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XLR8 Engine Torque Damper: '04-'08 TL Manual

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Old 03-17-2010, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Tripnbeats View Post
oh and i took the damper apart last night.....and put blue loctite on every single thread inside and out....reassembled it this morning to the exact distance of the holes to line up. Im using and sticking to the red poly bushing on the damper....they feel great!
The question that I have why you have to do the all this work taking it apart and putting it together. Because the first person that took it apart had a lose part inside. Is the product not working correctly.
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Old 03-17-2010, 03:46 PM
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nonono i took it apart because i saw the thread on it coming it apart, so to be 100% sure of the work at the end of the day i threw some blue goop on there so i dont have to go back n work on it again.
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Old 03-17-2010, 03:52 PM
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to take the piece apart is less than 30 secs.....to reassemble.....31 secs....there is no flaw in the part jus flaw in hondas vibrations from hell.
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Old 03-17-2010, 08:52 PM
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Damn I just sold this engine damper I took off my acura legend it looks like the same length probably could of just bought the brackets. Would you sell just the brackets?

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Old 03-18-2010, 04:06 AM
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yea that woulda prob worked.....i have an ingalls one and i dont know if it works but it looks flawless.....but i still got the nrg one just cuz it was brand new
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Old 03-18-2010, 09:53 PM
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just placed my order thanks
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:48 PM
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sooo i was talking to someone on the forum about the ingalls damper i have...... so I did a comparison. i swapped from nrg to ingalls and set the damper how i like it....next i take the car for a run....come back take the ingalls out n install the nrg.
sooo then before i installed the nrg back in, i took both dampers apart n checked the insides....the one thing that is better on the ingalls is that it has a 1 piece shaft not 2 like the nrg that supports the bushings... but that really doesnt even effect the performance of it so who cares right?, right. well... the bushings on the NRG are thicker and have no signs of stress....the ingalls after a few hits on the gas and shifts... it felt fatigued and also showed stress marks on this waxy layer they put on the ingalls bushings..... the nrg??? nothing what so ever.
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Old 03-24-2010, 05:04 AM
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I really need to get one of these, my engine feels like it moves around alot in 1st & 2nd gear while driving slow in a parking lot. Does this improve a lot with the damper?
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Old 03-24-2010, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Roger555 View Post
I really need to get one of these, my engine feels like it moves around alot in 1st & 2nd gear while driving slow in a parking lot. Does this improve a lot with the damper?

Yes
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Old 03-24-2010, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Roger555 View Post
I really need to get one of these, my engine feels like it moves around alot in 1st & 2nd gear while driving slow in a parking lot. Does this improve a lot with the damper?
I come from the same headache..

