Turbo Kit for Acura TL '04-'08
10-02-2009, 12:52 PM
#2161
Safety Car
Rodney, thanks for taking the feedback in the helpful way that it was intended. 
In the pic above, the red line is from where the HP and TQ lines cross (intersect). They should cross at 5252 RPM. But in your current graph, you see that they cross at 4375 RPM.
This problem (and actually, the only real problem) is fixed by making sure that scale for the HP and the scale for the TQ are the same.
In other words, you see (in the pic above) that the highest possible number for the HP is 500, whereas the highest possible for the TQ is 600. Make both of these to be the same. If you do that, then the HP and TQ will cross at 5252 RPM.
Just one other *minor* gripe is (see pic below) -
Damn good job that you are doing Rodney. We do apperiacate your hard work.
In the pic above, the red line is from where the HP and TQ lines cross (intersect). They should cross at 5252 RPM. But in your current graph, you see that they cross at 4375 RPM.
This problem (and actually, the only real problem) is fixed by making sure that scale for the HP and the scale for the TQ are the same.
In other words, you see (in the pic above) that the highest possible number for the HP is 500, whereas the highest possible for the TQ is 600. Make both of these to be the same. If you do that, then the HP and TQ will cross at 5252 RPM.
Just one other *minor* gripe is (see pic below) -
Damn good job that you are doing Rodney. We do apperiacate your hard work.
10-02-2009, 01:51 PM
#2162
Three Wheelin'
now you see what im talking about Rodney....not that our dynos should be the same lol...theres no way in hell...
as far as what i said about the powerband shift... its just a shift on the graph layout, and not a shift on the powerband itself... the powerband should shift about 350-400 rpm more to the right
innacurate, thanks for taking the time to point out the flaws..
i just hate to see such great numbers, misaligned
as far as what i said about the powerband shift... its just a shift on the graph layout, and not a shift on the powerband itself... the powerband should shift about 350-400 rpm more to the right
innacurate, thanks for taking the time to point out the flaws..
i just hate to see such great numbers, misaligned
10-02-2009, 03:00 PM
#2163
Burning Brakes
Well Opel if u find faults which is a part of life just explain and 9 out of ten times I'll get it rectified , but i thank inc to point out the actual fault ....,,I strongly believe in listen and youll learn
10-02-2009, 03:21 PM
#2164
Three Wheelin'
agreed....i tried to explain, i guess i didnt do a good job lol.... but either way, this isn't a big deal....just for future reference... youve done a terrific job with everything so far
10-03-2009, 01:18 PM
#2166
Pro
10-03-2009, 01:53 PM
#2167
Team Owner
Doubtful. No one has even tried a set of drag radials. Hopefully once we have a good clutch offering we will see more cars on drag radials. At a minimum they will bring you to a RWD car on normal tires level.
10-07-2009, 05:26 AM
#2169
this was taken from the turbo deposit thread....
i just spent about 6 hours reading every post on every page in this thread as well as the deposit thread. (2nd time)
im almost ready to put my deposit down and i came across this quote on page 4 of the deposit thread after reading 58 other pages.
ive read all the great knowledge from IHC about how autos love turbos and others saying that the 3rd gen tranny has been much improved since the 2nd gen but still has some flaws. however, i dont recall anyone saying anything about the stock auto trannys ability to stand up to this increase in power.
can any of you guys give your opinion on how well the auto tranny will hold up with the installation of this turbo? any s/c guys out there with an auto? hows the tranny holding up with the additional power? like hispeed said, that guy banelba's auto tranny blew and he said he was getting it upgraded but he never replied back.
i was all set to send JandR my deposit but now im scared lol. i asked before about putting a turbo on a 100k mile motor and you guys said it shouldnt be a problem. i never asked about the tranny though. ive never had any tranny issues and i replaced the 2 pressure sensors a few months ago along with a 3x3 flush. tranny shifts fine and feels smooth.
someone make me feel better about this auto tranny thing lol
if all looks good, deposit will be sent, timing belt is getting changed real soon and then november will be here and hopefully so will the full kit
hey rodney, how many people sent deposits for the base tl? last i saw was 4. did it go over 10? is november still the date for receiving the full kit?
im almost ready to put my deposit down and i came across this quote on page 4 of the deposit thread after reading 58 other pages.
