4drviper

Aftermarket rim question : hub bore. (for track-ish use and track use)

I read that rotors get super hot and those "free" plastic hub centric ring will melt & deform, so I need aluminum rings.

With that said, people reported sometimes it's annoying to have it stuck to the hub, instead of staying on the wheel and they had to chisel it out, sometimes damaging the ring.

Would it be potentially hazardous (performance wise) to put a couple dabs of anti-seize between the ring and the rim, using it as a sort of adhesive??

TIA

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

Holy cats you read a lot lol

if you want them get the aluminum ones and sure, put a small amount of anti-seize on them if you're worried about them....I bet you dollars to donuts though you'd never have the problem.

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

I actually just read up on it while troubleshooting my vibration issues... the plastic hub rings will only melt if you are doing like 500 laps in +100 degree weather... now that is an exageration but from everything I have read with threads of folks who have aftermarket wheels, plastic hub rings, and track their car they have not found an issue.. I did hear a lot of complaints about the aluminum hub ring but more about how sometimes it is difficult to remove... nothing bad performance wise

i think either way you will be good, peace of mind goes a long way so get what you think will help

ACCURATEin

Your thread is very inspiring.

Your TL looks awesome with all the new additions.

Keep vtecing!

AnthraciteAspec

iTrader: (6)

I tracked my car at Willow when it was like 105 degrees out. I did around 50 laps and my plastic hub rings were slightly difficult to remove after but they were fine.

4drviper

^ thanks everyone. My wheels came with metal hubrings for free...... so i'm just gonna use it lol they were nice & tight I had to smack them in with rubber mallet.
and MB motoring(discounttire brand manufactured by A-TECH) Weapon 17x8 +42 weighs 18.9~19.0 lbs
I'm really happy considering they were $458(508-50 rebate) shipped for 4 with metal hub rings



Carbotech. O. M. G. ( I should change it to OMC now)

xp10/xp8 and the cold bite is crazy and pedal feels like I have stainless brake lines. (being a street car, I'm never going to look at SS lines again. OEM lines are plenty good).

1. amazingly quick but progressive bite (doesn't lock up conti DWS, but stops on a penny)
1.1 also I have to mention these have crazy cold bite (more than Bluestuff hot bite) more than enough-safe for street driving.
1.2 noise isn't too bad so far with all factory shims with brake grease between each layer. People notice it but it's not something to frown at.

2. same progressive (but VERY quick so to my feet, it feels like on/off switch for now lol) release omg. Now I can tuck in the front of the car and let the rear slide in a blink of the eye

3. my car is "faster" now. (HPDE guys will understand) the new pads just unleashed what TL had in it. I'm getting my "HYPE S" plate now cuz this car is definitely a faster car (around any turns or track) than stock type s .... lol............

PS : all that was with all season UHP. can't wait for summer tires.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

Well I'm glad you took the advice. Now just imagine what my car is like lol

4drviper

...........i'm scared to imagine...........


2:35

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

didnt understand a word, but I saw the full video

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Huh?

4drviper

^ lol sorry I speak french

4drviper

can't edit anymore.. so it's basically the idiot in the passenger seat is the white guy in the back's boss.
the black guy is star athlete getting escorted by police.
they have accident and can't make it in time to the game.
so the white guy in the back (also a cop) calls his taxi friend and they deliver him.


ANYWAY.
Can I ask if anyone used a street tire on the track that doesn't get greasy???

I looked into sumitomo HTR Z3, cooper zeon RS3-S(they compared it to michelin PS2.... lol..), hankook v12evo, conti DW,,, they all been reported greasy when hot.

And since getting greasy is "safety" issue,,, I would like to be sure

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Oui oui, biensur, moi aussi.
I hadn't watched the vid, actually...was "huh"ing about Anil's response.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

athlete? soccer star !!!

I dont know french and even I understood that

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

LMAO, if that's in relation to what I wrote...not even close! But A PRUS FOR EFFORT!

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ ditto

was for 4drviper

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

So anyway....getting this thread back on track (no pun intended lol), anybody know of a baffled oil pan for the J?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Baffled for cooling? Or to get it away from the ground?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

baffled to avoid oil sloshing around due to high G turns/braking/acceleration....

Rex, I havent seen anyone on the 3G side use a baffle oil pan or gas tank....I have seen couple people on the Accord (with a J swap) and CL with the turbo running a custom baffle setup

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

link?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

let me search and get you links....I should have bookmarked those threads...

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

J35A6 in Accord: If I remember right, he has some baffle setup
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/yungone501s-excessive-infatuation-j-series-873314/

J32A2 turbo in Civic hatch. Dude made his own baffle fuel cell setup
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/hickam-series-j32a2-turbo-swapped-car-885898/

Cant find another CL thread which had a baffle setup (not sure on oil or fuel)

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

It would need to be custom like most parts. Take a oem oil pan and weld the baffle in. I have seen a how to in modified magazine.

