well ladies... the time has drawn near....
thats crap!!!
01-19-2010, 02:17 PM
#46
lets think about this though, essentially a type s engine is bigger TB and IM and higher compression? what if i just pull the a1 in my own car right now, put the light weight crank pulley on, change timing belt, water pump, valve adjustment and put type s throttle body and intake manifold, selling back the cl-s6 ecu and using richie's harness?
01-19-2010, 02:48 PM
#47
might just be a differnt cover put on there, what does it say on the block itself (right near where the starter would mount on the tranny)
also maybe post more pictures of the motor itself, especially the intake so, we can tell you if it is legit (should also have the intake runner system on the A2)
also maybe post more pictures of the motor itself, especially the intake so, we can tell you if it is legit (should also have the intake runner system on the A2)
01-19-2010, 03:26 PM
#48
i think the ecu is legit, it's just these parts are coming from different cars from different yards, and i didn't know that was what was going on.
lets think about this though, essentially a type s engine is bigger TB and IM and higher compression? what if i just pull the a1 in my own car right now, put the light weight crank pulley on, change timing belt, water pump, valve adjustment and put type s throttle body and intake manifold, selling back the cl-s6 ecu and using richie's harness?
lets think about this though, essentially a type s engine is bigger TB and IM and higher compression? what if i just pull the a1 in my own car right now, put the light weight crank pulley on, change timing belt, water pump, valve adjustment and put type s throttle body and intake manifold, selling back the cl-s6 ecu and using richie's harness?
dont skimp on the type-s engine.
get the type-s engine. sell the ecu. buy richies harness and u wont need all the wires and sensors and shit.
definitely do more research before buying any more parts
01-19-2010, 05:19 PM
#49
just got home from school....
took few snapshots, it's definately an a1
phee, sounds like a good idea. we'll see what happens, i talked to the manager (they actually answered their phone) and he said he's going to do some research.
took few snapshots, it's definately an a1
phee, sounds like a good idea. we'll see what happens, i talked to the manager (they actually answered their phone) and he said he's going to do some research.
01-19-2010, 05:30 PM
#50
let alone the intake is wrong, but yeah those markings, would be your best bet for indentifying the motor, not exactly too easy to change those
also i would try and make sure they do not say a A2 is going to cost more, cause if that is what you exactly asked for, that is their f*** up , not yours, so stand by the origional qoute
and if they won't then tell them that they can come get their motor back, and you want your full amount of money back
but for being on that stance, i would make sure that you were clear in exactly what you were ordering before
what does it say on the paper work anyways
also i would try and make sure they do not say a A2 is going to cost more, cause if that is what you exactly asked for, that is their f*** up , not yours, so stand by the origional qoute
and if they won't then tell them that they can come get their motor back, and you want your full amount of money back
but for being on that stance, i would make sure that you were clear in exactly what you were ordering before
what does it say on the paper work anyways
01-19-2010, 05:31 PM
#51
also 
the cherry picker is all shiny, and has not been used any
and it looks like you also the got the correct pickup points too on the motor, that bracket near the p/s pump, then also the intake manifold at the throttle body (honda even recommends that point when you have to remove an auto tranny from a car, so it would be supporting the auto tranny and engine while you remove the crossmember below
)
also to remove that paint on the intake manifold when you get the correct motor, carb clean works awesome for removing the paint pen
the cherry picker is all shiny, and has not been used anyand it looks like you also the got the correct pickup points too on the motor, that bracket near the p/s pump, then also the intake manifold at the throttle body (honda even recommends that point when you have to remove an auto tranny from a car, so it would be supporting the auto tranny and engine while you remove the crossmember below
)also to remove that paint on the intake manifold when you get the correct motor, carb clean works awesome for removing the paint pen
Last edited by friesm2000; 01-19-2010 at 05:35 PM.