ive read all the great knowledge from IHC about how autos love turbos and others saying that the 3rd gen tranny has been much improved since the 2nd gen but still has some flaws. however, i dont recall anyone saying anything about the stock auto trannys ability to stand up to this increase in power.
can any of you guys give your opinion on how well the auto tranny will hold up with the installation of this turbo? any s/c guys out there with an auto? hows the tranny holding up with the additional power? like hispeed said, that guy banelba's auto tranny blew and he said he was getting it upgraded but he never replied back.
i was all set to send JandR my deposit but now im scared lol. i asked before about putting a turbo on a 100k mile motor and you guys said it shouldnt be a problem. i never asked about the tranny though. ive never had any tranny issues and i replaced the 2 pressure sensors a few months ago along with a 3x3 flush. tranny shifts fine and feels smooth.
someone make me feel better about this auto tranny thing lol
if all looks good, deposit will be sent, timing belt is getting changed real soon and then november will be here and hopefully so will the full kit
hey rodney, how many people sent deposits for the base tl? last i saw was 4. did it go over 10? is november still the date for receiving the full kit?
10-07-2009, 07:54 AM
#2170
Team Owner
this was taken from the turbo deposit thread....
i just spent about 6 hours reading every post on every page in this thread as well as the deposit thread. (2nd time)
im almost ready to put my deposit down and i came across this quote on page 4 of the deposit thread after reading 58 other pages.
ive read all the great knowledge from IHC about how autos love turbos and others saying that the 3rd gen tranny has been much improved since the 2nd gen but still has some flaws. however, i dont recall anyone saying anything about the stock auto trannys ability to stand up to this increase in power.
can any of you guys give your opinion on how well the auto tranny will hold up with the installation of this turbo? any s/c guys out there with an auto? hows the tranny holding up with the additional power? like hispeed said, that guy banelba's auto tranny blew and he said he was getting it upgraded but he never replied back.
i was all set to send JandR my deposit but now im scared lol. i asked before about putting a turbo on a 100k mile motor and you guys said it shouldnt be a problem. i never asked about the tranny though. ive never had any tranny issues and i replaced the 2 pressure sensors a few months ago along with a 3x3 flush. tranny shifts fine and feels smooth.
someone make me feel better about this auto tranny thing lol
if all looks good, deposit will be sent, timing belt is getting changed real soon and then november will be here and hopefully so will the full kit
hey rodney, how many people sent deposits for the base tl? last i saw was 4. did it go over 10? is november still the date for receiving the full kit?
i just spent about 6 hours reading every post on every page in this thread as well as the deposit thread. (2nd time)
im almost ready to put my deposit down and i came across this quote on page 4 of the deposit thread after reading 58 other pages.
ive read all the great knowledge from IHC about how autos love turbos and others saying that the 3rd gen tranny has been much improved since the 2nd gen but still has some flaws. however, i dont recall anyone saying anything about the stock auto trannys ability to stand up to this increase in power.
can any of you guys give your opinion on how well the auto tranny will hold up with the installation of this turbo? any s/c guys out there with an auto? hows the tranny holding up with the additional power? like hispeed said, that guy banelba's auto tranny blew and he said he was getting it upgraded but he never replied back.
i was all set to send JandR my deposit but now im scared lol. i asked before about putting a turbo on a 100k mile motor and you guys said it shouldnt be a problem. i never asked about the tranny though. ive never had any tranny issues and i replaced the 2 pressure sensors a few months ago along with a 3x3 flush. tranny shifts fine and feels smooth.
someone make me feel better about this auto tranny thing lol
if all looks good, deposit will be sent, timing belt is getting changed real soon and then november will be here and hopefully so will the full kit
hey rodney, how many people sent deposits for the base tl? last i saw was 4. did it go over 10? is november still the date for receiving the full kit?
There is one main obstacle we have to get over with the auto to make it live and it's true with any manufacturer.
As you increase throttle, the main line pressure (hydraulic pressure) goes up with throttle. With the turbo, you need a much more rapid rise of line pressure in the trans to match the rapid hp gain. By 1/3 throttle you need the stock full throttle line pressure and by wide open you need somewhere in the neighborhood of 200% of the stock line pressure. This is almost directly related to the holding power of the clutches and this is what will prevent them from slipping.
