Originally Posted by I hate cars

None of those look bad. The variance is likely due to air distribution in the intake manifold. This is another reason not to tune to "the edge". You might have an overall race tune AF ratio of 13:1 but you could have one cylinder that's 14:1 and another that's 12:1.

Oil is almost surely from the turbo. Next time you pull the plugs, give it a few good runs first and then shut it down (after appropriate cool down of course). The plugs will probably be perfect. Remember, you're running quite a bit richer on average than stock so slightly dark plugs are fine.

As for the type of plugs, please don't take this as an insult to anyone because it's not... But the turbo Honda guys are the last group I would follow. They're about 15 years behind in the tech arena. You don't necessarily need to get the AC Delco brand but it's usually best to go with a plain copper plug with large center electrode for the higher hp applications. I know some turbo cars come with iridiums because they do work but they're not necessarily the best for performance.

Last, are you getting boost past the PCV valve?

Originally Posted by NVA-AV6

+1 on the PCV valve, the stock honda ones are nto real stron especially under boost conditions. For my SC builds I usually put a catch can on it and route it to the intake side of the SC.

Originally Posted by libert69

was speaking to rodney about plugs and he tried using regular copper plugs 2 steps colder with a resistor when he was tuning that 550whp white tl (that crashed 2 weeks after it was finished). the car ran fine on the dyno but when it hit the street it wouldnt rev past 5000 (or something like that) and it was causing some problems with the ms3 ecu.

he switched to the ngk 2668 iridium and everything worked fine without changing anything else.

what does "boost pass the pcv valve" mean exactly? blow by?

if so, then no. i still have the oem pcv valve in place and we also welded a -10 bung off the front and rear valve covers that runs to a catch can. theres a breather tube that that comes off the can and pulls in air from the turbo inlet.

catch can is dry



a while back i had a small little catch can hooked up in between the stock pcv breather tube. now, the tube is still in stock location

im wondering if i should remove the stock pcv tube and cap off the front valve cover and manifold since im running a catch can off the other sides of the front and rear valve covers?

Originally Posted by I hate cars

Regular copper plugs causing an issue like that is all but impossible. It was probably a variable that was overlooked such as the gap. Regular copper is all I run in my TL. Obviously ignition demands are quite a bit lower in mine but no issues with misfires. If the plugs you have are working, no need to change and I don't think there's any hp to be gained by changing plugs with a mild street tune. But under most conditions, the copper plug will be less prone to detonation and will last longer with some exceptions.

Originally Posted by I hate cars

About the PCV, what I'm talking about is the valve not holding so you end up pressurizing the crank case with boost. This would explain both the valve cover leak and the turbo drain issue. It would also make it more likely to get oil past the rings.

You can go to just a breather setup and no PCV. Just be sure to change the oil more often as without a crossflow with fresh air, acids are going to build up quicker. With more frequent oil changes and since you're running a great oil already it won't hurt anything.

Originally Posted by I hate cars

There's an upgraded PCV valve that's rated to hold over 30psi of boost for the GNs. I'm sure you could get it to work on the TL. Back when I was looking for this stuff, the GN "heavy duty" PCV was the only one around. There might be some Honda specific ones now, if anyone would know, it would be NVA-AV6. You can imagine the problem of 17psi blowing through a 1/2" hose (or whatever size the PCV hose is) into the crank case.

Originally Posted by NVA-AV6

Not for these cars, it is a weak plastic piece made specifically for our valve covers. The tubing is only 5/16" for the PCV system.

On my SC setups there are several things that I make damn sure are connected to the inlet side to protect them from boost. EVAP, PCV, Brake Booster, and Breather. Yes it's a PITA, but it saves alot of headaches down the road. Now for you turbo guys I would look into maybe a vac manifold connected to the brake booster connection with a upgraded checkvalve between it and the intake. It's the little crap like this that makes major mods work for the long haul.

Originally Posted by NVA-AV6

Not for these cars, it is a weak plastic piece made specifically for our valve covers. The tubing is only 5/16" for the PCV system.

On my SC setups there are several things that I make damn sure are connected to the inlet side to protect them from boost. EVAP, PCV, Brake Booster, and Breather. Yes it's a PITA, but it saves alot of headaches down the road. Now for you turbo guys I would look into maybe a vac manifold connected to the brake booster connection with a upgraded checkvalve between it and the intake. It's the little crap like this that makes major mods work for the long haul.

Originally Posted by rptls08

i know this is a little off topic from your current discussion but i need some azine insight on a decision i am struggling to make and i dont want to start another thread so i apologize in advance for thread jacking.

i am SERIOUSLY debating if i should turbo my 08 type S or if i should take that money (saved up enough to do the full turbo build) and start a time attack project car on another platform probably an IS300. my current "direction" with the TL is VIP but id love to have a VIP style car that can really haul ass. i already understand that taking on another project car would be alot more money than a turbo type s but at the same time its something that i can work towards for a long time. most people (non-aziners) are telling me to start another car but no one I have talked to understands what its like to have a turbo TL except for you guys so i thought id ask.

ive been following this thread on and off since day 1 and i have to admit that i am extremely impressed by some of the numbers you guys have achieved.

any thoughts guys?