ACCURATEin

What's next for the TL?

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

A bigger budget lol

I'll run one more event before i deploy in Aug and pick up the build when i get back.

List includes:
Motor mounts
Brake pads
Front sway
New exhaust
Redo front end and brake ducts
Moar pooowwwweeeerrrrr lol
Cage, seat, harness
Etc etc.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for serving brahhh !!!

and do try to make it for the meet....

I hate cars

Are you looking at a baffled oil pan because you're worried about cavitation or do you want it to reduce windage or both? Are there any issues with cavitation or excessive oil consumption or any current problem or just preventative measures and a couple hp? Before you mess with the pan you would probably want to decide if a turbo is in the cars future first to save additional work. I've been secretly hoping you would do some serious power mods on this lightweight car.

To someone else who asked the question of a street tire that doesn't get greasy at the track, the NT05 does a great job. After hearing how they held up for some of the heavier cars at the track, some of the charger and challenger guys and my friends Mercedes CL65 AMG, I decided to try them and they have never gotten greasy on me. The TL isn't that heavy compared to many other new cars but with its weight distribution and the front tires doing most of the work, its pretty hard on front tires.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

What i thought was fuel cut in high speed, high G corners is actually a drop in oil pressure and the ecu is cutting because of it. I have noticed oil burn at my local track and is the only place i get the cutting out so I'm positive thats the cause.

4drviper

1. I faded my XP 10.......................... I'm gonna go complain to mr. puskar jr. and ask for discount of my 12's cuz he recommended 10 SO HARD and it's fading hahahaha
ALSO XP10 does not lock up conti DWS (2/32nd) if I brake progressively. I need to tell CT that. and rear XP8 feels just ahh-mazing.
by the way, braking short and HARD really helped keep the fluid cooler. no ducts for me at least for a while.
my friend recommended I get any sort of duct because it tells the car behind me i'm braking, by the smell lol.

2. YES TL NEED FRONT SWAY BAR NOT REAR,,,,,,, or BOTH of equal roll stiffness increase. definitely not "just rear"

3. waiting so I can learn from your design......... please use NACA ducts they look badass

4. you really want to send those "sports car" owners back to the showroom to buy "faster cars" hahaha



regarding front sway bar.

I honestly don't understand the point of people beefing up the rear sway bar from 20 to 24mm, mine being 17mm it's already oversteering.


I noticed my OEM TL with A spec suspension in the front and OEM type S MT in the rear, OEM base sway bars.

my car steers neutral if I take it easy with correct (but not a lot, since i'm taking it easy) braking to put weight in the front and tuck in to help turn head (I feel a teeny bit of understeer in the front, rear is on the verge of sliding off but i can feel the front engage in lateral G, then a moment later, rear hooks up and it's like GO KARTTTTT , kidding. you know what I mean.)

but this car, fricking oversteers and flies off if I involuntarily try to make it oversteer, as I go faster, I was slowly raising the pace as I was getting used to carbotechs.
I brake later and harder, and weight goes to the front more right? so,, I guess it's inevitable but..
I wanted to say "TL oversteers at the limit, naturally"

I flew off once and had to hold steering straight and floor the gas to keep the car from falling off a cliff lol.. end result, as I was coming out of a left hand turn, I scraped the passenger side rear quarter panel from the back of the rear tire to tail light.
(damn if i had a stick shift, and didn't have to wait for the slush box tranny to get power faster,, I might not have scraped at all hahaha)





Thought I should ask people with experiences (of HPDE and real suspension knowledge not some mere speculation)

Because what it is actually is is, let's say people set up their car to extreme oversteer by only stiffening up the rear roll stiffness, which will cause relatively more side to side weight transfer in the rear than front, which will end up reaching the point of outer rear tire where the increase in weight won't help grip anymore, therefore more oversteer.

but.
a. I highly doubt most people are actually driving to the rear tire's limit to "have more oversteer" which is the claim of manufactureres and vendors supposedly make the "understeering FWD car" more neutral. (my ass)
b. people think less roll means less weight transfer
c. some idiots say "it helps keep the inside tire on the ground" yeah right..

I'm just tired of hearing those false informations.
But then again, forum being a forum I probably can't make a new thread "If you need rear sway bar to make the TL "handle", you don't know how to drive" lol


I know my car isn't set up just like yours but, I was hoping to get some advice? should I
1. upgrade front bar
2. change driving style to more pushy instead of tucky swingy(you know what I mean)
3. It didn't jerk off. It just slid off like ,, normal.. I don't think it means my steering input was rough, but I wanted to mention, is my rough steering control causing that?
4. put better gripping tires in the rear?
I'm leaning toward 2 because it doensn't cost me anything.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Villo is too nice to say it, but I am not. You really should start your own thread instead of hijacking this one so much.

