Turbo Kit for Acura TL '04-'08
10-19-2010, 11:39 AM
#4162
Burning Brakes
For a quick setup at the track I'd remove the middle piece on the trunk where the plate is mounted already, have it hooked up in trunk so as u get to the track just remove the center piece on trunk and mount it up real quick zipties work this way if they don't ask to open hood just keep it moving if they do ask no biggy takes five minurea and ur good to go
10-19-2010, 01:34 PM
#4164
Team Owner
I wish I could do that. There's nothing like rolling through with a crowd of 200 people and open exhaust and then some idiot friend running over and shutting the car off. That's when I came up with the idea of the jumper for street use.
10-19-2010, 07:27 PM
#4166
Team Owner
It was funny but it would've been funnier if it wasn't my car lol.
10-19-2010, 08:17 PM
#4168
Team Owner
Good luck! I'm really excited to find out what your car runs. I predict 12.7@116mph for the first time out with the potential to go bottom 12s@119mph.
10-19-2010, 08:34 PM
#4170
Good idea
10-19-2010, 11:07 PM
#4171
Burning Brakes
Most techs will do this. I hope you do get in to run. I'm guessing mid 13s@108mph with a traction inhibited 2.4-2.6 60'.
10-19-2010, 11:29 PM
#4172
Team Owner
Never had a problem with them shaking it. As long as the hold down looks secure they usually won't mess with it. I've forgotten the hold down when it was a real battery and they let me get away with a couple of those stretch strap things but that was probably a one time thing.
10-20-2010, 10:37 PM
#4174
Team Owner
Can't wait for the update.
Are there any 12 second TLs out there?
Are there any 12 second TLs out there?
10-20-2010, 10:50 PM
#4175
NOPE 
But it was still fun. 
Best run was 13.883@107 with a disgusting 60' of 2.63.
60' killed my time. Nothing I could do about it. I had 3 runs. Each run the 60' improved by .1.
Powerbraking did nothing. Slightly powerbraking did nothing. Gas to the floor was the best 60' run. Im sure if the 60' could get to atleast 2.1 I would definitely see 12's
The car felt strong all night. Then on the ride home had a run with a 370z with atleast an exhaust. 60mph to 120. Beat him by 3-4 car lengths. The power up top is definitely there. Getting off the line is really bad with the auto
So heres the empty battery box I built with a bracket and a tray that is very sturdy. The tech asked, "Do you have a t/c, s/c or nitrous?" I said no and he waved me through LOL
Atleast I have it for next time
But it was still fun. Best run was 13.883@107 with a disgusting 60' of 2.63.
60' killed my time. Nothing I could do about it. I had 3 runs. Each run the 60' improved by .1.
Powerbraking did nothing. Slightly powerbraking did nothing. Gas to the floor was the best 60' run. Im sure if the 60' could get to atleast 2.1 I would definitely see 12's
The car felt strong all night. Then on the ride home had a run with a 370z with atleast an exhaust. 60mph to 120. Beat him by 3-4 car lengths. The power up top is definitely there. Getting off the line is really bad with the auto
So heres the empty battery box I built with a bracket and a tray that is very sturdy. The tech asked, "Do you have a t/c, s/c or nitrous?" I said no and he waved me through LOL
Atleast I have it for next time
10-20-2010, 11:06 PM
#4177
Team Owner
I've got to give it to DaveB tonight. He called it.
You'll get there. As I've said before, my first run with my "10 second" combo was a high 12.
107mph is good for easy bottom 13s on street tire in a FWD.
Were there any traction problems or were you mashing it to the floor and going? I think it's time to really start looking into using the e-brake to build a little boost.
Maybe lean out the low end and pull some timing at low rpms which should greatly help spoo.
Was this at 8psi or 10?
You should be able to get easy 116mph trap speeds with the current combo on a good tune and a little more boost.
I hope you try again. It took me no less than 20 runs to get in the ballpark I'm in now. You'll hit the 12s with the current combo guaranteed with a little practice. I wish I lived in the area so I could give a hand even if it's pushing the car.
No matter what you ran, you made it to the track so to you. Congrats on a fast TL.
You'll get there. As I've said before, my first run with my "10 second" combo was a high 12.
107mph is good for easy bottom 13s on street tire in a FWD.
Were there any traction problems or were you mashing it to the floor and going? I think it's time to really start looking into using the e-brake to build a little boost.
Maybe lean out the low end and pull some timing at low rpms which should greatly help spoo.
Was this at 8psi or 10?
You should be able to get easy 116mph trap speeds with the current combo on a good tune and a little more boost.
