Turbo Kit for Acura TL '04-'08
#4761
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (18)
Like I said, Im not here to cause trouble but I have been in a M90 3.6 build and it pulls hard. He ran 3 cars on a C6 corvette on a conservative street tune.
#4763
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
#4764
18psi
iTrader: (7)
why are we even arguing about a s/c in a damn turbo thread? Nobody seems to care but you Ack. Give it a rest. The paul nut hugging is out of control. Make a paul s/c VS rodney turbo thread if you care so much
My ECU parts are in along with a few other members parts as well. I have all the valve train parts from KMS except the the valve guides (in transit). I think I mentioned it already but the KMS parts are going in type-s heads with type-s cams.
Once the ecu is assembled, they are testing the the brake torquing capabilities.
My ECU parts are in along with a few other members parts as well. I have all the valve train parts from KMS except the the valve guides (in transit). I think I mentioned it already but the KMS parts are going in type-s heads with type-s cams.
Once the ecu is assembled, they are testing the the brake torquing capabilities.
#4765
Team Owner
#4766
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
#4767
Safety Car
iTrader: (3)
My ECU parts are in along with a few other members parts as well. I have all the valve train parts from KMS except the the valve guides (in transit). I think I mentioned it already but the KMS parts are going in type-s heads with type-s cams.
Once the ecu is assembled, they are testing the the brake torquing capabilities.
Once the ecu is assembled, they are testing the the brake torquing capabilities.
I haven't checked to see if the only dyno in the area knows how to tune a MS ECU. If not, I may be traveling to NJ to see the shop you use.
#4768
Instructor
iTrader: (4)
No ricer flyby here it was an auto from about 50-115ish.
More ecu's are being built right now. They will be tested on a couple NA cars, as well as a few autos. I will also be converting mine to throttle cable throttle instead of dbw.
Last edited by TLdream; 04-26-2011 at 08:48 PM.
#4769
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
its not a TL, Its a honda prelude. J35a8 motor in a prelude, so its around 2800lbs and around 300whp.
No ricer flyby here it was an auto from about 50-115ish.
More ecu's are being built right now. They will be tested on a couple NA cars, as well as a few autos. I will also be converting mine to throttle cable throttle instead of dbw.
No ricer flyby here it was an auto from about 50-115ish.
More ecu's are being built right now. They will be tested on a couple NA cars, as well as a few autos. I will also be converting mine to throttle cable throttle instead of dbw.
#4771
I can't say it enough... I really want to see this 'lude of yours in person. Did you end up fabricating the motor/tranny mounts yourself? What other obstacles did you have to overcome dropping the J35 in that chassis?
#4772
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
note: TLdream is not a bullshitter.. Majofo still is.
#4773
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
TLdream.. start a build thread in Car Talk located in the Off-Topic section. Many guys have threads documenting their builds there.
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-talk-5/
https://acurazine.com/forums/car-talk-5/
#4774
Instructor
iTrader: (4)
TLdream.. start a build thread in Car Talk located in the Off-Topic section. Many guys have threads documenting their builds there.
https://acurazine.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=5
https://acurazine.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=5
#4776
Team Owner
#4780
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (18)
Also on this standalone. It was discussed on , but no answer. What sets this apart from the FIC? I am still a little confused because there are some good things about it such as it will enable redline to be further up in the RPM band, but that also on the other hand won't be good for our stock rods or even if you went TYPE-S rods / bearings.
I have a FIC and don't want to mess with the redline, so im just wondering what else it would do for me that would justify me selling the FIC that I just put a $500 tune on.
Also, do you often come to NJ? Would you tune it?
#4782
Team Owner
Where does the pod go?
Also on this standalone. It was discussed on , but no answer. What sets this apart from the FIC? I am still a little confused because there are some good things about it such as it will enable redline to be further up in the RPM band, but that also on the other hand won't be good for our stock rods or even if you went TYPE-S rods / bearings.
I have a FIC and don't want to mess with the redline, so im just wondering what else it would do for me that would justify me selling the FIC that I just put a $500 tune on.
Also, do you often come to NJ? Would you tune it?
Also on this standalone. It was discussed on , but no answer. What sets this apart from the FIC? I am still a little confused because there are some good things about it such as it will enable redline to be further up in the RPM band, but that also on the other hand won't be good for our stock rods or even if you went TYPE-S rods / bearings.
