well ladies... the time has drawn near....
#561
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Phee, if you want, PM the info you have on it. From what I read, I thought it was for the newer ECUs - IIRC theyre Motorolas compared to our Keihen (sp?).
#563
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
IIRC our current ECU doesnt control any of that stuff (unlike the newer Accord/TL ecus). For example - our climate control will work without the stock ECU.
#564
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
but yes our ecu's are no where close to being as integrated as the 3g tl's are, but they still are some though
btw the a/c compressor does work through the ecu, with the ecu having final say if it is turned on or not (let alone bumping the idle up as needed); why do you think it is able to turn off at WOT
#565
Phee, I am also interested. If this unit will fix my problem, I will buy it in a heartbeat (if financially feasible of course).
and keep in mind, I think we NEED our OEM ECU's for the immobilizer feature, unless the JandR has the plug on the other side of the ECU. The AEM didn't and that's why I couldn't start the car, because it wasn't plugged in.
and keep in mind, I think we NEED our OEM ECU's for the immobilizer feature, unless the JandR has the plug on the other side of the ECU. The AEM didn't and that's why I couldn't start the car, because it wasn't plugged in.
#568
Safety Car
iTrader: (5)
I'm a definite for this. Just give me a few weeks to stack money. We should start a thread with list of interest for the 2G TL/CL & 6G Accord.
Ass, if this works out would you sell your AEM? I have a friend who might need it for his swap.
Ass, if this works out would you sell your AEM? I have a friend who might need it for his swap.
#571
B:
iTrader: (1)
Trust me, you don't want the J&R EMS. From my understanding, not only is it not built for our application, but it's based of the archaic MegaSquirt and it is a tuner's nightmare, and it has less than half of the features the AEM has, not to mention you'll have to run a completely custom crank trigger setup with it.
This is 100% untrue. The immobilizer is inside your stock ECU. When you replaced the stock ECU with the AEM, you got rid of your immobilizer.
You need to take your car to someone with experience before you give up on the AEM unit. It is by far THE BEST tried-and-true solution for this motor. I'm running it in my j35/6mt/turbo Accord and it is now running flawlessly. On your FI setup, the O2 feedback feature will be your best friend.
Try the following: plug in the AEM EMS, open AEM Tuner, then click the ECU tab. Key on, then click "clear calibration." Once it has been confirmed that you cleared what was currently in the ECU, reload the "V6 civic calibration."
Don't change any settings (even if you aren't running stock injectors), just run the throttle setup wizard, hit enter, then attempt to start. There is literally no reason the unit isn't working for you.
Phee, I am also interested. If this unit will fix my problem, I will buy it in a heartbeat (if financially feasible of course).
and keep in mind, I think we NEED our OEM ECU's for the immobilizer feature, unless the JandR has the plug on the other side of the ECU. The AEM didn't and that's why I couldn't start the car, because it wasn't plugged in.
and keep in mind, I think we NEED our OEM ECU's for the immobilizer feature, unless the JandR has the plug on the other side of the ECU. The AEM didn't and that's why I couldn't start the car, because it wasn't plugged in.
You need to take your car to someone with experience before you give up on the AEM unit. It is by far THE BEST tried-and-true solution for this motor. I'm running it in my j35/6mt/turbo Accord and it is now running flawlessly. On your FI setup, the O2 feedback feature will be your best friend.
Try the following: plug in the AEM EMS, open AEM Tuner, then click the ECU tab. Key on, then click "clear calibration." Once it has been confirmed that you cleared what was currently in the ECU, reload the "V6 civic calibration."
Don't change any settings (even if you aren't running stock injectors), just run the throttle setup wizard, hit enter, then attempt to start. There is literally no reason the unit isn't working for you.
Last edited by MoneyPit; 04-13-2011 at 09:03 PM.
#572
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
Trust me, you don't want the J&R EMS. From my understanding, not only is it not built for our application, but it's based of the archaic MegaSquirt and it is a tuner's nightmare, and it has less than half of the features the AEM has, not to mention you'll have to run a completely custom crank trigger setup with it.
This is 100% untrue. The immobilizer is inside your stock ECU. When you replaced the stock ECU with the AEM, you got rid of your immobilizer.
You need to take your car to someone with experience before you give up on the AEM unit. It is by far THE BEST tried-and-true solution for this motor. I'm running it in my j35/6mt/turbo Accord and it is now running flawlessly. On your FI setup, the O2 feedback feature will be your best friend.
