Turbo Kit for Acura TL '04-'08
11-23-2011, 01:22 PM
#5001
Instructor
Hey libert, let me know when you are heading to Florida. I'll meet you down there. I was just talking to Rodney about your build last night. As for mine, I went to the track a week ago, had a back fire and sheared a couple of fins on the turbine. I guess the backfire reversed the the turbine causing the fins to shear. No worries though, I'll have the new precision turbo next week sometime and send the broken one to be repaired. Just a minor setback but I'm planning on starting my version 2 build in January.
11-23-2011, 01:47 PM
#5002
Team Owner
Hey libert, let me know when you are heading to Florida. I'll meet you down there. I was just talking to Rodney about your build last night. As for mine, I went to the track a week ago, had a back fire and sheared a couple of fins on the turbine. I guess the backfire reversed the the turbine causing the fins to shear. No worries though, I'll have the new precision turbo next week sometime and send the broken one to be repaired. Just a minor setback but I'm planning on starting my version 2 build in January.
Be very careful with PTE, even with admitted problems with their older turbos they refuse to warranty anything. I'm still a little bitter that they told me their turbo was defective and still wouldn't cover it a month after I bought it. The new stuff is fine, especially since most of it is re branded Garret stuff.
11-23-2011, 01:48 PM
#5003
very exciting indeed 
N/A = The calm before the storm.
It's going to suck having to drive the 1k miles without boost for the break-in after you gotten so use to the beastly side before.
Like IHC said, we are really eager to hear your thoughts on the converter. I am assuming that you never driven or rode in a car with a loose converter before. If so, it will feel weird at first. During casual acceleration, you give it some throttle and the car acts like it doesn't want to move. You give it more throttle and the car acts wounded (very reluctant to accelerate). So you give it more pedal, and then you feel the converter grab and then you smile knowing that all is ok with the world.
Do some googling on engine break-in. There are two main philosophies. Take it easy, or give it hell. I follow the hell version. A lot of short burst of wot up to redline. But not prolonged / sustained periods. Get it up there and then get out of the throttle. Also important is to have sessions where you allow the engine to stay in lower gear (without upshifting) as the car coast down in speed after you wot to redline.
But most important is to follow the recommendation of Wiseco. Also, if IHC follows me with a reply regarding this, please follow his advise because he has more experience with this than me.
Now get off of the internet and go drive your car so that we can get past this 1k mile break-in point.
N/A = The calm before the storm.
It's going to suck having to drive the 1k miles without boost for the break-in after you gotten so use to the beastly side before.
Like IHC said, we are really eager to hear your thoughts on the converter. I am assuming that you never driven or rode in a car with a loose converter before. If so, it will feel weird at first. During casual acceleration, you give it some throttle and the car acts like it doesn't want to move. You give it more throttle and the car acts wounded (very reluctant to accelerate). So you give it more pedal, and then you feel the converter grab and then you smile knowing that all is ok with the world.
Do some googling on engine break-in. There are two main philosophies. Take it easy, or give it hell. I follow the hell version. A lot of short burst of wot up to redline. But not prolonged / sustained periods. Get it up there and then get out of the throttle. Also important is to have sessions where you allow the engine to stay in lower gear (without upshifting) as the car coast down in speed after you wot to redline.
But most important is to follow the recommendation of Wiseco. Also, if IHC follows me with a reply regarding this, please follow his advise because he has more experience with this than me.
Now get off of the internet and go drive your car so that we can get past this 1k mile break-in point.
When I bought my new suv, I followed the manufacturers recommendation of driving the car easy for the first 600 miles. No wot at first, keep the rpms below 4k, constantly varying the rpms while driving and no idling for more then 3 minutes. I did the same thing for my bike as per Yamaha.
Ive read about the "give it hell" method also but never went that route.