I hope you try again. It took me no less than 20 runs to get in the ballpark I'm in now. You'll hit the 12s with the current combo guaranteed with a little practice. I wish I lived in the area so I could give a hand even if it's pushing the car.
No matter what you ran, you made it to the track so
to you. Congrats on a fast TL.
10-20-2010, 11:17 PM
#4179
I've got to give it to DaveB tonight. He called it.
You'll get there. As I've said before, my first run with my "10 second" combo was a high 12.
107mph is good for easy bottom 13s on street tire in a FWD.
Were there any traction problems or were you mashing it to the floor and going? I think it's time to really start looking into using the e-brake to build a little boost.
Maybe lean out the low end and pull some timing at low rpms which should greatly help spoo.
Was this at 8psi or 10?
You should be able to get easy 116mph trap speeds with the current combo on a good tune and a little more boost.
I hope you try again. It took me no less than 20 runs to get in the ballpark I'm in now. You'll hit the 12s with the current combo guaranteed with a little practice. I wish I lived in the area so I could give a hand even if it's pushing the car.
No matter what you ran, you made it to the track so to you. Congrats on a fast TL.
You'll get there. As I've said before, my first run with my "10 second" combo was a high 12.
107mph is good for easy bottom 13s on street tire in a FWD.
Were there any traction problems or were you mashing it to the floor and going? I think it's time to really start looking into using the e-brake to build a little boost.
Maybe lean out the low end and pull some timing at low rpms which should greatly help spoo.
Was this at 8psi or 10?
You should be able to get easy 116mph trap speeds with the current combo on a good tune and a little more boost.
I hope you try again. It took me no less than 20 runs to get in the ballpark I'm in now. You'll hit the 12s with the current combo guaranteed with a little practice. I wish I lived in the area so I could give a hand even if it's pushing the car.
No matter what you ran, you made it to the track so
to you. Congrats on a fast TL.I was trying to bring the rpms up as high as possible and in the best run of the night i hit the rev limiter in 2nd and 3rd then shifted. That hurt my time also I bet.
The best run was with a max psi of 10.8 on the controller.
I tried the E-brake building boost method in the parking lot and it wasnt working either. Once the rpms got over 1800 I started to creep forward. And yes IHC, I did bed my e-brake in 2 weeks ago after reading your post
10-20-2010, 11:18 PM
#4180
Team Owner
Looks great. The big one, no water in the oil and no signs of fuel dilution so the tune must be pretty good.
Insoluables look good so whatever you're running for a filter seems to be doing the job.
As they said, silicone could be from sealers but the biggest source is usually from bad air filtration....
The TBN of 4.6 is extremely good for an ester based oil. Many times that's the starting TBN and it's still ok to run it down to 1. Esters will generally start with a much lower TBN.
Viscosity is spot on. It didn't thin or thicken at all.
Tons of zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) for anti-wear as you can see compared to universal averages.
Tons of moly for anti-wear/anti-friction reduction.
Wear metals although completely insignificant in this type of test look awesome for this oil. I expected iron to be double to triple that number. This must be your 3rd or 4th change??
It's extremely rare to see 0 lead or tin which would be bearing wear. I would consider this a VERY good thing.
The ester is going to always show a ton of iron and copper because it cleans oxidation and oxidation shows up as wear in this test.
The oil has tons of life left but again you still have the contaminates to deal with. Is your mileage really 124,000?
Insoluables look good so whatever you're running for a filter seems to be doing the job.
As they said, silicone could be from sealers but the biggest source is usually from bad air filtration....
The TBN of 4.6 is extremely good for an ester based oil. Many times that's the starting TBN and it's still ok to run it down to 1. Esters will generally start with a much lower TBN.
Viscosity is spot on. It didn't thin or thicken at all.
Tons of zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) for anti-wear as you can see compared to universal averages.
Tons of moly for anti-wear/anti-friction reduction.
Wear metals although completely insignificant in this type of test look awesome for this oil. I expected iron to be double to triple that number. This must be your 3rd or 4th change??
It's extremely rare to see 0 lead or tin which would be bearing wear. I would consider this a VERY good thing.
The ester is going to always show a ton of iron and copper because it cleans oxidation and oxidation shows up as wear in this test.
The oil has tons of life left but again you still have the contaminates to deal with. Is your mileage really 124,000?
10-20-2010, 11:20 PM
#4181
I forgot the first run.