01-19-2010, 05:40 PM
#52
let alone the intake is wrong, but yeah those markings, would be your best bet for indentifying the motor, not exactly too easy to change those
also i would try and make sure they do not say a A2 is going to cost more, cause if that is what you exactly asked for, that is their f*** up , not yours, so stand by the origional qoute
and if they won't then tell them that they can come get their motor back, and you want your full amount of money back
but for being on that stance, i would make sure that you were clear in exactly what you were ordering before
what does it say on the paper work anyways
also i would try and make sure they do not say a A2 is going to cost more, cause if that is what you exactly asked for, that is their f*** up , not yours, so stand by the origional qoute
and if they won't then tell them that they can come get their motor back, and you want your full amount of money back
but for being on that stance, i would make sure that you were clear in exactly what you were ordering before
what does it say on the paper work anyways
Engine
Acura CL(3.2L, 6 Cyl, VIN '4' 6th digit), Type-S54k$950
that's exactly what it says on the invoice, so they better replace it with an A2
also the cherry picker is all shiny, and has not been used any
and it looks like you also the got the correct pickup points too on the motor, that bracket near the p/s pump, then also the intake manifold at the throttle body (honda even recommends that point when you have to remove an auto tranny from a car, so it would be supporting the auto tranny and engine while you remove the crossmember below)
also to remove that paint on the intake manifold when you get the correct motor, carb clean works awesome for removing the paint pen
the cherry picker is all shiny, and has not been used anyand it looks like you also the got the correct pickup points too on the motor, that bracket near the p/s pump, then also the intake manifold at the throttle body (honda even recommends that point when you have to remove an auto tranny from a car, so it would be supporting the auto tranny and engine while you remove the crossmember below
)also to remove that paint on the intake manifold when you get the correct motor, carb clean works awesome for removing the paint pen
never done a swap before, not only that, but the load strap was already attached to it, that was awful nice of them, although i did happen to buy a 1000lb chain incase that strap wasn't there. i have the 2g service manual so i was researching on the lift points before i got the engine just incase i'd have to hook it up myself.
01-19-2010, 05:56 PM
#53
2003
Engine
Acura CL(3.2L, 6 Cyl, VIN '4' 6th digit), Type-S54k$950
that's exactly what it says on the invoice, so they better replace it with an A2
it's shiny cause i just bought it yesterday never done a swap before, not only that, but the load strap was already attached to it, that was awful nice of them, although i did happen to buy a 1000lb chain incase that strap wasn't there. i have the 2g service manual so i was researching on the lift points before i got the engine just incase i'd have to hook it up myself.
Engine
Acura CL(3.2L, 6 Cyl, VIN '4' 6th digit), Type-S54k$950
that's exactly what it says on the invoice, so they better replace it with an A2
it's shiny cause i just bought it yesterday
never done a swap before, not only that, but the load strap was already attached to it, that was awful nice of them, although i did happen to buy a 1000lb chain incase that strap wasn't there. i have the 2g service manual so i was researching on the lift points before i got the engine just incase i'd have to hook it up myself.also make sure to do a cylinder leak down test on it, right after you get it (bout all you can do with it out the car) to give you a geneal idea of what shape that motor is in, especially if you don't plan on rebuilding it anytime soon
ie: recently did a motor in a toyota 4runner, with 243k on it, so we put a used motor in it (not really worth it to rebuild the origional one, it had siezed up from the owner doing their own oil change, and the filter coming off
), but anyways we had recieved two bad used motors for it till we got a good one (different source though for the good one), but luckily we had tested them beforehand, so they had never actually gone into the truck itself, just on a engine stand, so it saved us alot of additional labour if we had to also remove and replace those bad engines
01-19-2010, 08:00 PM
#54
then you have plenty to stand your ground on
also make sure to do a cylinder leak down test on it, right after you get it (bout all you can do with it out the car) to give you a geneal idea of what shape that motor is in, especially if you don't plan on rebuilding it anytime soon
ie: recently did a motor in a toyota 4runner, with 243k on it, so we put a used motor in it (not really worth it to rebuild the origional one, it had siezed up from the owner doing their own oil change, and the filter coming off ), but anyways we had recieved two bad used motors for it till we got a good one (different source though for the good one), but luckily we had tested them beforehand, so they had never actually gone into the truck itself, just on a engine stand, so it saved us alot of additional labour if we had to also remove and replace those bad engines
also make sure to do a cylinder leak down test on it, right after you get it (bout all you can do with it out the car) to give you a geneal idea of what shape that motor is in, especially if you don't plan on rebuilding it anytime soon
ie: recently did a motor in a toyota 4runner, with 243k on it, so we put a used motor in it (not really worth it to rebuild the origional one, it had siezed up from the owner doing their own oil change, and the filter coming off
), but anyways we had recieved two bad used motors for it till we got a good one (different source though for the good one), but luckily we had tested them beforehand, so they had never actually gone into the truck itself, just on a engine stand, so it saved us alot of additional labour if we had to also remove and replace those bad enginesthat's what i get for dealing with non-local salvage yards, but here in redneck KY, not too many people drive acura, muchless having it in the junk yard. so i'm thinking of having them take this engine back, get me an 02-03TL A2 and use richie's harness like Phee said, and call it a day. I thought by using the CLS6 ecu it would give me higher redline and whatnot... but using richie's harness will relieve more headaches.