I will be experimenting with this but I had a few major personal setbacks. I'm hoping to go the electronic route of boosting pressure but I haven't gotten far enough into it so see if it's possible. There are different fluids, Ford Type F specifically which will provide more holding power but it can also eat the clutches. I don't mind experimenting with mine because I can rebuild it myself for $200 but I absolutely don't recommend putting that fluid in anyone else's until we see what it will do.
I will make this thing work, it's just a matter of getting the time to research it.
An option for you is that you can adjust the wastegate for less boost and more lag. I know artificial lag is not what you want but it will make things easier on the transmission for now and it won't be any worse than the supercharger that everyone lives with.
If it comes down to it I'm sure we can get some "Alto Reds" clutch packs made for it. An expensive alternative but it's the right way to do it.
There's always the chance that once we get the clutches to hold, a hard part failure could be next, don't know until we do it. But I have ties to companies that can strengthen stock parts or if there's enough interest, produce billet parts.
I know this sounds like a lot but it's no worse than 90% of the other brands when you double the hp. It's part of the hotrodding game.
But to conclude, most of the auto trans behind the supercharged engines held just fine at the 300whp level. I wouldn't let the auto stop me from getting the turbo kit. At a minimum, keep the boost reasonable, run some Dextron III or synthetic equivilent, maybe a frankenstein mix of one quart type F (amsoil makes a syn version) and the rest DexIII and run the largest cooler you can fit on the car. And one last thing, change out the 3rd and 4th gear sensors before adding boost.
If the car is kept on street tire, 1st and 2nd should be no problem. Slippage or breakage will likely occur in 3rd-5th.
10-07-2009, 08:42 AM
#2171
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
^ You doing okay IHC? major personal setbacks doesn't sound very good.
10-07-2009, 01:22 PM
#2172
You know my opinion of course, a turbo with an auto is a match made in heaven.
There is one main obstacle we have to get over with the auto to make it live and it's true with any manufacturer.
As you increase throttle, the main line pressure (hydraulic pressure) goes up with throttle. With the turbo, you need a much more rapid rise of line pressure in the trans to match the rapid hp gain. By 1/3 throttle you need the stock full throttle line pressure and by wide open you need somewhere in the neighborhood of 200% of the stock line pressure. This is almost directly related to the holding power of the clutches and this is what will prevent them from slipping.
I will be experimenting with this but I had a few major personal setbacks. I'm hoping to go the electronic route of boosting pressure but I haven't gotten far enough into it so see if it's possible. There are different fluids, Ford Type F specifically which will provide more holding power but it can also eat the clutches. I don't mind experimenting with mine because I can rebuild it myself for $200 but I absolutely don't recommend putting that fluid in anyone else's until we see what it will do.
I will make this thing work, it's just a matter of getting the time to research it.
An option for you is that you can adjust the wastegate for less boost and more lag. I know artificial lag is not what you want but it will make things easier on the transmission for now and it won't be any worse than the supercharger that everyone lives with.
If it comes down to it I'm sure we can get some "Alto Reds" clutch packs made for it. An expensive alternative but it's the right way to do it.
There's always the chance that once we get the clutches to hold, a hard part failure could be next, don't know until we do it. But I have ties to companies that can strengthen stock parts or if there's enough interest, produce billet parts.
I know this sounds like a lot but it's no worse than 90% of the other brands when you double the hp. It's part of the hotrodding game.
But to conclude, most of the auto trans behind the supercharged engines held just fine at the 300whp level. I wouldn't let the auto stop me from getting the turbo kit. At a minimum, keep the boost reasonable, run some Dextron III or synthetic equivilent, maybe a frankenstein mix of one quart type F (amsoil makes a syn version) and the rest DexIII and run the largest cooler you can fit on the car. And one last thing, change out the 3rd and 4th gear sensors before adding boost.
If the car is kept on street tire, 1st and 2nd should be no problem. Slippage or breakage will likely occur in 3rd-5th.
There is one main obstacle we have to get over with the auto to make it live and it's true with any manufacturer.
As you increase throttle, the main line pressure (hydraulic pressure) goes up with throttle. With the turbo, you need a much more rapid rise of line pressure in the trans to match the rapid hp gain. By 1/3 throttle you need the stock full throttle line pressure and by wide open you need somewhere in the neighborhood of 200% of the stock line pressure. This is almost directly related to the holding power of the clutches and this is what will prevent them from slipping.