The second run I had it setup and I clicked start when I was a few cars back but afterwards I checked the log and it only recorded a few seconds
The third and last run I was busy playing with the boost controller to turn the boost up and didnt have time to set the laptop up. I think I got the last run of the night since the they were closing
10-20-2010, 11:23 PM
#4182
Team Owner
The tires spun a little bit when I floored the gas at first but that was about it. I forgot to add. I was using SS mode for gears 2, 3 and 4 since Ive been bouncing off the rev limiter in 2nd almost all the time when in auto.
I was trying to bring the rpms up as high as possible and in the best run of the night i hit the rev limiter in 2nd and 3rd then shifted. That hurt my time also I bet.
The best run was with a max psi of 10.8 on the controller.
I tried the E-brake building boost method in the parking lot and it wasnt working either. Once the rpms got over 1800 I started to creep forward. And yes IHC, I did bed my e-brake in 2 weeks ago after reading your post
I was trying to bring the rpms up as high as possible and in the best run of the night i hit the rev limiter in 2nd and 3rd then shifted. That hurt my time also I bet.
The best run was with a max psi of 10.8 on the controller.
I tried the E-brake building boost method in the parking lot and it wasnt working either. Once the rpms got over 1800 I started to creep forward. And yes IHC, I did bed my e-brake in 2 weeks ago after reading your post
When it creeped forward, was it dragging the rear locked up or just overpowering the e-brake. It may not help much because even though my e-brake is strong, my bone stock TL will drag the locked up rear tires. Can you tell that the ECU lets the throttle go higher with the e-brake vs regular brakes?
I would have thought 10.8psi would definately have gone low teens mph at least. Do you have a separate boost guage from the controller? I just know there's something holding this car back. Hopefully it's not the torque convertor.
Sorry for all the questions, it's just got me excited with some real runs at the track. It's making me really want to turbo my TL and get out there.
10-20-2010, 11:26 PM
#4183
125000 tonight lol
I never really wanted to say anything about the miles since if I had a some type of failure with the car people would blame the turbo and the miles. But after 6000miles of boost Im having no problems
10-20-2010, 11:34 PM
#4184
Interesting.
When it creeped forward, was it dragging the rear locked up or just overpowering the e-brake. It may not help much because even though my e-brake is strong, my bone stock TL will drag the locked up rear tires. Can you tell that the ECU lets the throttle go higher with the e-brake vs regular brakes?
I would have thought 10.8psi would definately have gone low teens mph at least. Do you have a separate boost guage from the controller? I just know there's something holding this car back. Hopefully it's not the torque convertor.
Sorry for all the questions, it's just got me excited with some real runs at the track. It's making me really want to turbo my TL and get out there.
When it creeped forward, was it dragging the rear locked up or just overpowering the e-brake. It may not help much because even though my e-brake is strong, my bone stock TL will drag the locked up rear tires. Can you tell that the ECU lets the throttle go higher with the e-brake vs regular brakes?
I would have thought 10.8psi would definately have gone low teens mph at least. Do you have a separate boost guage from the controller? I just know there's something holding this car back. Hopefully it's not the torque convertor.
Sorry for all the questions, it's just got me excited with some real runs at the track. It's making me really want to turbo my TL and get out there.
Boost gauge/controller combo
I didnt even want to mention my other 2 garbage runs but I might as well.
On the first 2 runs with 8.5psi I ran a 14.35@107.3 2.7 60' and 14.4@107 2.8 60'
All 3 runs had the same trap.Even bumping the psi 2lbs kept the same trap but a different et. Aint that some shit
10-21-2010, 12:48 AM
#4185
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Great update Bert!
@ fake battery
@ fake battery
10-21-2010, 01:03 AM
#4186
Safety Car
With a flashlight, look up in there and disconnect the brake light switch wiring connector.
I checked the wiring diagram and the brake switch does go to the ecu. So, there is a good chance that the ecu is cutting the throttle due to the brake being applied.
I agree. Not like some lazy members here ... but I won't name any names (cough, Inaccurate).
If it was me, I would had gave-up instead of battling the battery cut-off. Props for Getting Her Done !
After I finish my Nitrous Methanol install, I doubt they would even allow me into the parking lot.
Last edited by Inaccurate; 10-21-2010 at 01:07 AM.
10-21-2010, 01:10 AM
#4187
Another option is to remove that plastic panel under the dash near your knee.
With a flashlight, look up in there and disconnect the brake light switch wiring connector.
I checked the wiring diagram and the brake switch does go to the ecu. So, there is a good chance that the ecu is cutting the throttle due to the brake being applied.
I agree. Not like some lazy members here ... but I won't name any names (cough, Inaccurate).
If it was me, I would had gave-up instead of battling the battery cut-off. Props for Getting Her Done !
After I finish me Nitrous Methanol install, I doubt they would even allow me into the parking lot.