The car is still in florida with rodney at this point. Doesnt make sense for me to get the car and drive for the break in period just to give it back to him. Turbo kit, fuel return, fuel pump, ecu and few other things need to go on the car. I told rodney to drive the hell out of it for me
Hey libert, let me know when you are heading to Florida. I'll meet you down there. I was just talking to Rodney about your build last night. As for mine, I went to the track a week ago, had a back fire and sheared a couple of fins on the turbine. I guess the backfire reversed the the turbine causing the fins to shear. No worries though, I'll have the new precision turbo next week sometime and send the broken one to be repaired. Just a minor setback but I'm planning on starting my version 2 build in January.
11-23-2011, 02:19 PM
#5004
Safety Car
When I bought my new suv, I followed the manufacturers recommendation of driving the car easy for the first 600 miles. No wot at first, keep the rpms below 4k, constantly varying the rpms while driving and no idling for more then 3 minutes. I did the same thing for my bike as per Yamaha.
Ive read about the "give it hell" method also but never went that route.
Ive read about the "give it hell" method also but never went that route.
There is a huge difference between a virgin oem engine and a hand-built engine. Thus, the break-in procedure is vastly different too.
Oem engines are built much more accurately (true round bores). Thus, not much lapping is needed to mate the rings to the cylinder walls. The big name car and motorcycle manufactures have this down to a science.
But with a hand-built engine like a race engine, the cylinder bores are machined by typical equipment at a local machine shop. This equipment pales in comparison to the mega dollar stuff that the big name manufactures use to bore the oem cylinders.
The hand-built engine will have cylinder bores that are not as truly round as the oem stuff. So, the hand-built engine needs more lapping to mate the rings to the walls. And this is why I posted about getting a proper break-in because I thought the average person didn't know that a rebuilt engine (hand-built) needs a radically different break-in approach than oem stuff.
I am also of the persuasion that even oem stuff should be broken-in with the Hell method. But, that is just me. Many people, myself included, think that the vehicle should be broken-in in the same fashion that it will be used during it's lifetime. When my TL was new, I broke it in with the Hell method. It is like telling the car to "get use to it because this is the way it is going to be."
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libert69 (11-26-2011)
11-23-2011, 03:19 PM
#5005
Team Owner
I am glad you brought up the topic of breaking-in an oem vehicle. I thought about this after I posted my reply.
There is a huge difference between a virgin oem engine and a hand-built engine. Thus, the break-in procedure is vastly different too.
Oem engines are built much more accurately (true round bores). Thus, not much lapping is needed to mate the rings to the cylinder walls. The big name car and motorcycle manufactures have this down to a science.
But with a hand-built engine like a race engine, the cylinder bores are machined by typical equipment at a local machine shop. This equipment pales in comparison to the mega dollar stuff that the big name manufactures use to bore the oem cylinders.
The hand-built engine will have cylinder bores that are not as truly round as the oem stuff. So, the hand-built engine needs more lapping to mate the rings to the walls. And this is why I posted about getting a proper break-in because I thought the average person didn't know that a rebuilt engine (hand-built) needs a radically different break-in approach than oem stuff.
I am also of the persuasion that even oem stuff should be broken-in with the Hell method. But, that is just me. Many people, myself included, think that the vehicle should be broken-in in the same fashion that it will be used during it's lifetime. When my TL was new, I broke it in with the Hell method. It is like telling the car to "get use to it because this is the way it is going to be."
There is a huge difference between a virgin oem engine and a hand-built engine. Thus, the break-in procedure is vastly different too.
Oem engines are built much more accurately (true round bores). Thus, not much lapping is needed to mate the rings to the cylinder walls. The big name car and motorcycle manufactures have this down to a science.
But with a hand-built engine like a race engine, the cylinder bores are machined by typical equipment at a local machine shop. This equipment pales in comparison to the mega dollar stuff that the big name manufactures use to bore the oem cylinders.
The hand-built engine will have cylinder bores that are not as truly round as the oem stuff. So, the hand-built engine needs more lapping to mate the rings to the walls. And this is why I posted about getting a proper break-in because I thought the average person didn't know that a rebuilt engine (hand-built) needs a radically different break-in approach than oem stuff.