Try the following: plug in the AEM EMS, open AEM Tuner, then click the ECU tab. Key on, then click "clear calibration." Once it has been confirmed that you cleared what was currently in the ECU, reload the "V6 civic calibration."
Don't change any settings (even if you aren't running stock injectors), just run the throttle setup wizard, hit enter, then attempt to start. There is literally no reason the unit isn't working for you.
This is 100% untrue. The immobilizer is inside your stock ECU. When you replaced the stock ECU with the AEM, you got rid of your immobilizer.
You need to take your car to someone with experience before you give up on the AEM unit. It is by far THE BEST tried-and-true solution for this motor. I'm running it in my j35/6mt/turbo Accord and it is now running flawlessly. On your FI setup, the O2 feedback feature will be your best friend.
Try the following: plug in the AEM EMS, open AEM Tuner, then click the ECU tab. Key on, then click "clear calibration." Once it has been confirmed that you cleared what was currently in the ECU, reload the "V6 civic calibration."
Don't change any settings (even if you aren't running stock injectors), just run the throttle setup wizard, hit enter, then attempt to start. There is literally no reason the unit isn't working for you.
looking at some of the features of the AEM, i will say i am impressed, with them (not always mentioned though)(like having a maps/tables for being able to shift an automatic, it's all custom tuning though, but it is still there though)(or one of my favorites NITROUS CONTROL
![Drool](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/drool.gif)
and i would say maybe send him your map even (or at least a very basic one tuned to a turbo
![Wish](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wish.gif)
#575
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
![Werd](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/werd.gif)
My next move is dependent on you OP.
Help me Assclown, you're my only hope!
Yea, thats a Star Wars reference. Deal with it.
#576
B:
iTrader: (1)
looking at some of the features of the AEM, i will say i am impressed, with them (not always mentioned though)(like having a maps/tables for being able to shift an automatic, it's all custom tuning though, but it is still there though)(or one of my favorites NITROUS CONTROL
)
and i would say maybe send him your map even (or at least a very basic one tuned to a turbo
)
![Drool](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/drool.gif)
and i would say maybe send him your map even (or at least a very basic one tuned to a turbo
![Wish](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wish.gif)
My setup is extremely different than the OP's, and my tune would probably do more harm than good. This is not something I want to be responsible for.
But like I said, if the OP is running stock injectors, the calibration provided by AEM should run the car great, so long as the OP uses the O2 feedback feature and doesn't go into positive manifold pressure.
Not a problem. I tried to force the E-manage to work with my setup for over a year, but I gave up after two failed dyno attempts. You have no idea what this ECU will do to your car. Just stick with it and you won't regret it. Feel free to hit me up whenever, lets get this thing running right!
I'm scheduled in less than two weeks for my third (first with the standalone), and hopefully final, dyno tune. As always, I'll keep AZ updated with the results. From what AEM tells me, it'll be the first stroked FI j-series running their ECU tuned by their top-notch series 2 guy. :hopes:
#577
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
Exactly. This EMS has been proven to be one of the most versatile standalone solutions on numerous cars. AEM really stepped their game up when building this one for the j-series.
My setup is extremely different than the OP's, and my tune would probably do more harm than good. This is not something I want to be responsible for.
But like I said, if the OP is running stock injectors, the calibration provided by AEM should run the car great, so long as the OP uses the O2 feedback feature and doesn't go into positive manifold pressure.
Not a problem. I tried to force the E-manage to work with my setup for over a year, but I gave up after two failed dyno attempts. You have no idea what this ECU will do to your car. Just stick with it and you won't regret it. Feel free to hit me up whenever, lets get this thing running right!
I'm scheduled in less than two weeks for my third (first with the standalone), and hopefully final, dyno tune. As always, I'll keep AZ updated with the results. From what AEM tells me, it'll be the first stroked FI j-series running their ECU tuned by their top-notch series 2 guy. :hopes:
My setup is extremely different than the OP's, and my tune would probably do more harm than good. This is not something I want to be responsible for.
But like I said, if the OP is running stock injectors, the calibration provided by AEM should run the car great, so long as the OP uses the O2 feedback feature and doesn't go into positive manifold pressure.
Not a problem. I tried to force the E-manage to work with my setup for over a year, but I gave up after two failed dyno attempts. You have no idea what this ECU will do to your car. Just stick with it and you won't regret it. Feel free to hit me up whenever, lets get this thing running right!
