well ladies... the time has drawn near....
dunno how i never saw this thread before
12-31-2010, 06:07 PM
#448
OG 3.x^7 rawr
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Centreville, VA
Age: 38
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just read the whole thread....I'm in the same boat going with EMS2. Looking forward to seeing you get that tune after swapping the auto harness. I would like to figure out a way around that, but if AEM isn't going to support the sensors for the 6MT harness I guess I'll have to go with that.
, only shaft speed sensors
01-01-2011, 01:16 PM
#454
and you have to extend the 3 wires to it, so it can reach the mainshaft speed sensor on the front of the manual tranny (iirc 12"s should be about right, i don't totally remember though lol)
then the counter shaft speed sensor , on the auto is basically in the same place as on the manual, so it will reach no issues (i think you might have to trim the plastic wire router thing, but that is about it though, to give it enough slack to reach)
i may also have the shaft's names reversed idk, but i know the one at the back has to be extend though, while the front reaches
and for your ?, the shaft speed sensors on the front of the manual (there are two of them, one above the other; the bottom one is very hard to see from the top, but if you look from the bottom or the wheelwell, you should see it no issues)
also did you see https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...6#post12599956
Last edited by friesm2000; 01-01-2011 at 01:18 PM.
02-13-2011, 09:14 PM
#455
holy shit. I'm a busy man and I PM'd Rejkt with an update so I'll just give you the low down from that. I'm taking 18 hours at school this semester, I'm also Vice President of the veterans organization on campus and I'm also a new pledge for EKU's TKE chapter. Therefore sleep is a very limited commodity on my hands. Here is the private message.
so..... anyone have a range switch handy that can go to 40475? If I buy it new, is it number 16 here?
If so, the part is only $23. Thanks!
Yes I have AEM EMS 2, I HAD Richie's module installed while hooked up to the EMS, however it wasn't revving past 3k. I figure it's AEM's sort of safe mode. I checked in the software and it is throwing a shit ton of timing errors. Ok, changed out cam and crank sensors (maybe they were bad?) and nothing. Still no revs past 3k. I've been working on the car on and off lately as I do not have a garage and I'm solely dependent on the weather. So instead of cutting the wires that the harness was installed, I just took out the whole engine wiring harness, and installed a separate (yes they were both auto harnesses) one without the richie module. I just finished that yesterday, but it will not start. I'm thinking because it thinks it's in drive, and the shop that installed the Richie harness threw the range switch away since we didn't need it. So I need to acquire another range switch to see if that fixes it. Sorry for the length, but I'm updating you on what I've got.
If so, the part is only $23. Thanks!
02-14-2011, 10:56 PM
#458
fuck, 
completely forgot, got busy at work
edit: but still got the service manual at home
, grounding the RED/WHITE wire should do the trick and make it think it is in park/neutral so it cranks over
also can just yank out the starter relay, and power up the "signal" wire to the starter (should be one of the "large" tabs, and the one that is ground (0 volts, not battery voltage at 12.6)
completely forgot, got busy at workedit: but still got the service manual at home
, grounding the RED/WHITE wire should do the trick and make it think it is in park/neutral so it cranks overalso can just yank out the starter relay, and power up the "signal" wire to the starter (should be one of the "large" tabs, and the one that is ground (0 volts, not battery voltage at 12.6)
Last edited by friesm2000; 02-14-2011 at 11:03 PM.
02-14-2011, 11:31 PM
#459
basically what i am also kinda saying is there is no actually integrated chips, controlling the starter (it's two mechanical switches [ignition and safety], which controls a relay, which then supplies power to the starter solenoid, and after that energizes the starter up from the battery
BUT the ECU is monitoring the starter to see when it is requested though, so it provide the proper fueling and timing for starting (ie: provide quicker starts), but has no actually say to crank the starter of not
also almost FORGOT, when you do crank the over by bypassing things, make sure to have the key at least in the normal running position
BUT the ECU is monitoring the starter to see when it is requested though, so it provide the proper fueling and timing for starting (ie: provide quicker starts), but has no actually say to crank the starter of not
also almost FORGOT, when you do crank the over by bypassing things, make sure to have the key at least in the normal running position
02-16-2011, 07:23 AM
#462
I know for sure the temp guage does not work (it spikes to the top), so when I run the ems, I usually just have it hooked to the laptop to monitor temps. I think the tach is off by 1000, because comparing it to the laptop they aren't at the same level. That's all I can think of now.
