civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

But didnt a shop do exactly that?

assclown

iTrader: (1)

yep

Jacobpockros

iTrader: (1)

a better shop then

phee

iTrader: (5)

Make sure that your 02 sensor is grounding correctly if you are using richies harness. I have that ELD code too and that was the prob.

phee

iTrader: (5)

To b honest, that sounds like a header leak... A big one

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

man finally found some time to read through your entire thread man. i hope you get it fixed and running right! its come a long way.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man. We'll see what happens tomorrow, my brother is coming in town and we'll troubleshoot the shit out of it lol.

mugenspire

iTrader: (4)

good luck!

assclown

iTrader: (1)

Much needed update:

Got tired of same old bullshit, grabbed a new engine. Installed it and it ran perfect. Smooth as can be. Take it to the shop and get new ball joints installed and exhaust work done and I got it back today. A few things I dealt with.

-Smoke coming out from the exhaust, doesn't seem to be a problem anymore, I guess because it was a junk yard engine it was burning out all the crud

-Idle problems, Idle would bounce between 800 to 1500 RPMs or so. I believe I fixed it by filling it up with new 93 (it had less than a qtr tank of fuel that is over 8 months old! And I threw some octane booster in there. The idle problem comes and goes but it seems like it's starting to go away. Hopefully it's not an IACV.

I drove it maybe 50 miles today total to get some of these bugs worked out. When I rev past 3k or so it'll bog down and start shaking.

Around 8PM or so I got into the car, started it up and started driving up a hill, it began to bog down and completely stall out, now it won't start anymore at all. it seems it just cranks and cranks and cranks, but no fire. I open the hood up and give a sniff around the fuel press. regulator and DO NOT smell fuel. I checked the fuel pump fuse, it's good, and I believe I can hear the fuel pump click when I turn the key. I checked the codes, same 3 typical codes, tq converter, trans temp and VSA codes, but nothing that would indicate otherwise. It started to get cold and really dark so that's all I've done today.

Ideas? Could it be really bad gas stuck in there? Thanks!

Here's a pic of when I brought it home and threw the front bumper back on. I need to figure out why the hood isn't fully closing (but it is fully latching). She also got a wash after the pic.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Youre 100% sure you hear the pump prime when you turn the key to ACC?

assclown

iTrader: (1)

I believe so. I can have my neighbor listen for me too

assclown

iTrader: (1)

pretty sure it's not the fuel pump, I just separated the line from the FPR and watched it when I turned the key, it sprayed a fountain of fuel.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

Seems my hunch is correct, sprayed some starting fluid in there and it started right up. Ran for 15 straight minutes, I cut it off and then started it up again. Ran just fine.

Onto the next problem, it seems the fans aren't running, I looked at the passenger side fan and the shroud is quite bent up (from removing engine and whatnot) and the blades don't spin as freely as the other fan, I imagine I'm going to need a new fan set :-/

Definitely don't want to drive this 90 miles to work tomorrow.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Check the fan switch and the relays. Jump the connections on the fans straight to the battery to verify it works. I believe the shop manual should say what the voltages should be on the fan switch.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

Roger

I did a bit of troubleshooting. Hooked up a mulitmeter to the fan plugs and didn't read anything (this was while the car was running with A/C on full blast too).

I removed both fans and took them to the trunk (where my battery is) and manually wired them to the battery, they both ran fine, therefore fans aren't bad.

I checked both cooling and condenser fan fuses, all good. Swapped the cooling and condenser fan relays, still nothing.

Where is the fan switch you speak of? Hopefully that's the problem.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

nvm, I swapped the fan switch out with another engine I have laying around, no avail. I didn't check what voltages were there though yet.

n1njai

iTrader: (3)

Your hood isn't closing all the way because the cross member underneath the car is pushed too far up meaning ur latch also sits higher. You gotta lower the radiator or lower the core support a little bit. An easy way to do this is to hook the cross member underneath the car to an anchor in the floor and have a lift move up slowly to lower it. Or u can have two jacks and just jack it up as high as possible.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

Is this possibly the problem? I'm looking through the service manual of the things that the type s has but not the base. My car is a base, but the engine/pcm is type s. What should I do?

assclown

iTrader: (1)

I can jump pins 1 and 2 on the relays for both cooling and condenser fan in the under hood relay box and both fans can work. would it be alright to rig up these jumper wires for when I drive to have both fans constantly running? I know I'd have to unplug them when I shut the car off.

n1njai

iTrader: (3)

To be honest, you shouldn't have the fan running all the time.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

I understand, but for a temporary fix it's ok right?

AznWay

iTrader: (8)

When we did my swap we not change out any wiring or fuse form the Fan relay area.

Man i wish known more about car to help you out

assclown

iTrader: (1)

cool, I was actually logging in to private message you and DC and ask if you guys did anything with this issue.

If you guys didn't change anything, and if I can jump the relay and the fans work, do you think it may be part number 3 on the list? It is labeled as:

003 37740-P0H-A02 TIMER, RADIATOR FAN (MOTOROLA) 001 2000 TL 34.05 25.54

I'm not sure where to find it though without pulling the dash, although I didn't spend a lot of time looking for it.



as you guys very well know I really suck at wiring and troubleshooting electrical issues. Let me know AT

assclown

iTrader: (1)

Update:

I'm daily driving the car now. It's soooo nice to get more than 12-14mpg (my Yukon) for a change.

What's been done (my brother and I)

-We fixed the hood issues, my brother made some adjustments and it fully closes

-We were able to find the open in the system on the parking lights so now I have those!
-We cleared all codes on the engine and then was able to get to 5k RPM max.
-I found out what this is and where it goes




Apparently it is the ELD module and it took care of quite a few issues, my irratic idle hasn't reared its ugly head in a while, the ELD code is no longer there, and the P1367 (camshaft position sensor no signal) seems to be gone too. That one kind of scared me.