Originally Posted by KN_TL

IMHO, things like stiffer motor mounts takes the luxury out of the ride.

If you want to go get dressed up and go to a nice place, you'll smell like you just came from a dyno session.

I don't regret doing this but I know if someone jumped in my car, I know their first reaction will be WTF. Then I'll scare the daylights out of them.

Originally Posted by I hate cars

Oil.

Originally Posted by libert69

ill bump this for anyone who may know how to get these spark plug seals fully in without damaging them.

i got them fully seated, take a closer look under the lip and they all have slight tears in them

Originally Posted by NVA-AV6

Put a little oil on them where they contact the spark plug tubes and when putting the valve cover on use your finger to make sure they are around the outside of the tubes. DO NOT force the valve cover down until you are 100% that the seals are around the outside of the tube.

Originally Posted by libert69

got it. i wound up using some lucas assembly grease i had

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...d=291&loc=show

when setting the cover, the seals should be in the number 2 position right?

Originally Posted by libert69

i made my own. it attaches to the passenger head rest and basically sits eye level over the center console arm rest



yes, i took the check valve out. i went back and forth debating if i should and it boiled down to this (after talking to a 2 people that have had the twin disk for a while)...

heres their words

TLDREAM (N/A j35 swapped prelude)
I love the clutch. On my prelude it kind of killed the streetability of the car. I had the check valve removed at first, and with solid mounts, it made it a little rough to drive in stop and go traffic.

I just put a new slave cylinder on the car with the check valve still in it, and it returned much of the driveability. I would leave the checkvalve in. With the TL's built in dampaner in the master cylinder, and the checkvavle intact, it will make for a much less harsh engagement. Shouldnt be to bad for stop and go.

BMEYER (built j36 motor w/turbo)
I could see Rich's (TLDream) view about the check valve, but keep in mind that he's not pushing the sort of numbers that we are. He can afford to deal with a little bit of slippage because it's an all around stronger clutch than the stock setup. In our case, if we try to apply the power before the clutch is fully hooked up, we're going to burn up parts like crazy. That's the last thing
I want to do with a $2k clutch and flywheel.

so after that, i decided to have no check valve from the beginning. it is a little rough to drive this thing in stop and go but i guess thats another trade off if you want big power.

Originally Posted by KN_TL

Is welding the fittings to the valve covers the only way to go or can the covers be drilled/tapped and then use an NPT to AN fitting? Also thinking of using a fuel tank bulkhead fitting on my intake tube instead of getting everything tig'd.

Originally Posted by NVA-AV6

I have done both.

Originally Posted by KN_TL

So I do this correctly......

Run the two valve covers to the catch can and it runs to the intake side of the turbo.

Run the brake booster to the intake side of the turbo.

All of the lines going to external MAP sensors (WMI, MS3 and Boost Gauge) and Blowoff Valve to the intake fitting?

What about the existing PCV valve and cross piping on the belt side?

Where would the check valve be placed that you mention?

Right now, all I have is a small air filter on the rear valve cover where I removed the hose that went from it to the intake. Everything else is in place and all of the vacuum lines are tied together along with the factory location for the brake booster hose.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by I hate cars

Brake booster must go to engine side of the throttle body, somewhere on the intake manifold. PCV to function correctly must go on the manifold. The only thing that will work pre-turbo is a fresh air source since there's no real vacuum there.

Originally Posted by KN_TL

What is it that Paul is mentioning about isolating these things from boost?

Originally Posted by KN_TL

So I do this correctly......

Run the two valve covers to the catch can and it runs to the intake side of the turbo.

Run the brake booster to the intake side of the turbo.

All of the lines going to external MAP sensors (WMI, MS3 and Boost Gauge) and Blowoff Valve to the intake fitting?

What about the existing PCV valve and cross piping on the belt side?

Where would the check valve be placed that you mention?

Right now, all I have is a small air filter on the rear valve cover where I removed the hose that went from it to the intake. Everything else is in place and all of the vacuum lines are tied together along with the factory location for the brake booster hose.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by libert69

service manual says there is a check valve already built in to the brake booster vacuum hose

Originally Posted by helmsrj

So you are upgrading the internals? Are all of these items being made custom? Will they be available to others?

Originally Posted by NVA-AV6

Yes, but it is just a piece of plastic and was not designed to see "pressure" from the mani, only vacume.

Originally Posted by helmsrj

So I am new to this thread. Anyone want to give me a quick rundown on the issues found so far with the turbo kit? I am planning on doing this when I reaturn from Afghanistan around January.

Originally Posted by Hi speed

None, car runs great. Very civilized in town and a monster when you open it up. The issue I see for you will be getting a kit since the guy who made them has fucked off his business, keeping anyone in their right mind from buying anything from him. One or two turbo kits might show up for sale in our used parts market called the black market, but the few who have them are not likely to give them up. That said, thank you for your service and I am happy to answer any questions you have either by private message or in a thread.

Originally Posted by helmsrj

I asked because I did not see the parts on BisiMoto's page. There is 140 pages in here so nope I have not quite read them all yet. It is still in progress.