pass427

any idea how much these go for

NVA-AV6

About $1200 a set, yeah pricey, but will hold up to whatever you throw at them short of oil starvation.

pass427

Nice no more waiting now the most expensive part is getting this thing sleeved , I see u already did yours how is it coming along or is it done

Opel

why are u bothering with getting it sleeved? how much larger u think u can go? youre gonna bore the block to where its gonna affect cooling, the sleeve walls are already thin enough...3.2 is fine..if anything change the crank and make it 3.5.
the forged rods (even though stock rods are fine) is fine to do...get 8.5:1 compression forged pistons, arp head bolts and boost the living shit out of it...ull make more power than you can handle

TL|GTX

for some reason im really happy now lol

pass427

I think a goal of 650+ will require stronger sleeves at that power level and stock sleeves your just gambling with all that money u spent in pistons rods valvetrain when that sleeve gives out ...

Schu

are the cranks different or are the rod lengths different?

NVA-AV6

^Both.

Tripnbeats

im wondering about the valves guys....the stick n auto have different valves....or so they make it seem like they do. if u check the prices for the manual motor n the auto motor on valve assemblies....the prices double for the stick model. what so different ?

Opel

^^manual guys are most likely to need them lol, so thats how they make their money...all it takes is a misshift, and there goes ur valves.

Opel

i thought u were looking just to get more displacement

Tripnbeats

LOL OPEL i didnt think of that. good one

gshotpapi

has the testing begun for tl-s yet? just wondering... Im waiting patiently.

TLabuser

Also wondering how is the TL-S testing coming along?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

This is from the deposit thread.

pass427

Well guys how's everyone ? We haven't been posting much but we haven't stop working either , when we started this kit we promised to make it one of the best and so far we have been striving to do just that , we had a couple of suggestion to put things into the kit from various people , but IHc suggested a knock gauge ( thanks Ihc we value your opinion can't wait til you're ready for your kit I'll actually cover most of the cost so I can give to you at a big big discounted price for all your help and valuable suggestion). Were a little behind schedule but for all the right reasons ,we actually managed to get a knock monitoring box made which arrives Friday for testing, yes you read right we actually went out and got a revised unit to monitor knock with retard ability , if all goes well in testing .Anyone worring about blown motor wouldn't have to worry but well keep you updated next week....

Opel

thats a big step up...keep it up bud

Inaccurate

Wow Rodney! I am impressed. Damn good work on several fronts.

I think that you are making some smart decisions. Very smart to include that knock sensor. I hope that this addition will encourage people to get this kit because that knock sensor should alleviate many reliability concerns, as IHC and Opel have educated us on this topic.

I am thrilled to see that you took my suggestion to offer IHC a huge discount. I really do think that this offer to IHC is an investment on your part, and not lost money.

IHC - Please reconsider to keep your TL as a daily driver. As we both know, the true challenge is to have a high hp car as a daily driver. But, I do recommend having that VW Rabbit as a spare, ready to be called into action at a moment's notice.

Inaccurate

Here is another suggestion for the "suggestion box" -

Offer a R&D discount to Opel too. That cat knows his stuff and isn't afraid to push the limits.

HQTL6SPD

^Opel has a SC and some credible internal mods done (I'll leave up to him to share), I went for a ride once and his car pulls HARD!

Inaccurate

There. Fixed it for ya.

phee

iTrader: (5)

Silva-type-s

iTrader: (3)

ok folks. For those of u who were victim to the poor videos I posted of rodneys street mischief/ testing, I have a new camera for the October 4th event. Rodney and I will be doing a few street pulls (nothing too serious cuz I'm sure rodney wants the car preserved for the track) and if all goes as planned, we'llrun each other on the track. My headers and p2r intake should be installed by then (not that it will help but rodney wants a comparison to stock) I expect to get WALKED!!!!!!!! On again like he did in the street video we shot it was a good 2 container lenghts the last time so it might be more now we're on the track. Vies should be posted october 4th or 5th.

