justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Ive been waiting over 6 months for my ECU.
I paid in full.
some one wanted a refund, because of the wait.
but there isnt any money left to give the refund

just bad general business practices.
Hope, I dont get jipped.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^

fuck yeah you got jipped....jipped of 6 months LOL....

but yeah i wish we all would have gotten/installed the ECU and be happy about that transaction...

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

Check out the J&R ECU group buy thread, I would guess J&R is done for acurazine atleast.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I'm pretty sure he doesn't run with an inventory and I don't think he'll go out of business.

He did lose a lot of integrity with people here but it still remains that he and his associates can do things with this platform that no one to date has accomplished.

Really? Didn't Bert use his existing piping? Do you have the V2 version that won't work with the swap?

libert69

iTrader: (7)

do share

yea i did....not sure why spade wants new pipes.?.?

im glad i kept my pipes b.c i have a 3" downpipe. for some reason the newer kits have 2.5" dp

libert69

iTrader: (7)

the leak i was having that was coming from the center housing bolts is still there. however, i havent started the car since i pulled the turbo 2 weeks ago.

2 days ago, i tightened down all the bolts on the turbo...next day, there is the same leak that is coming out of the bottom bolts. kicker is, there has been no new oil flowing through the turbo.

guess im sending this thing to precision eventually.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

If he still has the crossover under the oil pan then a 2 1/2 inch pipe would fit nicely right next to it. As it is now, the downpipe hangs a lower. I don't know about you but I have hit it coming out of parking lots with dips.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

One of the reasons I keep my car at stock height and haven't installed my coils.

Inaccurate

I resisted getting coilovers for a long time. I thought I didn't need them with my lightweight car. Big mistake. I was wrong and wished that I had got coilovers a long time ago.

Having a stiff suspension does wonders for this car having this much power. If you have the power.... which you do.... you really owe it to yourself to get a stiff suspension to have the handling to match that HP.

Adjusting the coilovers for a stiff suspension is independent of ride height. That is, you can still keep an oem ride height but have massively stiff ride.

I highly recommend the BC Racing brand.

Inaccurate

Bert,

Damn, that looks sharp buddy. Go and Show !

Thanks for sharing.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

update?

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

Isn't the TYPE-S trany almost the same as base 04-06 manual? I know the 3rd n 4th gear they changed to stop the infamous "pop out", but other then that, not sure whats up your selves to spend money on a new block and transmission..

600hp ... I hope you have upgraded axels and good tires..


do share

libert69

iTrader: (7)

trying to figure out why the car idles so high (1800)

couple things.

I have a catch can coming off the two valve covers with a breather hose to the turbo inlet. There is also a small air filter to vent to the atmosphere on top of the catch can

After I put the valve covers/manifold etc back on the car after polishing, I capped off and sealed the nipple on the valve cover and manifold where oem pcv rubber hose was. Figured I dont need it anymore. When its setup like this, the car idles around 900. For the first week it ran fine. Now, after 5-6 minutes of idling, the idle will start to bounce and the car will usually stall. Sometimes it catches itself and stabilizes. After the car has been driven for a little bit and is hot, the idle will SOMETIMES stay steady at 900. Other times it will bounce then stall

If i leave the oem pcv hose in place (while still using my catch can/breather setup) the car idles around 1700-2000. It wont stall and its actually so much easier to drive at low speeds. There is no bucking/bogging and the shifts are much much smoother. But that is way too high to be idling

I have the timing at idle set to 16 degrees. When the idle timing was set to 10 degrees, 30 seconds after the car was started, the idle would bounce from 600-1500. Setting to 16 degrees stopped that and kept it steady

If i slowly bring down the timing while idling, the rpms will drop a few hundred but not much.

If i keep taking out fuel the rpms will drop a little more. When I get my wideband to read 18.0 at idle and bring the timing down to 12, the idle is around 1400.

