I hate cars

Nah, it's tapped out for all it's worth. 2 bolt mains, stock flimsy crank and rods. It's a ticking timebomb. I can make more power easily but it will end up scattered all over the street. I think a TL with pistons and 500lbs weight reduction will outdo me from a roll. Nothing but love for the TL though.

I hate cars

Forgot, I think 9.90s are possible with the additional 300lbs taken off and 150 more hp than it made running 10.60s. Still, technology marches on. My car was the epitome of technology for many years but time marches on.

FWIW, Roger (triod) from here saw the "fast" bottom 9 second GN and I think he was surprised how stock it looked.

Opel

well, i meant hidden power from a rebuild lol.... btw, did you know the TL uses 4 bolt mains? lol 2 from the side.
idk why, but i have a lot of faith on the bottom end...with lowered compression, and some ARP head bolts...a lot of power's possible....but of course we know at this point, the tranny is a weak fuse, unless the plan is to just sit still and spin all day.

i love the car, i love the looks, the sharp nose and the high trunk...slammed they look extremely sleek...my biggest wish has been that it was a RWD

I hate cars

I love the same things you do. I admit, with the exception of the pistons (mine will go bottom 10s) the TL has the better bottom end.

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Is it possible to change our TL's to FWD to RWD. Of course you'll need loads of money, but how much are we talking about and what would we need.

Opel

i gotta agree lol...so now with the forged pistons, i might have the complete better botom end lol...i honestly didnt like the rod cap bolts...so freaking small, they were like 8-10 mm, i forgot...but i remember torque spec was 14 lbs...they had to be the tiniest...otherwise...everything else looks pretty good in there

Opel

yes it is possible...however that's most likely not something that anyone would be willing to shell money for...it would be pretty freaking expensive... but for someone dedicated and has the place to work with it...it can be done... i would do it if i had my own place. biggest problem is fitting a tranny underneath, without having to raise the car to a truck height lol... i would retrofit an S2K tranny...there wont be a direct fit, but fab an adapter plate. or even find another tranny from another car thats close enough.. its a big project, but its possble.

I hate cars

ARP my friend. Mine are only 12mm heads.

Drunk post FTW.

NVA-AV6

The 14 lb tourqe is only to seat the ends and bearings evenly, the real tourqe is from the 90D turn you do after the 14lb tourqe, please don't forget to do the 90D angle on the bolts, it won't be pretty if you don't do it.....

Opel

nah, i know the extra turn after the 14 lbs, lol, point was, they're just tiny lol

NVA-AV6

Believe it or not they are the same diameter as used by Ferrari, it is more about the quality of the metal, thinner bolt== lees rotating weight, this can be done if the quality of the material is high enough. It is basically like the entire engine design, honda decided to use forgings rather than castings for the crank and rods, not so much for "boost strength", but for weight reduction in order to make a more efficent engine, better materil means you need less of it to achieve the same stregnth.

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

how much dough are we talking about I may get turbo plus conversion and hoping it won't cost more than 10k

NVA-AV6

^LOL, the RWD conversion will be over $10K just for parts and materials probably considering you will need a compllete rear end from something like a vett or skyline or even a SC300 to handle the power, anything above 500RWHP shatters a S2K rear. Custom legnth driver shaft. Total custom fab front and rear subframes. Complete iterior removal and enlargement of the tunnel to fit both the exhaust and driveshaft. Custom carpet. Maybe use a fuel tank from a SHA RL or fuel cell in the trunk. Engine mount brackets will have to be from scratch. Trans adaptor and trans. Firewall mods to the point where the air distribution box will have to be removed and customized. Stubs made to hold the front hubs together since the axels won't be used anymore. ECT........

Yes I have thought long and hard about this for quite a while and decided if I was going to go RWD for myself I will grab a DelSol and rear engine it with a J ,6sp, and eaither SC or turbo. I have already done a couple of rear engine DelSols and there is definatly the room for it and would actually be easier than converting a Accord or TL........

Majofo

you can do what these guys did with a twin turbo J35... Ronn Motors "Supercar" Scorpion..








Transverse & 180'd FWD config at the rear = RWD

It would still cost more than 10k in fab work but it's an idea..

NVA-AV6

^Thus why I look at the DelSol, it is the only Honda chassis that this can "easily" be done with.

Opel

i agree, its not the size, but its strength...id still change them to stronger bolts though if i aim towards 500-600 hp...true about the crank and rods, which is why i only got pistons...btw, i just came back from the track and my clutch was complete toast...i mean fucking TOAST, i couldn't even run it...and it was a great cool dry day...ughhhhhhhh

Silva-type-s

iTrader: (3)

guess what people? rodney got a challenger yesterday at the dyno day......... i cant wait for this to go down. and the best part is its another boosted acura........ Rodney where you at homie. Im getting a better camera just for this.......

pass427

^^^^right here man barry awsome turnout at dyno day respect ...definely well bring out the cameras

pass427

havent seen the guys post up there dyno sheets yet where are they

Silva-type-s

iTrader: (3)

bobby has the videos and he editing then as we speak. I'll let you know when we post them. I wont post mine until i figure out the problem with my car

NVA-AV6

I would have also replaced the tooth pick rods, even if they are forged, it was for weight reduction, not stregnth and they WILL and have seen them bend easily......

pass427

cool sound like a plan

I hate cars

Forgings are usually heavier, especially when talking about crankshafts. Factories, short of Ferrari or Lamborghini just don't care about rotating mass. Why, I don't know, but it's obvious when you pull these things apart.

