Turbo Kit for Acura TL '04-'08
#2881
Instructor
iTrader: (4)
I had the 60a mounts on my 6mt, and lost all wheelhop. I no longer had any wheel hop with my street tires, or launching on Drag Radials at 4000rpm. The car hoooked like crazy for the first couple runs, then the clutch started slipping.
#2882
Safety Car
iTrader: (3)
I spoke with Rodney and my first shipment is coming today. But it only has the turbo, wastegate and blowoff valve.
They are still waiting for the downpipe recoating to be finished.
The rest of the kit will either ship with or around the time the downpipe does.
Hi Speed is probably going to be the first to get his in. Apparently J&R are installing Berts.
I ended up going IM motor mounts, 85a's from P2R which should be here next week.
Barry, I forgot to ask Rodney, but did you find out if the wideband o2 bung was going to come installed with the kit?
They are still waiting for the downpipe recoating to be finished.
The rest of the kit will either ship with or around the time the downpipe does.
Hi Speed is probably going to be the first to get his in. Apparently J&R are installing Berts.
I ended up going IM motor mounts, 85a's from P2R which should be here next week.
Barry, I forgot to ask Rodney, but did you find out if the wideband o2 bung was going to come installed with the kit?
Last edited by KN_TL; 02-12-2010 at 12:43 PM.
#2883
Got your mom in
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Carol City, FL
Age: 37
Posts: 2,027
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on
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I spoke with Rodney and my first shipment is coming today. But it only has the turbo, wastegate and blowoff valve.
They are still waiting for the downpipe recoating to be finished.
The rest of the kit will either ship with or around the time the downpipe does.
Hi Speed is probably going to be the first to get his in. Apparently J&R are installing Berts.
I ended up going IM motor mounts, 85a's from P2R which should be here next week.
Barry, I forgot to ask Rodney, but did you find out if the wideband o2 bung was going to come installed with the kit?
They are still waiting for the downpipe recoating to be finished.
The rest of the kit will either ship with or around the time the downpipe does.
Hi Speed is probably going to be the first to get his in. Apparently J&R are installing Berts.
I ended up going IM motor mounts, 85a's from P2R which should be here next week.
Barry, I forgot to ask Rodney, but did you find out if the wideband o2 bung was going to come installed with the kit?
Also as an update for everyone, the coating will take a little longer than usual. Reason being, when Rodney's was done the coating it began to chip and fade after only being on for about a month or so. Since we we'rent satisfied, we notified them and they'll take some extra time to ensure a quality finish.
#2884
What are you coating with, Powder, Ceramic? And why, if the exhaust piping is made of the material it should be (409 Stainless) then it should not need coating, maybe wrapping to try to keep some heat down.
#2886
Safety Car
RACING ATF FOR THE TURBO'ED 5AT
For the 5AT situation, I wonder how beneficial it would be to run an ATF with less friction modifiers (henceforth referred to as FM).
A little background for those less familiar with FM. Most ATF has varying amounts of FM. The FM is an additive that causes the clutches and bands to slip while shifting gears. The induced slipping allows the car to have smooth shifts, which is demand by modern drivers for comfort.
However, the FM does compromise the clutches' overall holding ability. With the turbo (a torque monster), the first step in beefing-up the auto trans is to increase the holding ability of the clutch packs. Thus, an ATF with less FM seems desirable.
The Z1 is loaded with FM. I have been using Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF for the past 40k miles. The M1 has significantly less FM than the Z1. With the M1, a person will notice firmer, quicker shifts. I am desiring an even firmer shift for my N/A application, thus my interest in this topic.
Amsoil offers their "Super Shift Racing Transmission Fluid". RedLine offers their "Racing ATF (Type F)" and "Lightweight Racing ATF". These three ATF are synthetic fluids with no FM (sometimes referred to as a Type F). The RedLine "Lightweight Racing ATF" and Amsoil "Super Shift Racing Transmission Fluid" are stated by the manufacturer to be fully compatible with other brands synthetic ATF.