01-19-2010, 08:08 PM
#55
yeah i know about richie's harness, but already got a A2 in my car to start with though
only thing i would say about your car is that you don't have the manifold control to start with, so for you it might be worth it for you to actually use the cl-s ecu
but your car, so your choice in the end
and yeah the cylinder leak down test is very important just to get a geneal idea of the condition of the motor itself (don't want bent valves and such from the get go, if you can avoid it), even if you completely trust the junkyard, never hurts to check yourself
only thing i would say about your car is that you don't have the manifold control to start with, so for you it might be worth it for you to actually use the cl-s ecu
but your car, so your choice in the end
and yeah the cylinder leak down test is very important just to get a geneal idea of the condition of the motor itself (don't want bent valves and such from the get go, if you can avoid it), even if you completely trust the junkyard, never hurts to check yourself
01-19-2010, 08:20 PM
#56
ideally an auto type-s ecu and a type-s engine with richie harness is the best set up. u still wont need to change the cabon harness and richie will send u instructions on like the 15 wires to re-pin. youre choice.
i honestly dont miss a higher redline and i have my intake manifold runner stuck in the open mode. i lose about 10 hp down low before 3k compared to it being closed. but i make 31hp above 3k with it open.
(i spend more time in the higher rpms anyway)
i honestly dont miss a higher redline and i have my intake manifold runner stuck in the open mode. i lose about 10 hp down low before 3k compared to it being closed. but i make 31hp above 3k with it open.
(i spend more time in the higher rpms anyway)
01-25-2010, 02:30 PM
#58
got lots of parts today...
juan c lopez sent...
and delray sent me my shifter kit (assorted small hardware not pictured)
as far as the engine goes, i cannot get a hold of national auto salvage. i called them tuesday of last week, and alan told me that he'll look into the situation and get back to me, he never called me back, i've been calling their number everyday and it's almost been a week now and all i get is people's voicemails... i'm pretty pissed.
217-615-7606 and 217-615-7464 is them. any suggestions?
juan c lopez sent...
and delray sent me my shifter kit (assorted small hardware not pictured)
as far as the engine goes, i cannot get a hold of national auto salvage. i called them tuesday of last week, and alan told me that he'll look into the situation and get back to me, he never called me back, i've been calling their number everyday and it's almost been a week now and all i get is people's voicemails... i'm pretty pissed.
217-615-7606 and 217-615-7464 is them. any suggestions?
01-28-2010, 05:23 PM
#62
alright, so i'm finding out that there are third parties here. my deal is through national auto salvage who is based in IL, but the engine came from a company called Japan AutoTech in california. So since national auto salvage is ignoring me i called up japan auto tech and spoke with raymond. he confirmed that this engine came from a 2002 acura CL type-s and i asked him why would the tag say j32a1 if it was from a type s? he is claiming that the only difference between the type s and the base model is the higher compression, and different throttle body (which this engine came with no throttle body, gee thanks guys, they call it an accessory and i'm supposed to use my old one) and that i can use what they sent me. is this true? am i going to have to talk to Honda and have them show proof that the 2002 type s was a j32a2? i don't know i'm just very frustrated.
01-28-2010, 05:35 PM
#63
i know wikipedia is not the best resource, but this seems accurate...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_J_engine#J32
so it seems they gave me a CL-p engine? and they should definately take this one back?
Originally Posted by Wikipedia
J32
The J32 displaces 3.2 L (~195 cu in) and is a SOHC VTEC design. Bore is 89 mm (3.5 in) and stroke is 86 mm (3.4 in). Output was 225 hp (168 kW) for the J32A1, with the J32A2 raising output to 260 hp (194 kW) @ 6200 rpm and 232 lb·ft (315 N·m) @ 3500-5500 rpm. A more aggressive camshaft, freer flowing intake/exhaust, and a 2-stage intake manifold all result in a 35 hp (26 kW) increase over the J32A1. The J32A3's output in the 2004/2005 TL is 270 hp (201 kW). SAE corrected hp for the 2006-2008 TL is 258 hp (192 kW). The J32A3 also includes the one-piece exhaust manifold cast with the cylinder head, first introduced on the J30A4.
J32A1
1999-2003 Acura TL
2001-2003 Acura CL
1998-2003 Honda Inspire
J32A2
2001-2003 Acura CL Type-S
2002-2003 Acura TL Type-S
J32A3
2004-2008 Acura TL
The J32 displaces 3.2 L (~195 cu in) and is a SOHC VTEC design. Bore is 89 mm (3.5 in) and stroke is 86 mm (3.4 in). Output was 225 hp (168 kW) for the J32A1, with the J32A2 raising output to 260 hp (194 kW) @ 6200 rpm and 232 lb·ft (315 N·m) @ 3500-5500 rpm. A more aggressive camshaft, freer flowing intake/exhaust, and a 2-stage intake manifold all result in a 35 hp (26 kW) increase over the J32A1. The J32A3's output in the 2004/2005 TL is 270 hp (201 kW). SAE corrected hp for the 2006-2008 TL is 258 hp (192 kW). The J32A3 also includes the one-piece exhaust manifold cast with the cylinder head, first introduced on the J30A4.
