but we will see. Not 100% on a huge top end gain but def lost a bit Low-end power.
anyways it was on the way to advanced auto to shell out the $94.00 fucking bucks for a new battery because the previous owners battery was dead and he had agreed to pay for half and send me a check but I havent seen it in the mail nor is he responding to my text messages... :angry: So 94.00 for that and 16.00 for some coolant and i was off to my buddies house because his garage is way bigger than mine.
Draining the coolant...all that good coolant gone
huge gap screaming put a SC in me lol
Bolting the SC from both sides
Smoke break while my buddies are working
More tomorrow....finished up the power steering fitting and im not looking to the fuel pump crush and the wiring but it has to be done tomorrow cuz i have to work on Wednesday lol
Remember to NOT use one of the wires, which is the knock sensor. You will only plug/play and splice into 2/4 wires. I do not remember what one that is, but Bmeyer helped me out with it. You will throw a cel, and it is not needed.
nice! almost there!! 
to bad you couldnt at least tap the bottom of the outlet for future use of the meth though =/ all you had to do is call AEM to find out the thread size of the meth nozzle and vacuum line, then tap and use some standard brass plugs until you buy and install the kit. it would have saved you ALOT of hard work when it comes time to inject, which should be soon, rather than later.
anyhoo, like AckTL05 said, if your wiring up the ACM to get you by for now, make sure NOT to connect the wire thats supposedly used to filter the signal the knock sensor signal. it was an experiment of comptechs, that didnt work.. GL
to bad you couldnt at least tap the bottom of the outlet for future use of the meth though =/ all you had to do is call AEM to find out the thread size of the meth nozzle and vacuum line, then tap and use some standard brass plugs until you buy and install the kit. it would have saved you ALOT of hard work when it comes time to inject, which should be soon, rather than later.
anyhoo, like AckTL05 said, if your wiring up the ACM to get you by for now, make sure NOT to connect the wire thats supposedly used to filter the signal the knock sensor signal. it was an experiment of comptechs, that didnt work.. GL
nice! almost there!!
to bad you couldnt at least tap the bottom of the outlet for future use of the meth though =/ all you had to do is call AEM to find out the thread size of the meth nozzle and vacuum line, then tap and use some standard brass plugs until you buy and install the kit. it would have saved you ALOT of hard work when it comes time to inject, which should be soon, rather than later.
anyhoo, like AckTL05 said, if your wiring up the ACM to get you by for now, make sure NOT to connect the wire thats supposedly used to filter the signal the knock sensor signal. it was an experiment of comptechs, that didnt work.. GL
to bad you couldnt at least tap the bottom of the outlet for future use of the meth though =/ all you had to do is call AEM to find out the thread size of the meth nozzle and vacuum line, then tap and use some standard brass plugs until you buy and install the kit. it would have saved you ALOT of hard work when it comes time to inject, which should be soon, rather than later.
anyhoo, like AckTL05 said, if your wiring up the ACM to get you by for now, make sure NOT to connect the wire thats supposedly used to filter the signal the knock sensor signal. it was an experiment of comptechs, that didnt work.. GL
I almost pulled the blower and sold it before I read not to hook up knock sensor. The sensor would say the car was knocking all the time and would retard the timing killing power and making the car buck. Connecting the wire back to stock completely fixed everything.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
[quote=Hi speed;11828440] The sensor would say the car was knocking all the time and would retard the timing killing power and making the car buck. quote]
It probably was knocking all the time.
It probably was knocking all the time.
[QUOTE=I hate cars;11828892]It wasn't. The box was just sending crazy signals. The knock sensor is rewired back to stock.
Former Whyner
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 9
From: 2up 2 down Boooiiiii
ok I think we have a problem.... injectors...I had 4 that i got from fleabay that were from a 02 rsx-s and they have a QL20 BAH printed on them and the ones i got from soulja are uk29 aasv printed on them and his looks different on the bottom from mine...are they still the same cuz they didnt seed properly. pic to come
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
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From: Bakersfield
[quote=Hi speed;11829126]I'm sure it was. But I think you would be really surprised if you ever put it on a scanner and moitored knock. I'll guarantee it's knocking anytime it's in boost unless you've added meth.
when i was looking for injectors, a junkyard gave me those exact ones saying they were type-s, but when i i had them flowed at RC, thats when i found out they were the base injectors.
Last edited by 04accordcpe; Mar 15, 2010 at 02:04 PM.
just FYI, if your running the ACM, use the stock injectors, otherrwise your going to run super rich. the ACM wasnt programmed to run that large of an injector size. you only need the type-s if your planning on getting a tune.
EDIT: nm, looking at the pics again, im 110% sure the injector with white band is for the base rsx. measure the end of the injector, looks to be a different size =/
EDIT: nm, looking at the pics again, im 110% sure the injector with white band is for the base rsx. measure the end of the injector, looks to be a different size =/
Last edited by 04accordcpe; Mar 15, 2010 at 02:10 PM.
Former Whyner
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 9
From: 2up 2 down Boooiiiii
just FYI, if your running the ACM, use the stock injectors, otherrwise your going to run super rich. the ACM wasnt programmed to run that large of an injector size. you only need the type-s if your planning on getting a tune.