I propose for our discussion that a combination of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and a non-FM racing ATF (a choice of one mentioned in previous paragraph) can be used to beef-up our transmission to handle more torque without slippage issues arising. With me using the M1 for the past 40k miles with no issues in my 2006 TL and in the wife's RL for the past 60k miles, we can at least say that the M1 is probably safe for our 5AT.
Because the racing fluids are fully compatible with the M1, we can alter to ratio of the two to alter the overall level of FM contained in the mixture. From brief reading, I have read that it is common for an auto trans to develop torque converter lock-up shutter when the levels of FM are too low. I plan to research more (Google'ing) on this topic.
I am seriously considering to try the racing fluid in my trans. I already have the M1 in the trans. I do an ATF drain every 3000 miles when I do an engine oil change. I am thinking about adding one quart of the racing fluid every 3k miles until the trans develops drivability issues. I can then easily back off of the mixture ratio.
For the 5AT situation, I wonder how beneficial it would be to run an ATF with less friction modifiers (henceforth referred to as FM).
A little background for those less familiar with FM. Most ATF has varying amounts of FM. The FM is an additive that causes the clutches and bands to slip while shifting gears. The induced slipping allows the car to have smooth shifts, which is demand by modern drivers for comfort.
However, the FM does compromise the clutches' overall holding ability. With the turbo (a torque monster), the first step in beefing-up the auto trans is to increase the holding ability of the clutch packs. Thus, an ATF with less FM seems desirable.
The Z1 is loaded with FM. I have been using Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF for the past 40k miles. The M1 has significantly less FM than the Z1. With the M1, a person will notice firmer, quicker shifts. I am desiring an even firmer shift for my N/A application, thus my interest in this topic.
Amsoil offers their "Super Shift Racing Transmission Fluid". RedLine offers their "Racing ATF (Type F)" and "Lightweight Racing ATF". These three ATF are synthetic fluids with no FM (sometimes referred to as a Type F). The RedLine "Lightweight Racing ATF" and Amsoil "Super Shift Racing Transmission Fluid" are stated by the manufacturer to be fully compatible with other brands synthetic ATF.
I propose for our discussion that a combination of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and a non-FM racing ATF (a choice of one mentioned in previous paragraph) can be used to beef-up our transmission to handle more torque without slippage issues arising. With me using the M1 for the past 40k miles with no issues in my 2006 TL and in the wife's RL for the past 60k miles, we can at least say that the M1 is probably safe for our 5AT.
Because the racing fluids are fully compatible with the M1, we can alter to ratio of the two to alter the overall level of FM contained in the mixture. From brief reading, I have read that it is common for an auto trans to develop torque converter lock-up shutter when the levels of FM are too low. I plan to research more (Google'ing) on this topic.
I am seriously considering to try the racing fluid in my trans. I already have the M1 in the trans. I do an ATF drain every 3000 miles when I do an engine oil change. I am thinking about adding one quart of the racing fluid every 3k miles until the trans develops drivability issues. I can then easily back off of the mixture ratio.
#2888
18psi
iTrader: (7)
when rodney told me he would come to new jersey to install the kit i as jumping for joy lol
ive been using the amsoils synthetic atf for the past 8 thousand miles i think and the shifts are snapier then the z1. meaning it seems like it shifts quicker. the fluid is still the same color as the day i put it in. amsoils synthetic atf has some friction modifiers like the z1 but not as much.
IHC had recommended that i use either amsoil or redline d4. i choose amsoil because i had a lot of miles on my tranny and didnt want to switch to a fluid that had no friction modifiers. after seeing how well the amsoil performs, i would definitely give redline d4 a try. only problem is that i still have like 6 quarts laying around.
im going to stick with the amsoil atf for a while and see how it performs with the turbo. i know some of the supercharged guys are using redlines high temp atf and they like it.
i was thinking about slowly introducing amsoils super shift atf with no friction modifiers to what i already have and keep a close eye on the shifts.
ive been using the amsoils synthetic atf for the past 8 thousand miles i think and the shifts are snapier then the z1. meaning it seems like it shifts quicker. the fluid is still the same color as the day i put it in. amsoils synthetic atf has some friction modifiers like the z1 but not as much.
