Pro pics can be found here

http://john4kc.smugmug.com/NASARacin...7503&k=ggC94St

 

Love the footwork video. Is the sound off a little from the footwork video, I'm just trying to figure out if there's a slight delay in throttle response or not.

Also, weird question but what size shoes do you wear? Just trying to get an idea of the pedal relationship since I've only driven one manual TL much less rev match/braking downshifts.

 

The sound is close but not exact, I'd say within .3-.5 seconds or so.


I wear a size 12. The pedals are ok for me but I do notice that I sometimes will catch the throttle ever so slightly when braking hard. I'm going to try a different racing shoe than my Piloti's that's slightly narrower on the bottom to hopefully fix that issue.

 

brake duct ideas......

I saw that you put holes where fog goes but I want to keep my car stock looking and want the fogs so.. I was looking at this, what do you think of this?


http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1479376

 

The comments in that thread are right on. I've seen that done before but I wouldn't go that route if it were me. I don't want to debate this here but why do you need them in the first place? Brake ducts need to be carefully thought out from the start of you'll only move backwards from where you're at now.

 

hmm so you wouldn't do the NACA ducts....


it seems that my kind of driving triggers rotor overheating and pad fade and occasionally boiling a fresh 450F fluid lol.. (jk about boiling 450F)
I'm trying to not buy BBK and just get away with full race pads and cooling mods, since I'm not really that good of a driver to push it to justify $1500 on brakes, and I can easily swap between race pads and street pads on demand


here's what genesis coupes do in a race called KSF. It's where i got the naca duct idea from.
how do they route the ducting? idk, but it seems simple since that car has mcpherson strut in the front

]






edit
PS : i was thinking of directing a duct from the vents next to fog lights but on my 07 base, it seems like it's supposed to "push" air in towards the radiator where the front bumper is covering the bottom half of the rad so I decided not to mess with that for brakes.

 

Well what pads and fluid do you run and you are talking strictly street driving yes? I never said NACA's were a bad idea, I run them and will probably re-do my brake ducts with them someday anyways. I was just saying on the bottom side of the car doesn't make a lot of sense, ESPECIALLY on a street car with no supporting aero mods.

Yes, part of the grille opening is meant to direct air to the radiator.

 

ahh I was thinking "hmm so you don't like NACAs?"
sorry, brain fart studied too much for finals.

yes. 100% street driving but............ it's pretty harsh


How do you like the naca's on those Hyundai's front grill? They don't look like they'd need any supporting mods since they're kinda like normal holes for high pressure low velocity intake, but uses the air that runs "along the surface" like typical naca scoop on the side of an airplane or old viper hood..

I'd rather cut two slots for 5"x9" ducts instead of chopping the middle of the bumper for radiator, and using fog grill for brake cooling.... lol.. plus, if the nacas are clear polycarbonate, nobody will really notice it right? :P

 

Well just humor me and tell me your pad/fluid/line/rotor setup?

The whole idea of brake ducts is pointless while you still have mechanical means to improve the braking.

The naca's on the hyundai's is really typical and it known to work.

 

okay........... :$

First, I just went to see how OEM does.... lol with a year old DOT 4 fluid with 240F wet boiling.
faded really bad. pedal became spongey, E-brake + 2nd gear saved my ass lol..

Went again with half-used yellowstuff with same rotor, fresh same fluid (valvoline cheap fluid) fluids were fine, but pads still kinda fade-ish but held up longer.
While swapping the pads, I made sure the sliding pins are lubed thoroughly.

Now, i'm thinking of getting stoptech slotted curved vane rotors with cobalt XR2(maybe 1) pads in the front and XR4 in the rear.
link
https://www.cobaltfriction.com/Searc...s.asp?Cat=1921

ick, you can diss me via PM lol....

 

No not needing to diss at all, just wanted to know the whole story because as I said, everything comes into play and usually, no one thing is the end all answer. I think you'd be amazed at what a good pad and fluid can do for you. Sure the brake ducts will "help" regulate the brake temps but you first need a pad designed to work at much higher temps to begin with. Brake ducts only help, not save brake performance.


holy shit $360 for XR1 pads for the brembos?! XP10/12's are $250ish and would be much more street happy fyi

 

Looks like I'm buying the pads first... I had trouble finding enough number of reviews on Cobalt pads except a few VERY happy owners from corvette and STi forums..

Have you had first/secondhand experience with those?

edit :
reason for wanting to try out cobalt is, not many people make race pads in base TL pad shape. They do.

 

Fenda and I both run Carbotechs and I love them.


here you go: XP12 for $200 from Marcus. That's $160 more towards SS lines and ducts if needed.

http://www.heeltoeauto.com/carbotech...roductid=65837

 

ah,, never thought of carbotech.
I didn't really pay attention to your pads in previous posts because you have brembo.


carbotech website says "NOT recommended for street due to excess dust and noise"
Therefore I must try it out thanks for spoon feeding me the answer

Found those bad boys on ebay for $150 shipped.
---------------------------------------

what compound do you recommend in the rear for balanced braking performance?

 

depends on the tires and weight. assuming stock weight I'd say the XP8 or XP10 is right for the job.

 

Racing pedals cost money but do not reduce lap times. That is why he doesn't have them. If you are on a budget they don't really make sense when you can just use grip tape. Better areas to spend that money.