With a flashlight, look up in there and disconnect the brake light switch wiring connector.
I checked the wiring diagram and the brake switch does go to the ecu. So, there is a good chance that the ecu is cutting the throttle due to the brake being applied.
I agree. Not like some lazy members here ... but I won't name any names (cough, Inaccurate).
If it was me, I would had gave-up instead of battling the battery cut-off. Props for Getting Her Done !
After I finish me Nitrous Methanol install, I doubt they would even allow me into the parking lot.
At the track, it seemed like if your car looked stock then they did not press the issue about your mods. Just say no lol. It would be worth it. I had a lot fun. Nervous at first but a real rush
I really know nothing about nitrous but would something like a 30 shot get me off line much better then waiting for the turbo to spool?
10-21-2010, 01:45 AM
#4188
Safety Car
^ Whoops. I forgot to say that removing the brake switch is for the track only because your brake lights will not work with the connector unplugged. Yes, this is the switch that activates your brake lights when you press the brake pedal.
It is somewhat common for nitrous to be used to assist turbo spool. Nitrous is very effective to fight turbo lag. A switch is used to turn off the nitrous after a preset amount of boost is reached. Google'ing should turn-up a lot of info. Also, search on TurboBuick.Com for info. Some of my favorite sites for doing research are -
www.TurboBuick.Com
www.dsmtuners.com
www.iwsti.com
www.EvolutionM.net
http://forums.corral.net/forums/
http://bbs.scoobynet.com/
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=26
http://www.nitroustech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=11
http://nitrousforum.com/index.php
I hate, hate, hate WON. But, it is sometimes helpful for info. Did I mention that I hate WON???? Here is the link......
http://www.technical-forum.com/nitro...ussion-f5.html
http://forum.nitrous-advice.org/
WON stands for Wizard of Nitrous. It should be called AON for asshole of nitrous. Anytime someone self-proclaims themselves to be the best (ie, a Wizard), it is time to run away from that person quickly. The owner of WON is Trev. On the forum, he is called NOSWIZARD. He is the most arrogant person that I have ever had the misfortune to deal with. He is super anti-American also. WON is located in Britain. Nearly everyone on that WON forum is very narrow minded.
It is somewhat common for nitrous to be used to assist turbo spool. Nitrous is very effective to fight turbo lag. A switch is used to turn off the nitrous after a preset amount of boost is reached. Google'ing should turn-up a lot of info. Also, search on TurboBuick.Com for info. Some of my favorite sites for doing research are -
www.TurboBuick.Com
www.dsmtuners.com
www.iwsti.com
www.EvolutionM.net
http://forums.corral.net/forums/
http://bbs.scoobynet.com/
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=26
http://www.nitroustech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=11
http://nitrousforum.com/index.php
I hate, hate, hate WON. But, it is sometimes helpful for info. Did I mention that I hate WON???? Here is the link......
http://www.technical-forum.com/nitro...ussion-f5.html
http://forum.nitrous-advice.org/
WON stands for Wizard of Nitrous. It should be called AON for asshole of nitrous. Anytime someone self-proclaims themselves to be the best (ie, a Wizard), it is time to run away from that person quickly. The owner of WON is Trev. On the forum, he is called NOSWIZARD. He is the most arrogant person that I have ever had the misfortune to deal with. He is super anti-American also. WON is located in Britain. Nearly everyone on that WON forum is very narrow minded.
Last edited by Inaccurate; 10-21-2010 at 01:57 AM.
10-21-2010, 01:51 AM
#4189
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYV20eCOOIg
Only video we got of you car, missed the 3rd and dropped the phone on the second one.
The video does 0 justice, after my 3rd run I went before libert cause he was changing boost so I hauled ads down the pit and ran to the strip and caught half of it and wowwww
It was a bad night for alot of people, including me
Btw this was the fastest run tonight:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9oZpD-VRjhw
Only video we got of you car, missed the 3rd and dropped the phone on the second one.
The video does 0 justice, after my 3rd run I went before libert cause he was changing boost so I hauled ads down the pit and ran to the strip and caught half of it and wowwww
It was a bad night for alot of people, including me
Btw this was the fastest run tonight:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9oZpD-VRjhw
10-21-2010, 02:07 AM
#4191
Burning Brakes
Libert great effort and great run I'll see to it I fix u a map for race gas and send u into the 12s and what is your reaction times ??? Hopefully we can get some brake boost going I'm hoping inaccurate mod helps...
10-21-2010, 02:08 AM
#4192
^ Whoops. I forgot to say that removing the brake switch is for the track only because your brake lights will not work with the connector unplugged. Yes, this is the switch that activates your brake lights when you press the brake pedal.