IHC had recommended that i use either amsoil or redline d4. i choose amsoil because i had a lot of miles on my tranny and didnt want to switch to a fluid that had no friction modifiers. after seeing how well the amsoil performs, i would definitely give redline d4 a try. only problem is that i still have like 6 quarts laying around.
im going to stick with the amsoil atf for a while and see how it performs with the turbo. i know some of the supercharged guys are using redlines high temp atf and they like it.
i was thinking about slowly introducing amsoils super shift atf with no friction modifiers to what i already have and keep a close eye on the shifts.
Last edited by libert69; 02-12-2010 at 04:51 PM.
#2889
Safety Car
Please don't confuse RedLine D4 with the racing versions ("Racing ATF (Type F)" and "Lightweight Racing ATF").
The Redline D4 is probably very similar to the Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in regards to the amount of FM.
The Amsoil "Super Shift Racing Transmission Fluid" and RedLine "Racing ATF (Type F)" and "Lightweight Racing ATF" have zero FM.
Just to clarify.
The Redline D4 is probably very similar to the Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in regards to the amount of FM.
The Amsoil "Super Shift Racing Transmission Fluid" and RedLine "Racing ATF (Type F)" and "Lightweight Racing ATF" have zero FM.
Just to clarify.
#2892
18psi
iTrader: (7)
Please don't confuse RedLine D4 with the racing versions ("Racing ATF (Type F)" and "Lightweight Racing ATF").
The Redline D4 is probably very similar to the Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in regards to the amount of FM.
The Amsoil "Super Shift Racing Transmission Fluid" and RedLine "Racing ATF (Type F)" and "Lightweight Racing ATF" have zero FM.
Just to clarify.
The Redline D4 is probably very similar to the Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in regards to the amount of FM.
The Amsoil "Super Shift Racing Transmission Fluid" and RedLine "Racing ATF (Type F)" and "Lightweight Racing ATF" have zero FM.
Just to clarify.
i have to pick up the shipment tomorrow. fedex always comes after 3pm and im always at work
#2894
Team Owner
Very, very nice! Those are some of THE best turbo components you can buy. The turbo alone is awesome, if I could pick one that is exactly what I would get for the TL. In fact I'm running the same setup just a lot larger.
The only negative is I hate the sound of that BOV. My father is running it on his 800+ rwhp car. But it's an awesome BOV.
#2895
Team Owner
Please don't confuse RedLine D4 with the racing versions ("Racing ATF (Type F)" and "Lightweight Racing ATF").
The Redline D4 is probably very similar to the Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in regards to the amount of FM.
The Amsoil "Super Shift Racing Transmission Fluid" and RedLine "Racing ATF (Type F)" and "Lightweight Racing ATF" have zero FM.
Just to clarify.
The Redline D4 is probably very similar to the Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in regards to the amount of FM.
The Amsoil "Super Shift Racing Transmission Fluid" and RedLine "Racing ATF (Type F)" and "Lightweight Racing ATF" have zero FM.
Just to clarify.
There are 4 basic types of fluids.
-Dex III equivalent
-Highly friction modified Z1 (Chrysler ATF+4 I think but not positive)
-Newer thinner fluids like Dex VI with a slightly thinner and better base oil.
-Non friction modified fluid known as Type F.
There are two different types of friction when dealing with a transmission. I hope my terminology is right, it's been a while. There's dynamic friction which is the friction between a moving part and a non moving part or two parts moving at different speeds as they're being pressed together. Then there's static friction which is the friction or holding power once everything is locked together.
There are some fluids that can actually have a fairly high static while having a low dynamic which gives softer shifts and a lot of holding power. I've been out of the loop for a while so I don't remember specific brands.
Generally the "Type F" fluids will have a much higher dynamic friction and a somewhat higher static friction. You just have to be careful because some clutch materials can be torn up by a non friction modified fluid. As long as you put it in slowly and use common sense paying attention to feel you probably won't have any problems.
