well ladies... the time has drawn near....
08-12-2011, 06:44 PM
#601
I know it's pretty depressing that my car is not on the streets still. My brother came over one day and said it sounds like it's out of time. Of course that would make sense why the EMS didn't work, but would you guys agree? Could I have put the timing belt on and had it a tooth off? I'm not sure what I should do other than take it in and see what they can do.
08-12-2011, 06:48 PM
#602
its not only possible, it happens!
note in the diy= how the cam moves slightly when belt removed,,
if you dont catch that and put it back in exactly the right spot,,,
it will sort of run,,if it doesnt band a valve.. with our interferance engine
run a compression test recently? that will tell
No I didnt read the pages to find out the history of test so far
note in the diy= how the cam moves slightly when belt removed,,
if you dont catch that and put it back in exactly the right spot,,,
it will sort of run,,if it doesnt band a valve.. with our interferance engine
run a compression test recently? that will tell
No I didnt read the pages to find out the history of test so far
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assclown (08-21-2011)
08-12-2011, 06:49 PM
#603
you can pull the tbelt covers and ck all the marks are lined up
did you mark the cams when removed?
did you mark the cams when removed?
08-21-2011, 08:37 PM
#605
Thanks Tom. The semester is just starting up so I won't have time to be messing with it :-/ I'll just take it in.
But yes I marked the cam pulleys before pulling the timing belt and I noticed when I took the belt off they did move, but when I installed the new belt I tried my hardest to line up all the marks.
I don't really have the tools to do a compression test, but the engine only has 70k miles. Would that still be a possible issue?
Thanks again!
But yes I marked the cam pulleys before pulling the timing belt and I noticed when I took the belt off they did move, but when I installed the new belt I tried my hardest to line up all the marks.
I don't really have the tools to do a compression test, but the engine only has 70k miles. Would that still be a possible issue?
Thanks again!
09-28-2011, 07:31 PM
#609
Got a compression testing kit, Got some extremely high numbers. Maybe I'm doing it wrong.
I pretty much followed everything in the service manual besides warming up the engine.
I pulled all 6 coils and plugs.
Pulled the fuel pump fuse
Propped the throttle plate open
installed the tester in the spark plug hole one at a time and cranked the engine for 5 seconds or so and got my readings. Here's what I got. (I couldn't find a chart that listed the cylinder numbers)
...................215 215 213
Crank pulley ........................Transmission
...................225 220 215
Am I doing this right? I'm using a US General Engine compression kit (http://www.sears.com/us-general-comp...p-SPM211696530), I know it's cheap but I'm only going to use this thing a few times.
I pretty much followed everything in the service manual besides warming up the engine.
I pulled all 6 coils and plugs.
Pulled the fuel pump fuse
Propped the throttle plate open
installed the tester in the spark plug hole one at a time and cranked the engine for 5 seconds or so and got my readings. Here's what I got. (I couldn't find a chart that listed the cylinder numbers)
...................215 215 213
Crank pulley ........................Transmission
...................225 220 215
Am I doing this right? I'm using a US General Engine compression kit (http://www.sears.com/us-general-comp...p-SPM211696530), I know it's cheap but I'm only going to use this thing a few times.
09-28-2011, 11:44 PM
#610
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5gy8UcW5YM
Those numbers sound right to me. And most importantly, they are consistent.
Those numbers sound right to me. And most importantly, they are consistent.
Last edited by civicdrivr; 09-28-2011 at 11:47 PM.
09-29-2011, 08:30 AM
#612
Thanks Morgan yeah I saw that video after I posted that. Did a nice long search to see if others were getting those high of readings. I'm sure I got higher readings than him because he was doing tests with only one spark plug pulled at a time, and probably didn't have a battery charger hooked up (I did) so my cranks were quick and constant.
So now that the compression checks out... WTF? could it still be head gasket? Could the timing still be out? Homework bearing, I'll see about pulling the engine. Ideas?
So now that the compression checks out... WTF? could it still be head gasket? Could the timing still be out? Homework bearing, I'll see about pulling the engine. Ideas?
10-11-2011, 07:18 PM
#613
Engine is out of the car again.
Valve Covers off
Engine Heads off, shots of nasty pistons, I don't see any cracks or anything like that?
Engine heads, they aren't sitting like that right now, only for photos. Those are nasty too.
There's the engine compression tester fitting lol
Head Gaskets, they look fine?
