Turbo Kit for Acura TL '04-'08
#3441
Burning Brakes
As I can see John posted already ..........thank you for the update hi-speed and we get you connected to fic well perfect that tune for you ,my only main concern in pic is I included extra dei wrap with the kit to wrap radiator hose especially the lower one , this is to prevent it from touching manifold and possibly burst so if u could get those wrapped that would be great the upper one can be twisted so it's not touching manifold , but otherwise it all looks great ...........
#3444
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
bravo Hi Speed.. best of luck getting the tune down. I love my slushhy and if Bert gets his running at even moderate levels I'm down for this otherwise I would be up for trading up to a 6MT.
#3451
Burning Brakes
congrats hispeed!! motor looking good with that turbo...hopefully we can get some video clips soon!
#3452
Team Owner
Very cool! It's great to have another up and running. Have you dyno'd it yet? I would bet you're making considerably more power now than before. The smoothness of the powerband with the turbo is deceptive and will make the car feel slower than it really is.
#3454
Team Owner
Generally, since you're not relying on the methanol to make the car run like I do, I would start off small and ramp up from there. The best advice I can give is to start off small and keep ramping up in small increments until power starts falling off. I would drive for a few days in between changes.
If you're running pure methanol which I highly recommend, you may not have to start with the smallest nozzle. If you're running iso+water I would definately start with the smallest nozzle.
#3455
runnin a little boost
iTrader: (3)
I'm also not running a turbo timer on the car since the shop wanted to install an aftermarket alarm to make the TT work without the key in the ignition and that's not happening. I have heard mixed reviews on whether it's needed.
Another issue is my AFR gauge I paid $300 + for is not working right and I have been too busy to get back to the shop. It reads 7.4 or 22.2, so oil tanker fuel usage or leaner that the TL diet. So I haven't been pushing it very hard for fear one of the readings might be right.
#3456
Safety Car
Looks like Snow is using the same identical pump as DevilsOwn and AlcoholInjectionSystems.
http://www.snowperformance.net/news_item.php?prk=121
In general for all three vendors of this pump, it is delivered with a 200 PSI setting. The pump is adjustable from 150 to 250 PSI.
By the way, this pump is very heavy
http://www.snowperformance.net/news_item.php?prk=121
In general for all three vendors of this pump, it is delivered with a 200 PSI setting. The pump is adjustable from 150 to 250 PSI.
By the way, this pump is very heavy
#3457
Team Owner
The blower was running at 320 WHP and around 300 TQ. My current tune is 312 WHP and 310 TQ. The turbo lag is what I am not use to, I feel like I'm doing a ricer flyby on people since you have to really manhandle the car to get into boost and once there you have to let off because the car is accelerating too fast. One thing I miss about the blower was the explosive , smoke the tires in 3rd gear feeling, the power of the turbo comes in more smoothly. Once I get my tune refined I think it will be back to explosive power again.
I'm also not running a turbo timer on the car since the shop wanted to install an aftermarket alarm to make the TT work without the key in the ignition and that's not happening. I have heard mixed reviews on whether it's needed.
Another issue is my AFR gauge I paid $300 + for is not working right and I have been too busy to get back to the shop. It reads 7.4 or 22.2, so oil tanker fuel usage or leaner that the TL diet. So I haven't been pushing it very hard for fear one of the readings might be right.
I'm also not running a turbo timer on the car since the shop wanted to install an aftermarket alarm to make the TT work without the key in the ignition and that's not happening. I have heard mixed reviews on whether it's needed.
Another issue is my AFR gauge I paid $300 + for is not working right and I have been too busy to get back to the shop. It reads 7.4 or 22.2, so oil tanker fuel usage or leaner that the TL diet. So I haven't been pushing it very hard for fear one of the readings might be right.
7.4 almost sounds like you have a misfire. 22 is somewhat normal as you lift off the throttle right before it goes completely into fuel cut.
You really don't have to worry about the turbo timer. Just remember to drive it easy the last mile or so before shutdown and it will live a long life. With a good oil like Redline, coking is almost a non-issue.
I have first hand experience with the turbo in this kit and it's a very lively, quick spooler which is why I have a feeling you're running rich. Next time you go from a roll race, try downshifting ahead of time and dragging the brakes with your left foot and your right foot deep into the throttle holding a few psi of boost ready. It will feel like a different car. Of course, don't do this for more than a few seconds at a time.
#3458
runnin a little boost
iTrader: (3)
I have a few questions about the turbo. First does the turbo continue to spin once I shut off the engine. Mine doesn't seem to and stops right away. If I rev the engine should my turbo spool and the blow off valve release, because it doesn't seem to. I have been letting the car idle for a min before shut off to cool the turbo just to be safe. I have also melted some connectors so anyone doing the turbo needs to zip tie stuff out of the way to avoid this.
#3459
18psi
iTrader: (7)
Do you know what the pump pressure is?
Generally, since you're not relying on the methanol to make the car run like I do, I would start off small and ramp up from there. The best advice I can give is to start off small and keep ramping up in small increments until power starts falling off. I would drive for a few days in between changes.