Let me put it this way, I immediately loved this mod from the moment I backed up off the ramps on my driveway after install. The car felt solid right away, I didn't have to bounce the rpms as much to get going like before, all I have to do now is ease off the clutch and give just a little gas. And thats my experience just from moving just a couple feet here, image how the rest of your driving experience will improve
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Old 03-24-2010, 06:38 PM
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HUGE improvement bro!!! its a totally different car.
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Old 03-24-2010, 06:42 PM
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does anyone with this damper have a bit more vibration than previously between 1000-2500rpm? its not so much a vibration maybe as much as a noise? tough to describe. its a low bassy tone like you're lugging the motor (but 1000rpm in first gear isnt lugging on a flat surface). i've had this condition since the day i installed the damper. not a complaint in the least, so don't read this the wrong way.
well today, about half way home from work i was at 2000rpm in 3rd and 4th gear through slower moving traffic and no 'vibration'...i have no way of looking under the car until tomorrow but i'm hoping i'm just used to it or something but the motor feels sloppy again....hope its all in my head. will check tomorrow....otherwise this is a decent mod for the money and super easy installation.. but i WILL be getting motor mounts next because the car is still sloppy in my opinion, and i don't do burnouts or slam gears or anything like that, i just want my car more civil in stop and go traffic.
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Old 03-25-2010, 01:39 AM
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i have the modified mounts...so noise is jus part of it....even the low tone...so that doesnt help...bu i tighten the damper pulling down on the motor if that helps any....the stock motor mounts dont break from being pushed down they break from being extended away from the base passed its expansion point..... or at least thats how it feels when u push down on the clutch at high rpms switching gears... going forward....if u were going in reverse in more than one gear then we'd have dampers on the front mount too. so if the damper pulls down a bit on the motor it wont let the rear mount stretch passed its point in both directions down or up. itll stiffen it up a bit n give it that planted feeling as u accelerate.
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Old 03-25-2010, 04:38 AM
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order placed!
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Old 03-25-2010, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Tripnbeats View Post
i have the modified mounts...so noise is jus part of it....even the low tone...so that doesnt help...bu i tighten the damper pulling down on the motor if that helps any....the stock motor mounts dont break from being pushed down they break from being extended away from the base passed its expansion point..... or at least thats how it feels when u push down on the clutch at high rpms switching gears... going forward....if u were going in reverse in more than one gear then we'd have dampers on the front mount too. so if the damper pulls down a bit on the motor it wont let the rear mount stretch passed its point in both directions down or up. itll stiffen it up a bit n give it that planted feeling as u accelerate.
how stiff are your mounts? i was thinking maybe the 75a mounts from xlr8. easy install with a lift and air tools?
as far as noise goes, i don't mind the noise or vibration at all, i'm just annoyed that it suddenly feels like it did before the damper. hope its all in my head. will post results later when i find out what happened.
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Old 03-25-2010, 06:24 AM
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Maybe your strut came apart inside like the guy a few posts up? You say you can't feel it anymore plus your getting this vibration?
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Old 03-25-2010, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Roger555 View Post
Maybe your strut came apart inside like the guy a few posts up? You say you can't feel it anymore plus your getting this vibration?
i'm NOT getting the vibration anymore which was the first thing that made me think something was wrong..then it felt sloppy.. hoping something easy came apart. the only thing i really care about is the cast aluminum bolt hole on the block. we'll see around 5pm when my car gets on the lift.
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:01 AM
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i would say loctite inside and retighten it if you do take it off, just as a precaution
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:26 AM
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Question

Originally Posted by HQTL6SPD View Post
i would say loctite inside and retighten it if you do take it off, just as a precaution
are you suggesting loctite and tighten before you install the 1st time?
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Old 03-25-2010, 10:42 AM
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id recommend that. i "loctited" every single thread the night b4 just as a precaution
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Old 03-25-2010, 04:35 PM
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I didn't loctite at all, and have had no problems these past 2 months..

It's not critical, but doesn't hurt doing to do it either.

I guess it varies depending on the driver or engine mounts
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Old 03-26-2010, 01:51 AM
  #102  
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i need one of these!
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Old 03-26-2010, 06:05 AM
  #103  
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Make one for AT !!!!!
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Old 03-26-2010, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by KidChenz89 View Post
Make one for AT !!!!!
I think from what I have read this will work for 5AT! You just need to buy an additional bracket that mounts to the engine(I believe)so that the dampner can attach to that bracket. I asked a couple pages back if any auto's have done this yet, no response. And I am also unsure of what part needs to be ordered to make this work, cause I am def. looking to get one.
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Old 03-26-2010, 05:06 PM
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The only additional part an auto needs to make it work is #4:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal

P/N: 50610-SEP-A10 BRACKET, RR. ENGINE MOUNTING (MT)

Then you're good to go.
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Old 03-26-2010, 07:35 PM
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yea u need the manual tranny rear motor mount bracket...then its easy install.....I have the 62a ones and they feel ok but i want the 75....im expecting them whenever josh gets em. plus i ordered more poly bushings for the damper because i blew the red ones ....when i put the damper back in i didnt tighten down all of its points and it shifted incorrectly and blew one of the red ones and slightly warped the other....ill post pics tomorrow.....but the softer black ones feel nice too a lil too soft for me but they feel ok.
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Old 03-27-2010, 12:13 AM
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I already have the 75a excelerate mounts and I'm going turbo. Is the damper worth the money with the 75a mounts already?
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Old 03-27-2010, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by HQTL6SPD View Post
The only additional part an auto needs to make it work is #4:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal

