friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

with a bit of programming to get it running better, but if you are saying to start though, then yes it should basically just start right up

assclown

iTrader: (1)

Yes, That's what tells me the fuel injectors/pump is doing its job, I just had that bent fuel line and I knew it would be a problem later down the road.

No, no spark, I'd be cranking the car over and over and over and nothing but smelling fuel. I'll have to check that fuse.

I worked a bit tonight when I got home, God damn nut is on there good. The flare nut wrench did nothing but strip it more. It has to be 14mm, because I've tried 13mm and it's too small, I tried standard and I can't remember but I think it was 9/16 that fit, but 14mm was much closer. And yes I soaked that bitch with PB blaster, and even tried banging the end of the wrench with a hammer. I have no idea what to do.

Jacobpockros

iTrader: (1)

Torch that whore, maybe it will budge then....

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

vice grips.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

would that be a good idea? Being a fuel line and all?

I was thinking that as a last resort.

looking back at this picture, it looks like the thread pattern is different. Matt said to go counter clockwise, but look in the photo. Should I try to go clockwise? Starting from driverside then moving to passenger side?

phee

iTrader: (5)

dont use vice grips unless you want it to strip. hit it with some pb blaster and tap it a few times while dousing it.

let it sit for a few hours and go back at it with good tools.

what kind of tools are you using? (brand)

assclown

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I wanted to use vice grips as last resort, because I'm going to be using that nut on the new fuel line and would rather not replace that line.

I bought a duralast flarenut wrench. would that matter much?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

You go right ahead :ginger:
considering it is already screwed up



And yeah ass standard wrenched don't work too well on metric fittings





Edit: and I don,t think I ever said it, but yes the wrench needs to go towards the passenger side, remember that in essence that nut is threaded up from the bottom, so imagine you are looking at it up from underneath for loosening it

phee

iTrader: (5)

yea. you need a metric wrench and a pipe to give you leverage. should get it off easily.


when it doubt -- make your stick bigger

or you can take a torch to it and blow the fuck up per ginger suggestion. he really has no soul

assclown

iTrader: (1)

Haha, that's what I thought. I'm no chemist, but I know fire + fuel = bigger fire.

I've only been using 14mm when turning it, I was just trying out standard to see if it would work. I'll try going from the other way and see if it gives then.

Jacobpockros

iTrader: (1)

Even if he doesn't survive it, the bolt would still come loose and that's all that matters at this point

assclown

iTrader: (1)

vice grips it is, I tried using the flare nut wrench and turning it starting from driver's side to the passenger side using a pipe, damn thing rounded. I also soaked it with Pb Blaster prior to this exercise. Honda really didn't want this shit to come off. I will probably end up replacing that line too!

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

With proper tools YOU can put the proper flare on it, basically you cut off the very end of the line,slide on a new nut and leflar as needed

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

^

Get a quality reflaring tool though.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

So I can just cut one end off and put a new nut on it without having to replace the line?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Yea. They make flaring kits.

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html

http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/f...s/flaring.html

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

Yes a quality tool is mandatory,and then you will have the tool for future use

BUT if you never plan on never using it again though, probably going to be cheaper to just buy the line itself


But imagine hard lines for the turbo,s oil supply with the necessary flex sections of corset though
or even making a larger fuel line all the way from the back for for less pressure drop at higher flow rates

assclown

iTrader: (1)

Alright, so I was able to get the old line off, (the vice grips did the trick) and was able to salvage the nut and install the new one.



And just like you guys suspected, (and I did too) it didn't do anything for the car starting. I tried checking the passenger side fuse panel like Money Pit suggested and all the fuses are intact.

Here's a video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vUcXAVaAoU

I took some screenshots (mind you I've tried starting it from both the factory and the AEM ECU)

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

next thing would be to pull ALL the plugs out, and check them for fouling, and maybe try cleaning them (i have had success with a wire brush ; very lightly doing it; then a can of brake clean to get the rest of the fouling off, it hopefully should be enough to get the engine fired, and the heat from the combustion should do the rest



also the engine almost sounds like it does not have any compression either, get one of those little oil squirt cans available at like your local parts store, or sears or so; and basically put some 10-40w oil in it (it's the "heviest"oil we got at work ) and put like 2-3 squirts into each cylinder
turn the motor over a couple of times, to help spread that oil around the cylinders, and make a better seal, enough to actually start the motor (rotary engines have a VERY similiar issue, with short trips and not being able to build proper compression for cold start)
then reinstall the plugs (new prefered, but not necessary all the time though), and crank that sucker over to see if it will start , beware that sucker will smoke like no other, till it burns off the injected oil




btw: try this first too, crank it WITH the gas pedal FULL DEPRESSED, it should go into a clear flood mode, and basically not fire the injectors at all, so you can clear out cylinders when they are "flooded" with too much fuel






edit: do this on the stock ecu, so that it takes the variable of the EMS out of the question

MoneyPit

iTrader: (1)

.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

Shit, but regardless I checked them all anyway yesterday. I'll try matt's suggestion when I get the chance.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

Thinkin about running new plugs, should I get NGK Vpower copper since this is a turbo setup?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

What I am running with the nitrous

assclown

iTrader: (1)

Cool. I went to Autozone and ordered those, picked up a quart of Castrol 10w-40 and an oil squirt can. I'll try pick up the plugs Thursday night, installing them as early as Friday afternoon or Saturday.