I'm scheduled in less than two weeks for my third (first with the standalone), and hopefully final, dyno tune. As always, I'll keep AZ updated with the results. From what AEM tells me, it'll be the first stroked FI j-series running their ECU tuned by their top-notch series 2 guy. :hopes:
part of the reason why PAGES ago i said install the motor/swap first, then worry about installing the turbo kit, and the headaches of it
so assclown prop open the wastegate some how, so the turbo does not spin up very well, and won't make boost
also as a side note, when you talk to them next time, can you see if they be willing to get it to be able to integrate more so with the 2g TL (more specifically the serial data line between the ECU and the ABS/TCS/VSA module, so we can keep ALL the dash lights off, along with full functionality of the rest of the stock computers (i am the only one i know of that has the VSA system still fully functioning/installed with a 6-speed swap)
all i saw some control of the EGR valve, but i would also like to have full control of the evap system too, and iirc that is 3 valves, where they only give you "two" to control (also with having it pre-programmed to function correctly also
![Wish](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wish.gif)
Last edited by friesm2000; 04-14-2011 at 01:46 PM.
#578
Well I tried the clear calibration, upload calibration, set throttle wizard, start up and still nothing....
I'm uploading a video to youtube right now to show. The only reason it wasn't starting was the ign coil fuse blew, so after I turned the camera off, I changed the fuse and it started up, still no revs past 3k. Here is the ECU log.
http://www.ekuvets.org/2011-04-161251ECULog.stf
Could it possibly be because the wideband isn't hooked up to the ECU or something? I think my tuner just hooked up the wideband and ran it straight to the gauge.
I'm uploading a video to youtube right now to show. The only reason it wasn't starting was the ign coil fuse blew, so after I turned the camera off, I changed the fuse and it started up, still no revs past 3k. Here is the ECU log.
http://www.ekuvets.org/2011-04-161251ECULog.stf
Could it possibly be because the wideband isn't hooked up to the ECU or something? I think my tuner just hooked up the wideband and ran it straight to the gauge.
#580
B:
iTrader: (1)
Can't see shit in that video.
Lol, that's the fuse I told you to check three pages ago! So that tells me that at some point you cycled the key with no calibration in the ecu, which then blew that IGN COIL fuse.
I understand that since you don't have Richie's harness installed anymore you won't be able to rev past 5.5k with the stock ecu installed, but are you able to rev past 3k with the stock ecu? If not, do you have a scanner that you can pull codes with? I know you'll have a bunch of transmission codes, but if it is something else, it should show up.
Also, when you pull up the output errors tab under "hidden tabs," do you see any errors popping up when the AEM limits you to 3k?
*edit* these ECU's can run an engine sitting on the ground of a shop, you don't need any form of O2 sensor for it to start/run the motor. HOWEVER, that may be the reason the ECU goes into fail-safe at 3k (the stock narrowband O2 sensors aren't compatible with this unit, so without the wideband, you have no O2 feedback whatsoever). Just pin the AEM wideband to the ecu, it's only one wire lol!
Lol, that's the fuse I told you to check three pages ago! So that tells me that at some point you cycled the key with no calibration in the ecu, which then blew that IGN COIL fuse.
I understand that since you don't have Richie's harness installed anymore you won't be able to rev past 5.5k with the stock ecu installed, but are you able to rev past 3k with the stock ecu? If not, do you have a scanner that you can pull codes with? I know you'll have a bunch of transmission codes, but if it is something else, it should show up.
Also, when you pull up the output errors tab under "hidden tabs," do you see any errors popping up when the AEM limits you to 3k?
*edit* these ECU's can run an engine sitting on the ground of a shop, you don't need any form of O2 sensor for it to start/run the motor. HOWEVER, that may be the reason the ECU goes into fail-safe at 3k (the stock narrowband O2 sensors aren't compatible with this unit, so without the wideband, you have no O2 feedback whatsoever). Just pin the AEM wideband to the ecu, it's only one wire lol!
Last edited by MoneyPit; 04-16-2011 at 05:20 PM.
#581
Sorry, just wanted to show me clearing the EMS and reloading the cals
Yeah, 3 pages ago that wasn't the problem though, haha. It was running today even earlier, but I must have cycled it with no cal.
When the stock ECU is in, it will rev to the full 5.5k. It is only the EMS that makes me not rev past 3k.