02-16-2011, 12:28 PM
#463
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
IIRC you can jump the temp sensor directly to the gauge cluster.
02-20-2011, 09:58 AM
#464
Just ordered that part. I hope that's it, I really don't feel like splicing into this wiring harness lol. It should be here sometime this week. I really hope this makes it start.
While I'm at it, where can I get some header gaskets? Not the ones that go to the engine, but the triangle shaped ones that go between the headers and my y pipe. I've got an exhaust leak and I think it may be coming from there.
While I'm at it, where can I get some header gaskets? Not the ones that go to the engine, but the triangle shaped ones that go between the headers and my y pipe. I've got an exhaust leak and I think it may be coming from there.
02-20-2011, 10:27 AM
#465
Just ordered that part. I hope that's it, I really don't feel like splicing into this wiring harness lol. It should be here sometime this week. I really hope this makes it start.
While I'm at it, where can I get some header gaskets? Not the ones that go to the engine, but the triangle shaped ones that go between the headers and my y pipe. I've got an exhaust leak and I think it may be coming from there.
While I'm at it, where can I get some header gaskets? Not the ones that go to the engine, but the triangle shaped ones that go between the headers and my y pipe. I've got an exhaust leak and I think it may be coming from there.
since the flange/gasket could be "unique" to their header systemsso what is the layout/shape of said gasket?
02-20-2011, 11:40 AM
#467
the ones from the dealer WILL not work, i got some actually sitting on my tool box at work 
, they are basically a crushable metal o-ring, that must have a groove machined out for it in the flange itself (i will say one nice thing about comptech headers, is that it does maintain the factory type of seal, with having a groove machined out for one (i got the OEM ones, hoping they fit the comptech's in that spot, but idk yet, because i have still have not pulled it apart to replace them )
as far as gaskets for yours, maybe try permatex's "muffler and tailpipe sealer" (just make sure to work it back and fourth inside the tube, to remix it together, before using) , it's what i used on my test pipe, since the fucker does not include gaskets 
as far as availability of it, my local carquest had it in stock, so should not be that hard to find local
, they are basically a crushable metal o-ring, that must have a groove machined out for it in the flange itself (i will say one nice thing about comptech headers, is that it does maintain the factory type of seal, with having a groove machined out for one (i got the OEM ones, hoping they fit the comptech's in that spot, but idk yet, because i have still have not pulled it apart to replace them )as far as gaskets for yours, maybe try permatex's "muffler and tailpipe sealer"
(just make sure to work it back and fourth inside the tube, to remix it together, before using) , it's what i used on my test pipe, since the fucker does not include gaskets as far as availability of it, my local carquest had it in stock, so should not be that hard to find local
02-20-2011, 12:27 PM
#469
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
You should be able to get a sheet of the exhaust gasket material at an auto parts store and cut your own.
02-20-2011, 01:16 PM
#471
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
NP. I had to hunt around to a few different places to find the right stuff.
Worst case, use the Permatex stuff that fries mentioned.
Worst case, use the Permatex stuff that fries mentioned.
02-20-2011, 08:39 PM
#472
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
BTW, Ive been playing with the AEM software a bit today (v2.5, released a few days ago) and theres a hidden tab where you can adjust the tachometer frequencies.
I was a bit curious with that as you said the reading was off on the cluster and I spoke to Paul about it and he said thats because its made for swaps into 4cyl cars, so the frequencies are set for a 4cyl tach.
I can't help with what our frequencies are, but Im sure someone knows or can find out.
I was a bit curious with that as you said the reading was off on the cluster and I spoke to Paul about it and he said thats because its made for swaps into 4cyl cars, so the frequencies are set for a 4cyl tach.
I can't help with what our frequencies are, but Im sure someone knows or can find out.
02-21-2011, 04:36 PM
#474
BTW, Ive been playing with the AEM software a bit today (v2.5, released a few days ago) and theres a hidden tab where you can adjust the tachometer frequencies.
I was a bit curious with that as you said the reading was off on the cluster and I spoke to Paul about it and he said thats because its made for swaps into 4cyl cars, so the frequencies are set for a 4cyl tach.
I can't help with what our frequencies are, but Im sure someone knows or can find out.
I was a bit curious with that as you said the reading was off on the cluster and I spoke to Paul about it and he said thats because its made for swaps into 4cyl cars, so the frequencies are set for a 4cyl tach.
I can't help with what our frequencies are, but Im sure someone knows or can find out.