Thoughts? Thanks guys
Valve Covers off
Engine Heads off, shots of nasty pistons, I don't see any cracks or anything like that?
Engine heads, they aren't sitting like that right now, only for photos. Those are nasty too.
There's the engine compression tester fitting lol
Head Gaskets, they look fine?
Thoughts? Thanks guys
Last edited by assclown; 10-11-2011 at 07:23 PM.
10-11-2011, 09:34 PM
#614
Senior Moderator
Now before pulling the motor and ripping every thing off did you take the time to double check the timing by pulling the covers off?
10-12-2011, 11:57 AM
#616
99Ackrite
Those CT readings were very good. I think if you had a bad HG you would have at least one cyl that would have a low reading. I agree with fsttyms1 I think your timing was an issue. Just my opinion.
10-13-2011, 01:39 PM
#618
99Ackrite
To me I think they were feeding you a line of hoo boo. The only way to know if exhaust is in a liquid substance in a chemical test. Oil you can see abut not exhaust. And if something were wrong with the heads or valves it would have shown in the CT results.
10-13-2011, 06:42 PM
#619
That's what I was thinking, maybe they didn't want to work on it. Oh well. Lovely that my flex plate went out on my Yukon. There goes more money but when I get the truck back I'll take the heads in just incase and throw new head gaskets on there and try assembling it up. Thanks for the help.
10-25-2011, 04:07 PM
#621
Got the heads back, everything checked out just fine. I have new headgaskets and now it's down to head bolts. According to Delray Acura, they want $6.30 a piece bringing 16 head bolts up to $104. Rockauto has some DNJ head bolts $60 for a set of 16. The guys at the machine shop said there shouldn't be any difference between name brand and generic head bolts, but I wanted to ask you guys too. Once I get these, the engine is ready to be rebuilt.
10-30-2011, 04:44 PM
#624
It freaking sucks to be in now. They have all these ways to kick people out. You basically have to worry about having a job now. PTS and ERB are sending all kinds of people home. No just the non performers. But that Officer world is totally different. That will be a good way to get started if wanted to go that route.
10-30-2011, 09:27 PM
#625
we'll see how it goes when I graduate Ken. I really just need a job lol.
To everyone else, this should come as good news. It's almost ready to be stuffed, gotta throw on the a/c compressor, p/s pump, alternator, clutch/flywheel then the transmission.
When I pulled the engine out, the alternator plug got caught and pulled the terminator off grrr. so I'll have to repin those connections, that's what you see in the pic
To everyone else, this should come as good news. It's almost ready to be stuffed, gotta throw on the a/c compressor, p/s pump, alternator, clutch/flywheel then the transmission.
When I pulled the engine out, the alternator plug got caught and pulled the terminator off grrr. so I'll have to repin those connections, that's what you see in the pic
10-30-2011, 09:31 PM
#626
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Good luck 
10-31-2011, 09:37 PM
#627
Spent a good portion of the day working on the car. The engine is in the bay, but the fucking rear mount is going to be the death of me. I can't get the bolt through. I'd say I spent a good 2 hours running the hoist up and down trying to get the bolt lined up with the mount. Pisses me off.
Otherwise, I need to grab some Honda MTF, antifreeze brake fluid for the clutch and I'm just about ready.
Otherwise, I need to grab some Honda MTF, antifreeze brake fluid for the clutch and I'm just about ready.
11-01-2011, 01:41 PM
#628
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Make sure the other mounts are loose.
11-01-2011, 02:20 PM
#629
yeah, I tried first with the mounts looser than a $10 hooker but nothing, so I undid all mounts and still no dice. Unfortunately I have classes all the way till 9 tonight and a paper due tomorrow. So my next chance to take a whack at it will be tomorrow. I want this thing road ready by next friday.
11-02-2011, 08:51 PM
#630
Put some things together and we now have the engine secured with all 5 motor mounts, all the lines are hooked up, all exhaust all the way to the cat is hooked up. I need to pressurize the clutch, replace the ball joints and one tie rod end then instally the axles. I started it up and got this....
http://youtu.be/wpPQ5dAPMSg
Yikes. Doesn't sound right. I think there was a knocking sound in the front part of the engine.