I am also of the persuasion that even oem stuff should be broken-in with the Hell method. But, that is just me. Many people, myself included, think that the vehicle should be broken-in in the same fashion that it will be used during it's lifetime. When my TL was new, I broke it in with the Hell method. It is like telling the car to "get use to it because this is the way it is going to be."
Certain processes can be better with a hand built engine but it's rare. My machinest resizes the big end of the rod in 5 steps with a cool down to ambient in between each one.
He bores the cylinders and final hones only once he gets the pistons and each cylinder is final honed for it's respective piston. This is one area the OEMs have had issues with in the past, piston to cylinder clearance and the resulting cold engine knock.
But as for the consistency of cylinder hone and most other processes, OEM is very hard to beat. My turbo car is known to have a bullet proof bottom end and headgaskets from the factory. People push 600hp out of them. Once they're rebuilt, they never seem to hold the headgaskets as well. It was discovered that GM used a machine that torqued all 8 headbolts at the same time. Some guys tried getting 8 wrenches with 8 people on them at once which was comical at best. I settled for torquing the heads in 10 steps instead of the recommended 3 steps. I figured that's as close as you could reasonably come to getting the factory results.
As I'm sure Bert knows, warmup with forged pistons is a little more critical. You're going to have greater piston to cylinder clearances when cold. My car with the forged JEs sounds like a diesel for a minute or two and then quiets down.
Anyway, I'm sure the break-in will go well and can't wait until this thing sees a few psi boost. There's no doubt this will be the quickest and fastest TL ever built. I'm just going to remain silent on the 5at for now lol. I have high hopes though.
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libert69 (11-26-2011)
11-23-2011, 05:11 PM
#5006
Instructor
So you're saying it was the exhaust side, not the compressor side and it was an exhaust backfire, not an intake pop?
Be very careful with PTE, even with admitted problems with their older turbos they refuse to warranty anything. I'm still a little bitter that they told me their turbo was defective and still wouldn't cover it a month after I bought it. The new stuff is fine, especially since most of it is re branded Garret stuff.
Be very careful with PTE, even with admitted problems with their older turbos they refuse to warranty anything. I'm still a little bitter that they told me their turbo was defective and still wouldn't cover it a month after I bought it. The new stuff is fine, especially since most of it is re branded Garret stuff.
Last edited by spade0698; 11-23-2011 at 05:19 PM.
11-23-2011, 08:17 PM
#5007
Home Of The Gemini Method
I don't know if this has been brought up in this discussion, but an old friend of mine who has been and is still deep in the Ford scene, is the original owner of an 1987 fox-body Mustang. During his recent rebuild, he had the A4 block cryo-genically treated. I didn't find out about this til one day I was at his muffler shop (which is a few doors down from the place that did my brake rotors) and he was telling me about it.
The Acura Master-Tech who did my brakes also acknowleged and agreed the Mustang guy did a very smart thing, since cryo'ing reinforces the make up of the material and eliminates the heat spots in the material.
I look at it as cheap insurance. My rotors only cost $20.00 to have them cryoed.
I am probably a bit off topic, but these recent posts made me think of my friends build.
Edit: The reason I thought of this is, both people mentioned to me that the cryo process helps to reform the cylinder walls to make them more OEM'ish. Man, I hate getting old and forgetting shit!
The Acura Master-Tech who did my brakes also acknowleged and agreed the Mustang guy did a very smart thing, since cryo'ing reinforces the make up of the material and eliminates the heat spots in the material.
I look at it as cheap insurance. My rotors only cost $20.00 to have them cryoed.
I am probably a bit off topic, but these recent posts made me think of my friends build.
Edit: The reason I thought of this is, both people mentioned to me that the cryo process helps to reform the cylinder walls to make them more OEM'ish. Man, I hate getting old and forgetting shit!
Last edited by J Dubya; 11-23-2011 at 08:28 PM. Reason: Getting old and forgot reason WHY I wanted to post!
