Maddizm

iTrader: (5)

Pass, what's the CEL for? Or am I mistaken?

Opel

not quiet true.....listen to this, and oh, the window is OPEN lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KihHfbQ9h4U

Majofo

My bet would be an evap or o2 cel..

Maddizm

iTrader: (5)

Opel are those your gauges? How'd you do that? Looks sweet!

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Why wouldn't you close your window, especialy if you are filming.

To the Silva guy, filming out of the sun roof come on.

As far as the limter I have hit it and it scares the shit out of you. The car just cuts power like you broke somthing or blew the engine. Not the feeling you want at 155 MPH. I see no reason to take it off

Opel

lol...yes they're mine.... oh man...i couldn't stand that blue glow around the gauges, so i got rid of it, leaving just the MPH marking lines.... and i wanted red numbers...i tore it apart, and messed with the cluster... i swear i dont even remember exactly what i did...id have to pull it out and look underneath...did that so long ago.... i think i blocked off some of it with paint...and used transparent red tape on the numbers lol...something along those lines lol

CivicB18B1

iTrader: (2)

did you change your cluster blue lights for the red leds?

Opel

nope, its the same cluster but modified

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

pass have you tried 12 PSI? 12 PSI is almost close enough to compete with the ZR1

I hate cars

In all honesty, the TL would need about 75 more hp than the ZR1 to break even due to the weight difference and that's from a roll. From a dig, nothing short of a 700hp TL would compete. When you get into cars of this speed, it takes a lot to make up for a bad launch.

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Isn't the Curb Weight for ZR1 like 3350 and the TL curb weight is around 3450. Now if the ZR1 dynos at 505 WHP and the TL at 9.2 PSI dynos at 437WHP I would assume at 12 PSI it would be 500WHP. That looks like a close match to me, though ZR1 has the RWD advantage. Though I know even at 12 PSI we would still lose, but it would be nice to know we won't lose by buslengths probably only by 1 or 2 car lengths for less than 30k luxury sedan? Thats not to bad

Oh yeah, IHC, is the Comptech Exhaust good enough for the T/C?

I hate cars

Not sure. Minimum should be a single 3" or dual 2.5" for the turbo setup. Straight through mufflers are highly recommended in a turbo app too. What size is Comptech?

Majofo

a dual setup with a resonated pipe for each bank would be my setup..

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

That's what I am getting

Silva-type-s

iTrader: (3)

like i said a custom 3 inch exhaust will do that

Opel

comptech is 2.5 single, resonated and muffled...and OVERPRICED beyond belief

JandR

i started an official turbo kit deposit thread please sign up and pm me for more info thanks

I hate cars

Good to have you here!

A question that's been on my mind for a while, what type of controller do you use to control the wastegate? Just wondering if it's mechanical or electronic. This may be useful for people like me that would be interested in pushing the envelope a little.

I'm assuming if it's a mechanical like a bleeder or just the wastegate spring itself, it's going to come at a conservative boost level that the user has to turn up to get the desired 9psi or whatever it may be???

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Comptech isn't resonated. I bought it from TylerT, the original person who purchased it put a Aero resonator to lessen the sound, since it was his first exhaust (ditto), Comptech Exhaust probably has the best sound out of all exhaust systems. All exhaust systems probably will show very minimal difference performance, so I went with something that wouldn't blow my neighbor's windows everytime I drive by. 700$ is not bad for an (though it is used) exhaust system and how is it overpriced when all the exhaust systems (ATLP, Greddy, Tanabe, XLR8, etc... $1000 range on all exhaust) are near or even more than the Comptech while producing the same gains. If you say that the Comptech is overpriced that means every other exhaust is also! Can't wait to install it, don't mess up my happiness as I'm still waiting for it!

Opel

they all are overpriced...ive also heard them all....sounds of disaster... im not sticking up for any of the systems...i wouldn't spend a penny on any of them either,

but thats just me

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

What do you have on yours?

JandR

thanks..well at first it was the wastegate spring ,then manual controller now im using electronic aem tru boost

Opel

custom...muffler shop...the way i wanted it,

pass427

but all that excessive noise is from wastegate dump tube been ope for testing as posted earlier

I hate cars

I agree. You guys are really unlucky in the import world. A dual stainless exhaust with stainless muffers plus test pipe cost me $550 and it will flow well into the bottom 10s, high 9s. It seems like everything is more expensive over here.

If I ever did the TL, it would be from a local shop for 1/3 the price. I believe Opel did that, right?

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

So how much are we talking for a custom 2.5" dual or 3" single? With this turbo, what would a 2.5" single due to performance? How sure are you, reason? And I bet 95% ofthe people purchasing this will have a 2.5" single exhaust. I'm trying to learn this as I'm trying to get one of these during the end of April. Opel and I hate cars, thanks for the knowledge!

I hate cars

Less power and more turbo lag. I'm 100% sure. I haven't looked at the charts in 10 years, it's engrained in my head but there are minimum diameters for certain power levels NA and turbo'd. I've also tested those charts and learned the hard way.