I can't find the output errors tab, I saw the output troubleshooting, but that didn't show much that we're looking for.
![](http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h299/fenderi/screenshot.jpg)
Will do.
I understand that since you don't have Richie's harness installed anymore you won't be able to rev past 5.5k with the stock ecu installed, but are you able to rev past 3k with the stock ecu? If not, do you have a scanner that you can pull codes with? I know you'll have a bunch of transmission codes, but if it is something else, it should show up.
![](http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h299/fenderi/screenshot.jpg)
*edit* these ECU's can run an engine sitting on the ground of a shop, you don't need any form of O2 sensor for it to start/run the motor. HOWEVER, that may be the reason the ECU goes into fail-safe at 3k (the stock narrowband O2 sensors aren't compatible with this unit, so without the wideband, you have no O2 feedback whatsoever). Just pin the AEM wideband to the ecu, it's only one wire lol!
#582
I regret to inform you that I just totaled my truck and will probably have to pull the plug on this endeavor. It was my fault as my tire hit the edge of the road, pulled me into a ditch and I hit a fence and some trees. The frame and the body is all twisted, it's nasty. I'm on minimal funds right now so I do not foresee buying another vehicle.
So I'm guessing my plan is to remove turbo, get another j pipe to run, and go from there. Regardless, it'll be counted as another successful 6 speed swap. Where could I get my hands on JUST a J pipe? I've already got the XS power headers.
So I'm guessing my plan is to remove turbo, get another j pipe to run, and go from there. Regardless, it'll be counted as another successful 6 speed swap. Where could I get my hands on JUST a J pipe? I've already got the XS power headers.
#585
I got the Shifts
iTrader: (5)
Moneypit have you used the J&r? How would you be able to give an informed opinion on the unit if you haven't?
I have confirmed everything that I stated was true. I even have a proven dyno graph of a n/a car with bolt ons making 25 more whp than stock.
The thing will be plug and play so there is no need for any crank triggers and it costs a couple bucks more than an ems and offers full compatibility without rigs.
I'll start a feeler with VALid information for those of you who prefer fact over opinion.
I have confirmed everything that I stated was true. I even have a proven dyno graph of a n/a car with bolt ons making 25 more whp than stock.
The thing will be plug and play so there is no need for any crank triggers and it costs a couple bucks more than an ems and offers full compatibility without rigs.
I'll start a feeler with VALid information for those of you who prefer fact over opinion.
#588
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
Moneypit have you used the J&r? How would you be able to give an informed opinion on the unit if you haven't?
I have confirmed everything that I stated was true. I even have a proven dyno graph of a n/a car with bolt ons making 25 more whp than stock.
The thing will be plug and play so there is no need for any crank triggers and it costs a couple bucks more than an ems and offers full compatibility without rigs.
I'll start a feeler with VALid information for those of you who prefer fact over opinion.
I have confirmed everything that I stated was true. I even have a proven dyno graph of a n/a car with bolt ons making 25 more whp than stock.
The thing will be plug and play so there is no need for any crank triggers and it costs a couple bucks more than an ems and offers full compatibility without rigs.
I'll start a feeler with VALid information for those of you who prefer fact over opinion.
#589
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Damn, sorry to hear about the latest setback. I assume youre doing OK though since youre posting on here.
I sent a PM your way too.
I sent a PM your way too.
#590
I got the Shifts
iTrader: (5)
25 WHP more than the stock ecu with bolt ons.
findind a properly running car on this ems is like finding a unicorn. Lets face it, this ems is too much work and requires way too many associated parts.
edit:
Sorry about your wreck assclown. i dont think u should give up on the TL tho.
findind a properly running car on this ems is like finding a unicorn. Lets face it, this ems is too much work and requires way too many associated parts.
edit:
Sorry about your wreck assclown. i dont think u should give up on the TL tho.
#591
Thanks guys. I didn't even take pictures of the truck, it just looked too awful.
then again, I could always try going emanage blue for now.... that actually would be cheaper than removing the turbo (taking the downpipe out would be the biggest bitch.)
then again, I could always try going emanage blue for now.... that actually would be cheaper than removing the turbo (taking the downpipe out would be the biggest bitch.)
Last edited by assclown; 04-18-2011 at 10:16 AM.