11-23-2011, 09:29 PM
#5008
Team Owner
It was on the compressor side....I'll upload pics. My first reaction was a intake backfire. It happened on a burnout prior to my drag run. ( i made the mistake of doing a burnout in first using M mode vs just leaving it in D...Brain fart) The car redlined and then i heard a backfire. The car ran great at the strip but afterwards the a/f ratio was running at 14.3-14.8. Plus when I gave it some gas, the turbo would whine and the a/f would remain constant. But no smoke from the engine or exhaust. I thought a pipe may have blown off from the intercooler but I checked everything and it looked ok. I took a pic of the turbine on compressor side and noticed the fins. I told rodney and his tuner said the backfire caused the turbine to reverse spin, shearing the fins. The car is running fine right now if I keep the throttle pressure to a minimum...Precision is sending me their new 6262CEA turbo. Only difference is the turbine has a new design which they said will increase HP 35-40 with improved spool time.
An intake backfire will try and spin it backwards. Exhaust backfire just speeds it up. It would have eventually started smoking as it destroyed the bearings from being out of balance but not right away. The good thing about the intercooler is it will usually catch stuff before it gets into the engine.
That new turbo sounds great. I'm running a 6776R and it's amazing how it spools considering the 8-900hp potential. That 6262cea uses a ceramic turbine, right? Are they requiring any kind of particulate trap for that wheel? Just out of curiosity, why would you go to a ceramic turbine?
11-23-2011, 10:39 PM
#5009
Instructor
I see. Compressor side makes much more sense than turbine side. I've broken a single blade off of the turbine and it would send a vibration through the car. On the compressor side with the light aluminum you usually only know it's broken by lost performance or noise.
An intake backfire will try and spin it backwards. Exhaust backfire just speeds it up. It would have eventually started smoking as it destroyed the bearings from being out of balance but not right away. The good thing about the intercooler is it will usually catch stuff before it gets into the engine.
That new turbo sounds great. I'm running a 6776R and it's amazing how it spools considering the 8-900hp potential. That 6262cea uses a ceramic turbine, right? Are they requiring any kind of particulate trap for that wheel? Just out of curiosity, why would you go to a ceramic turbine?
An intake backfire will try and spin it backwards. Exhaust backfire just speeds it up. It would have eventually started smoking as it destroyed the bearings from being out of balance but not right away. The good thing about the intercooler is it will usually catch stuff before it gets into the engine.
That new turbo sounds great. I'm running a 6776R and it's amazing how it spools considering the 8-900hp potential. That 6262cea uses a ceramic turbine, right? Are they requiring any kind of particulate trap for that wheel? Just out of curiosity, why would you go to a ceramic turbine?
Precision has introduced a new ultra high-flow CEA (Competition Engineered Aerodynamics) specifically engineered to produce massive power gains over older turbine wheel designs, usage of Precision’s new CEA wheels typically results in an average increase of 30-45 horsepower over comparably-sized standard designs. Furthermore, spool-up time is improved when using PTE’s CEA turbine wheels to further reduce turbo lag.
Similar in concept to PTE’s CEA compressor wheels which are machined from a 2618-aluminum forging for added strength, higher efficiency, faster transient response and maximum performance, Precision’s CEA turbine wheels offer unparalleled performance and the best “bang for your buck”.
Precision’s current 62mm turbine wheels will be replaced by the new 62mm CEA version.
Here are my options
• Available with either a Hydrodynamic 360° thrust bearing system, or an air-cooled, dual ceramic ball-bearing center housing rotating assembly (CHRA).
I plan on keeping the same setup, so ceramic ball bearing for me is not an option. I'll just stick with journal bearing....
Last edited by spade0698; 11-23-2011 at 10:48 PM.
12-08-2011, 11:41 PM
#5010
New motor has about 750 miles on it. Time for some boost.
Heads were re-torqued to spec. Valvetrain was a tad noisy so a call to KMS (im running a full KMS valvetrain) and they said to make a tighter adjustment to #6 on the intake side and #10 on the exhaust side should quiet it down. I guess this a common thing if they had a quick answer.