Tachometer
The tachometer drive circuit (part of the main circuit) receives pulses from the PCM. The solid-state tachometer then displays these pulses as engine speed. For each 200 pulses per minute from the PCM the tachometer displays 100 RPM .
then for a 1999 civic Si:
Tachometer
The tachometer drive circuit receives pulses from the ignition control module (ICM) in the distributor assembly or the ECM/PCM. The solid-state tachometer then displays these pulses as engine speed. For each 200 pulses per minute from the ignition control module (ICM) or the ECM/PCM, the tachometer displays 100 RPM .
so in all reality they should be displaying the same rpms, no matter the tach, 4 or 6 cylinder (the sending module just might vary a little though)
02-21-2011, 05:28 PM
#475
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
from all data
Tachometer
The tachometer drive circuit (part of the main circuit) receives pulses from the PCM. The solid-state tachometer then displays these pulses as engine speed. For each 200 pulses per minute from the PCM the tachometer displays 100 RPM .
then for a 1999 civic Si:
Tachometer
The tachometer drive circuit receives pulses from the ignition control module (ICM) in the distributor assembly or the ECM/PCM. The solid-state tachometer then displays these pulses as engine speed. For each 200 pulses per minute from the ignition control module (ICM) or the ECM/PCM, the tachometer displays 100 RPM .
so in all reality they should be displaying the same rpms, no matter the tach, 4 or 6 cylinder (the sending module just might vary a little though)
Tachometer
The tachometer drive circuit (part of the main circuit) receives pulses from the PCM. The solid-state tachometer then displays these pulses as engine speed. For each 200 pulses per minute from the PCM the tachometer displays 100 RPM .
then for a 1999 civic Si:
Tachometer
The tachometer drive circuit receives pulses from the ignition control module (ICM) in the distributor assembly or the ECM/PCM. The solid-state tachometer then displays these pulses as engine speed. For each 200 pulses per minute from the ignition control module (ICM) or the ECM/PCM, the tachometer displays 100 RPM .
so in all reality they should be displaying the same rpms, no matter the tach, 4 or 6 cylinder (the sending module just might vary a little though)
Tachometers expect a certain number of pulses per spark, not per minute. That number varies between 4cyl motors and 6cyl motors (and any other kind of motor for that mater).
02-21-2011, 06:59 PM
#476
Ummmm.... maybe you should reread it, the PCM/ECU/ICM outputs the signal, so it can output it however it likes (especially if the tach is an OEM one), and is not dependent on an actual spark event happening (as with aftermaket tachs), but is dependent on a crank sensor picking up a reluctor wheel, so no matter wether a spark happens or not, it is still able to pick up an engine speed
02-21-2011, 07:26 PM
#477
and heres a question for your civic, how is the ecu picking up the engine speed, sure as hell can't be based off of the spark, because it controls that, and would more then likely be self-feeding then, with producing even more spark events
basically the ecu is just outputting a signal to the tach; which happens to be calibrated to a specific value; based off of it's own internal calculations (mainly the crank sensor; sometimes even the cam sensor, if like the crank sensor has actually failed; it takes longer to start, and does not run as well though, but still drivable)
and that sensor also happens to be alot more precise too, because it is picking up an signal every 10-12 degrees per crankshaft rotation (on most cars i would say, some pick it up more often then others), and because of that higher resolution, the ecu is actually able to pickup variations in engine rpm to within a few % of the average rpms (of all the cylinders), and actually flag a misfire code, because a certain cylinder slowed down too much, during it's turn to spin the crankshaft
basically the ecu is just outputting a signal to the tach; which happens to be calibrated to a specific value; based off of it's own internal calculations (mainly the crank sensor; sometimes even the cam sensor, if like the crank sensor has actually failed; it takes longer to start, and does not run as well though, but still drivable)
and that sensor also happens to be alot more precise too, because it is picking up an signal every 10-12 degrees per crankshaft rotation (on most cars i would say, some pick it up more often then others), and because of that higher resolution, the ecu is actually able to pickup variations in engine rpm to within a few % of the average rpms (of all the cylinders), and actually flag a misfire code, because a certain cylinder slowed down too much, during it's turn to spin the crankshaft
Last edited by friesm2000; 02-21-2011 at 07:33 PM.
02-21-2011, 07:30 PM
#478
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Then how does the EMS show the proper rpm in the tuning software and not on the tach? Clearly the pulses are off.