I need to get started tearing one of these units down to get the specifics. You have solenoids that have the potential to soften shifts according to computer outputs. You have accumulators there to soften shifts (remember the old shift kits that included stiffer accumulator springs) or what I did as an 18 yr old, install a solid piece of metal to lock out the accumulators which caused part throttle chirps going into 4th lol. I honestly don't know Honda's strategy on these units. Then there's the DBW that can pull back throttle for a few miliseconds to reduce torque during shifts.
We know that it's that balance between parts breakage and clutch wear that we're looking for. I have a feeling we will be able to err on the "type F side" with the TL just because of the DBW system but again I don't know if it only pulls throttle under heavy throttle or with every shift at light throttle. Maybe NVA-V6 knows the answer.
My main point is to say that there's a small chance you could end up with a fluid with less static holding power. Very unlikely but I thought I would throw it out there. And "static" and "dynamic" might not be the correct terms but you get what I mean..
I'm really glad to see you trying this. I may do the same depending on your results. I have to do the 3X3 drain and fill with D4 this weekend (if I get my car out of the bodyshop tomorrow) and I'll get a week or two of drive time so I can post results and then maybe it's time to do some mixing.
I probably missed it but are you going to run the Redline fluid? Just curious, it seems to have the best base oil and the cleaning effects of an ester should be particularly valuable in a transmission. Not to go off on a tangent but there's less need for detergents which leaves more room for lubrication.
There is some info on bobistheoilguy in the transmission section. Just make sure to search for at least 2 years ago before all the internet know it all idiots arrived giving poor opinions as facts.
Looking forward to your results. I wonder if they're going to be exaggerated slightly by the weight of your car??
#2896
SHAWD 04TL is in
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FREAKIN KILLER!!!!! begining to think this thread was just a huge pratical joke on all us 3rd GEN TLERS.... JK
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#2897
Got your mom in
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Location: Carol City, FL
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when rodney told me he would come to new jersey to install the kit i as jumping for joy lol
ive been using the amsoils synthetic atf for the past 8 thousand miles i think and the shifts are snapier then the z1. meaning it seems like it shifts quicker. the fluid is still the same color as the day i put it in. amsoils synthetic atf has some friction modifiers like the z1 but not as much.
IHC had recommended that i use either amsoil or redline d4. i choose amsoil because i had a lot of miles on my tranny and didnt want to switch to a fluid that had no friction modifiers. after seeing how well the amsoil performs, i would definitely give redline d4 a try. only problem is that i still have like 6 quarts laying around.
im going to stick with the amsoil atf for a while and see how it performs with the turbo. i know some of the supercharged guys are using redlines high temp atf and they like it.
i was thinking about slowly introducing amsoils super shift atf with no friction modifiers to what i already have and keep a close eye on the shifts.
ive been using the amsoils synthetic atf for the past 8 thousand miles i think and the shifts are snapier then the z1. meaning it seems like it shifts quicker. the fluid is still the same color as the day i put it in. amsoils synthetic atf has some friction modifiers like the z1 but not as much.
IHC had recommended that i use either amsoil or redline d4. i choose amsoil because i had a lot of miles on my tranny and didnt want to switch to a fluid that had no friction modifiers. after seeing how well the amsoil performs, i would definitely give redline d4 a try. only problem is that i still have like 6 quarts laying around.
im going to stick with the amsoil atf for a while and see how it performs with the turbo. i know some of the supercharged guys are using redlines high temp atf and they like it.
i was thinking about slowly introducing amsoils super shift atf with no friction modifiers to what i already have and keep a close eye on the shifts.
#2898
Safety Car
IHC,
You have the terminology correct, at least to me. These terms (static friction and dynamic friction) are common science (Physics) terms. The static friction is often shortened as stiction.
Thank you for pointing out that an atf could increase one while reducing the other form of friction. I would never had thought that. Interesting.
The DBW does reduce the throttle at light throttle too. If I had to guess (based on my experiences and perceptions), I would say that the computer partially closes the throttle butterfly between shifts for the same period of time regardless of the pedal position. I would even say that the computer closes the butterfly to the same degree regardless of pedal position. The duration and level of butterfly closure is the same regardless of gear too.