I have a FIC and don't want to mess with the redline, so im just wondering what else it would do for me that would justify me selling the FIC that I just put a $500 tune on.
Also, do you often come to NJ? Would you tune it?
#4783
Safety Car
Generally speaking, going beyond a factory redline limit is more of a "concern" than a "danger". That is, it is generally ok to go way beyond the oem limit by +1000 (or perhaps +2000 RPM with other brand of motors) without harm to the engine.
However, going beyond the oem limit is a real danger in regards to valve float. The valve springs MUST be replace with stiffer springs.
In my earlier years, I exceeded the oem limit in my 1985 Iroc-z by +1500 RPM. The rod bearing were in perfect shape upon later inspection. The oem limit was 5500. After installing a much bigger camshaft (252 degrees at 0.050" of lift) and installing stiffer springs, I used 7000 RPM as my shift point for two years.
However, going beyond the oem limit is a real danger in regards to valve float. The valve springs MUST be replace with stiffer springs.
In my earlier years, I exceeded the oem limit in my 1985 Iroc-z by +1500 RPM. The rod bearing were in perfect shape upon later inspection. The oem limit was 5500. After installing a much bigger camshaft (252 degrees at 0.050" of lift) and installing stiffer springs, I used 7000 RPM as my shift point for two years.
Last edited by Inaccurate; 05-16-2011 at 02:48 PM.
#4784
Team Owner
Generally speaking, going beyond a factory redline limit is more of a "concern" than a "danger". That is, it is generally ok to go way beyond the oem limit by +1000 (or perhaps +2000 RPM with other brand of motors) without harm to the engine.
However, going beyond the oem limit is a real danger in regards to valve float. The valve springs MUST be replace with stiffer springs.
In my earlier years, I exceeded the oem limit in my 1985 Iroc-z by +1500 RPM. The rod bearing were in perfect shape upon later inspection. The oem limit was 5500. After installing a much bigger camshaft (252 degrees at 0.050" of lift) and installing stiffer springs, I used 7000 RPM as my shift point for two years.
However, going beyond the oem limit is a real danger in regards to valve float. The valve springs MUST be replace with stiffer springs.
In my earlier years, I exceeded the oem limit in my 1985 Iroc-z by +1500 RPM. The rod bearing were in perfect shape upon later inspection. The oem limit was 5500. After installing a much bigger camshaft (252 degrees at 0.050" of lift) and installing stiffer springs, I used 7000 RPM as my shift point for two years.
The TL's stock redline scared me in the beginning. I was used to shifting at 4,900rpm and taking it to 5,700rpm for the really tough races in the GN. The first time we spun my father's built engine up to 8,500rpm on the dyno, I was walking away very quickly.
But you're very right, valve springs are usually the limiting factor and that's a good thing. I've found that higher mileage factory bottom ends seem to take the high rpm abuse better.
Last edited by I hate cars; 05-16-2011 at 05:41 PM.
#4785
Burning Brakes
#4786
Safety Car
I know that some people are opposed to having A-column gauges (understandably so). However, this location does offer advantages. I can tell you from my firsthand experience that the A-column is a fantastic position for viewing/monitoring the gauges. The A-column gauges are up-close, personal, and close to your field of vision while driving. They are the next best thing to a Heads Up Display.
A-column located gauges are outstanding (pun intended).
Rodney - I am hugely impressed. Offering turbo focused accessories like this will help to put J&R on the map (from a marketing perspective). (two thumbs up)
A-column located gauges are outstanding (pun intended).
Rodney - I am hugely impressed. Offering turbo focused accessories like this will help to put J&R on the map (from a marketing perspective). (two thumbs up)
#4788
Burning Brakes
http://i519.photobucket.com/albums/u...8/IMAG0065.jpg
kn ill agree with you where i have mine in lower compartment is a bit hard to look at but the real reason i actually put them there was in the beginning during r&d me and the tuner would do regular drives and testing but it was hard for him to see gauges so nite i was bored i install them there really like it as its stealth neat but it worked out great for te tuner as he could monitor and see as i drive ..
Inaccuarte actually said it best its way easier to catch a quick glance under oost if needed...