I will be experimenting with this but I had a few major personal setbacks. I'm hoping to go the electronic route of boosting pressure but I haven't gotten far enough into it so see if it's possible. There are different fluids, Ford Type F specifically which will provide more holding power but it can also eat the clutches. I don't mind experimenting with mine because I can rebuild it myself for $200 but I absolutely don't recommend putting that fluid in anyone else's until we see what it will do.
I will make this thing work, it's just a matter of getting the time to research it.
An option for you is that you can adjust the wastegate for less boost and more lag. I know artificial lag is not what you want but it will make things easier on the transmission for now and it won't be any worse than the supercharger that everyone lives with.
If it comes down to it I'm sure we can get some "Alto Reds" clutch packs made for it. An expensive alternative but it's the right way to do it.
There's always the chance that once we get the clutches to hold, a hard part failure could be next, don't know until we do it. But I have ties to companies that can strengthen stock parts or if there's enough interest, produce billet parts.
I know this sounds like a lot but it's no worse than 90% of the other brands when you double the hp. It's part of the hotrodding game.
But to conclude, most of the auto trans behind the supercharged engines held just fine at the 300whp level. I wouldn't let the auto stop me from getting the turbo kit. At a minimum, keep the boost reasonable, run some Dextron III or synthetic equivilent, maybe a frankenstein mix of one quart type F (amsoil makes a syn version) and the rest DexIII and run the largest cooler you can fit on the car. And one last thing, change out the 3rd and 4th gear sensors before adding boost.
If the car is kept on street tire, 1st and 2nd should be no problem. Slippage or breakage will likely occur in 3rd-5th.
Do you mean to replace them with new OEM sensors? Also any suggestions on a trans cooler? Which one are you running?
10-07-2009, 02:46 PM
#2173
Team Owner
Best friend and Grand National racing buddy for many, many years passed unexpectedly. In fact it's this car that I've posted before.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvA-qkRZWag
Just trying to tie up loose ends and make sure his 7 month old daughter is taken care of for life.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvA-qkRZWag
Just trying to tie up loose ends and make sure his 7 month old daughter is taken care of for life.
10-07-2009, 02:47 PM
#2174
Team Owner
Biggest stacked plate cooler (B&M style) that you can fit. Summit and Jegs have good deals. Something like the 13x11x1.5" will do all the cooling you could ever need.
10-07-2009, 02:53 PM
#2175
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
My condolences Matt.. You're a good guy so I'm sure your buddy must have been a good guy as well. May your friend rest in peace, my thoughts & prayers go to his family and friends as well. Stay strong for them.
10-07-2009, 04:16 PM
#2176
You know my opinion of course, a turbo with an auto is a match made in heaven.
There is one main obstacle we have to get over with the auto to make it live and it's true with any manufacturer.
As you increase throttle, the main line pressure (hydraulic pressure) goes up with throttle. With the turbo, you need a much more rapid rise of line pressure in the trans to match the rapid hp gain. By 1/3 throttle you need the stock full throttle line pressure and by wide open you need somewhere in the neighborhood of 200% of the stock line pressure. This is almost directly related to the holding power of the clutches and this is what will prevent them from slipping.
I will be experimenting with this but I had a few major personal setbacks. I'm hoping to go the electronic route of boosting pressure but I haven't gotten far enough into it so see if it's possible. There are different fluids, Ford Type F specifically which will provide more holding power but it can also eat the clutches. I don't mind experimenting with mine because I can rebuild it myself for $200 but I absolutely don't recommend putting that fluid in anyone else's until we see what it will do.
I will make this thing work, it's just a matter of getting the time to research it.
An option for you is that you can adjust the wastegate for less boost and more lag. I know artificial lag is not what you want but it will make things easier on the transmission for now and it won't be any worse than the supercharger that everyone lives with.
If it comes down to it I'm sure we can get some "Alto Reds" clutch packs made for it. An expensive alternative but it's the right way to do it.
There's always the chance that once we get the clutches to hold, a hard part failure could be next, don't know until we do it. But I have ties to companies that can strengthen stock parts or if there's enough interest, produce billet parts.
I know this sounds like a lot but it's no worse than 90% of the other brands when you double the hp. It's part of the hotrodding game.
