XLR8 Engine Torque Damper: '04-'08 TL Manual
#1
XLR8 Engine Torque Damper: '04-'08 TL Manual
The XLR8 Performance Engine Torque Damper is designed to reduce engine movement and therefore improve handling and traction. This will help reduce wheel hop, improve cornering and stability, and help the engine stay planted during quick shifts and launches. This kit includes everything needed to install the kit: damper, bracket, hardware, and additional bushings.
http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-300876.aspx
#2
Here is the review from the member who tested it for us:
Everything bolted up as I predicted, the installed was a success. The damper is length adjustable. It comes at shortest length in the box and needs to be extended for this installation. (Shown in pics)
I test drove the car pretty hard for 2 days after install; several trips and various road conditions each day (crappy pavement, slippery rainy weather, curvy mountain roads...)
* I tested a quick 0-60 onto a highway, the car felt perfectly solid the whole time, no longer felt like mounts were broken.
* I no longer need to baby my shifts while cruising to make them feel smoothe.
* Downshifting feel has also improved, rev matching has become super smoothe and easier to perform.
* Shifting while taking a corner feels much much more stable due to virtually no engine movement.
* Quick shifting at high rpm's now won't give passengers whip-lash.
I absolutely felt a difference with this damper vs my stock one. Moving from a complete stop now feels like it should, the car does exactly what you want it to do (take off smoothly). Getting out of first used to be a nightmare (especially up a hill), the rocking of the engine made the entire car kinda bounce a bit as if it had hydrolics up front. I actually tried to replicate that hydrolics bounce feel by pumping the gas at a low speed, but now it isn't possible (a good thing of course).
Any time the clutch is engaged or the instant the gas pedal is floored you will feel a huge difference before and after. I can now drive comfortably in traffic using 1st gear alone. Engine used to rock back and forth making it exremely annoying to stop and go multiple times. All in all, the car feels way better than ever, I'd even say better than when the 3G was new! I think it's ready for a Azine thread/full release! Feel free to use my review/pics to get it started.
Everything bolted up as I predicted, the installed was a success. The damper is length adjustable. It comes at shortest length in the box and needs to be extended for this installation. (Shown in pics)
I test drove the car pretty hard for 2 days after install; several trips and various road conditions each day (crappy pavement, slippery rainy weather, curvy mountain roads...)
* I tested a quick 0-60 onto a highway, the car felt perfectly solid the whole time, no longer felt like mounts were broken.
* I no longer need to baby my shifts while cruising to make them feel smoothe.
* Downshifting feel has also improved, rev matching has become super smoothe and easier to perform.
* Shifting while taking a corner feels much much more stable due to virtually no engine movement.
* Quick shifting at high rpm's now won't give passengers whip-lash.
I absolutely felt a difference with this damper vs my stock one. Moving from a complete stop now feels like it should, the car does exactly what you want it to do (take off smoothly). Getting out of first used to be a nightmare (especially up a hill), the rocking of the engine made the entire car kinda bounce a bit as if it had hydrolics up front. I actually tried to replicate that hydrolics bounce feel by pumping the gas at a low speed, but now it isn't possible (a good thing of course).
Any time the clutch is engaged or the instant the gas pedal is floored you will feel a huge difference before and after. I can now drive comfortably in traffic using 1st gear alone. Engine used to rock back and forth making it exremely annoying to stop and go multiple times. All in all, the car feels way better than ever, I'd even say better than when the 3G was new! I think it's ready for a Azine thread/full release! Feel free to use my review/pics to get it started.
#4
Manual Transmission TL
Automatic Transmission TL
I'm trying to study these pictures to figure out what bracket is needed to make the ETD work for the AT TL. I believe it's illustration #4 in the first pic. However, I haven't tested it on a AT TL so I'm not sure yet of what part is needed. The pics are a bit confusing.
Automatic Transmission TL
I'm trying to study these pictures to figure out what bracket is needed to make the ETD work for the AT TL. I believe it's illustration #4 in the first pic. However, I haven't tested it on a AT TL so I'm not sure yet of what part is needed. The pics are a bit confusing.
#6
It will definitely help. I didn't think it would be as effective as it is since the TL M/T already has a factory damper but the test-fitter swears by it. He will be posting up shortly I'm sure. The factory damper also begins to suffer from deterioration over time, just like any damper. What's nice about the damper we used is the resistance is based on the bushings used so you can change the bushings when they start to fail or install firmer bushings (which we include) for less engine movement.
