NGK two step colder: part # BKR8EIX , stock # 2668
im pretty sure but double check any way.

Also consider the IK22. I have not tried either. are the IK 22 the ones that the s/c already??

Battery relocation should also be considered. If you have to work on/jump/remove the battery, it will just make it that much more difficult. others have stated if you relocate it to the right side of the trunk it will work more with weight ratio and such. Either way im relocating to the trunk but i have the nav on the right.Good luck

 

appreciate the info fellas. thought about relocating to trunk but id rather have it outta site outta mind if ya know what i mean. Guess ill spring for the same battery that cost 94.00

 

once again, i need some advise or input.

I'm ordering the AEM Wideband and have questions on the install.
I assume the best place to weld the 02 sensor bung hole is on the j-pipe somewhere on the collector or past it?

With common sense, on the bottom is a bad idea. (let alone i'm lowered on Tein SS)
I just don't know where to put it and how.

Can anyone shed some advise or experience? Clearance? Thoughts?

 

On the J pipe where it collects into the single pipe, right before it hits the third cat. I would install it on the side, parallel to your car so it does not get ripped out.

 

Yeah, but how far does the bung and sensor stick out? Is there clearance issues?

Also, if looking at the the front of the car (standing in front of the hood) I assume to put it on the right side of j-pipe? as the wire will need to be slipped up?

 

Just talked to a friend that has a S/C Accord, he put his on the top at the end of his RV-6 J-Pipe

 

I have a 3rd cat delete...
I just welded it in there. It would be better 4 inches forward, but way easier to take the 3rd cat delete to welding shop and have them weld it in while I wait...
and I can remove it with ease.

 

I picked up XLR8 HFC, and I think my only option is the J-Pipe

I want to put it on top at the end of the pipe but have no idea what clearance is like under the car. Haven't had a chance to look today.

 

You can likely put it on the HFC, in the inlet tube. Needs to be parallel to the ground, on the side. easy.

 

I think putting the 02 sensor next to the cat wouldn't be a good idea.
The cat probably will be too hot and give me misinformed readings?

 

What style of gauges are we gonna be using? I would like a gauge very similar to to what our cluster looks like with the black face during the way and the blue lights like ours at night.

 

AEM UEGO Wideband.

 

You can pull and drill your jpipe if you want...
or install the bung in necked down area, as close to the mounting flange as possible. On the side.

3rd cat doesn't get that hot relatively, and moving it 2 inches up the exhaust into the jpipe won't make a difference. Don't make it too complicated. The idea is to get a measurement at where both exhaust banks meet.

I'm using an autometer nexus. I have an autometer uego gauge (you need the harness and Bosch A/F sensor) for cheap if ya need it.

 

ok didnt see a boost gauge so what are you gonna use for that?

 

Nexus as well...

 

Hey Kennedy,

Where did you mount your boost gauge?

 

Here is the problem with putting it in the J pipe up top, it only gets one side. Make sure its where the two sides meet collectively. There is no issue, as this is where I put mine. The bung sticks out an inch, if that. You will be fine. Looking at engine like you said, put it on the right side.

 

Wow they have every gauge under the sun but im just not feeling the face design

I was hoping to find these in A/F and a boost w/o a BAR readout but I cant because tghey dont make a PSI gauge.
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The AEM UEGO looks very nice but I cant seem to find a boost gauge for it and im sure they sell it.

I would like to have my gauge setup look like this

 

Souljah, heres a pic i dug up of my stock jpipe and when i had the rv6.


i had the bung locations pretty much in the same spot.

or you can do what Kennedy suggested and install it on the 3rd cat. thats what i did, but when my 3rd procat failed,, i plumbed it into my atlp pipe =/

 

I see.
But the ATLP has a flex pipe there.

 

i think i may be making this a bigger deal than it is

i'll figure something out.
but once again thanks you all for the input and pictures.

 

Little side mount cups, low on the a pillar (egauges.com)...
Here's a quick pic. The A/F will go just above this one.



I've searched high and low and couldn't find an integrated gauge solution that didin't block the cluster or look overdone.

 

^ How is that mounted? Just a screw through the cover?

 

i agree with the blocking of the cluster but the molded gauges are SO CHOICE

 

Yep...

With that long deep windshield, this fits nice... Nothing cluttering up that nice dash or cluster.