But to conclude, most of the auto trans behind the supercharged engines held just fine at the 300whp level. I wouldn't let the auto stop me from getting the turbo kit. At a minimum, keep the boost reasonable, run some Dextron III or synthetic equivilent, maybe a frankenstein mix of one quart type F (amsoil makes a syn version) and the rest DexIII and run the largest cooler you can fit on the car. And one last thing, change out the 3rd and 4th gear sensors before adding boost.
If the car is kept on street tire, 1st and 2nd should be no problem. Slippage or breakage will likely occur in 3rd-5th.
There is one main obstacle we have to get over with the auto to make it live and it's true with any manufacturer.
As you increase throttle, the main line pressure (hydraulic pressure) goes up with throttle. With the turbo, you need a much more rapid rise of line pressure in the trans to match the rapid hp gain. By 1/3 throttle you need the stock full throttle line pressure and by wide open you need somewhere in the neighborhood of 200% of the stock line pressure. This is almost directly related to the holding power of the clutches and this is what will prevent them from slipping.
I will be experimenting with this but I had a few major personal setbacks. I'm hoping to go the electronic route of boosting pressure but I haven't gotten far enough into it so see if it's possible. There are different fluids, Ford Type F specifically which will provide more holding power but it can also eat the clutches. I don't mind experimenting with mine because I can rebuild it myself for $200 but I absolutely don't recommend putting that fluid in anyone else's until we see what it will do.
I will make this thing work, it's just a matter of getting the time to research it.
An option for you is that you can adjust the wastegate for less boost and more lag. I know artificial lag is not what you want but it will make things easier on the transmission for now and it won't be any worse than the supercharger that everyone lives with.
If it comes down to it I'm sure we can get some "Alto Reds" clutch packs made for it. An expensive alternative but it's the right way to do it.
There's always the chance that once we get the clutches to hold, a hard part failure could be next, don't know until we do it. But I have ties to companies that can strengthen stock parts or if there's enough interest, produce billet parts.
I know this sounds like a lot but it's no worse than 90% of the other brands when you double the hp. It's part of the hotrodding game.
But to conclude, most of the auto trans behind the supercharged engines held just fine at the 300whp level. I wouldn't let the auto stop me from getting the turbo kit. At a minimum, keep the boost reasonable, run some Dextron III or synthetic equivilent, maybe a frankenstein mix of one quart type F (amsoil makes a syn version) and the rest DexIII and run the largest cooler you can fit on the car. And one last thing, change out the 3rd and 4th gear sensors before adding boost.
If the car is kept on street tire, 1st and 2nd should be no problem. Slippage or breakage will likely occur in 3rd-5th.
i guess i just have to take a chance and see what happens. what would you consider "reasonable" as far as boost goes for the tl? i see they are offering the kit tuned to 370whp. iiirc that was around 6-7psi. if the boost is lowered then it has to be re-tuned again correct? my plan was to leave the boost at the level its prefabricated to and drive a few thousand miles and see what happens. this is my DD so i do a lot of miles and reliability is my main concern
i think this cooler would be good enough
http://www.summitracing.com/parts.aspx?sku=BMM-70274
it doesnt include any installation parts. only the smaller model has the hoses, clamps etc. where do i get all that stuff?
rodney, i read that you are using the electronic aem tru boost controller to control boost. is that included in the kit as well?
10-07-2009, 10:04 PM
#2178
Team Owner
Originally Posted by Majofo 
My condolences Matt.. You're a good guy so I'm sure your buddy must have been a good guy as well. May your friend rest in peace, my thoughts & prayers go to his family and friends as well. Stay strong for them.
KN_TL
Same here. You appear to be passionate about everything you do. I am sure his family is in good hands. My condolences, thoughts and prayers are with you all.
Thank you guys. You have no idea how much that means. Really, it does. I know I come across as harsh on here sometimes but I'm a softie in real life. Things are starting to get back to normal and I'm sure I'll turn to the cars to get my mind off of things like always.
Again, thanks so much for the prayers and kind words.
My condolences Matt.. You're a good guy so I'm sure your buddy must have been a good guy as well. May your friend rest in peace, my thoughts & prayers go to his family and friends as well. Stay strong for them.
KN_TL
Same here. You appear to be passionate about everything you do. I am sure his family is in good hands. My condolences, thoughts and prayers are with you all.
Thank you guys. You have no idea how much that means. Really, it does. I know I come across as harsh on here sometimes but I'm a softie in real life. Things are starting to get back to normal and I'm sure I'll turn to the cars to get my mind off of things like always.