P/N: 50610-SEP-A10 BRACKET, RR. ENGINE MOUNTING (MT)

Then you're good to go.
Thanks, I was hoping someone could lead me in the right direction. I plan to do this as soon as my suspension gets done. I will post my results, unless someone with a 5AT beats me to it!
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Old 03-27-2010, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by libert69 View Post
I already have the 75a excelerate mounts and I'm going turbo. Is the damper worth the money with the 75a mounts already?
Yes
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Old 03-27-2010, 11:05 AM
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yes libert
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Old 03-27-2010, 11:06 AM
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Old 03-27-2010, 04:46 PM
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finally had a change to get my car on the lift at work today, looks like the bottom section of the torque damper backed out. based on what i can see, that part is only like 2 full threads in. there doesn't seem to be another way to lengthen the whole torque damper....its back together now without any loctite or extra tightening so i'm sure it'll come apart again over the next few days. next week when i have more time i'll take the whole thing completely apart and start over. the last thing i want to do is pre-load the motor and install the damper and have the tab on the block crack from the load....am i being too cautious?
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Old 03-27-2010, 11:03 PM
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I put the damper on my car straight out of the box and two weeks later it felt sloppy again. I took it apart and on the inside the threads on the shaft were loose causing some play. I tightened it with some red loctite and I haven't had another problem since. It's been awhile.

I don't understand the pre-loading the motor thing? Please explain? Are you pushing the motor towards the front a little and then tightening the damper?
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by NCTL05 View Post
I put the damper on my car straight out of the box and two weeks later it felt sloppy again. I took it apart and on the inside the threads on the shaft were loose causing some play. I tightened it with some red loctite and I haven't had another problem since. It's been awhile.

I don't understand the pre-loading the motor thing? Please explain? Are you pushing the motor towards the front a little and then tightening the damper?
exactly, rocking the motor in such a way to tighten the damper more than you may normally be able to...
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Old 03-30-2010, 08:34 AM
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Question Updates

Anyone have new updates?
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Old 03-30-2010, 11:08 AM
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the whole preload is to keep the motor in virtually its standard position without movement to the back....or u can pull it back.....ive tried both....but im waiting on some parts right now so i dont wanna start testing too much.
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Old 03-30-2010, 11:13 AM
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I think whether you use the soft or hard bushings you will get vibration if you do the preload thing.

I might try this. How far do you move the motor?

XLR8, can you chime in on this?
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Old 03-30-2010, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Tripnbeats View Post
the whole preload is to keep the motor in virtually its standard position without movement to the back....or u can pull it back.....ive tried both....but im waiting on some parts right now so i dont wanna start testing too much.
I was thinking about this. The motor tends to roll backward during acceleration. So to improve the damper's effeciency you would push the motor forward and tighten the damper. If you move the motor backward and tighten the damper in that position you are only making the problem worse for acceleration. However it will prevent the engine from rocking forward as bad when you let off the go pedal. So I think with all that logic out of the way it should just be installed without moving the engine either way. Call it a neutral setting. You will get the best and most even results between rocking forward or backward.

What would yield the best result is a solid bar instead of the damper. But your car would be vibrating alot. But your motor won't move forwards or backwards. I wonder what would happen if this was done on stock motor mounts? How well would this react to the stock mushy mounts? Would the stock mounts wear out quicker?
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Old 03-31-2010, 03:10 PM
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the motor gets thrown forward when u smash the clutch going for the next gear so my thought on it is keep it pulled down. but now the keep it forward sounds good too.....it feels good being held down because the gear seems to engage faster, either way when i get new red bushings ill push it up and see how it feels
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Old 03-31-2010, 04:19 PM
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I just got mine plan on installing this weekend. I don't like the thought of excess vibrations but I do really hate how my engine is jumping around coasting through a parking lot in 1st or 2nd. Will I be happy with the black or should I go for the reds?
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