#4790
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
#4791
Instructor
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Central New Jersey
Age: 39
Posts: 170
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So did anyone manage to get the turbo running "normally" in a Type S ?? I'm sure it will be a bitch to tune. Probably would be a good idea to lower the compression ratio as well.
Hopefully this kit will be available for the Type S in the future as an actual kit
and raising the redline combined with the added power, wouldn't that stress out the stock valve springs a lil too much?? I gotta tell you I'd be pretty spooked having to shift at 10,000 rpm in a V6.
Hopefully this kit will be available for the Type S in the future as an actual kit
and raising the redline combined with the added power, wouldn't that stress out the stock valve springs a lil too much?? I gotta tell you I'd be pretty spooked having to shift at 10,000 rpm in a V6.
#4792
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
So did anyone manage to get the turbo running "normally" in a Type S ?? I'm sure it will be a bitch to tune. Probably would be a good idea to lower the compression ratio as well.
Hopefully this kit will be available for the Type S in the future as an actual kit
and raising the redline combined with the added power, wouldn't that stress out the stock valve springs a lil too much?? I gotta tell you I'd be pretty spooked having to shift at 10,000 rpm in a V6.
Hopefully this kit will be available for the Type S in the future as an actual kit
and raising the redline combined with the added power, wouldn't that stress out the stock valve springs a lil too much?? I gotta tell you I'd be pretty spooked having to shift at 10,000 rpm in a V6.
my
fucking
god
#4793
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (18)
So did anyone manage to get the turbo running "normally" in a Type S ?? I'm sure it will be a bitch to tune. Probably would be a good idea to lower the compression ratio as well.
Hopefully this kit will be available for the Type S in the future as an actual kit
and raising the redline combined with the added power, wouldn't that stress out the stock valve springs a lil too much?? I gotta tell you I'd be pretty spooked having to shift at 10,000 rpm in a V6.
Hopefully this kit will be available for the Type S in the future as an actual kit
and raising the redline combined with the added power, wouldn't that stress out the stock valve springs a lil too much?? I gotta tell you I'd be pretty spooked having to shift at 10,000 rpm in a V6.
This is a complete kit already minus the tune/gauges/water-meth and 3" exhaust. Not sure how much of this thread you have read but the J series has come a long way in the last 6-8 months as closed loop has a solution as well as AEM makes an FIC to control timing and everything else you would need to do.
#4795
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
#4796
Race Director
this is a quick pic of them lit up
http://i519.photobucket.com/albums/u...8/IMAG0065.jpg
kn ill agree with you where i have mine in lower compartment is a bit hard to look at but the real reason i actually put them there was in the beginning during r&d me and the tuner would do regular drives and testing but it was hard for him to see gauges so nite i was bored i install them there really like it as its stealth neat but it worked out great for te tuner as he could monitor and see as i drive ..
Inaccuarte actually said it best its way easier to catch a quick glance under oost if needed...
http://i519.photobucket.com/albums/u...8/IMAG0065.jpg
kn ill agree with you where i have mine in lower compartment is a bit hard to look at but the real reason i actually put them there was in the beginning during r&d me and the tuner would do regular drives and testing but it was hard for him to see gauges so nite i was bored i install them there really like it as its stealth neat but it worked out great for te tuner as he could monitor and see as i drive ..
Inaccuarte actually said it best its way easier to catch a quick glance under oost if needed...
#4797
Team Owner
There will never be a normal running FI car. Your right about the valve's and as many don't agree with me pushing the rods and bearings past 7k isn't the best either.
This is a complete kit already minus the tune/gauges/water-meth and 3" exhaust. Not sure how much of this thread you have read but the J series has come a long way in the last 6-8 months as closed loop has a solution as well as AEM makes an FIC to control timing and everything else you would need to do.
This is a complete kit already minus the tune/gauges/water-meth and 3" exhaust. Not sure how much of this thread you have read but the J series has come a long way in the last 6-8 months as closed loop has a solution as well as AEM makes an FIC to control timing and everything else you would need to do.
FI is just extending the usable throttle range. A NA car has a range from -20 to 0psi. A turbo car can have a range from -20 to 25+psi. That's it. All you're doing is transitioning from vacuum to pressure, nothing special about that and nothing hard about that. It's when people decide to push the envelope and go for that extra few hp that bad things happen just as they would if you were getting the power from a different source.