Again, thanks so much for the prayers and kind words.
10-07-2009, 10:25 PM
#2179
Team Owner
great info thanks. i changed the 3rd and 4th gear sensors a few months ago but i didnt notice any change in the way it shifts. i didnt have rough/harsh shifts before the change anyway. IHC, i see you like red line for oil, how about their red line synthetic d4 dexron III? and for the type F some amsoil super shift?
i guess i just have to take a chance and see what happens. what would you consider "reasonable" as far as boost goes for the tl? i see they are offering the kit tuned to 370whp. iiirc that was around 6-7psi. if the boost is lowered then it has to be re-tuned again correct? my plan was to leave the boost at the level its prefabricated to and drive a few thousand miles and see what happens. this is my DD so i do a lot of miles and reliability is my main concern
i think this cooler would be good enough
http://www.summitracing.com/parts.aspx?sku=BMM-70274
it doesnt include any installation parts. only the smaller model has the hoses, clamps etc. where do i get all that stuff?
rodney, i read that you are using the electronic aem tru boost controller to control boost. is that included in the kit as well?
i guess i just have to take a chance and see what happens. what would you consider "reasonable" as far as boost goes for the tl? i see they are offering the kit tuned to 370whp. iiirc that was around 6-7psi. if the boost is lowered then it has to be re-tuned again correct? my plan was to leave the boost at the level its prefabricated to and drive a few thousand miles and see what happens. this is my DD so i do a lot of miles and reliability is my main concern
i think this cooler would be good enough
http://www.summitracing.com/parts.aspx?sku=BMM-70274
it doesnt include any installation parts. only the smaller model has the hoses, clamps etc. where do i get all that stuff?
rodney, i read that you are using the electronic aem tru boost controller to control boost. is that included in the kit as well?
Get the hose clamps at any auto parts store. "Fuel Injection" hose clamps are the best. They have a small 8mm bolt head instead of the worm gear and provide higher and more even clamping force. Double them up at every joint. Hose designed for transmission fluid is preferred but I've gotten away with high quality Goodyear fuel injection hose for the past two years. I check periodically to make sure the hose hasn't gotten any soft spots. Pressure is not a problem, the circuit rarely sees more than 50psi, it's the hose compatibility with fluid that would be the only concern.
The cooler fittings should be available from Summit too. On the cooler info it says 1/2" NPT (national pipe tapered). Just look for a fitting that's 1/2" NPT on one end and 3/8" hose barb on the other. You'll have a choice of different angles and such to make the installation cleaner but I wouldn't go with more than a 45 degree bend.
I've been wanting to try the D4 for a while now. Once the next service interval comes up I'm going to try but I can't comment on the performance yet. A Dex III fluid will have less friction modifiers so it should have more clutch holding power with the trade off being slightly harder shifts which may or may not be noticable.
The Type-F has no friction modifiers and if it were run straight, the shifts would be very firm. There's a chance it could damage the high energy type clutches the TL runs, that's why I can't recommend it until I try it. A 20% or less mixture *should* be safe but do it at your own risk.
With the way a turbo works, in normal driving you could be cruising along and right after an upshift feed it some throttle at just the right time, load it down good and you may hit nearly full boost and torque at less than half throttle under the right conditions. It's high torque spikes with low throttle openings like this that tend to make transmissions slip. The computer sees that you're only at half throttle or below but you've got 400lbs of torque going through the trans and the computer is not commanding enough line pressure to keep the clutches from slipping. Hope this makes sense, I'm a little scatterbrained right now. I'll try again in the morning when my head is a little clearer.
So for starters, do the DexIII swap of whatever good synthetic you choose, install the cooler, and pay close attention to the way it shifts before the turbo. Once you add boost, pay attention. As long as the rpms aren't flaring and the shifts are quick and crisp, you're not hurting anything. It's when it starts sliding into gear and taking a second or more to make the shift that you're hurting things. Keep a close eye no the fluid condition and wipe the dipstick with a white paper towel to look for clutch material.
With an auto of any model, you want to balance it between wear and breakage. A very firm shift will break parts but have very little wear on clutches. A soft shift will be easy on hard parts but wear the clutches quicker. An old saying is the best shift is the one you can't say anything about.