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

Did you get a colder plug then stock also? Or just the stock heat range?








Cause I know I wad not able to find them through the normal sources,but got them through the power sports dealer instead, but then again I was able to pick them up the same day though

And I did go one heat range colder then stock too

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

Also the reason why I went with the hopper is because I did not want to melt a plug tip off from the additional heat cause by spraying
And iirc even ngk recommends staying away from platinum plugs with nitrous

assclown

iTrader: (1)

I went with copper, is that not the colder range?

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

part # would help, but no copper does not mean it is a colder heat range, it is only the construction of the plug and materials used (which each have their pro and cons)


did you order part # ZFR6F-11 (or stock #4291) if so they are still the stock heat range


and personally i am thinking that might also be part of your running issues also, especially with detonation and such (since the turbo introduces additional heat into the combustion chamber)
and this may be a long shot, but i am wondering if you may have melted the inside of the plug, and basically shorted them out :pounder:, with them being too hot for the current conditions

btw the platinum's are easier to find in a colder range iirc, but the coppers took a little finding, the reason for going the powersports route




edit: i am also wondering if that plug gap is too large for being force induction too now, not always firing completely...





edit again: lol take pictures of the plugs also, and post please

assclown

iTrader: (1)

I believe that was the part number of those plugs. I pulled the old ones and they looked like this.









new ones


I squirted the oil up top and cranked on it. Still nothing.

Fiddling around I realized that I didn't plug in the 1 plug on the other side of the ECU. The AEM EMS doesn't have that plug on it so I figured it wasn't important, little did I know, I plugged it into the stock ECU and the car started right up. FUCK ME

I let it warm up, reloaded the AEM calibrations on the AEM system, started the car, but still..... no >3000RPM. There was a few times I was able to floor the pedal and I saw it go as far up as 5000RPM. I drove it around the neighborhood, it did drive, but again, nothing past the 3000RPM. I really hope we can get this to work, I'm halfway tempted to go the piggy back route

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

DONT GIVE UP!

Try giving AEM a call and see what they have to say about it not revving past 3k rpm.

Tell them you have an Integra with a J swap too so they dont give you any shit about it. A swap is a swap.

Jacobpockros

iTrader: (1)

^ This.

I feel for you ass, sounds like it's super frustrating....

assclown

iTrader: (1)

yeah, it's getting frustrating. I can at least say I'm thankful for having a reliable truck be it a gas guzzler, but honestly I think gas is going to cost about the same for the truck (355 V8 25 gal tank) and the car (using premium).

I remember I have a friend that has a contact with AEM. Maybe I can get him to help me out.

assclown

iTrader: (1)

I had a little bit of time to play with it today. I logged a few sessions. I posted the logs up. If you want to take a look at it

http://www.ekuvets.org/throttleruns4-9-11PCLog.stf

Jacobpockros

iTrader: (1)

assclown

iTrader: (1)

you have to download AEMTuner to view the file

friesm2000

iTrader: (4)

long time ago lol


anyways what are the channels you datalog?

phee

iTrader: (5)

would you be interested in a J&R ecu?

im getting one and my car will be the prototype for it.
here are the features.
he said he can do a group buy if we get 5 people.

features
Engine and Sequential settings
Idle Control
MAP sampling
Staged Injection
Boost Control
AFR / EGO Control
Idle Advance
AFR Safety System
Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) Generic PWMs
Generic Sensor Inputs
Spare Configurable Output Ports
SD card datalogging
Launch / flat-shift / 2-step / 3-step Speed and Gear sensors
CAN communications
E85 / Flex Fuel

Phee all that's list above is the ecu capability the ecu will come prewired and configured along with a returned base map ,the knock sensor option will be an additional 140 as this will require a small unit which we do carry ,the ecu is a true plug and play unit ......
If you have a full drag or race car or your not interested in luxury features which requires the stock ecu still in car to operate these functions, the Jandr ecu can be used independently as a true stand alone unit...


and its all plug and play

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

^ How much?

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

^x2. i need something good

JCharged

iTrader: (5)

Interested.