EDIT: nm, looking at the pics again, im 110% sure the injector with white band is for the base rsx. measure the end of the injector, looks to be a different size =/
EDIT: nm, looking at the pics again, im 110% sure the injector with white band is for the base rsx. measure the end of the injector, looks to be a different size =/
nice! almost there!!
to bad you couldnt at least tap the bottom of the outlet for future use of the meth though =/ all you had to do is call AEM to find out the thread size of the meth nozzle and vacuum line, then tap and use some standard brass plugs until you buy and install the kit. it would have saved you ALOT of hard work when it comes time to inject, which should be soon, rather than later.
anyhoo, like AckTL05 said, if your wiring up the ACM to get you by for now, make sure NOT to connect the wire thats supposedly used to filter the signal the knock sensor signal. it was an experiment of comptechs, that didnt work.. GL
to bad you couldnt at least tap the bottom of the outlet for future use of the meth though =/ all you had to do is call AEM to find out the thread size of the meth nozzle and vacuum line, then tap and use some standard brass plugs until you buy and install the kit. it would have saved you ALOT of hard work when it comes time to inject, which should be soon, rather than later.
anyhoo, like AckTL05 said, if your wiring up the ACM to get you by for now, make sure NOT to connect the wire thats supposedly used to filter the signal the knock sensor signal. it was an experiment of comptechs, that didnt work.. GL
IHC: i am running 50/50 meth...i remembered when i first had the s/c installed, with the acm wired according to the instruction, the car was running very rich and it was surging.
to all the experts: which wire are we talking about? 'b6' or 'd5'? i am running just the stock ecu now without the fic nor the acm...driving around like a granny and keeping an closed eye on the wideband (13.5-15.1, and no wot). so if i put back the acm and not hooking up this knock sensor wire, can this thing run a little bit more 'normal'?
.
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Former Whyner
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 9
From: 2up 2 down Boooiiiii
ok so let me get this straght> the orginal instructions has the black/white wire going to B6 and orange going to D5....so that would leave me with connectinmg 1 wire to the ECM and leaving 3 wires (black/white, orange/white, and white/black) not being used right??
im 99.9% sure the one on the right with the white band near the nozzle is the BASE rsx injector, not the type-s
when i was looking for injectors, a junkyard gave me those exact ones saying they were type-s, but when i i had them flowed at RC, thats when i found out they were the base injectors.
when i was looking for injectors, a junkyard gave me those exact ones saying they were type-s, but when i i had them flowed at RC, thats when i found out they were the base injectors.
My injectors came from a 2005 and 2006 RSX -S and all 6 of mine have the white bases.
I believe the manifold on the base RSX is completely different, and looks different (kind like the TL injector base), thus the injector bases look completely different. I think the one on the left is from a different manufacturer, but is likely a TSX-S.
You may be OK...
My injectors came from a 2005 and 2006 RSX -S and all 6 of mine have the white bases.
I believe the manifold on the base RSX is completely different, and looks different (kind like the TL injector base), thus the injector bases look completely different. I think the one on the left is from a different manufacturer, but is likely a TSX-S.
My injectors came from a 2005 and 2006 RSX -S and all 6 of mine have the white bases.
I believe the manifold on the base RSX is completely different, and looks different (kind like the TL injector base), thus the injector bases look completely different. I think the one on the left is from a different manufacturer, but is likely a TSX-S.
- 02-04 RSX -S injectors flow 310cc and have a PRB in the OEM PN
- 05-06 RSX -S injectors flow 310cc and have a RBB in the OEM PN
Here's a pic from K20forums, dude selling 310cc "PRB" injectors. They have white bottoms.
I fretted over this a lot too.
http://74.125.113.132/search?q=cache...&ct=clnk&gl=us
Former Whyner
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 9
From: 2up 2 down Boooiiiii
Former Whyner
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 9
From: 2up 2 down Boooiiiii
ok disconeccted the ACM and she fired right up. I think my belt is stretched out a bit cuz its starting to slip when i turn the wheel. So what should happen if i take it out for slow run up the street?
You'd be OK if you stay out of it. The SC is in full bypass in lower rpms.
I'd spend the time looking at the ACM figuring out that issue...
Congrats, sounds like you're almost there. Easy no?
You see my post above on the injectors? I think the white base is from an 05-06 and the black base is from an 02-04 S. I hope you didn't swap em yet.
Stock pulley right?
You'd be OK if you stay out of it. The SC is in full bypass in lower rpms.
I'd spend the time looking at the ACM figuring out that issue...
Congrats, sounds like you're almost there. Easy no?
You see my post above on the injectors? I think the white base is from an 05-06 and the black base is from an 02-04 S. I hope you didn't swap em yet.
You'd be OK if you stay out of it. The SC is in full bypass in lower rpms.
I'd spend the time looking at the ACM figuring out that issue...
Congrats, sounds like you're almost there. Easy no?
You see my post above on the injectors? I think the white base is from an 05-06 and the black base is from an 02-04 S. I hope you didn't swap em yet.
at any rate, he has to change them out for the stocks if he's planning to run the ACM for now, otherwise he's going to run super rich with a/f readings ducking below 10:0 at WOT. ive seen this first hand when i was force to run the ACM for a few days with the 310's.
310cc injectors and a tune go hand in hand...
Former Whyner
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 9
From: 2up 2 down Boooiiiii
ok figured out the acm problem. Acm is on now and just took ot for a spin with the loose belt and i cant turn very well. First impression is so so cant feel the power and can barley hear the SC whine. looks like im gonna try and find a new belt..
Gauge is saying 11.6 so thats good
Gauge is saying 11.6 so thats good