Winter is approaching. I'm offering out a helpful hand to those that are storing their cars and want any headlight work done this winter. I'll be bored so I'll need some side work to do. Not going to offer any taillight service at this moment, I have to buy a new dremel. I can meet you in Hinkley to pick up and drop off your headlights.

 

What about those who dont store their cars ?
Lets murder out this NBP !

 

Those too lol, just can't afford to drive to the cities every weekend this winter!!

 

Ill drive up whenever and bring beer + Xbox360

 

So after ten months, my brand new Sears Die hard gold battery decided to take a crap on me. I'm just glad that I was at home and not out and about somewhere else when this had happened. I also only had the car parked for the past 3 days and I guess the coldness today killed it. Looks like I will be picking up an Interstate battery tomorrow . I had the Interstate battery in my old car for 2 yrs and it gave me no problems what so over. Okay /rant lol.

Reminder to all you guys to check up on your cars & ect.

 

So what do you have for a ride and what mods?

 

Battery tender that's what I use, specialy in the winter during exterme cold weather. Since my car is in storage.

 

I hear you there dude. I might have to drive to Duluth this winter since I recieved a suprise. If i get light i can do a two in one trip.

 

I'm starting to think that maybe the Die hard gold or die hard batteries can't cold up in the cold. Because my mom had the Die hard gold in her 06 Toyota Corolla S and it took a crap on her last Winter. I'm ready for my Interstate Mega-tron battery, it took two Winters with the old car without giving me any problems. Before I traded it in for the TL.

 

Ive only owned the car for 2 months so not that many.

'04 NBP 6MT 59k
Ebay intake w/ K&N
RV6 V3
P2R spacer/gaskets
Supercomputer pedals
Painted wheels

to be installed next week:
Progress RSB
Tsudo Cat Back
StopTech front pads
OEM spark plugs

 

I want to plastidip the grill and rear emblems and murder out the headlights.

Im leaving the country February 1st for 5 months so the car will be in storage.

 

Not a bad start .

Debadge the rear emblems and keep just the A, then plastidip it. Or since your car is NBP, it'll still look nice with the A being chrome . Edit: To spice things up a bit, you can either get TL type s tail lights or the Ghost tail lights.

 

I need to meet up with Nate asap, hes the man with all the answers haha
I really like my TL, but I dont see myself going any further then what my plan is for now, im opening a business soon and planning a lot of traveling for 2012 and thats BIG $$$ consuming already haha...

 

Are you in the forces?

 

I was some years ago.... I am going to fight Wako K-1 Asia championship and in March moving to Thailand for 3 months for boxing.

 

So I took my Die hard gold battery off the car and dropped it off at Sears. The guy that worked there said that it was too low and he would have to charge it to be able to test if it's good or bad. (30-45 minutes) While I dropped it off, my brother took me to Tires plus to pick up my new Interstate battery. So if any of you guys are looking for a newer battery, I have a 10 month old Die hard gold 24F rated at 700cca up for sale. LMK I bought it for $109 something and I'll sell it for half that price.

 

+1

I debadged my NBP and left the chrome A and it looks good. I've had my taillights blacked out (tint) for about a year now and it looks good. I also sprayed my side markers with Nightshade and it looks pretty sick in my opinion.

 

Good start to it. That's seriously some low miles for that year car. My friends 08 Type S has more miles lol

 

That was the reason I bought it, the original owner moved to MN from Florida and traded it in after a year or so...
I bought it with 56k and since changed cabin air filter, coolant flush, brake/clutch flush, PS flush and tranny flush to Synchromesh and the car drives great.
My only issues with the car is there are some minor interior rattles but im pretty sure its coming from the glove compartment and I can fix it myself and ofcourse its FWD

 

I see they have a KBPS for sale at white bear Acura for 20k. Thinking of trading mine in for that. My favorite color and a type S! Jorge, you should get test drive it for me!!

 

Sure bro I willdrive it and let you know.

 

http://technolog.msnbc.msn.com/_news...tarts-mans-car

 

Nice. Have you noticed any difference when you switched to Synchromesh? I need to do a tranny flush, but have been putting it off. Also need to swap out my cabin air filter soon.

 

Here's the one I was looking at. I've never dealt with a trade in, and I'm not sure how the whole things works since I still owe the bank $15k for my car. can anyone shed some light on this that has dealt with something like this. I suppose it all depends on what they give me for as a trade in, and if it's anything less than what I owe on the car will just be added to the new loan?

http://whitebearacurasubaru.com/preowned-inventory/2007_Acura_TL_White_Bear_Lake_19UUA76517A001142.as px

 

I just picked up a battery tender! Needed to get one because my battery was already dead on the TL-S, and it's only been in storage for 1 1/2 mo. now!