I wear a size 8 only(like racing shoes extra snug), and needed to add a floor board to elevate the floor for better foot placement. The floor board I added raises the floor probably 1.5 inches. I have noticed the same thing when wearing my piloti's. The heel is really thick on them. Some other shoes are narrower.

Brake ducts should never be necessary on a street car. Upgrade the pads, fluid, and lines. If that is not enough consider changing your driving style.

I also wanted to add that pic from above is my favorite pic also. Thanks for the videos. I am guessing that the m3 was on stock rubber? Nice heel-toe work in the 2nd video.

 

I don't know if I should be allowed to call it "street" driving........... lol....

 

lol yes HS @ the price.
I was thinking XR1 should be more like XP16/20, ??
( i have no knowledge about their compounds. I'm just guessing from it being "top tier")


for the price and based on you & fenda's reviews, i think i'm gonna do carbotech 12/8 and just DD them :P

 

You can only drive on the streets like that for so long before it'll cost you more money than it's worth.

Thread hath been derailed...might want to think about some steering upgrades next, Rex!

 

Sorry. I'm stepping out of this thread

 

LOL...I'm just bustin balls, buddy...ain't my thread and honestly, your questions and responses all made me learn a couple of things.

For looks alone, I'd hope you listen to Rex about the pad/fluid thing...I hate those veins on normal street cars.

 

last vid from MAM.

 

^ lol byebye porsche

Yes the fluid is still on its way -_- (ATE blue) and i'm talking to carbotech for the compound I need since vill's car is very very lightweight and mine's at full weight. (plus a packed lunch for the day )

 

great video Rex....imma see you at the track next year

 

Love the vid Rex

 

Cool vid, for sure.
I guess it's courtesy to kinda have your fun then back off and let others pass? I saw many people wave past and could tell you let some people by.

 

^^^

recently saw a track vid and most cars move over and point out indicating you can pass....

am thinking couple folks run through the track for many laps and then cruise for some not sure if its for lowering the coolant/oil temps for constantly pushing the limits

 

yeah it's called a "point by". I'd rather not move off line and let the faster car go around but this group wanted the opposite so that's what we did.

It's not so much the coolant temps or anything like that is more the tires/brakes are prime for a certain number of laps and then fall off or don't perform as well so that's when people will back off it a bit.

 

^^^ well for beginners like me, if I see you coming in the rear view mirror am definitely gonna poop my pants and move over....

kinda helps you to get consistent lap times as compared to being stuck behind my shitty racing line...

 

I just got my carbotechs

rear 536's came pre-bed. awesome

Quick question :
Is it necessary to have shims behind the pads to resist heat transfer from pad to caliper pistons?? or are the OEM shims just a form of noise treatment?

 

That makes sense, get your best lap times while everything is performing optimally.

 

Necessary? not really. OE shims are more for noise, you would need to get Titanium shims to reduce the heat transfer.

 

ahh,,, Nobody makes titaniums in 787 shape lol....
wonder if I can cut titanium plates with my kitchen scissors




I can't remember if you drive your race car on streets too but, here's my alignment question.. - compromise between handling and inside wear.



I understand the rear camber at around -1.5 isn't an issue because it's just trailing, no power, maybe braking a little.

But what about front?? I'm wondering how much negative camber I can run without sacrificing inside of front tires since
1. most of my drivings are on public roads (i.e. interstate)
2. front wheel brakes, accelerates, and keep it going, so the effect of camber & inside tire wear will be more apparent than rear camber. (considering most of my driving is straight cruise)

Right now I have -0.5 front with me in the car. (which is max allowed by spec, but then again,, it's just manufacturer opinion :P)


I'm just sick of reading "camber doesn't kill tires. toe kills" they can bring me a tire running -2 camber and PERFECTLY even wear and I'll believe
Inside wear is caused by camber, toe only accelerates inside wear, so.

I'm wondering if anyone knows a camber I can safely run so that when I get new tires, and drive 80% hwy, 10% city, 10% crazy mountain runs (by distance)
by the end of tire life, my inside is 0/32, the outside will be 2/32nd tread.
This way I won't feel I wasted some usable life of tires.

 

I am running -1.6 up front and it is killing the inside of my tires. I drive 1,500 miles a week, so I going to be very picky about my specs. I can't afford $300-$400 frontiers every time I turn around.

 

^So, chances are you were driving while typing this message?

 

Negatory...I was pooping. Now I'm driving doe.

 

Camber is one of the most misunderstood component of a car's suspension...this idea that always hunting for MAX neg camber will improve cornering is just crap. There's only one way to know what camber your car/driving needs. Stabilize the pressures and probe the tires for heat when hot. There's no other way to know what will balance tire wear and performance with any validity. There is no magic neg camber number that works for anyone. I run like -1.7/-1.8 but that's me, not anyone else. That's what best for my tires, on my track, etc.

There's really nothing else that has to be said about it.

 

Kinda OT but.. Are you going to go to MPH in Hastings this year?? I would like to check out your car sometime

 

Might be, was there last year with NASA in a STi and liked the track a lot. Will have to check when they are going this year.

 

Yea that track is really nice. Ive done a few track days with my bike there.