Plugs are gapped to .019. Ive read that too small a gap can cause a high idle but all the other TL owners running the ms3 have a high idle as well(maybe 1200ish)

I checked all my hoses and there doesnt seem to be a vacuum leak anywhere.

If i have the oem pcv hose connected while the car is idling, and i slowly squeeze the hose closed, the idle starts to fall but remains steady.

Cant think of anything else that I tried.

I hate cars

High idle (not caused by the ECU) would be a leak somewhere after the throttlebody. Any vacuum lines going into the intake manifold been changed up or blown off recently? All of my vacuum lines are zip-tied for this very reason. The stock PCV meters the air. If you have changed the size or removed it altogether or if the check ball "breaks" it can cause the high idle.

The hunting for idle can be from many different things but it's most likely related to the high idle. A bad MAP sensor would be suspect. A blown off vacuum line to the MAP sensor would cause both issues.

I know it's a simple issue but I'm too tired to think right now. For what it's worth, a lean idle will make it hunt.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

My idle is fine at 750. I think IHC is right and you have a vacuum leak somewhere.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

Im not sure if its the ms3 causing the idle problem. I believe most of the guys that are n/a with the ecu are dealing with a high idle (1200 and bouncy). I can live with 1200 no problem. Gets rid of the vibrations from the 95a mounts. But 1500+ is no good

I double and tripled checked all my vacuum lines after i buttoned everything back up. I also use zip ties on everything as well.

I dont have a code for a bad map sensor. I have a spare map sensor laying around from an accord tb that ive heard works on the TL. Ill swap that over and see if it helps.

I have 2 cel's that have pretty much been there since I got the car. Rocker arm and evap emissions high input. Sometimes o2 codes and output speed sensor code pops up.

Pulled the pcv valve and I can hear the little bearing moving when i shake it.

I can hear a hissing noise coming from what I think is the stock pcv rubber hose. When I slowly squeeze it shut with my fingers while idling, the hissing noise gets quieter and eventually stops when i squeeze the hose shut completely. I checked the hose for cracks and it looks fine. I even swapped the oem clamps for worm gear clamps to get a better a seal and still the same.

So knowing what happens with the pcv rubber hose when i squeeze it shut (idle drops)....and knowing that closing off the pcv nipples on the valve cover and IM with rubber caps and clamps (idles around 900-1200 but sometimes stalls)...it looks like a pcv issue/leak.?.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

I know you have a tune made by someone besides rodney...how much timing are you running at idle ?

whats the gap on your plugs?

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I am not sure about the plugs, but I will check timing at idle when I get a chance.

I hate cars

It's a long shot but with the codes it's throwing, I would check all battery and grounding connections. Is there a chance it's stuck in vtec? On stock cams it probably wouldn't matter. If you have the larger Bisimoto cams it might. I'm still pretty sure it's an air leak whether it's through the PCV system or an actual air leak.

Since the car sees boost now, you can push an intake manifold gasket out. Spray water all over the top of the engine and see if the idle comes down momentarily.

Plugs will cause a misfire before they cause any other problems.

Do you have a vacuum routing diagram or pictures for the retards like me that can't understand exactly how your PCV system is routed?

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I looked at timing at idle and both cold and warm it jumps around a lot. Warm seemed to be between 7- 10 degrees advanced. Cold seemed to be -10 to 10.

I hate cars

The timing is used to maintain a steady idle so it will jump around a lot when you look at it on the scanner. It can react nearly instantly to rpm changes where the DBW is quick but not as quick as the timing. DBW is used for the larger changes, timing is used for instant but small changes in idle speed.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Bert, by any change do you have a 2012 TB which is bored out ???

Member have experienced issues with 2012 TB and the ECU...particularly if the TB has been bored out....I know Andy made some changes to the ECU map which fixed the "sticky" throttle issue....