10-08-2009, 12:22 AM
#2181
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Thank you guys. You have no idea how much that means. Really, it does. I know I come across as harsh on here sometimes but I'm a softie in real life. Things are starting to get back to normal and I'm sure I'll turn to the cars to get my mind off of things like always.
Again, thanks so much for the prayers and kind words.
Again, thanks so much for the prayers and kind words.
Last edited by Majofo; 10-08-2009 at 12:25 AM.
10-08-2009, 03:00 AM
#2184
jump on the type s bandwagon and give them a deposit
10-08-2009, 03:14 AM
#2185
That's the exact style of cooler. 11x11x1.5 is a great size, it should take anything you can throw at it. When you go to run the lines, make sure you use at least 3/8". I believe there's a popular metric size that's a hair smaller diameter but it may become a restriction with the 6' or so total hose lengths.
Get the hose clamps at any auto parts store. "Fuel Injection" hose clamps are the best. They have a small 8mm bolt head instead of the worm gear and provide higher and more even clamping force. Double them up at every joint. Hose designed for transmission fluid is preferred but I've gotten away with high quality Goodyear fuel injection hose for the past two years. I check periodically to make sure the hose hasn't gotten any soft spots. Pressure is not a problem, the circuit rarely sees more than 50psi, it's the hose compatibility with fluid that would be the only concern.
The cooler fittings should be available from Summit too. On the cooler info it says 1/2" NPT (national pipe tapered). Just look for a fitting that's 1/2" NPT on one end and 3/8" hose barb on the other. You'll have a choice of different angles and such to make the installation cleaner but I wouldn't go with more than a 45 degree bend.
I've been wanting to try the D4 for a while now. Once the next service interval comes up I'm going to try but I can't comment on the performance yet. A Dex III fluid will have less friction modifiers so it should have more clutch holding power with the trade off being slightly harder shifts which may or may not be noticable.
The Type-F has no friction modifiers and if it were run straight, the shifts would be very firm. There's a chance it could damage the high energy type clutches the TL runs, that's why I can't recommend it until I try it. A 20% or less mixture *should* be safe but do it at your own risk.
With the way a turbo works, in normal driving you could be cruising along and right after an upshift feed it some throttle at just the right time, load it down good and you may hit nearly full boost and torque at less than half throttle under the right conditions. It's high torque spikes with low throttle openings like this that tend to make transmissions slip. The computer sees that you're only at half throttle or below but you've got 400lbs of torque going through the trans and the computer is not commanding enough line pressure to keep the clutches from slipping. Hope this makes sense, I'm a little scatterbrained right now. I'll try again in the morning when my head is a little clearer.
So for starters, do the DexIII swap of whatever good synthetic you choose, install the cooler, and pay close attention to the way it shifts before the turbo. Once you add boost, pay attention. As long as the rpms aren't flaring and the shifts are quick and crisp, you're not hurting anything. It's when it starts sliding into gear and taking a second or more to make the shift that you're hurting things. Keep a close eye no the fluid condition and wipe the dipstick with a white paper towel to look for clutch material.
With an auto of any model, you want to balance it between wear and breakage. A very firm shift will break parts but have very little wear on clutches. A soft shift will be easy on hard parts but wear the clutches quicker. An old saying is the best shift is the one you can't say anything about.
Get the hose clamps at any auto parts store. "Fuel Injection" hose clamps are the best. They have a small 8mm bolt head instead of the worm gear and provide higher and more even clamping force. Double them up at every joint. Hose designed for transmission fluid is preferred but I've gotten away with high quality Goodyear fuel injection hose for the past two years. I check periodically to make sure the hose hasn't gotten any soft spots. Pressure is not a problem, the circuit rarely sees more than 50psi, it's the hose compatibility with fluid that would be the only concern.
The cooler fittings should be available from Summit too. On the cooler info it says 1/2" NPT (national pipe tapered). Just look for a fitting that's 1/2" NPT on one end and 3/8" hose barb on the other. You'll have a choice of different angles and such to make the installation cleaner but I wouldn't go with more than a 45 degree bend.
I've been wanting to try the D4 for a while now. Once the next service interval comes up I'm going to try but I can't comment on the performance yet. A Dex III fluid will have less friction modifiers so it should have more clutch holding power with the trade off being slightly harder shifts which may or may not be noticable.
