Turbo Kit for Acura TL '04-'08
#5162
18psi
iTrader: (7)
spoke to level 10 transmissions about line pressure, soleniods, clutches and so on...
scroll back several pages or so when we were talking about the tq converter, regulator spring and stator...
level 10 said to in order to increase line pressure in the early rpm range you need to change out the regulator spring to one with less tension. He recommended about 75% less tension then stock for my setup with 15psi. That "should" give full or close to full line pressure in the lower rpms where it feels like im experiencing the sliipping.
level 10 also said that after swapping the spring I should adjust the soleniods on top of the trans by 1/4 turn at a time. He said adjusting the soleniods WITHOUT swapping the spring first probably wouldnt do anything. Reminds of that thread a few years ago about the guy adjusting the soleniods on his stock tl and needed that special tool from sonex
Finally, they said raybestos now offers clutches for the tl. raybestos honda gpx clutches
http://www.raybestospowertrain.com/r...=55&Itemid=237
level 10 and raybestos recommend dw1 fluid with these clutches. I talked about my use of type f so far and he had nothing bad to say about it but noted that raybestos recommended dw1
I wish I would of known about this fu*cking spring when I did the converter swap. Might have prevented all this.
scroll back several pages or so when we were talking about the tq converter, regulator spring and stator...
level 10 said to in order to increase line pressure in the early rpm range you need to change out the regulator spring to one with less tension. He recommended about 75% less tension then stock for my setup with 15psi. That "should" give full or close to full line pressure in the lower rpms where it feels like im experiencing the sliipping.
level 10 also said that after swapping the spring I should adjust the soleniods on top of the trans by 1/4 turn at a time. He said adjusting the soleniods WITHOUT swapping the spring first probably wouldnt do anything. Reminds of that thread a few years ago about the guy adjusting the soleniods on his stock tl and needed that special tool from sonex
Finally, they said raybestos now offers clutches for the tl. raybestos honda gpx clutches
http://www.raybestospowertrain.com/r...=55&Itemid=237
level 10 and raybestos recommend dw1 fluid with these clutches. I talked about my use of type f so far and he had nothing bad to say about it but noted that raybestos recommended dw1
I wish I would of known about this fu*cking spring when I did the converter swap. Might have prevented all this.
#5164
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^^^
ahahah those gixxers are quick....damn 2 car lengths nice.....
ahahah those gixxers are quick....damn 2 car lengths nice.....
#5165
Safety Car
You are giving that trans no slack are you?
Details on the bike run. From a dig... wow. How far ahead did he get before you began to reel him back in? What was your mph when the cross over happened where he stops pulling away and you began to reel him in?
Details on the bike run. From a dig... wow. How far ahead did he get before you began to reel him back in? What was your mph when the cross over happened where he stops pulling away and you began to reel him in?
#5167
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
#5168
18psi
iTrader: (7)
Already bought a 6spd tranny so Im doing the swap. Bye bye auto
Myself and the bike were at a light and I had rodney in the car. Bike revved at me while at the light so he wanted to run. Tire spin on the top of 1st, backed off the gas a bit so the trans would shift, spinning top of 2nd, backed off again a tiny bit so I could shift, definitely slipping 3rd gear at 6000ish rpm. RPMs jump back and forth a few hundred but basically stay in the same place and the car is still accelerating. Have to shift to 4th when this happens. 4th gear grabs with no slip and pulls very hard. 16psi at 3500rpm. Backed off at 120ish at 2 car lengths ahead
There was never a moment when the bike was ahead of me. Im guessing he wasnt very good at launching that thing bc he should of definitly jumped ahead when I was spinning top of 1st. He was at my door from 1st through 2nd and I started pulling away from 70 to 120
#5169
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Was really hoping the Auto would hold up.. I really don't think lv10 or any other trans shop will be able build a reliable trans. 6MT is the way to go.
#5170
Safety Car
Congrats on joining the 6MT crowd.
Definitely the right decision. Will you be using the J&R twin disc clutch?
You have earned a big "Attaboy" for the valiant effort with the 5AT :surrender Hopefully you will be able to sell the converter on the BM fairly easily to someone that is thinking about doing the Stage 2 cams. The Stage 2 cams cry for a loose converter.
Thanks for the race details. It was an exciting read. Awesome that he was never ahead.
Definitely the right decision. Will you be using the J&R twin disc clutch?