Rondey call me I need my ticket

I hate cars

That's incredibly generous of you and I would probably accept if you guys were turning out more kits but I'll pay the full price. Besides, I'll probably end up being annoying as I'm going to need a couple specific things for the planned boost and hp level.

You guys are really putting the TL on the map. First with the turbo and now the correct way of tuning and monitoring. I can't say enough about what you guys are doing for this community. Many people might not realize just how big this is but they will soon.

I hate cars

Isn't that the truth. It's one thing to have a track car, another thing to have a fast daily driver. The TL may remain the daily but I'm accepting the fact that I'm going to hurt the auto trans quickly. I've started in my research to line pressure mods and I've got the torque convertor guy willing to restall it to a higher stall speed for free as long as I mention his name on here. I was going to start off with a bone stock transmission and see how long it will last but we know at stock line pressures it will fail quickly. So I'm going to start by jacking the line pressure before the turbo install. I have a good electronics guy and we're going to try and do it electronically first, most likely a variable resistor controlled by a map sensor based on boost level.

There's a lot of R&D to do on the auto. There's the option to use a non friction modified Type F fluid but I'm not sure if it's compatable with the clutches yet. What I'm trying to do is offer something that can be sold with the turbo kit for a very small price. A fluid and a resistor similar to the Sprint booster only for line pressure and priced reasonably.

Thank you for your support. Between you, me, Rodney, and Opel I think the Hp race is on and no matter who comes out on top, we're going to see some exciting things over the next year or so. You know you're going to do the turbo lol. On low boost it should be faster or the same as the stock weight cars at high boost and you should be able to get off the line much quicker than us.

NVA-AV6

For those who are interested, I had the oppertunity to compare Weisco's flat top K24/K20 hybrid pistons against J pistons, although Weisco does not make them in 89mm bore, CP does. These pistons yield 11.5:1 compression in the K hybrid engine, but when compared to a J35A4 10:1 compression piston they are dead on. I have order a 89mm bore set with coating and 9130 wrist pins and should be in next week. This would give us a off the shelf piston solution more than capable of handeling our boost applications.

lusid

IHC - what's your day job? I ask this only due to your vast knowledge in cars.

I hate cars

Communications...

I worked as a transmission rebuilder back when I was 17-21 though. The knowlege comes from blowing my junk up a couple times a year and trying to learn from it. The drive was being a 17 yr old kid giving the 45 yr olds with large V8 hotrods nervous breakdowns with my 6 banger.

NVA-AV6

IHC, is there the room to shove a 4.3L V6 block in your GN? The 3.8L Block and rotating assembly is nice, but think what you could do being able to use 350 rods and pistons, not to mention being able to conver the block to 6 bolt mains.

I hate cars

Room, yes. The Buick 3.8L is a far superior block. Deep skirt, thick cylinder walls, recessed head bolt holes, thick deck, and the rods are the same used in the Buick big blocks. Pistons look like something that would come out of a diesel with a full skirt and steel reinforcements around the pin area. It's a very stout combo in stock form.

Now if we're talking about a built bottom end, the Chevy stuff is always going to be cheaper. In stock form, the turbo 4.3L was only good for about 400hp before it started puking parts, namely the rods.

One thing I did was run the Buick 4.1L block. It's identical to the 3.8L except for the larger bore. I had it bored .035 so it's a 4" bore and will accept common Chevy and Ford pistons. It knocked the piston price down by about 45%.

Where I'm at now is pushing about 700hp at the crank on a girdled 2 bolt main block and a stockish rotating assembly. Everything is at it's limit. There's a company right now that makes aluminum blocks and it's looking like I may be able to get close to 5.0L out of it. This is my next project.

NVA-AV6

Anyone making stroker kits? Is the 5L all bore are is there also crank rod work in there as well? I know our crank/rod rotation on these J blocks are about maxed at 96MM stroke but I would imagine there is more room in those blocks.

I hate cars

The stock block 3.8L will accept a stroker to take it to 250 (4.1L) cubes from 231. My father's stage II 4.1 block is maxed out with the longest stroke that will fit, taking it to 276" or 4.5L. The aluminum block with some work can accept a larger bore with the 5/8" stroker crank giving it somewhere in the neighborhood of 290ish cubes.