 

Your right, it all really depends on how much your car is worth on a trade in. If it's worth more than you owe, then you're good to go. If it's worth less than what you owe, then you'll need to work that out with the dealer. Usually the difference will just get rolled up into your new loan.

Did you notice that this KBP Type-S has the Aspec wheels on it, and not the Type-S wheels? Not that it's a bad thing...but wonder what happened to the factory Type-S wheels?

 

That makes sense. According to NADA for a rough trade in value it'd be $14,900. So hopefully they'd give me what I ower or very close to it then I'd do it. If they offered me $10K for my car, forget it.

I noticed that too, I like the Aspec's as opposed to the Type-S wheels.

Looks like it's already off the website! Oh well.

 

It is still there.
http://whitebear-acura.com/St-Paul-M...e-Car/3816735/

I don't recall which type TL you have but I am guessing a 2004-2006 model. Which if that is the case I highly doubt you will get 14,900 for it. In my experience dealers like running on 30% margin points so if they bought your trade in for 15,000 that means they will mark it up 30% or 4,500 so it would be for sale for 19,500. Check Autotrader to see if that is above or below similar TL's to yours. Having looked at the TL you're interested in which is for sale for 21,000 using my 30% figure the dealer probably got that one for 16,000-17,000. Also it is an extremely low VIN number my old TL was A005530 and was built 11/06 so this one was probably built in 10/06 which means it is already a five year old car.

So with all that said it is more than likely you are upside down or even when you trade in. Which means you'll have no equity going into a new car so you will need a sizeable cash down payment to offset that and dealers prefer 20-30% down so on a 21,000 car expect the dealer to want 4,200-6,300 down.

Then there are the post sale items that get added onto the 21,000. They will try to sell you on an extended warranty like the Acuracare coverage to 100,000 miles or 4-5 years which ever is first that is usually about 1,500-2,000. Also don't forget about TTL, Tax, Title and License which again will be in the area of 1,500-1,700. So if you go for the warranty your out the door total could be 24,000-25,000 without 22,500 to 23,000.

Then of course is the financing of the car do not expect outstanding rates from a dealer especially if you have less than perfect credit. Use the car payment calculator link to determine what your payment maybe on all of these factors.
http://www.edmunds.com/calculators/s...ed-pricing.htm

Hope this helps.

 

I noticed a difference only after a week.
My 3rd gear is really nice, but it made it feel completely brand new, also 4,5 and 6 go in nicer.

Not a major difference, the old fluid didnt look too bad.
Cabin air filter shouldnt take more then 15 minutes, I followed one of the DIY and it was cake.

Today I installed the Progress RSB and Tsudo Cat Back.

Progress RSB: damn that thing makes a big difference, I feel the car much more firmer when I take ramps and even switch lanes.

Tsudo: Bought it used and it came in good shape, the welds are good quality and the construction and fit are great. My exhaust set up is now RV6 V3 and Tsudo catback and it sounds great when I step on it, the Tsudo made a big difference in HP and I will be taking the TL to the dyno soon.

My main problem with this exhaust is the drone, im sure the Jpipe enhances the drone, but after an hour of driving the car since installing it im already sick of it.
I would appreciate any ideas for the drone solutions !

 

I had the same problem with my set up. ATLP with the rv6 v3, very raspy and drone. I'd suggest installing a resonator, that seemed to help some people out.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/45398724@N06/4813134366/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/45398724@N06/4812452583/

 

Looks like I get to have an end-link party. lol. Goodyear wanted $150 to install just the front left. $40 parts, $110 for the end link. I can get the damn OEM end link for $20.

 

Hey Nate,
Which resonator would kill the drone ?

 

Yes Nate is the man.

 

The OEM links were much cheaper than the In-galls or any of the other brands SURPRISING.

 

It is a certified preowned This means he gets a warranty for another 100,000 miles and that is included in the price. Is like having a new car warranty.

 

It's a magnaflow 10426 I believe.

 

I think that it got sold over the weekend, it was traded in on a 2011 Tsx special edtion. It did have aspec wheels with dunlop wintersports on them. Sounds like he kept the type s wheels for summer wheels for the Tsx.

 

I figured with that price it was going to go fast lol.
I can't find a type S anywhere for less then $26k

 

Dont settle for anything but 6MT.
They are so fun

 

You saying it's surprising that I can get OEM for half the cost of some Autozone/Napa/O'reilly's brand?

Or are you trying to tell me the OEM's are crap and there's a reason they are so cheap?