#7
"Let's Do This"
Im confused bc if i buy the 75a motor mount wouldnt it also eliminate wheel hop, improve tractions, and stop engine movement? why would i need this extra? i have a MT too
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#9
Three Wheelin'
Automatic Transmission TL
I'm trying to study these pictures to figure out what bracket is needed to make the ETD work for the AT TL. I believe it's illustration #4 in the first pic. However, I haven't tested it on a AT TL so I'm not sure yet of what part is needed. The pics are a bit confusing.
I'm trying to study these pictures to figure out what bracket is needed to make the ETD work for the AT TL. I believe it's illustration #4 in the first pic. However, I haven't tested it on a AT TL so I'm not sure yet of what part is needed. The pics are a bit confusing.
I had inACCURATE help me out, and he verified this in person a while back.
#10
Burning Brakes
when this comes out for automatics I will def want to pick one up
#11
It's similar to installing a j-pipe. The idea of the j-pipe is to increase hp/tq and exhaust flow; would that preclude you from installing a high flow third cat b/c you already installed the j-pipe? No, you would install both pieces to improve exhaust flow. So you would buy both the ETD and the mounts if you want to reduce engine movement as much as possible.
#12
Safety Car
Pic below is from a 6MT
Pic below is from a 6MT
Hole #3 is there on the 5AT.
Hole #1 and #2 is NOT there on the 5AT. There is not even a raised boss in that location. I got under the car to get a good look.
I checked the schematics and I see that the 6MT and 5AT do have different engine brackets. So, that explains it there. The engine bracket for the 5AT is lacking the holes, whereas the seperate part number for the 6MT does have the holes.
50610-SEP-A10 BRACKET, RR. ENGINE MOUNTING (MT)
50610-SDB-A01 BRACKET, RR. ENGINE MOUNTING
#14
Three Wheelin'
#18
"Let's Do This"
Well the mounts don't eliminate wheel hop; they reduce it significantly.
It's similar to installing a j-pipe. The idea of the j-pipe is to increase hp/tq and exhaust flow; would that preclude you from installing a high flow third cat b/c you already installed the j-pipe? No, you would install both pieces to improve exhaust flow. So you would buy both the ETD and the mounts if you want to reduce engine movement as much as possible.
It's similar to installing a j-pipe. The idea of the j-pipe is to increase hp/tq and exhaust flow; would that preclude you from installing a high flow third cat b/c you already installed the j-pipe? No, you would install both pieces to improve exhaust flow. So you would buy both the ETD and the mounts if you want to reduce engine movement as much as possible.
Thanx for the explanation I understand. Great products!!
#22
Three Wheelin'
Just to add to what Excelerate responded:
The main job of the ETD is to reduce initial shock of the engine when it rocks back (under acceleration, fast shifting....) The two work great as a team. While a stiff mount does its job well, running it alone back there still means its doing the job of two components. With all the stress it has to deal with from this heavy engine, it will inevitably start to feel the abuse after time. The ETD absorbs a large amount of torque that transfers from the engine under sudden movement or acceleration. The ETD can significantly increase the life and performance of your mount just by absorbing/dispersing that shock.
Anyone who does a before and after should notice a difference with a test drive. Possibly even from a start-up, I know I did.
The main job of the ETD is to reduce initial shock of the engine when it rocks back (under acceleration, fast shifting....) The two work great as a team. While a stiff mount does its job well, running it alone back there still means its doing the job of two components. With all the stress it has to deal with from this heavy engine, it will inevitably start to feel the abuse after time. The ETD absorbs a large amount of torque that transfers from the engine under sudden movement or acceleration. The ETD can significantly increase the life and performance of your mount just by absorbing/dispersing that shock.
Anyone who does a before and after should notice a difference with a test drive. Possibly even from a start-up, I know I did.
#25
J36Twingt28r's,nextgt30r
im gonna look today if i can install this dampner. i checked the accord auto shematics and as far as auto accords it seems like it wont fit. However, 04accordcpe has had an engine swap to a j32 from a 3rd gen tl, and i wonder if he needed to change his rear engine bracket to a 3rd gen rear engine bracket to bolt on the tl engine? if not, it seems like all the 7th gen needs is the 3rd gen tl 6-speed rear engine bracket. hopefully this will work for accords too!!!
Last edited by tenzingsherpa; 02-17-2010 at 10:37 AM.
#27
"Let's Do This"
Just to add to what Excelerate responded:
The main job of the ETD is to reduce initial shock of the engine when it rocks back (under acceleration, fast shifting....) The two work great as a team. While a stiff mount does its job well, running it alone back there still means its doing the job of two components. With all the stress it has to deal with from this heavy engine, it will inevitably start to feel the abuse after time. The ETD absorbs a large amount of torque that transfers from the engine under sudden movement or acceleration. The ETD can significantly increase the life and performance of your mount just by absorbing/dispersing that shock.