It is somewhat common for nitrous to be used to assist turbo spool. Nitrous is very effective to fight turbo lag. A switch is used to turn off the nitrous after a preset amount of boost is reached. Google'ing should turn-up a lot of info. Also, search on TurboBuick.Com for info. Some of my favorite sites for doing research are -
www.TurboBuick.Com
www.dsmtuners.com
www.iwsti.com
www.EvolutionM.net
http://forums.corral.net/forums/
http://bbs.scoobynet.com/
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=26
http://www.nitroustech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=11
http://nitrousforum.com/index.php
I hate, hate, hate WON. But, it is sometimes helpful for info. Did I mention that I hate WON???? Here is the link......
http://www.technical-forum.com/nitro...ussion-f5.html
http://forum.nitrous-advice.org/
WON stands for Wizard of Nitrous. It should be called AON for asshole of nitrous. Anytime someone self-proclaims themselves to be the best (ie, a Wizard), it is time to run away from that person quickly. The owner of WON is Trev. On the forum, he is called NOSWIZARD. He is the most arrogant person that I have ever had the misfortune to deal with. He is super anti-American also. WON is located in Britain. Nearly everyone on that WON forum is very narrow minded.
It is somewhat common for nitrous to be used to assist turbo spool. Nitrous is very effective to fight turbo lag. A switch is used to turn off the nitrous after a preset amount of boost is reached. Google'ing should turn-up a lot of info. Also, search on TurboBuick.Com for info. Some of my favorite sites for doing research are -
www.TurboBuick.Com
www.dsmtuners.com
www.iwsti.com
www.EvolutionM.net
http://forums.corral.net/forums/
http://bbs.scoobynet.com/
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=26
http://www.nitroustech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=11
http://nitrousforum.com/index.php
I hate, hate, hate WON. But, it is sometimes helpful for info. Did I mention that I hate WON???? Here is the link......
http://www.technical-forum.com/nitro...ussion-f5.html
http://forum.nitrous-advice.org/
WON stands for Wizard of Nitrous. It should be called AON for asshole of nitrous. Anytime someone self-proclaims themselves to be the best (ie, a Wizard), it is time to run away from that person quickly. The owner of WON is Trev. On the forum, he is called NOSWIZARD. He is the most arrogant person that I have ever had the misfortune to deal with. He is super anti-American also. WON is located in Britain. Nearly everyone on that WON forum is very narrow minded.
Inaccurate, before I get into reading about nitrous, can you give me a ballpark figure on what a setup would cost me if I just wanted a small shot to get me off the line? Im sure there are many variables but just an estimate. I just want to know if it would be even worth doing since almost all of my street races are on the highway.
10-21-2010, 02:15 AM
#4193
Definitely next timeOn my first run of the night my r/t was .584
The other 2 runs I didnt concern myself with the r/t but rather trying to get a good launch
10-21-2010, 02:22 AM
#4195
Safety Car
This makes sense that the powerbraking would make the heavy non-turbo'ed TL slower.
Speaking in general about auto trans in any non-turbo'ed car, I always used powerbraking to *remove* power from my launch to help prevent overpowering the tires.
The initial flash from the converter will add huge amounts of power for a fraction of second as the car launches. Torque multiplication occurs when the fluid is slammed against the impellers in the converter. Please google this term "torque converter multiply torque" for more info.
The initial flash, which causes huge multiplication of power for a fraction of a second, is destroyed with powerbraking before a launch.
The heavy non-turbo'ed TL with too tall gearing in first gear can greatly benefit from this brief power multiplication to help get that weight moving.
However for Bert, the powerbraking is being used to build boost prior to leaving the line. Boost is more important in this case versus the torque multiplication for a brief second.
Speaking in general about auto trans in any non-turbo'ed car, I always used powerbraking to *remove* power from my launch to help prevent overpowering the tires.
The initial flash from the converter will add huge amounts of power for a fraction of second as the car launches. Torque multiplication occurs when the fluid is slammed against the impellers in the converter. Please google this term "torque converter multiply torque" for more info.
The initial flash, which causes huge multiplication of power for a fraction of a second, is destroyed with powerbraking before a launch.
The heavy non-turbo'ed TL with too tall gearing in first gear can greatly benefit from this brief power multiplication to help get that weight moving.
However for Bert, the powerbraking is being used to build boost prior to leaving the line. Boost is more important in this case versus the torque multiplication for a brief second.
Last edited by Inaccurate; 10-21-2010 at 02:31 AM.