I ran some codes and got this:
there were other codes, but they are your standard codes about transmission. Cleared them and now this is how she starts...
http://youtu.be/ABbk_bGv-xk
I swapped ECU's and the P1656 and P1298 went away, the only codes I got were the transmission codes. But still starts like the above. Ideas?
http://youtu.be/wpPQ5dAPMSg
Yikes. Doesn't sound right. I think there was a knocking sound in the front part of the engine.
I ran some codes and got this:
there were other codes, but they are your standard codes about transmission. Cleared them and now this is how she starts...
http://youtu.be/ABbk_bGv-xk
I swapped ECU's and the P1656 and P1298 went away, the only codes I got were the transmission codes. But still starts like the above. Ideas?
11-02-2011, 11:59 PM
#634
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
What ECU are you running?
11-16-2011, 01:49 PM
#638
I Like Pie
i don't think you're going to be able to use the j32a1 ecu with the j32a2 engine, and the second video seems to confirm that. I'd put the other ecu back in.
As for the codes
P1656 is a "problem in PCM-to-VSA Control Unit Communications Circuit". This is expected since you didn't swap the VSA system.
P1298 is ELD circuit voltage high - You said you damaged the connectors for the alternator, perhaps you repinned them incorrectly or the connection is poor (ie it's overcharging). Either that or you have a short somewhere that's tricking the system into high-output charging mode when it doesn't need to be.
I also found this with respect to the ELD, but i'm not sure it applies in your case:
As for the codes
P1656 is a "problem in PCM-to-VSA Control Unit Communications Circuit". This is expected since you didn't swap the VSA system.
P1298 is ELD circuit voltage high - You said you damaged the connectors for the alternator, perhaps you repinned them incorrectly or the connection is poor (ie it's overcharging). Either that or you have a short somewhere that's tricking the system into high-output charging mode when it doesn't need to be.
I also found this with respect to the ELD, but i'm not sure it applies in your case:
A P1298 (ELD circuit high
voltage) can be caused by a faulty solder on the ELD. If this is the case, 5V will be found at the ELD signal terminal
at the ECM. At first, technicians were required to replace the whole fuse box. However, technicians are now
required to disassemble the fuse box and replace only the ELD. The same voltage will be found if there is a problem
on the ground-side of the ELD.
voltage) can be caused by a faulty solder on the ELD. If this is the case, 5V will be found at the ELD signal terminal
at the ECM. At first, technicians were required to replace the whole fuse box. However, technicians are now
required to disassemble the fuse box and replace only the ELD. The same voltage will be found if there is a problem
on the ground-side of the ELD.
11-16-2011, 05:25 PM
#639
Yep, swapped them all and nothing.
the a2 ECU is back in, and still does the same thing, but that error code makes sense to me now since it's a VSA code.
The ELD circuit voltage high probably makes sense, I kind of rigged the wiring by twisting them in electrical tape because I couldn't find my electrical tool kit. But I found it and I'll do it the right way this time, but I doubt this is why it's not starting.
Thanks for the advice!
My brother and I are going to pull the injectors, he said it sounds like it's possibly flooding. So we'll see!
i don't think you're going to be able to use the j32a1 ecu with the j32a2 engine, and the second video seems to confirm that. I'd put the other ecu back in.
As for the codes
P1656 is a "problem in PCM-to-VSA Control Unit Communications Circuit". This is expected since you didn't swap the VSA system.
P1298 is ELD circuit voltage high - You said you damaged the connectors for the alternator, perhaps you repinned them incorrectly or the connection is poor (ie it's overcharging). Either that or you have a short somewhere that's tricking the system into high-output charging mode when it doesn't need to be.
I also found this with respect to the ELD, but i'm not sure it applies in your case:
As for the codes
P1656 is a "problem in PCM-to-VSA Control Unit Communications Circuit". This is expected since you didn't swap the VSA system.
P1298 is ELD circuit voltage high - You said you damaged the connectors for the alternator, perhaps you repinned them incorrectly or the connection is poor (ie it's overcharging). Either that or you have a short somewhere that's tricking the system into high-output charging mode when it doesn't need to be.
I also found this with respect to the ELD, but i'm not sure it applies in your case:
The ELD circuit voltage high probably makes sense, I kind of rigged the wiring by twisting them in electrical tape because I couldn't find my electrical tool kit. But I found it and I'll do it the right way this time, but I doubt this is why it's not starting.
Thanks for the advice!
My brother and I are going to pull the injectors, he said it sounds like it's possibly flooding. So we'll see!