If you're running pure methanol which I highly recommend, you may not have to start with the smallest nozzle. If you're running iso+water I would definately start with the smallest nozzle.
Generally, since you're not relying on the methanol to make the car run like I do, I would start off small and ramp up from there. The best advice I can give is to start off small and keep ramping up in small increments until power starts falling off. I would drive for a few days in between changes.
If you're running pure methanol which I highly recommend, you may not have to start with the smallest nozzle. If you're running iso+water I would definately start with the smallest nozzle.
#3460
Safety Car
If running pure methanol versus a water/methanol mixture, please be aware that methanol is a health risk. Prolonged exposure over time will have accumulative effectives on the body. That is, any contact will build-up in your body. It won't hurt you today or tomorrow, but it will harm you eventually with repeated careless contact.
This is *not* meant to scare anyone away from using pure methanol. On the contrary, this warning is meant to help anyone that wishes to use straight methanol to use proper care when handling methanol. From my readings, most people prefer straight methanol (better performance) versus a water/methanol mixture.
Just follow some basic guidelines and you will be fine.
1) Vent the methanol tank to the exterior of the vehicle.
2) If the reservoir is mounted in the interior (including trunk). periodically verify that the reservoir fittings and lid are not leaking. Leaks will produces vapors that you will breath.
2) Do not allow methanol to make contact with your skin. I would recommend wearing gloves. I plan to.
3) Do not allow methanol to splatter in your eyes. I recommend wearing safety glasses. I plan to.
4) Avoid breathing the methanol fumes. I recommend having a fan nearby to create a breeze to blow the fumes away from you when filling your reservoir. I will.
IHC - Where do you purchase your pure methanol? I found some places on the internet that I plan to try. Any internet places that you can recommend from first-hand experience ?
This is *not* meant to scare anyone away from using pure methanol. On the contrary, this warning is meant to help anyone that wishes to use straight methanol to use proper care when handling methanol. From my readings, most people prefer straight methanol (better performance) versus a water/methanol mixture.
Just follow some basic guidelines and you will be fine.
1) Vent the methanol tank to the exterior of the vehicle.
2) If the reservoir is mounted in the interior (including trunk). periodically verify that the reservoir fittings and lid are not leaking. Leaks will produces vapors that you will breath.
2) Do not allow methanol to make contact with your skin. I would recommend wearing gloves. I plan to.
3) Do not allow methanol to splatter in your eyes. I recommend wearing safety glasses. I plan to.
4) Avoid breathing the methanol fumes. I recommend having a fan nearby to create a breeze to blow the fumes away from you when filling your reservoir. I will.
IHC - Where do you purchase your pure methanol? I found some places on the internet that I plan to try. Any internet places that you can recommend from first-hand experience ?
#3461
Safety Car
1) straight water vs Methanol or a Methanol mixture (click here)
2) Straight meth, who runs it in their system only (click here)
3) How much octane does methanol injection really add? (click here)
4) Tired of Water or Water & Methanol Injection Questions? I AM! (click here)
#3463
Safety Car
^ Outside. I will run mine inside because that is the way that I am.... you know me by now.
But the advice that I would give anyone else is to run the injection line outside, along the oem fuel lines along the undercarriage.
There is no advantage to running the lines inside. However, there are several important reasons not to.
1) Methanol burns with an invisible flame. Very ugly situation *if* the pure methanol was to catch afire.
2) If the nylon line was to develop a pin-hole leak, you would be breathing methanol fumes, which is toxic.
But the advice that I would give anyone else is to run the injection line outside, along the oem fuel lines along the undercarriage.
There is no advantage to running the lines inside. However, there are several important reasons not to.
1) Methanol burns with an invisible flame. Very ugly situation *if* the pure methanol was to catch afire.
2) If the nylon line was to develop a pin-hole leak, you would be breathing methanol fumes, which is toxic.
#3465
runnin a little boost
iTrader: (3)
I have been holding on to the blower just in case the turbo is causing too many problems. I will likely put it up on the BM in a little while once I get the turbo all squared away. I'm also trying to decide if I should start parting the j-pipe and pro cats or sell it all together.
#3466
Team Owner
I have a few questions about the turbo. First does the turbo continue to spin once I shut off the engine. Mine doesn't seem to and stops right away. If I rev the engine should my turbo spool and the blow off valve release, because it doesn't seem to. I have been letting the car idle for a min before shut off to cool the turbo just to be safe. I have also melted some connectors so anyone doing the turbo needs to zip tie stuff out of the way to avoid this.
Revving the engine and letting off the throttle usually won't cause it to blow off. You can't build boost in neutral because the engine requires load to make boost. The exception to this is a revlimiter. You can build some boost on the limiter. Next time rev it quickly with the pedal to the floor each time. Let rpms fall to 2K and floor it to the limiter over and over and it will build some boost and start blowing off.
At idle, if you can see the compressor wheel, it should be turning on a turbo of this size with a BB center section. It may not be very fast but it will turn at idle.
#3467
Team Owner
^ Outside. I will run mine inside because that is the way that I am.... you know me by now.
But the advice that I would give anyone else is to run the injection line outside, along the oem fuel lines along the undercarriage.