You have earned a big "Attaboy" for the valiant effort with the 5AT :surrender Hopefully you will be able to sell the converter on the BM fairly easily to someone that is thinking about doing the Stage 2 cams. The Stage 2 cams cry for a loose converter.
Thanks for the race details. It was an exciting read. Awesome that he was never ahead.
#5171
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^^^
#5172
Team Owner
Went for a ride last night before I head home. Pretty much beating on the tranny in every possible way lol.
Already bought a 6spd tranny so Im doing the swap. Bye bye auto
Myself and the bike were at a light and I had rodney in the car. Bike revved at me while at the light so he wanted to run. Tire spin on the top of 1st, backed off the gas a bit so the trans would shift, spinning top of 2nd, backed off again a tiny bit so I could shift, definitely slipping 3rd gear at 6000ish rpm. RPMs jump back and forth a few hundred but basically stay in the same place and the car is still accelerating. Have to shift to 4th when this happens. 4th gear grabs with no slip and pulls very hard. 16psi at 3500rpm. Backed off at 120ish at 2 car lengths ahead
There was never a moment when the bike was ahead of me. Im guessing he wasnt very good at launching that thing bc he should of definitly jumped ahead when I was spinning top of 1st. He was at my door from 1st through 2nd and I started pulling away from 70 to 120
Already bought a 6spd tranny so Im doing the swap. Bye bye auto
Myself and the bike were at a light and I had rodney in the car. Bike revved at me while at the light so he wanted to run. Tire spin on the top of 1st, backed off the gas a bit so the trans would shift, spinning top of 2nd, backed off again a tiny bit so I could shift, definitely slipping 3rd gear at 6000ish rpm. RPMs jump back and forth a few hundred but basically stay in the same place and the car is still accelerating. Have to shift to 4th when this happens. 4th gear grabs with no slip and pulls very hard. 16psi at 3500rpm. Backed off at 120ish at 2 car lengths ahead
There was never a moment when the bike was ahead of me. Im guessing he wasnt very good at launching that thing bc he should of definitly jumped ahead when I was spinning top of 1st. He was at my door from 1st through 2nd and I started pulling away from 70 to 120
Outrunning one with a slipping 3rd gear is amazing. I hate to see the auto go and I'm curious how reliable the 6mt will be. So the natural question is, what are you going to do with the high stall convertor?
#5173
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
^ The truth.
#5175
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^^^ if you dont mind me asking, how much are you looking for the high stall converter ?
#5176
18psi
iTrader: (7)
^I bought a used converter for 200 and the restall/upgrade cost 429 from import performance transmission.
1300 miles on that converter since it was broken down and upgraded. 1200 of those miles were during the break in period for the new motor. 100 boosted miles and the car is sitting now until the 6spd swap.
Ill have to think about but somewhere around 500 but dont quote me on that.
1300 miles on that converter since it was broken down and upgraded. 1200 of those miles were during the break in period for the new motor. 100 boosted miles and the car is sitting now until the 6spd swap.
Ill have to think about but somewhere around 500 but dont quote me on that.
#5177
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^^^ imma try to see if i can steal that from you....
gimme couple days to figure out....if am driving down to FL, i might get this installed at Rodney's....so no shipping/paypal charges .....lemme see how much my tax refund is gonna be and will make the decision
gimme couple days to figure out....if am driving down to FL, i might get this installed at Rodney's....so no shipping/paypal charges .....lemme see how much my tax refund is gonna be and will make the decision
#5178
Team Owner
Definitely interested. It's something I would just sit on until the trans needs a rebuilt but it would be nice to have.
#5180
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^^^ holy zoom mofo !!!
yeah, as i said, i will need some time as well....hoping it will all work out for both of us
just on a NA car, switching the stock converter with the stall converter, what changes do you expect ? some hp/tq gains in itself ?
yeah, as i said, i will need some time as well....hoping it will all work out for both of us
just on a NA car, switching the stock converter with the stall converter, what changes do you expect ? some hp/tq gains in itself ?
#5181
Team Owner
With that said, I bid $20 more than Swoosh on the converter.
#5182
Safety Car
Hey..... someone is "sitting" on some vids that they haven't shared yet? But, better late than never. Thanks for the vid Bert.
Check out those motor mounts. The motor did not move AT ALL. Are those Innovative mounts? 75, 85, 90?