 

For the current S/C'ed guys:

When I was getting tuned a couple days ago, my tuner told me that the he was able to make everything nice at open loop, but he everything he set in the close loop was slowly getting overwritten by the stock ecu. So I gave him Paul's contact number and they spoked. That was when I found out that currently there is no "solution" for close loop. I guess I was naive to think that a tune with the AEM FIC will be the last piece of the setup.

setup:
- CTE S/C
- RSX-S injectors
- AEM meth kit running along with Snow Performance solenoid valve
- AEM FIC w/ modified harness by Paul
- RV-6 pre-cats deletes & 3rd hi-flow cat
- ATLP J-Pipe
- ATLP quads
- '05 slush box

Apparently Paul is working on a solution for the closed loop issue. Until that comes out in 1.5-2 months, the tuner highly recommended taking out the RSX injectors, pull back the open loop settings for the FIC (not sure the whole thing or partial), and not driving it like it was stolen.

Now my question is, how safe is it to do daily driving (no WOT) with the stock injectors and "not tuned" closed loop? A few weeks ago before the tune, I ran into the problem where the engine was jerking violently and the CEL was flashing like crazy. I thought I blew something up! I flat bedded the car back to the dealer and they confirmed there was nothing bad, except the stock ECU was detecting rich AFR and it was misfiring.

 

^^interesting.....so what kind of tune are ppl like 04accorde and other running? are they doing open-loop or closed-loop? sorry for the noob questions just got confused cause i thought there was FI tuning available for our cars

 

Ill hit u back when I get hiome later today. Typing on my BB is a real pain sometimes. Meanwhile post up some graphs, a/F,

hp, boost etc...

 

as far as the aem meth kit. Is the selenoid vavle a must.? I believe it has to do with fitment levels of hoses or where u put it etc. looking forward to some opinions and comments on c2pid situation. Keep all the info coming.

The fic is currently being used for a tunning method but as far as which method im not sure. from what c2pid was saying it looks like its done with open loop not closed. does this closed loop make it a stand alone or is it still a piggy back.Im sure its much more detailed than that.

 

thanks! i left the whole file at the shop...so i don't have anything with me. maybe i'll swing by on the weekend to grab them.



the solenoid valve is needed if you're placing the spray nozzle after the blower (ie, before the intake manifold)...you shouldn't be putting the nozzle before the blower anyway. the reason the solenoid valve is needed is to prevent siphoning of the meth. you need to wire it together with meth pump...so once the pump starts, it also opens up the valve. paul could actually wire that up with his harness, if required.

as far as i understand, the closed loop solution is another piggy back. could be wrong tho!

 

what is the check valve there for then?

 

glwb

 

the solenoid valve is needed if you're placing the spray nozzle after the blower (ie, before the intake manifold)...you shouldn't be putting the nozzle before the blower anyway. the reason the solenoid valve is needed is to prevent siphoning of the meth. you need to wire it together with meth pump...so once the pump starts, it also opens up the valve. paul could actually wire that up with his harness, if required.

as far as i understand, the closed loop solution is another piggy back. could be wrong tho![/quote]

^^ thanks for the info and your opinion. agreed with placing before intake manifold. i havnt read too much on the selenoid tho.But saw that it was an option with the snow kit. I shot paul a pm in regards to some other things as well. appreciate the response.

 

I could be wrong, but in both the Snow and AEM applications, the solenoid is there to limit boost if you run out of fluid.

Why would anyone put the spray in front of the SC??

 

c2, whats your a/f like in closed loop? only problem i have with my tune is the transition from closed to open loop at 50-75% throttle. cruising speeds and WOT have zero issues, so i can live with it.

i have no idea why your tuner would say to reinstall you stock injectors. just keep a close eye on your wideband and you'll be good

you dont have a choice on some applications where the charger sits on the IM itself. as far as our cars, you can i guess, but i wouldnt do it.

some say it may cause premature wear to the rotors, but no one really knows for sure.

 

i think he said something like 12.3....and if he tries to get anything higher, the ecu would go into limp mode. i guess 12.3 is better than 11.x! he also said he "suspects" the afr will go back to the 11.x over time, it's really hard to say.

now here is the thing...until paul's closed loop solution comes out, and if i ever experience the limp mode kicking again, would manually resetting the ecu help? the manual ecu reset procedure is listed here: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/resetting-ecu-makes-me-happy-747662/

 

Verified from NGK tech # gonna find and order from advanced or someone now. Ill let you guys know the price i found them for

 

how will this spark plug hold up for NA engines ? as in will it improve performance (am not looking for HP and TQ but just a little better throttle response by keeping the inside cooler) or some like that ?

 

btw $47 for 6 from Amazon....free shipping FTW :thumsbup:

 

^^^ i dont think you wil gain anything from these spark plugs. maybe very slight gains but nothing you will feel/notice my $.o2