I have no idea if you have the same issues but just wanted to put it out there

I hate cars

That's a great idea . I wonder which 1 he has

libert69

iTrader: (7)

battery and grounds are good. the rocker arm code is there b.c of the lower vtec engagement point. I have the type-s cams.

i put a new im gasket and im cover gasket last week

heres some pics of the setup

libert69

iTrader: (7)

u cant really trust an obd scanner for your timing at idle if thats what you were looking at. do you have a copy of your tune file on your computer?

check the ignition map for the 700-1200 rpm range

libert69

iTrader: (7)

i still have a stock 04 tb.

when your mentioned sticky throttle i realized something...

if i start the car (whether cold or warm start) and let it idle for 10 seconds or 10 minutes, the idle will stay at 1100-1200. as soon as i tap the throttle, the rpms will now stay steady at 1500-1600 rpms.

ill have to check the throttle position value to see if it stays above what it normally would sit at after the car is started.

edit- found the post that gerzand made about the sticky throttle. he says it applies to stock tb's also and a rising idle is related to the tune file. ill see what he says

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I'm wondering if he's referring to using 16x16 maps. Of all the files people have sent me, JoeyTL's tuner is the only one to have refactored it to use the larger map.

I haven't had the time to completely understand the map generator and it's relation to the required fuel number.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ Are any of you using LiveTune? do you think that can/will solve this issue (other than Andy's fix?)

Inaccurate

Damn, Bert.... this pic is so kick-ass !!!! It looks like a pic from the cover of a car modding magazine. Damn well done my friend

pohljm

^ +100!

Majofo

Shit bert.. need to get some sponsors and take this to the next level..

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I hate cars

That is the best looking engine bay I've seen on here. It looks clean and high tech and funcitonal without being cluttered with every item from a JC Whitney magazine.

I think this car could get sponsors no doubt. From the looks to the craftsmanship to the power.

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

^agreed to the max. picture perfect engine bay. love the chrome and blue accents a lot.

well done, bert.

pearlUA7

Hey twin clutch guys, anymore new updates on the install and f up's? It's probably going in today. Liberty, you figure out your clearance issue yet? Scale from 1-10 how big of a pita is it to drive it without the checkvalve?

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Bert's issue appears to be unique with the clearances and grinding down the teeth in the disc appeared to be an install issue.

Can't comment on the drivability yet. Life keeps getting in the way of working in the garage.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

thanks guys..appreciate it

back to the idle. still waiting to hear back from gerzand about the tune

cold start...idle sits at 1100 steady and does not bounce/hunt. it will idle like that until i touch the gas. throttle position is 11%

as soon as you hit the gas, the rpms sit at 1500-1600 and throttle position is now stuck at 12.9% and will not go back down until the car is shut off.

i have no idea if this ecu related but i do know that this problem didnt happen weeks ago...and the tune doesnt change

wondering why the throttle position doesnt go back down to 11%.

if it was a bad sensor it should be throwing a code right?

the only thing i can thing of now is when i put the throttle body back together after it came back from polishing.

i had to re-set the 2 screws inside the tb. i took a bunch of pics before taking it apart so i could put it back the same way.

this screw


and this one


i used this tooth as a guide to line up the screws. pretty sure i got it right. could this be a cause of the idle problem if the screw is in-correct?

libert69

iTrader: (7)

would also like to add that while idling the a/f is set to be in the 13's. once the gas is pressed and the idle now sits at 1600, a/f is in the 16s. the same fuel settings/numbers are being used for both of those rpm speeds ....confused...

swapped in my original throttle body and im getting a p2101 code for stuck tb. about 15 seconds after the car is started, rpms jump to about 3000 and it throws the code.

i swapped the internals from the polished tb to original tb along with both sensors and it still throws the code. the original tb is pretty dirty so im guessing the gunk is making it stick.

libert69

iTrader: (7)

adjusted the tb screws quite a few times and didnt do anything. pretty sure this is ecu related.....

GERZAND where are you