There is no advantage to running the lines inside. However, there are several important reasons not to.
1) Methanol burns with an invisible flame. Very ugly situation *if* the pure methanol was to catch afire.
2) If the nylon line was to develop a pin-hole leak, you would be breathing methanol fumes, which is toxic.
But the advice that I would give anyone else is to run the injection line outside, along the oem fuel lines along the undercarriage.
There is no advantage to running the lines inside. However, there are several important reasons not to.
1) Methanol burns with an invisible flame. Very ugly situation *if* the pure methanol was to catch afire.
2) If the nylon line was to develop a pin-hole leak, you would be breathing methanol fumes, which is toxic.
One thing to think about.... You're under full boost, the methanol is being injected..... Then you let off the gas and the BOV triggers. Mine is in my engine bay. Now you have a fine mist of methanol and compressed air being vented to atmosphere. If so many people had not done it before me with no fires or explosions I would not run it this way but I know of zero incidents.
My friend totaled his TTA into a semi. Smashed the methanol container into the hot turbo. No fire. He was lucky. I've never heard of any methanol fires in wrecks but I think everything should be done to avoid potential problems. I still have to chalk some of this up to luck.
Keep in mind too that many tracks won't let you run with a fuel under the hood. My methanol tank is my stock overflow tank and the line is hidden. I got turned away the first couple times for having meth under the hood. Now it just looks like very clean coolant.
Almost forgot, no places that I know of online. You can usually get it from an ATV store in 5 gallon mini drums. If they hook you up, you can get it for about $4/gallon.
#3471
Team Owner
It probably has a pump that requires lubrication. Those pumps are a bad choice for methanol since it's a very dry fuel and the pump will eventually give up. The juice is likely a lube.
Another reason the alkycontrol kit is so good. In our community, we rely on the methanol 100%. If something goes wrong and it does not come on when the boost comes in, we blow something up right away. In our cars we can only run about 15psi on 91 but we're running 28psi on 91+ methanol, you can see why reliability is important.
The TL does not rely on methanol 100% and this kit is somewhat overkill but you know it's going to work every time, not require a lube for warranty, and the electronics are superior. I've seen the Snow kits after a year of pure methanol and many of the fittings are corroded and leaks are starting.
I know you probably get tired of me saying this and I'm sure you are aware of these points so I apoligize, this is more for the newbs that are still trying to decide on what to get.
#3472
^With the requirement of the injection on your cars, do you or have you though of adding a pressure sensor to the injection system so that if it does fail for whatever reason it cuts boost?
#3473
Team Owner
It is also capable of ramping up the pressure to over 300psi should an overboost occur. We've had guys with a wastegate line pop off and see in excess of 35psi and the engine was fine afterwards. Normally you're lucky if all you do is blow the headgaskets.
#3474
18psi
iTrader: (7)
What are these 2 solenoids for? Do we need them?
Wastegate Solenoid
Solenoid such that boost is reduced in a wastegated turbo set-up.
http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=14
Bypass Valve Solenoid
Solenoid such that boost is reduced by opening a bypass valve.
http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=33
Wastegate Solenoid
Solenoid such that boost is reduced in a wastegated turbo set-up.
http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=14
Bypass Valve Solenoid
Solenoid such that boost is reduced by opening a bypass valve.
http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=33
#3476
I am trying to remeber, the stock gaskets are graphite or MLS on your engine? I know the MLS gaskets are a lot less prone to failure but require much tighter tolerance on the block deck and head surface flatness.
#3477
Team Owner
What are these 2 solenoids for? Do we need them?
Wastegate Solenoid
Solenoid such that boost is reduced in a wastegated turbo set-up.
http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=14
Bypass Valve Solenoid
Solenoid such that boost is reduced by opening a bypass valve.
http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=33
Wastegate Solenoid
Solenoid such that boost is reduced in a wastegated turbo set-up.
http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=14
Bypass Valve Solenoid
Solenoid such that boost is reduced by opening a bypass valve.
http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=33
#3478
That's nice someone finally got a turbo, I was trying to find what turbo kit you have but couldn't find the answer so much reading got me tired so I decided to post it instead. Any reply's would be great thanks. How much was for everything include tuning, seems interesting but you would have to tune it every 3 months is it?
#3479
Safety Car
iTrader: (3)
That's nice someone finally got a turbo, I was trying to find what turbo kit you have but couldn't find the answer so much reading got me tired so I decided to post it instead. Any reply's would be great thanks. How much was for everything include tuning, seems interesting but you would have to tune it every 3 months is it?
Base kit is $8500
Need at least another $1000 on top of that depending on what you add.
#3480
http://jandrnextlevelperformance.com/
Base kit is $8500
Need at least another $1000 on top of that depending on what you add.
Are Base Turbo Kit is 5799.thats a complete kit(turn key)
i dont know if the above statement is a typo but we charged u 5799. kntl
Base kit is $8500
Need at least another $1000 on top of that depending on what you add.
Are Base Turbo Kit is 5799.thats a complete kit(turn key)
i dont know if the above statement is a typo but we charged u 5799. kntl