So now I only have 3 codes and they are the typical ones; torque converter, trans temp, and VSA errors. Those will be fixed.

Issues that need attention:

-We need to hookup the VSS for speedo/odo and cruise
-We need to troubleshoot cooling fan issues, I imagine it's the fan timer, but I'm not sure where it is? I'm reading it's behind the radio and others say it's behind the glove box, It's been raining and I don't have a garage to pull into to mess around.
-possible pwr steering pump and rack replacement, we're leaking fluid right there on the rack, and the pump is squealing bad.
-I need two new front rotors, from sitting on jackstands for a few months, they've really gotten rusty and the steering wheel vibrates.
-and I believe the last thing is to wire up the RV6 module and that'll get rid of my 3 codes, reverse lockout and lights and VTAKKKK lol.

Stay classy AZ

Srb

Good to hear it's back up and doing well.

I got a question for you, do you know what all you gotta hook up for the cruise to work? I ask only cuz I haven't gotten my cruise to work, but I haven't attempted to really do much about it yet. Just figured if I can get a quick answer it would save me time. I have the 2 speed sensors hooked up to richies module so my speedo has been working normal. Just not sure if i missed something for the cruise control. Just takin a stab and seeing if you'd have an idea. I should probably just call rich but I know the man's usually pretty busy.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Progress!

WBA-01

iTrader: (2)

So which ecu are you running now?

assclown

iTrader: (1)

I dunno man. I figured as soon as I get the speedo working, the odometer and cruise are automatically going to start working. I want to add richies harness in last after all the bugs are hammered out. We'll see.

I've got the J32A2 ECU running in there now. Works great!





quick question, for those who have changed out the fan timer on the 2g TL/CL, where is it? behind glove box or radio? It's been raining like crazy here and don't have garage space to play around with.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I believe it is behind the radio area.

AznWay

iTrader: (8)

Keep up good work almost there man

assclown

iTrader: (1)

quick question for you guys, when you're travelling around 65-70mph in 6th gear, are you cranking around 2500 RPM? That's where I'm at on flat road and I figure that's pretty high.

AznWay

iTrader: (8)

I never go into 6th gear unless i'm doing over 70+. That 2500RPM sound about right.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Thats about right. The auto revs lower at 70.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

I believe my brother and I are going to tackle installing the RV6 harness. The wiring diagram looks easy and I have the service manual handy. Am I right guessing about 3-4 hours?

Srb

Yea shouldn't even take that long. Actual splicing into the wire harness and getting it wired up should take less than an hour if you take your time.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

What a successful night!

We've wired up the two modules to the ECU and many more.

The only thing that is not wired up right now is the clutch safety switch and the ignition switch stuff.

Still have a check engine light, I'm pulling 2 codes, 1 for "too many range switches hooked up" something along that verbage, and the other one is the VSA code. Right now my auto trans range switch is plugged in, because it won't start without it plugged in.

Speedometer works

Reverse lockout works

VTEC + full redline works!!!

On to the questions:

I'm assuming once the "start" wire of the module is hooked up to the ignition switch I should be able to take the auto trans range switch off and it should be able to start right? Where do I tap into the ignition switch? They don't have to be wired with the clutch safety (not hooked up right now) switch right?

How to I rig up the reverse lights? I saw on Richies instructions he mentions something about a pigtail for wires 3 and 9, what's that all about?

You guys with 99-01 models with type-s swaps and ECUs, how do you get rid of the VSA code so that the CEL goes away?

My brother thinks the coolant temp sensor is bad, his scanner said it was only reading 90degrees while it had been running for quite a while, he says that it would cause the fans to not run. Should I try replacing that?

Cruise does not work, is it possibly because the auto transmission range switch is hooked up and it's telling the PCM it's in park?

I think that's all the questions off top of my head. Thanks again guys! It's great to have my car in great shape.

AznWay

iTrader: (8)

1.Bottom under steering wheel area brown connection ( toward top left ) you have pull out an tap into black/wht wire an using purple wire from module.

2.For the Reverse.. after you unplug range switch an look straight at the white connection.. it go

3-2-1 [1st row]
7-6-5-4 [2nd row]
8-9-10 [3rd row]
Now just connect 3 & 9 to reverse on tranny

3. The VSA will stay ON. i just took pop out light bulb. When check engine is ON it will show you have VSA not working, but if you have no check engine light the VSA code will no pop up on OBD2 scanner. hope that make cent

4.

5. Cruise control can still work just PM or call Richie ( got to hookup 2 wire )
i dont have mine hookup no needed for it

Srb

I might be wrong on my memory, but the 3 and 9 wires should trigger the reverse lock out as well as the reverse lights? But you say you already have the lock out working? Maybe I'm not remembering something right sorry lol

Time to give rich a call for that cruise i guess And I actually have that purple wire hooked up to my s2k push button, which starts everything fine. My clutch safety switch wires weren't hooped up and the car was starting fine so yea you should be good to go once you tap into the ignition.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

On the reverse lights, you mention connecting to the range switch terminal, and then plug into what? Are you talking about #15?



Is there a plug on the auto harness that fits that or do I have to manually pin them to the range switch?




as far as the fans not working, I followed these troubleshooting guidelines,



and I'm stuck at #3, I cannot get voltage to pin #2 with the ignition switch in the ON position. It says to troubleshoot an open between that and the driver side fuse box grrrrr!!

Obviously I found the fan timer, it is located exactly behind the stereo right next to the glovebox. It's a lightweight plastic Motorola box.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

And yes, reverse lockout works. It's 3 and 9 because that's what it says in the instructions, it just doesn't really explain much on what to do.