I went with the larger bore of the 4.1 block instead of installing a stroker crank in the 3.8 because I can run larger valves with the larger bore.

I'm only interested in the better drivability of the larger engine, the power is fairly easy to make. It's just that you can go milder on the cam and the turbo will spool quicker making it a better DD.

NVA-AV6

Have you thought about doing a twin snail system, that should help the spool times....

I hate cars

Nah. Twins hurt spool time. They're good for roadracing and such because power delivery is more linear and soft. A large single will spool quicker and hit much harder.

NVA-AV6

Not twins as in one per back, but setup seqentually like BMW and others are now doing where you have a smaller snail the will spool all the way down at 1K-1.5K that then is used to get you to the larger snail that you have to get above 3K to get to spool.

I hate cars

It's a great concept but too hard to do without factory programming. I mean, I'm sure you could if you worked hard enough but the gains aren't really worth the trouble.

With the latest technology from the last 5 years, lag is almost a thing of the past. Mine spools like factory on the GN with a turbo capable of 850hp. That was unheard of 10 years ago. I can hit full boost at the convertor stall speed of 2,800rpm. No telling how low down it would go if the convertor had a lower stall. It's very similar to the 335 in spool time.

The other thing is, a TL would not withstand full boost that low in the rpm band. It's just too much cylinder pressure for a stock bottom end. It takes more timing retard that low in the rpm range than normal and things like the rod bearings aren't meant for it, at least not on a 20wt oil. It's nothing against the TL, I doubt most cars could take it.

I've been meaning to ask you, there was a thread over on bobistheoilguy with a quote from a well known Honda engine builder. I couldn't remember your name to know if it was you or not.

Opel

oh wow, man, thats something...im speechless, but i can say that i really appreciate the word of confidence..

Rodney has done some terrific work with this whole project and has worked hard at perfecting it while not ignoring suggestions and info thrown at him. I hope his true dedication, to all this pays off at one point, and to really have that happen, we need to see people getting this kit.

He's done nothing but improved it in every way...used the best stuff and done it right the first time...and the addition of the knock monitor with retard timing is just exellent and would put many other kits well below it.

like IHC said, more ppl need to get this kit, so Rodney can invest in more R&D and maybe offer the kit at different stages as well. But after all is said, i think a kit going towards IHC and being that he has an Auto TL, Im confident that he will get to the bottom of this application on the auto 3Gs, and come up with a solution to enable the ATs to handle more power for all the AT 3G members...

and to Rodney, I just wanna remind him that such move, and a shot at working together with IHC is one of the best things he's done about this application, and he wont regret it

NVA-AV6

Not sure if it was me or not, but I don't run 5W20 in any of my honda engines, it tends to leave you with only 7-9PSI of oil pressure at idle at full op temp, wayyy too low for my tastes, now running a 10W-30 in the same engine yeilds 15-17PSI, much better. I have had several engines that I have torn down that the owners ran nothing but synthetic 0W or 5W , all of these engines show extream cylinder wear and rod bearing wear for the miles that were on these engines.

Now as far a boost early on these engines, yeah in stock form you will fold the rods in no time.

I hate cars

I think that was you. Look at this...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...gonew=1#UNREAD

I think everyone missed the last line in the quote. It's a tough crowd over there and they think 0w-20 is the best thing to ever come out so if you say anything negative, be prepared as I have.

It would be interesting to hear your teardown results. In fact, I'm very interested in what you've found on stock J32s on a 20wt. I've had mine on a 30wt since it's first oil change. I've never torn into one so real world experience would be a nice change from all the theories over there.

Silva-type-s

iTrader: (3)

^ they should change your user name to "knowledge". You have consistently proven that your user name is the real definition of sarcasm or irony.

Ive been helping my uncle built his car part time for some time now and almost every point you make is like another chapter in "engines for dummy's". I though i knew my stuff but obviously its not enough.