Check out those motor mounts. The motor did not move AT ALL. Are those Innovative mounts? 75, 85, 90?
#5183
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Power won't and can't change from a converter. When you hit the gas from a dead stop, the rpms will rise higher, putting the engine into the powerband quicker. A NA car will see most of the benefits off the line. It *might* stop it from dropping out of vtec when it shifts to 4th. Gas mileage will take a hit around town, unaffected on the freeway. On my GN, I went from about 15 around town with a 2,400 stall to 8mpg with a 3,800 stall. Again, freeway with a lockup is unaffected.
With that said, I bid $20 more than Swoosh on the converter.
With that said, I bid $20 more than Swoosh on the converter.
but yeah you mentioned "the rpms will rise higher, putting the engine into the powerband quicker." hence am assuming on a NA you will see some TQ numbers and not dip in the TQ when VTAAAKKK is engaged....
and yeah I bet after cams (if i go that route) my mpg is gonna take a poop, so might as well....
am hoping to coupe some of that back by moderate weight loss measure
i did notice that as well....for some reason my 60A are not doughnut-ing at all....i wanted them to doughnut so i could swap em out LOL....
#5184
Team Owner
We'll see what Bert says. You were a few posts after mine.
#5186
Well crap. I really wanted to see what you could do with that Auto trans. It will be interesting to see if someone else takes what you have done and goes farther by installing those upgraded disks, and ups the line pressure some.
JR
JR
#5187
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hahaha...you asked what he was gonna do with it, i asked if he would sell it to me....buahahaha
but either way, spoke to Rodney and even if am going to FL, we can get a new one installed....so u can have the one from Bert and put it to some good use sir...
fixed thanks for the love Tim LOL
but either way, spoke to Rodney and even if am going to FL, we can get a new one installed....so u can have the one from Bert and put it to some good use sir...
fixed thanks for the love Tim LOL
#5189
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^^^ haha yeah he was bidding $20 more than me so LOL....Cant beat that bid
#5191
Team Owner
hahaha...you asked what he was gonna do with it, i asked if he would sell it to me....buahahaha
but either way, spoke to Rodney and even if am going to FL, we can get a new one installed....so u can have the one from Bert and put it to some good use sir...
fixed thanks for the love Tim LOL
but either way, spoke to Rodney and even if am going to FL, we can get a new one installed....so u can have the one from Bert and put it to some good use sir...
fixed thanks for the love Tim LOL
#5192
Team Owner
#5193
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It's not that important, I don't want to get anyone pissed off. It costs me $100 out the door to get a converter done because I still get an incredible discount from back in the day when I did that for a living. I was just thinking it would be nice to have one waiting to speed up rebuild time when the day comes and consiering the cost of a core it was a pretty good deal. You can have dibs on it especially if you want it as an upgrade, I was only going to install once the trans went out.
but in all seriousness, my tranny is doing fine @ 160K and i was thinking the same as you, keep it for an upgrade if anything goes wrong (which i doubt will)....but yeah if Rodney is coming out with something in the ECU which can control couple parameter of the tranny, then i will be all over this....
right now am just trying to get to 350-ish + loose some weight.....
#5195
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^^^ all i can imagine as well is justn very very satisfied and happy after that, some like this:
#5196
Team Owner
If you getting that kind of discount, i would rather buy from you LOL....pass on the love Matt haha
but in all seriousness, my tranny is doing fine @ 160K and i was thinking the same as you, keep it for an upgrade if anything goes wrong (which i doubt will)....but yeah if Rodney is coming out with something in the ECU which can control couple parameter of the tranny, then i will be all over this....
right now am just trying to get to 350-ish + loose some weight.....
but in all seriousness, my tranny is doing fine @ 160K and i was thinking the same as you, keep it for an upgrade if anything goes wrong (which i doubt will)....but yeah if Rodney is coming out with something in the ECU which can control couple parameter of the tranny, then i will be all over this....
right now am just trying to get to 350-ish + loose some weight.....
#5197
18psi
iTrader: (7)
So right now and in those vids I had a new 75a innovative front, old 85a innovative rear, 75a xlr8 side. The 75a front mount started doughing after a few dyno runs. By the time I left to go home it was shot
95a's are a must for the 6spd.