Brake was applied at a standstill in drive and the pedal to the floor. RPMs didnt go above 2000 and I have a restalled 3000rpm converter. I guess the oem ecu is in full control of this. Thank god the JandR ecu has proven to be capable of a successful 2-step
Turbo going on this weekend
Heads were re-torqued to spec. Valvetrain was a tad noisy so a call to KMS (im running a full KMS valvetrain) and they said to make a tighter adjustment to #6 on the intake side and #10 on the exhaust side should quiet it down. I guess this a common thing if they had a quick answer.
Brake was applied at a standstill in drive and the pedal to the floor. RPMs didnt go above 2000 and I have a restalled 3000rpm converter. I guess the oem ecu is in full control of this. Thank god the JandR ecu has proven to be capable of a successful 2-step
Turbo going on this weekend
12-09-2011, 12:15 AM
#5011
Safety Car
Thanks for the update Bert.
I agree about the ecu not allowing the it to rev past 2k. Has Rodney commented on the loosen of the converter since he has been driving it?
Sounds like you will be having a Great Christmas
I agree about the ecu not allowing the it to rev past 2k. Has Rodney commented on the loosen of the converter since he has been driving it?
Sounds like you will be having a Great Christmas
12-09-2011, 10:22 AM
#5012
Burning Brakes
Definitely a difference with oem torque converter no question about that you can actually feel this trans is waiting for some power to be applied to it can't wait til turbo goes on I will make a vidoe today as I get a chance taking of driving ect so everyone will be able to see .....
12-09-2011, 10:25 AM
#5013
Burning Brakes
From now til January first is time to get in on a turbo kit for holiday special we are willing to take 1000 of turbo kit with two or more orders ,more than a deal ..
12-09-2011, 11:22 AM
#5014
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^^^ any deal on just the JnR ECU 
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SharksBreath (12-09-2011)
12-09-2011, 01:43 PM
#5016
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^^^ emailed you on your Yahoo via my Gmail
12-09-2011, 02:12 PM
#5018
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^^^ i know bro....am thinking about the turbo kit now LOL....
12-09-2011, 04:31 PM
#5019
Car in stock form here. From the vids it looks like the the stall speed at standstill is between 2300-2400. Stock was 2000-2100. Hard to tell (b/c I havent drove the car yet) but it does look like the rpms jump to around 3000 when giving it some gas but not downshifting.
Look at the second vid right at the 1 min mark. Car is in drive in the 5th gear. Gave it some gas and the rpms immediately jump to 3000 without downshifting.
Look at the second vid right at the 1 min mark. Car is in drive in the 5th gear. Gave it some gas and the rpms immediately jump to 3000 without downshifting.
12-09-2011, 09:49 PM
#5020
Nice! Was the MS3 installed at the time of the videos?
Ill be doing a little work on my beast this weekend as well. The new pump is in, and I finally have the replacement battery in. It's amazing how much quieter the Aeromotive 340lph pump is compared to the Walbro 255.
Rodney, the new pump took care of the fuel bleed off issues. It's now several minutes before the fuel pressure drops to 0. I'll get you some videos tomorrow evening so that you can get an idea as to what it's doing. I'll probably ping you via email at some point during the afternoon as well to get the idle sorted out.
So now that we've got some of the bigger builds coming together, when are we going to have a turbo TL shin dig?
Ill be doing a little work on my beast this weekend as well. The new pump is in, and I finally have the replacement battery in. It's amazing how much quieter the Aeromotive 340lph pump is compared to the Walbro 255.
Rodney, the new pump took care of the fuel bleed off issues. It's now several minutes before the fuel pressure drops to 0. I'll get you some videos tomorrow evening so that you can get an idea as to what it's doing. I'll probably ping you via email at some point during the afternoon as well to get the idle sorted out.
So now that we've got some of the bigger builds coming together, when are we going to have a turbo TL shin dig?
12-09-2011, 10:26 PM
#5021
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More than the MS3 am impressed with Rodney....just exchanged couple emails today and he seemed very polite and very "workable".....
I might be a new customer of his tonight (awaiting funds to show up in account so I can send him a paypal)....