#592
B:
iTrader: (1)
25 WHP more than the stock ecu with bolt ons.
findind a properly running car on this ems is like finding a unicorn. Lets face it, this ems is too much work and requires way too many associated parts.
edit:
Sorry about your wreck assclown. i dont think u should give up on the TL tho.
findind a properly running car on this ems is like finding a unicorn. Lets face it, this ems is too much work and requires way too many associated parts.
edit:
Sorry about your wreck assclown. i dont think u should give up on the TL tho.
Phee have you used the AEM Series Two? How would you be able to give an informed opinion on the unit if you haven't? Lmao.
The AEM EMS requires nothing but plugging the unit in and driving the car away. That is all. It doesn't require ANYTHING more than a wideband 02 sensor, but if you have any kind of engine management (even the shitty ass MegaSquirt), you should have a wideband anyways, so that doesn't really even count. Unlike J&R's unit, where in order to monitor knock you have to buy a $140 separate module, AEM EMS knock-monitoring comes built-in. It also completely replaces the stock ecu and still provides a functional check-engine feature complete with OE codes.
P2R made over 300 whp NA on AEM, and there are numerous other civics/tegs that are running their setup on the AEM unit with no problems. Just do a little research on the AEM Series 2 to make yourself familiar with the VALid facts.
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#593
Good news, I was able to find a steal of a deal on a 94 GMC Yukon. Pretty much replaces my K1500 with more room and a little better gas mileage. This means I have more leeway to work on my car more and fuck with the EMS.
The semester will be over after next week so I'll have time to call AEM and have them troubleshoot this issue with the no rev >3000 RPM.
Anyone in the Central KY area want to be my guinea pig and let me plug my EMS in their car to see if it's possibly the unit that's bad?
The semester will be over after next week so I'll have time to call AEM and have them troubleshoot this issue with the no rev >3000 RPM.
Anyone in the Central KY area want to be my guinea pig and let me plug my EMS in their car to see if it's possibly the unit that's bad?
#595
Advanced
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Newport, Oregon
Age: 41
Posts: 78
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Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Need an update on your car...
Dude we need an update on your car! What's been happening. I feel like this is some kind of greek epic by Homer or something. How many months will it take before your TL rides again. Should be beast when its done though.
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#596
You guys will be sad, but I removed the turbo. I'm tired of effing with this car and gas prices are killing me enough as it is. I tackled this project thinking I'd have a career in law enforcement, however my goals have improved to wanting to go to law school. Right now I have school, 2 jobs and LSAT to study for. Needless to say I don't have much time to play around. Regardless, it's still a successful 6-speed swap and I'm grateful for that. Here's what I've got so far.
I built a makeshift intake right now since I don't have much for funds. and I've hooked up the loose vacuum lines. The car starts and runs, but sounds awful. Partly because it's open j-pipe right now, but it doesn't stay running. If I rev it, as soon as it drops down to idle speeds it dies. Or if I start it, and let it run without revving, it will eventually cut off after about a minute of running. Ideas?
![](http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h299/fenderi/IMG_0296.jpg)
![](http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h299/fenderi/IMG_0297.jpg)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1z82dKEjUk
I built a makeshift intake right now since I don't have much for funds. and I've hooked up the loose vacuum lines. The car starts and runs, but sounds awful. Partly because it's open j-pipe right now, but it doesn't stay running. If I rev it, as soon as it drops down to idle speeds it dies. Or if I start it, and let it run without revving, it will eventually cut off after about a minute of running. Ideas?
![](http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h299/fenderi/IMG_0296.jpg)
![](http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h299/fenderi/IMG_0297.jpg)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1z82dKEjUk
#597
freisem2000's banned for 3 months just fyi - i thought you two were buds and havent seen you online in a while
#598
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Check your IACV just to be sure its not sticking.
#599
Would that really be the case though? It was running fine a few weeks ago with the turbo I'm thinkin maybe a vacuum line routed wrong? lol. But it idles just fine for 30 seconds or more if something was up with the IACV wouldn't it have that problem from the get go?
#600
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
There was a member on the CL side that had a similar issue (his wouldnt stay running though, it would start, run for ~2 seconds and die). He ended up cleaning the IACV and it seems to have fixed his problem, so far. You can always pull the intake off the TB, rev it and feel the port on the TB for the IACV to see if it is pulling anything in. Occasionally my IACV gives me an issue where it will idle fine on start up, but once I touch the gas it will close and then not be able to compensate once I let off the gas, resulting in a really low idle speed or possible a stall (its an easy fix that Ive been too lazy to address though).