J32A1
1999-2003 Acura TL
2001-2003 Acura CL
1998-2003 Honda Inspire
J32A2
2001-2003 Acura CL Type-S
2002-2003 Acura TL Type-S
J32A3
2004-2008 Acura TL
so it seems they gave me a CL-p engine? and they should definately take this one back?
01-28-2010, 05:36 PM
#64
still you payed for the higher compression motor, not the low compression one (there is more to it, but you get the point though)
you might have to get honda involved or something to settle the engines codes
maybe try contacting the local district atternoy or something
you might have to get honda involved or something to settle the engines codes
maybe try contacting the local district atternoy or something
01-28-2010, 05:39 PM
#65
as said wikiapedia is not the best resource, anybody can basically change it, but yes it is accurate, so the reason for honda and such, maybe try a service manual
also no way in hell is that a manual engine ethier, the manual never came in the cl-p (might also be from a tl-p, but it's the same engine anyways)
also no way in hell is that a manual engine ethier, the manual never came in the cl-p (might also be from a tl-p, but it's the same engine anyways)
Last edited by friesm2000; 01-28-2010 at 05:41 PM.
01-28-2010, 05:42 PM
#66
yeah. does anyone know a honda tech support number? i think there maybe numbers in the tranny failure thread, do you think i could call that number about this? apparantly japan auto tech says that since i did the deal through national auto salvage, they have to go through them before any action is taken anyway, and either national auto salvage is ignoring me, or the company went under (the guys voicemail still says it's wednesday january 20th). i just want my fucking engine!!!
01-28-2010, 05:50 PM
#67
yeah. does anyone know a honda tech support number? i think there maybe numbers in the tranny failure thread, do you think i could call that number about this? apparantly japan auto tech says that since i did the deal through national auto salvage, they have to go through them before any action is taken anyway, and either national auto salvage is ignoring me, or the company went under (the guys voicemail still says it's wednesday january 20th). i just want my fucking engine!!!
for honda try: https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.asp
then the contact us option in the lower right courner of the screen (has a phone number in there)
01-28-2010, 06:10 PM
#68
cool thanks, i got acura's number through the tranny failure thread, i talked to richard and he was able to confirm, that the type s (260HP) is the j32a2 and not the a1 (we already know this but i need good hard evidence). he couldn't email me with his info, but like you said fries, he looked into the cl's service manual, does anyone have this service manual handy? to make it even easier, he said it's on page 1-2, i can go to my nearest acura dealer, but that's a good 30 miles away. do you think honda would have this manual if an azine member doesn't?
01-28-2010, 06:15 PM
#69
acura dealer only or an azine member
in the dealer contracts with honda, it might say something along the lines of them not being able to work on each other's brands, idk; if correct why would they even bother buying it then
also i got the TL manual in pdf format, but it does not cover the CL though
, even though they are basically the exact same car minus the 6-speed
in the dealer contracts with honda, it might say something along the lines of them not being able to work on each other's brands, idk
; if correct why would they even bother buying it then also i got the TL manual in pdf format, but it does not cover the CL though
, even though they are basically the exact same car minus the 6-speed
01-28-2010, 06:38 PM
#71
also once you do get it returned, i think you should go for an 01-02 MDX engine, cause of the larger displacement already, but it does not include the same size valves as the A2 though , so proably still be cheaper to get an A2, and just stoke that instead
, so proably still be cheaper to get an A2, and just stoke that instead
02-02-2010, 12:49 PM
#72
so i have a feeling i know why national auto salvage is not answering their phones or returning calls. i think they went out of business, because when i went to their website, it now says domain status needs renewed, it's now a godaddy website saying it's available for purchase.... so not only do i have the wrong engine, but they also charged me $500 more than what the invoice states, so i'm technically out, $1450 because of this shitty company.
02-02-2010, 09:54 PM
#74
they've already been paid, that's the problem, but my friend's boyfriend said i should dispute the $500 with my bank and see what happens.
if i can get the $500 back then i'll probably cut my losses and sell the engine for like $500 and try to get an A2 elsewhere.
if i can get the $500 back then i'll probably cut my losses and sell the engine for like $500 and try to get an A2 elsewhere.
02-02-2010, 10:07 PM
#76
yeah i figured just hiring a lawyer would cost more than the actual dispute itself. 500 seem like a good price for an a1 with 54k miles on it? i'll sell the ecu for 450 and hopefully i'll get $500 back if the bank fights for me.
i just want this issue resolved so i can get another engine and work on it.
i just want this issue resolved so i can get another engine and work on it.