The above paragraph is just generally speaking. Of course I have not timed the shifts with a stop watch or filmed the butterfly closure amount during shifts. It is all based on my experiences and perceptions.
As a reminded, my TL in no way resembles the oem TL. With the oem TL, a person is not able to hear or sense what the engine/trans is doing. I am very much able to hear and feel it with my stripped interior/insulation, solid mounts, and louder exhaust. And you are right about the light weight magnifying the feel of the shifts. As I have removed weight, I have very much noticed the shifts becoming more and more harsh, which I love.
I am glad to see that you favor the Redline. I had my eye on using the Redline "Lightweight Racing ATF". I will probably place my order on Monday for the Redline "Lightweight Racing ATF". I will install just one quart the first weekend after receiving it.
The results will be greatly exaggerated by the weight of my car, for sure. That I can tell you already. During light throttle shifts during the 1st-2nd gear shift with the M1, I am already experiencing a mild neck snap. This has become more and more pronounced as I have removed weight over the past year.
You have the terminology correct, at least to me. These terms (static friction and dynamic friction) are common science (Physics) terms. The static friction is often shortened as stiction.
Thank you for pointing out that an atf could increase one while reducing the other form of friction. I would never had thought that. Interesting.
The DBW does reduce the throttle at light throttle too. If I had to guess (based on my experiences and perceptions), I would say that the computer partially closes the throttle butterfly between shifts for the same period of time regardless of the pedal position. I would even say that the computer closes the butterfly to the same degree regardless of pedal position. The duration and level of butterfly closure is the same regardless of gear too.
The above paragraph is just generally speaking. Of course I have not timed the shifts with a stop watch or filmed the butterfly closure amount during shifts. It is all based on my experiences and perceptions.
As a reminded, my TL in no way resembles the oem TL. With the oem TL, a person is not able to hear or sense what the engine/trans is doing. I am very much able to hear and feel it with my stripped interior/insulation, solid mounts, and louder exhaust. And you are right about the light weight magnifying the feel of the shifts. As I have removed weight, I have very much noticed the shifts becoming more and more harsh, which I love.
I am glad to see that you favor the Redline. I had my eye on using the Redline "Lightweight Racing ATF". I will probably place my order on Monday for the Redline "Lightweight Racing ATF". I will install just one quart the first weekend after receiving it.
The results will be greatly exaggerated by the weight of my car, for sure. That I can tell you already. During light throttle shifts during the 1st-2nd gear shift with the M1, I am already experiencing a mild neck snap. This has become more and more pronounced as I have removed weight over the past year.
#2899
18psi
iTrader: (7)
IHC, I probably have close to 95% amsoil syn atf and 5% z1 in the trans. If I was to start introducing amsoils super shift, whats the best method? would adding 3 quarts at time be too much? maybe 1.5 super shift and 1.5 synthetic?
I figured its gonna need a few test runs and a few dyno pulls. are you guys gonna beat up my baby?
I figured its gonna need a few test runs and a few dyno pulls. are you guys gonna beat up my baby?
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#2901
Safety Car
i wonder how harsh the shifts are with no friction modifiers. if they are super fast then im sold. like i said in the other post, im going to start doing one drain and fill (3 quarts) and adding amsoils super shift atf to the amsoil sythentic atf already in the trans. ill see if i can find a good balance.
On the other hand, I did perceive that my shifts became much quicker when I switched to M1. So, maybe the shifts will quicken somewhat with the racing fluid too. We will see.
In a similar way, I doubt that the shifts will become too much more harsh beyond what we felt with the M1 and D4. The throttle becomes partially closed during the shift. In my honest opinion, I think that the throttle closes almost completely during the shift. This is why I think the harshness will not increase much with the racing fluid.
I think the limiting factor will be drivability issues. Primarily, I think we will develop shutter problems when the torque converter goes into lock-up. I say this because the little reading (google’ing) that I have done seems to indicate this issue will arise. But, the good thing is that this issue will be easily reversible by removing some of the racing fluid. Then, this will be our ideal ratio of “Dex III” to “Type F”.