Opel

thats right.... muffler shop. tell them what you want, how you want it...will cost u way less than buying...and the pre-fabed kits aren't always exactly what you want all the time.... and the best of all, you get a completely unique setup, and sound.... rather than being amongst the bunch....no offense, by the way. i just dont want my car to sound like 10 other cars in my neighborhood.

with ur own setup, u can always go back and tweak it as u please...as i have done so....ive had every kind of possible setup on the tl over the years... and thats something a lot of ppl wouldn't do on their $1200 exhaust, such as cutting and hacking away to change it.

and again, thats just me

I hate cars

I like your style. There's a place for pre-fabbed exhausts no doubt but it's nice to "design" your own to your needs and your preferences and for a good price.

Opel

custom of either sizes...and im talking catback...will run u around $400-500 including resonators or whatever u may wanna do...but again that depends on the shops...im pretty positive a single 2.5" is a bit too small for forced induction... you dont want a higher IM pressure than exhaust...lot of probs can arise, for one, and 2nd, while 2.5 is pretty good for NA.... with 8-9 psi, theres tremendous increase in pressure.... remember, this is forced induction... and another reason is...performance itself.. what good is the power inside the motor, when it cant fart? lol

3" minimum for the turbo...if ya went over 20 psi, ud go with 4".... look at evo's.. 2.0 motor, most guys that run a lot of boost, they have 4"...

and this is the worst enemy... increased temps in combustion chamber due to overwhelming exhaust pressure, that just can't flow free enough... always remember, exhaust gasses flow backwards too...some of it leading back into the combustion chamber. let me not get into this now.

u also mention a dual....hmmm, i like the idea, however...ull have to use an X pipe...or ur car will sound like crap, and worry about keeping it quiet and all that...i think its just a bit more complicated and will cost u more ..one, and second... i believe they only used the front cylinder bank to spool up the turbo, which results in a kinda uneven exhaust flow....in this case, its a bit different since both downpipes join right below, mixing in the flow...while if u tried to run 2 pipes out the back...ull have one flow more than the other all the way out...id kinda stay away from that. again, i could be completely wrong about how they set up to spool the turbo...or i may have missed it in the pics.. but this is from me...someone else will have another opinion... and anything u get from here, trust me, its based on good knowledge...listen to what IHC says, he speaks from his own experience, rather than listening to another car fan and passing things on.

Opel

thanks....did u get a chance to listen to the vid i posted above, showing cluster? thats completely custom and if u notice, its controlable...my own little secret..that im debating to reveal lol

Majofo

Champ.. This would me my setup if I got the kit (custom exhaust on G37 pictured).. it's a bit more tricky since the current kit runs from the 3rd cat and we have a transverse orientation.. The exhaust would be from scratch.. The feed would probably have to come from a crossover section. It'll cost more though.. but with the right resonators.. the fab'd exhaust could be priceless.

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the replies. Only problem with getting a custom
exhaust is the sound, the comptech is my first exhaust and my first performance exhaust ever so I'm getting used to it (I tend to keep my cars bone stock). How can I get a custom exhaust sound similar to like a g35 tone. I have some shops here that can do a 3" single custom easily but I'm not sure how will it sound (don't want my luxury sedan becoming a civic) thanks guys

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

And do you think I can modify the comptech to be 3" or do I have to start from scratch?

I hate cars

Agreed. The only exception being you need all 6 cylinders to spool the turbo. Missing even one will give you a 10 second spool time. I blew an exhaust gasket on one cylinder and even with a pretty small turbo, I would floor it and hit full boost around 40mph. Not fun.

You're right about the backpressure. It can cause pinging and all sorts of issues. Not to mention on a turbo car you don't just lose power but it spools slower too.

The easiest thing to remember about turbo cars is you can't have too little backpressure. This is one of the rare cases of if you're not sure, err on the large side.

The turbo acts as a muffler. What may be a little too loud NA may be just right with the turbo. The turbo also tends to give it a more mellow sound instead of raspy. I have a very good ear for being able to tell how much boost a turbo car is running. If it's very quiet in normal driving yet blows your ears out under full boost, it's likely running a lot of boost.....or an open wastegate.

I hate cars

This isn't always true but a good rule of thumb is duals are quieter than singles.

Mild steel usually produces a lower rumble than stainless.

Larger piping usually produces a more mellow sound but slightly louder.

Turbos will make it quieter and mellower.

Larger straight through mufflers will be quieter than smaller straight through mufflers of the same brand.

If I were doing a turbo TL, it would be a 3" Dp into dual 2.5" or single 3" with a straight through mild steel muffler (love the sound) that clamps into the exhaust system so that you can easily swap it out.

3" should be cheaper.

Placing a muffler in the 3rd cat's position will greatly cut back on cabin resonance.

Majofo

Defeats the purpose.. If you're serious about doing the turbo kit.. sell the CT catback when you get the kit. Find a good muffler shop near you that has experience with turbos and will guarantee / warranty their work (most do).. and tell them what you want.. they'll tell you what's possible / not.. do some research on resonators / mufflers.. that's the good thing about getting it fab'd is you design it to your tastes..

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Aight thanks guys for the help. Dual exhaust 3" here I come in 6 months

I hate cars

Dual 3" will be enough for 1,000hp...

Majofo

Champ has a picture of the ZR1 on his dartboard..