Like I said, it will be at least a month before the trans is pulled b.c I have to wait for the clutch to be built. First come first serve
Line pressure increase could still work. Try replacing that regulator spring with one that has less tension and experiment with adjusting the solenoids.
If I had more time in florida with my car I would have definitely messed with the solenoids since its so easy to adjust.
However, after speaking with a friend of rodneys that works with highly modded hondas, he said if you swap that spring out for one with less tension, daily drive-ability goes out the door. Shifts would become very very hard/harsh under normal driving. But on the other hand, it would be perfect for the track.
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#5198
Team Owner
That's true, high line pressure makes shifts hard all the time.... on a stock converter. The higher the stall, the softer the part throttle shifts. A high stall will really hide harsh shifts. Not that it matters right now but I thought I would throw it out there as a last ditch effort to get you to save the auto trans. It's somewhat common on some domestics to have full line pressure all the time and a full manual valvebody but with a high stall, shift firmness still increases in proportion to throttle with a more aggressive ramp up.
#5199
Burning Brakes
having a new set of problems now but this one is boggling my mind. vsa off, 3rd gear pull....this causes the vsa light to come on. Im talking about the letters "VSA" come up on the dash. only way to get rid of it is to turn the car off. when the vsa letters come up, i cannot downshift into 3rd from 4th if im going above 70mph. at 69mph and slower, i can downshift from 3rd to 4th. when i try to downshift above 70mph, the number 3 blinks a few times and goes back to 4th. Whats that about? Anyone have any idea why the vsa letters would come on in the first place? Ive never had those letters pop up before
I still have a lot scenarios to try out in the different gears to see how every thing reacts. it seems like when the vsa letters are on, 4th gear wot runs bog all over the place.
there might be some bad news regarding the trans but ill get into that tommorow.
long ass day
spoke to level 10 transmissions about line pressure, soleniods, clutches and so on...
scroll back several pages or so when we were talking about the tq converter, regulator spring and stator...
level 10 said to in order to increase line pressure in the early rpm range you need to change out the regulator spring to one with less tension. He recommended about 75% less tension then stock for my setup with 15psi. That "should" give full or close to full line pressure in the lower rpms where it feels like im experiencing the sliipping.
level 10 also said that after swapping the spring I should adjust the soleniods on top of the trans by 1/4 turn at a time. He said adjusting the soleniods WITHOUT swapping the spring first probably wouldnt do anything. Reminds of that thread a few years ago about the guy adjusting the soleniods on his stock tl and needed that special tool from sonex
Finally, they said raybestos now offers clutches for the tl. raybestos honda gpx clutches
http://www.raybestospowertrain.com/r...=55&Itemid=237
level 10 and raybestos recommend dw1 fluid with these clutches. I talked about my use of type f so far and he had nothing bad to say about it but noted that raybestos recommended dw1
I wish I would of known about this fu*cking spring when I did the converter swap. Might have prevented all this.
scroll back several pages or so when we were talking about the tq converter, regulator spring and stator...
level 10 said to in order to increase line pressure in the early rpm range you need to change out the regulator spring to one with less tension. He recommended about 75% less tension then stock for my setup with 15psi. That "should" give full or close to full line pressure in the lower rpms where it feels like im experiencing the sliipping.
level 10 also said that after swapping the spring I should adjust the soleniods on top of the trans by 1/4 turn at a time. He said adjusting the soleniods WITHOUT swapping the spring first probably wouldnt do anything. Reminds of that thread a few years ago about the guy adjusting the soleniods on his stock tl and needed that special tool from sonex
Finally, they said raybestos now offers clutches for the tl. raybestos honda gpx clutches
http://www.raybestospowertrain.com/r...=55&Itemid=237
level 10 and raybestos recommend dw1 fluid with these clutches. I talked about my use of type f so far and he had nothing bad to say about it but noted that raybestos recommended dw1
I wish I would of known about this fu*cking spring when I did the converter swap. Might have prevented all this.
Just out of curiosity Bert did you still have only TypeF fluid in there? or had you already converted to the new Mixture range that InACCurate has talked about for running optimal fluid mix for the 5at's
I only ask this cuz when i was running the lightweight typeF fluid I got the third gear slippage and did get VSA to come on once and vehicle would not let me go into SS mode and only way to get rid of VSA light was to shut car off and turn it back on!! So this is only reason I ask as I had similar VSA issue when running pure lightweight TypeF fluid in there.