You have a good question of how much racing fluid should be added for the first dosage. Perhaps I am being too conservative with the one quart. Perhaps I will start with 3 quarts for the first installment. When I was introducing the M1 to my trans, I remember that I felt nearly nothing after the first drain. I really felt a difference after the second drain.
#2902
18psi
iTrader: (7)
i told them to hold it so i could pick it up tomorrow. not like i can do anything with it but stare at it :gheylaugh:
interesting information
so when are you planning to start adding some type F fluid? detailed results please
I really doubt that the shifts will become much quicker. I think that I had read in the Service Manual that the PCM is programmed to have the shift to occur over a set amount of time. If true, then the fluid would have no way to change the duration of the shift. The PCM is programmed for the shift to occur in x milliseconds. Can’t change that without reprogramming the PCM.
On the other hand, I did perceive that my shifts became much quicker when I switched to M1. So, maybe the shifts will quicken somewhat with the racing fluid too. We will see.
In a similar way, I doubt that the shifts will become too much more harsh beyond what we felt with the M1 and D4. The throttle becomes partially closed during the shift. In my honest opinion, I think that the throttle closes almost completely during the shift. This is why I think the harshness will not increase much with the racing fluid.
I think the limiting factor will be drivability issues. Primarily, I think we will develop shutter problems when the torque converter goes into lock-up. I say this because the little reading (google’ing) that I have done seems to indicate this issue will arise. But, the good thing is that this issue will be easily reversible by removing some of the racing fluid. Then, this will be our ideal ratio of “Dex III” to “Type F”.
You have a good question of how much racing fluid should be added for the first dosage. Perhaps I am being too conservative with the one quart. Perhaps I will start with 3 quarts for the first installment. When I was introducing the M1 to my trans, I remember that I felt nearly nothing after the first drain. I really felt a difference after the second drain.
On the other hand, I did perceive that my shifts became much quicker when I switched to M1. So, maybe the shifts will quicken somewhat with the racing fluid too. We will see.
In a similar way, I doubt that the shifts will become too much more harsh beyond what we felt with the M1 and D4. The throttle becomes partially closed during the shift. In my honest opinion, I think that the throttle closes almost completely during the shift. This is why I think the harshness will not increase much with the racing fluid.
I think the limiting factor will be drivability issues. Primarily, I think we will develop shutter problems when the torque converter goes into lock-up. I say this because the little reading (google’ing) that I have done seems to indicate this issue will arise. But, the good thing is that this issue will be easily reversible by removing some of the racing fluid. Then, this will be our ideal ratio of “Dex III” to “Type F”.
You have a good question of how much racing fluid should be added for the first dosage. Perhaps I am being too conservative with the one quart. Perhaps I will start with 3 quarts for the first installment. When I was introducing the M1 to my trans, I remember that I felt nearly nothing after the first drain. I really felt a difference after the second drain.
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#2906
takin care of Business in
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#2907
Burning Brakes
I spoke with Shaun @ P2r about a good deal on innovative mount packaged shipped 75a , 85a or which ever is your preference and he has agreed for more info email me @ tl20046speed@yahoo.com
#2909
Safety Car
iTrader: (3)
I spoke with Shaun @ P2r about a good deal on innovative mount packaged shipped 75a , 85a or which ever is your preference and he has agreed for more info email me @ tl20046speed@yahoo.com
#2912
Got your mom in
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ha6LoLVsi6s
this is both Darrin and Rodney doing an in-car
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMdRWcZ7jx4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Km0laVZajU
Rodney Driving
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKKS9N1eMhE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMY3YlVQNXw
i left out two of the videos because your tag was exposed and we really dont need any extra attention on Beeline.
this is both Darrin and Rodney doing an in-car
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMdRWcZ7jx4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Km0laVZajU
Rodney Driving
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKKS9N1eMhE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMY3YlVQNXw
i left out two of the videos because your tag was exposed and we really dont need any extra attention on Beeline.
#2920
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)