On a manual, it's completely pointless to try and save rotating weight considering the flywheel is there to store energy in the form of weight. Saving a few lbs from forging a crank instead of casting it is not what they were after.

A more rigid crankshaft and block go a long way in reducing vibrations and harmonics. Higher rpm engines like the TL generally use forged rods while low rpm engines like my GN that see tons of cylinder pressure can get away with a heavy cast but beefy rod.

Now in an auto, it's worthwhile. Going from a 12" lockup convertor to a 10" non lockup convertor shaved nearly 25lbs off the rotating mass of the engine and took it from a slow revving engine to Indy car like revving. It takes about a second to rev from idle to 4K and back.

NVA-AV6

I have both J35 cast (from a J35A4 Oddy) and forged (New from a J35A2 MDX) rods and the forged rod is much thinner and is 20% lighter than the cast rod. Also if you read the Honda/Acura marketing they even state it was done for weight reduction.

Also I agree on the ridged block , the 4 bolt main system in the J block is a beutiful thing two from the usual bottom location and two coming in thru eaither side to the the block girdle. I have seen these engines with rods broken thru the side of the block but the crank be perfectly stright and actually re-usable. In order to stretch out the mains on one of these engines you would have to break the bottom of the block out and the rods will go long before that.......

pass427

nva -av6 in your avitar i see boosting 13psi any whp numbers yet.

I hate cars

A lighter rod and piston is a good thing as long as strength isn't compromised. A lighter crank isn't really needed until you're in the pure racing world. Typically a heavier fully counterweighted crank is going to be more reliable in several ways than a light weight crank. If you saw the stock cast crank that's in my GN you would never believe it would hold even 250hp. I would guess the TL's crank is the strongest link in the bottom end, should be good for over 700hp.

Depending on how the rod failure occurs, the crank is normally reusable as long as the big end of the rod stays on it and the journal doesn't get beat up.

NVA-AV6

I haven't seen a ford 5.0L crank survie a rod break failure yet without the crank bending a couple thousands and have had several SB chevys also bend with a mid rod break failure, which seems to be the common failure on the acura/honda rods, they will bend under higher boost about 1-1.5" from the small end and snap whipping them thru the block, not pretty...... As for your GN crank, actually these have alot of meat at the counter weights so I would expect it to hold up well, the problem with cranks is when you get into ones like the Js and VQs where the cylinder are packed together tightly so you end up with really thin bob weight areas which is where you see the failures, especially in longer stroke engines.

pass427

Well for all the south Florida people there's a big event at moroso sports park October 4th which fox five will be there to do a live commentary , I have tickets also cheaper than buying them at the gate....and yes of course the tl will be going on the track for the first time , I happened to score a set of 18" slicks but I need two 18" rim to fit over those brembo brake to mount on the slicks (anyone happen to have two laying around please pm me...Ihc & Opel any input ?... And I forgot to mention no rule event ..no roll cage needed for faster cars , just plain out no rules..

Opel

no clue on rims for slicks...i can only tell u about light weight track rims lol (road course)

pass427

Man wish they were 17" so I could mont them on stock wheels but a friend had them so he told me to pick them up and get a set of 18" to mount them onto .. Definetly upping boost for that event if it breaks well deal with that the following day but for now that's the plan 490-500 whp not sure if well be on 110 or c16 but as tuner let me know what's going on I'll keep updates ... Oh and since it seems we have no reputable clutch that everyone seems to like , we took the time to have competition clutch make a full clutch/ flywheel package I'll know on Monday when I'll have the first setup to test out ..

Opel

let me know about the clutch...i hope they made a heavier pp thats not self adjusting, and deleted dual-mass light FW lol

pass427

For sure it's a heavier pp , totally redesigned will post pics as I get the first one in ... And as we are building a motor for some serious boost and will be sending the manual trans out for a makeover to handle our goal 650whp this will be completed may- June stay tuned..

Majofo

What happened to the sheets & vids from the dyno day?.. I sure hope the J will hold up at your track event, I can't wait to hear back on the event.. I have 3:1 odds on your clutches holding up with those slicks, 2:1 on drag radials..

Opel

ill be here...ppl with too many problems keep me here, not to mention my own rofl

pass427

Well what we have now was only rated to 350 lb tq , doubt I'll have the new setup in by then and even if I get it in before I need break in time but well see how it goes more looking into mph than trap time , still need some ksport and get car scaled in with new cluctch setup then I'll be more confident but for now let's see how she performs

pass427

Making the power is no issue just upgrading parts known to fail is the next step clutch tranny ect ,also well have drop in replacement forged rods soon for 3.2 ....were having custom made , were just waitng on call backs and updates from couple of manufacturers...After problems becomes enjoyment and don't forget that's the time to open the can of whopass up ....lol

I hate cars

It might not be a bad idea to take it to the track just to see the mph. Launch it like you're taking off normally from a stoplight, granny shift each gear but with full power once the clutch is fully engaged. It won't affect your mph by more than about 2mph if any. In fact, I've pulled more mph with my accidental burnouts than with a good 60'. That way we can guess fairly closely what it will run with a good clutch on good tires and what cars we can mess with on the street from a slow roll.

NVA-AV6

Paulter already has rods for the J32, J35 and now the J37.

pass427

not a bad idea theres test tune nites here at moroso on wednesday might go up there..whats ur best guess for mph

NVA-AV6