The Type-F has no friction modifiers and if it were run straight, the shifts would be very firm. There's a chance it could damage the high energy type clutches the TL runs, that's why I can't recommend it until I try it. A 20% or less mixture *should* be safe but do it at your own risk.
With the way a turbo works, in normal driving you could be cruising along and right after an upshift feed it some throttle at just the right time, load it down good and you may hit nearly full boost and torque at less than half throttle under the right conditions. It's high torque spikes with low throttle openings like this that tend to make transmissions slip. The computer sees that you're only at half throttle or below but you've got 400lbs of torque going through the trans and the computer is not commanding enough line pressure to keep the clutches from slipping. Hope this makes sense, I'm a little scatterbrained right now. I'll try again in the morning when my head is a little clearer.
So for starters, do the DexIII swap of whatever good synthetic you choose, install the cooler, and pay close attention to the way it shifts before the turbo. Once you add boost, pay attention. As long as the rpms aren't flaring and the shifts are quick and crisp, you're not hurting anything. It's when it starts sliding into gear and taking a second or more to make the shift that you're hurting things. Keep a close eye no the fluid condition and wipe the dipstick with a white paper towel to look for clutch material.
With an auto of any model, you want to balance it between wear and breakage. A very firm shift will break parts but have very little wear on clutches. A soft shift will be easy on hard parts but wear the clutches quicker. An old saying is the best shift is the one you can't say anything about.
anyone know if there is a DIY for the tranny cooler??? i would like to get this mod going asap along with the fluid upgrade to see how things go before the turbo install
IHC, if you ever figure out a way to increase line pressure in the auto tranny like you were saying, ill paypal you some money for your time spent lol (but serious)
on another note, ive found 2 reputable performance shops on long island that said they can do the install.
http://www.rpmnyc.com/intro.html and
http://www.nrgtechracing.com/main.htm
has anyone dealt with these shops before? ive read great reviews online and im currently waiting on phone calls back for pricing.
however, i know JandR is promoting this kit as a DIY but honestly i think this may be out of my league. ive done most of my maintenance myself along with a lot of other things but installing a turbo seems like a whole new level. is this a project that can really be done without the help of professionals? i know its hard to say without knowing how much technical knowledge i have but what do you guys think? for the people getting this kit, are you installing it yourself?
10-08-2009, 09:03 AM
#2188
My condolences go out to you IHC. I know what you're probably going through, because (almost 2 years ago now) my brother passed away very unexpectedly. The best thing to do is what majofo said - remember the good times. It's great that you're there for his family. I'm sure they appreciate it more than you know. My best advice is DON'T work on cars now, cause you won't be focused.....at least I know that's how I was. I'll keep you and his family in my thoughts/prayers. It's not weak showing emotion either.....and anybody that says it is doesn't know what it's like to go through.
10-09-2009, 09:53 AM
#2193
takin care of Business in
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sorry about your loss dude.....may his soul 
....
chin up dude.....be strong, you have more responsibilities now !!!!
....chin up dude.....be strong, you have more responsibilities now !!!!
10-10-2009, 08:26 PM
#2194
Burning Brakes
been of the forum for a little bit but first to ihc rest in peace to your friend may god bless his soul and give you strength to help out with his daughter and steer her in the right direction, next i have bunch of pm to answer .....to date as i mentioned we are behind time but i will have an update by tuesday on earliest release date..
10-11-2009, 04:20 AM
#2197
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Off the ramble, Rabbit is one of the few cars I've driven stick ('08 Rabbit, '86 Scirocco 16v, '68 Stingray) and that car is by FAR easily the best bang for your buck vehicle you can get your hands on. I still find little features here and there in my buddies rabbit that he didn't even know about. And it out performs my TSX in every way imaginable. Boy can that 5cyl do work. God I want a rabbit
Last edited by meeps; 10-11-2009 at 04:24 AM.
10-11-2009, 03:15 PM
#2198
Team Owner
Thank you guys so much for the thoughts and prayers. You have no idea how much it helps. I've been avoiding this thread for a while. His daughter's college is taken care of. We did a video with all of the friends and family sharing memories and letting the daughter know how much she meant to her dad for her to see when she's older. He would be the first one talking crap about me moping over this so lets get this turbo project underway!
10-11-2009, 04:43 PM
#2199
Your Friendly Canadian
Join Date: Dec 2007
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