Other guys interested....Rodney is giving a good deal on the Ms3...jump on it
I might be a new customer of his tonight
(awaiting funds to show up in account so I can send him a paypal)....Other guys interested....Rodney is giving a good deal on the Ms3...jump on it
12-09-2011, 11:26 PM
#5022
Nice! Was the MS3 installed at the time of the videos?
Ill be doing a little work on my beast this weekend as well. The new pump is in, and I finally have the replacement battery in. It's amazing how much quieter the Aeromotive 340lph pump is compared to the Walbro 255.
Rodney, the new pump took care of the fuel bleed off issues. It's now several minutes before the fuel pressure drops to 0. I'll get you some videos tomorrow evening so that you can get an idea as to what it's doing. I'll probably ping you via email at some point during the afternoon as well to get the idle sorted out.
So now that we've got some of the bigger builds coming together, when are we going to have a turbo TL shin dig?
Ill be doing a little work on my beast this weekend as well. The new pump is in, and I finally have the replacement battery in. It's amazing how much quieter the Aeromotive 340lph pump is compared to the Walbro 255.
Rodney, the new pump took care of the fuel bleed off issues. It's now several minutes before the fuel pressure drops to 0. I'll get you some videos tomorrow evening so that you can get an idea as to what it's doing. I'll probably ping you via email at some point during the afternoon as well to get the idle sorted out.
So now that we've got some of the bigger builds coming together, when are we going to have a turbo TL shin dig?
What state are you in?
12-10-2011, 09:31 AM
#5023
Nice! Was the MS3 installed at the time of the videos?
Ill be doing a little work on my beast this weekend as well. The new pump is in, and I finally have the replacement battery in. It's amazing how much quieter the Aeromotive 340lph pump is compared to the Walbro 255.
Rodney, the new pump took care of the fuel bleed off issues. It's now several minutes before the fuel pressure drops to 0. I'll get you some videos tomorrow evening so that you can get an idea as to what it's doing. I'll probably ping you via email at some point during the afternoon as well to get the idle sorted out.
So now that we've got some of the bigger builds coming together, when are we going to have a turbo TL shin dig?
Ill be doing a little work on my beast this weekend as well. The new pump is in, and I finally have the replacement battery in. It's amazing how much quieter the Aeromotive 340lph pump is compared to the Walbro 255.
Rodney, the new pump took care of the fuel bleed off issues. It's now several minutes before the fuel pressure drops to 0. I'll get you some videos tomorrow evening so that you can get an idea as to what it's doing. I'll probably ping you via email at some point during the afternoon as well to get the idle sorted out.
So now that we've got some of the bigger builds coming together, when are we going to have a turbo TL shin dig?
I was wondering where you were with your ride. Hope you get the fuel issues worked out. Are you the first with the return kit?
12-10-2011, 01:29 PM
#5024
Burning Brakes
hmm deal on JnR ECU...Sending email today about this ECU deal!!!
12-10-2011, 01:44 PM
#5025
@libert69 I started out with a Walbro 255 but had some issues with it. Upgrading to the Aeromotive was partially because I had heard good things about it as well as the upgraded flow. For the amount of power the rest of the parts are capable of, I needed the increased flow of the new pump (and, truthfully, I should have gone a bit bigger). I'm over in MN, but I'd be up for a bit of a drive. Maybe something mid-way like Ohio...?
@KN_TL It was VERY loud. I have a friend that has the same pump in his Civic hatch and it was the same way. Being that his Civic has less sound deadening material in it, you can almost hear it over the exhaust during highway cruising. I'm still trying to keep everything else very civil with this car.
I'm not the first with the fuel return setup. I know that Rodney is running it as well as some of the Accord guys.
@KN_TL It was VERY loud. I have a friend that has the same pump in his Civic hatch and it was the same way. Being that his Civic has less sound deadening material in it, you can almost hear it over the exhaust during highway cruising. I'm still trying to keep everything else very civil with this car.
I'm not the first with the fuel return setup. I know that Rodney is running it as well as some of the Accord guys.
12-10-2011, 01:52 PM
#5026
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@Boston: he is offering a good deal....am trying to call him but not able to get thro....wanna confirm before i send the payment in
Last edited by swoosh; 12-10-2011 at 01:57 PM.