I know that this is a popular thread and you are more likely to get responses here than if you start your own thread but that does not make it right.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

Alright viper I have to say Brian is right. I do want this thread to be about advancing the TL's performance and track capability, but that's not really what you've been doing. I would recommend starting your own thread, giving us some pics of what you doing and know that we'll still reply and help you out.

that said, I'll still leave my feedback here for you latest 3am post drive debrief.

1. I highly doubt your XP10's are fading. And if I were Carbotech, my first question would be, are you running stainless lines and what fluid? Because I'm pretty sure you said you're not on SS Lines and still on OEM type fluid....That's a mistake. And if I were carbotech I'd say to go do those first and get back to me. for about $120, you have that significant increase in performance and frankly, cheap ass insurance that you won't find yourself in a position like you did last night and ding the car. Do yourself a favor and make that your next upgrade.

2. Your whole rear sway bar/oversteer argument seems to be based on your apparent driving style and not on much else. No shit, if you carry way too much corner entry speed and use the same amount of turn in for the corner as you would at a slower speed, something IS going to happen and it will probably be negative. At that point, the car/corner doesn't care what rear sway bar you have. the tires only have so much slip angle and the corner is only so big, the result you experienced is completely predictable by your own words. And no kidding a TL will oversteer at the limit. 60+ percent of the weight is over the front end and then you throw in an ass-load of hard braking and turning and you DON'T expect the rear end to be as light as a feather? why do you think I focus much more on balance and downforce and not just raw HP? Because I understand what the car has, needs, and won't ever be. I think you're still figuring that out (and kinda the hard way if you ask me).

3. Of course progressive braking won't lock up the tires as easily. But that's not how you brake on a track (which your aren't btw). The car needs that hard initial bite from the brakes to stabilize, immediately reduce speed, and it also provides you with an instant assessment of the braking capability at that exact moment. From there, you can determine how much modulation/force is still needed and ensure that you'll hit your turn in point exactly where you need to and at the speed you know works.

4. You definitely seem to need a driving style change. No I wouldn't do the front sway yet. No you don't need better rear tires, if you want better tires then you need all four. Yes, I think a lot of it is your steering inputs. Start with the basics, slow in = fast out. Work on consistency, people who ride with me are surprised that every lap is the EXACT same. I tweak thing here and there, but most don't even notice. But every braking point, turn in, apex, etc is the same lap after lap after lap. Doesn't matter if the brakes are cooked, tires greasy, etc, you need to be consistent or you're just throwing it all away. You forget I think that you need to crawl before you walk. Don't jump right to the brake ducts when you still have OEM lines and fluid. Don't jump right to new brakes/tires when you haven't had a performance driving lesson and probably didn't even check the tire pressures before you left. You'd be amazed what little things like that can do for your car/driving.

I hope this helps. That's what it's intended to do. Now, can I go play my sunday golf now?!?! LOL

4drviper

I"m sorry. I was lost between "enough new threads" and "hijacking much" ... .

but i did check my pressures .. :/ 40 front 36 rear. cold.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

I'm sorry but those tire pressures are dumb. I can see a lower pressure in the rear but 40 cold up front? WHY?

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

vill, question
was going through the blog and noticed you running +45 offset of the RPF1 with brembo calipers.. I didnt think they cleared it... but now I know!.. is there anyroom between caliper and wheel?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Rex, thanks for all the useful information. Always fun to read.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

They do fit, but barely. I run a 3mm spacer just for a bit more room.

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

FYI love the blog... noticing things I didnt notice in this thread
so does the fender vents help? I am guessing they are to help vent out the heat from the brakes but wasnt sure

and you working on any other fun projects?

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

yeah man they definitely help. I find rubber pieces from tires and pebbles all over the fenders and even in the seam between the fender/a pillar. So yeah, they definitely help reduce pressure in the wheel wells.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

was bored this morning so I isolated the chase cam footage from my bud's M3 and posted it up for y'all. sorry I can't make it to the national meet, no baby yet so I'm staying close to home. hope you enjoy

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

Was doing some thinking about how to finish the front end with the new splitter. Here is the idea/thought I'm having to increase airflow to the radiator. Eager to hear thoughts on how to get the maximum air to the full width of the radiator without inducing a ton of drag. Here's an original with no paint lines if you want to post up your own idea I'm more than open to that.



Thought behind this is that I can easily secure it to the splitter frame (red arrows) and that is almost the full width of the radiator as well. Going up to the horizontal yellow line keeps the Acura on the bumper (not a huge deal but kinda nice) and will be easy to work the splitter rods around. But going up the top of the lower grills would set me up nicely for the new brake duct project I have in mind as well.



let me know what you're thinking. thanks.