Anyone who does a before and after should notice a difference with a test drive. Possib
ly even from a start-up, I know I did.
The main job of the ETD is to reduce initial shock of the engine when it rocks back (under acceleration, fast shifting....) The two work great as a team. While a stiff mount does its job well, running it alone back there still means its doing the job of two components. With all the stress it has to deal with from this heavy engine, it will inevitably start to feel the abuse after time. The ETD absorbs a large amount of torque that transfers from the engine under sudden movement or acceleration. The ETD can significantly increase the life and performance of your mount just by absorbing/dispersing that shock.
Anyone who does a before and after should notice a difference with a test drive. Possib
ly even from a start-up, I know I did.
#28
J36Twingt28r's,nextgt30r
YUP automatic 7th gen v6 accords don't have the two threaded holes either, so im assuming since the 5at is same in tl & accords then all the 7th gens need are the 3rd gen manual tl part #4 for the ETD to fit.
#29
Three Wheelin'
Oem damper is just like suspension shocks (gas-filled), so it will wear after time/abuse. If you have ripped mounts and wheel-hop, stock damper will definitely be worn. And with the OEM, you'll need to re-purchase the entire assembly every time its worn vs. 2 small bushings.
-But
Its only half of the solution. I never looked at the subframe bracket for the Accord. You'll have to check to see if it has the #3 threaded hole right under the rear engine mount (shown below). I couldn't figure that one out on the parts website..
#31
347hp/300tq @ 4psi
iTrader: (3)
kinda looks like the cc auto nrg damper kit, which ive had in my car for 3 years now. its for the 2nd, 3rd gen TL and 6th, 7th gen accord, both auto and MT. it also fits in the same spot at the rear of the engine, which is the best place for it. it helps keep the engine from rocking back and pulling up on the front mount.
Last edited by 04accordcpe; 02-17-2010 at 04:30 PM.
#35
J36Twingt28r's,nextgt30r
I crossed the parts with honda's parts website. Looks like all 7G Accords share the same engine bracket as the AT 3G TL. So you would need the same bracket for the MT.
-But
Its only half of the solution. I never looked at the subframe bracket for the Accord. You'll have to check to see if it has the #3 threaded hole right under the rear engine mount (shown below). I couldn't figure that one out on the parts website..
-But
Its only half of the solution. I never looked at the subframe bracket for the Accord. You'll have to check to see if it has the #3 threaded hole right under the rear engine mount (shown below). I couldn't figure that one out on the parts website..
#36
Middle Finger anyone?
iTrader: (9)
I got to be honest. The price seems quite high. Any other NRG kit is selling for $90-$100. Whether it be on ebay or any other online performance store.
If it was an Ingall's Damper, then $150 would make sense. But it is an NRG damper. And I don't think it would be fair to pay $50-$60 more just because XLR8 is the only company with a damper for the TL.
I was going to get one right away when I first heard about it, but the price has discouraged me from pulling the trigger. And now I am on the fence about it.
If it was an Ingall's Damper, then $150 would make sense. But it is an NRG damper. And I don't think it would be fair to pay $50-$60 more just because XLR8 is the only company with a damper for the TL.
I was going to get one right away when I first heard about it, but the price has discouraged me from pulling the trigger. And now I am on the fence about it.
#37
Three Wheelin'
XLR8 has the bracket made from scratch by a machine shop. Machine shops can get very pricey for small quantity production. Just cuz of the shop labor alone, this is a very very generous price. I was actually very surprised to see it this low!
So with all of the packaging, parts, & labor required, I highly doubt that at this price the marginal gains for him are extraordinary...
#38
I got to be honest. The price seems quite high. Any other NRG kit is selling for $90-$100. Whether it be on ebay or any other online performance store.
If it was an Ingall's Damper, then $150 would make sense. But it is an NRG damper. And I don't think it would be fair to pay $50-$60 more just because XLR8 is the only company with a damper for the TL.
I was going to get one right away when I first heard about it, but the price has discouraged me from pulling the trigger. And now I am on the fence about it.
If it was an Ingall's Damper, then $150 would make sense. But it is an NRG damper. And I don't think it would be fair to pay $50-$60 more just because XLR8 is the only company with a damper for the TL.
I was going to get one right away when I first heard about it, but the price has discouraged me from pulling the trigger. And now I am on the fence about it.