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BostonSilverTypeS (12-10-2011)
12-10-2011, 03:52 PM
#5027
@libert69 I started out with a Walbro 255 but had some issues with it. Upgrading to the Aeromotive was partially because I had heard good things about it as well as the upgraded flow. For the amount of power the rest of the parts are capable of, I needed the increased flow of the new pump (and, truthfully, I should have gone a bit bigger). I'm over in MN, but I'd be up for a bit of a drive. Maybe something mid-way like Ohio...?
@KN_TL It was VERY loud. I have a friend that has the same pump in his Civic hatch and it was the same way. Being that his Civic has less sound deadening material in it, you can almost hear it over the exhaust during highway cruising. I'm still trying to keep everything else very civil with this car.
I'm not the first with the fuel return setup. I know that Rodney is running it as well as some of the Accord guys.
@KN_TL It was VERY loud. I have a friend that has the same pump in his Civic hatch and it was the same way. Being that his Civic has less sound deadening material in it, you can almost hear it over the exhaust during highway cruising. I'm still trying to keep everything else very civil with this car.
I'm not the first with the fuel return setup. I know that Rodney is running it as well as some of the Accord guys.
I think kikazz was the first with the return setup. Too bad that car is no longer with us. I have the fuel return system going in as well.
12-11-2011, 12:57 AM
#5028
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PAYMENT SENT FOR THE ECU
Rodney called and he is one of those people who leave an impression on you after you talk to them....no homo but loved talking to this guy.....
Sent the money as soon as i hung up
Rodney called and he is one of those people who leave an impression on you after you talk to them....no homo but loved talking to this guy.....
Sent the money as soon as i hung up
12-11-2011, 10:07 AM
#5031
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
so.. why ECU if no turbo? 
12-11-2011, 04:29 PM
#5032
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no FI for now but got something up my sleeve
12-11-2011, 08:05 PM
#5033
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
12-11-2011, 08:16 PM
#5034
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO
Age: 40
Posts: 30,994
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^^^ yup, coz am not keeping it a secret
only makes sense to share with the forum....so that everyone can learn....
only makes sense to share with the forum....so that everyone can learn....
12-12-2011, 07:04 PM
#5037
Ive heard about the walbro being loud but I havent experienced it yet. Wow ohio lol. Maybe if I ever do a road trip ill include it on my list
I think kikazz was the first with the return setup. Too bad that car is no longer with us. I have the fuel return system going in as well.
I think kikazz was the first with the return setup. Too bad that car is no longer with us. I have the fuel return system going in as well.
Any word on what happened to kikazz's motor and trans? I know he had it listed for a while and had a few interested parties. No word after that though.
Update for Rodney... I got the motor up and running again over the weekend. The idle is smooth as silk, but it needs a lot more work on the rest of the map. I think it's finally time to start talking with my tuner about getting it on the rollers and see what she'll do. I never got a chance to get you any videos because we were just too concerned about watching all the gauges and making last minute adjustments. No DTC's on any of the car's systems so that's a huge bonus as well.
12-12-2011, 07:12 PM
#5038
To date vato have had the pleasure of having the highest whp tl with 560 whp and 500lb tq at the wheels ,but with libert and Wayne both doing a build ,BTW we may have another contender that we will push the limit close to 600 whp ,we have been a bit quiet for a few months but rest assure we have no plans in closing our doors or stop offering our services matter a fact we are continuing our ventures with the tl regardless of how old it is now its still a great car and engine once you get to know it its awesome ....the mystery contender will be a manual types ....
12-12-2011, 09:20 PM
#5040
Hey guys, Im the "mystery contender", I actually have an 04 MT but its gonna be close to a type S once its done (hopefully by next month at the latest!) My Tuner said I should break 600 WHP no problem with my setup, im in Denver, CO so that number will be higher at sea level. I will give the full details once its all done but for now its a 04 MT with Type S tranny, J&R turbo kit & ECU; the block isnt stock and will be similar to libert's build.