TL Diet 2.0/Track Car Build - Roll Cage Pg 51
11-05-2013, 05:41 PM
#1761
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Rex...sorry I havent posted the pic up yet...lets just say the car is clean just sitting in the garage LOL....
about the SC, I know Morgan was saying the Comptech one is not "big enough" for our cars and hence he never went that route....
with the SC, you are looking at 5-6K in cost...blower/ECU-Hondata/harness/tuning/etc....
why dont you think of going all motor...build a 3.6L monster with a tad bit higher compression, bigger injectors, cammed, tuned....you will make monstrous gains without the added weight...
I know Andy with his race heads/cams/ECU was pushing 330-340 on his BASE 5AT....you will be around the 350-360 figure AND lighter with more torque and linear power....
i dont think you will get to 325-330 plus with the SC....so either a bigger SC or ALL motor is what I would suggest....both will cost around the 5-6K point....
and any more than 370whp with the kinda weight you pushing will be an overkill IMO...
about the SC, I know Morgan was saying the Comptech one is not "big enough" for our cars and hence he never went that route....
with the SC, you are looking at 5-6K in cost...blower/ECU-Hondata/harness/tuning/etc....
why dont you think of going all motor...build a 3.6L monster with a tad bit higher compression, bigger injectors, cammed, tuned....you will make monstrous gains without the added weight...
I know Andy with his race heads/cams/ECU was pushing 330-340 on his BASE 5AT....you will be around the 350-360 figure AND lighter with more torque and linear power....
i dont think you will get to 325-330 plus with the SC....so either a bigger SC or ALL motor is what I would suggest....both will cost around the 5-6K point....
and any more than 370whp with the kinda weight you pushing will be an overkill IMO...
11-05-2013, 05:59 PM
#1762
What are your power goals? It really just comes down to how much you want to spend and how reliable it is.
You could probably make 350-400whp N/A if you really wanted to. Do a 3.6 or 3.7 build. Then just open up the intake and exhaust to match.
You would have lighter internals and faster rev. Do you have lightweight crank pulley? You could go with the lightened flywheel.
The s/c adds weight high up and in front of the front axles. Then you have added heat to deal with and worse gas mileage. Are you worried at all about reliability with the s/c?
What tuning would you run with the s/c? The ct esm? You could upgrade to the 07-08 tl ecu and use the hondata.
Are you still doing the cage first this winter? I wanted to do a roll bar and stoptech trophy bbk but decided on a custom long tube header and exhaust setup this winter instead. Whole exhaust alone will cost me $3500.
I plan on making close to 300whp 270wtq on a stock 3.2 with just bolt ons and no tune for now. My car weight should be down to around 2900 or so now.
DAMN SWOOSH BEAT ME TO IT
You could probably make 350-400whp N/A if you really wanted to. Do a 3.6 or 3.7 build. Then just open up the intake and exhaust to match.
You would have lighter internals and faster rev. Do you have lightweight crank pulley? You could go with the lightened flywheel.
The s/c adds weight high up and in front of the front axles. Then you have added heat to deal with and worse gas mileage. Are you worried at all about reliability with the s/c?
What tuning would you run with the s/c? The ct esm? You could upgrade to the 07-08 tl ecu and use the hondata.
Are you still doing the cage first this winter? I wanted to do a roll bar and stoptech trophy bbk but decided on a custom long tube header and exhaust setup this winter instead. Whole exhaust alone will cost me $3500.
I plan on making close to 300whp 270wtq on a stock 3.2 with just bolt ons and no tune for now. My car weight should be down to around 2900 or so now.DAMN SWOOSH BEAT ME TO IT
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swoosh (11-05-2013)
11-05-2013, 06:32 PM
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11-05-2013, 07:44 PM
#1764
Rex...sorry I havent posted the pic up yet...lets just say the car is clean just sitting in the garage LOL....
about the SC, I know Morgan was saying the Comptech one is not "big enough" for our cars and hence he never went that route....
with the SC, you are looking at 5-6K in cost...blower/ECU-Hondata/harness/tuning/etc....
why dont you think of going all motor...build a 3.6L monster with a tad bit higher compression, bigger injectors, cammed, tuned....you will make monstrous gains without the added weight...
I know Andy with his race heads/cams/ECU was pushing 330-340 on his BASE 5AT....you will be around the 350-360 figure AND lighter with more torque and linear power....
i dont think you will get to 325-330 plus with the SC....so either a bigger SC or ALL motor is what I would suggest....both will cost around the 5-6K point....
and any more than 370whp with the kinda weight you pushing will be an overkill IMO...
about the SC, I know Morgan was saying the Comptech one is not "big enough" for our cars and hence he never went that route....
with the SC, you are looking at 5-6K in cost...blower/ECU-Hondata/harness/tuning/etc....
why dont you think of going all motor...build a 3.6L monster with a tad bit higher compression, bigger injectors, cammed, tuned....you will make monstrous gains without the added weight...
I know Andy with his race heads/cams/ECU was pushing 330-340 on his BASE 5AT....you will be around the 350-360 figure AND lighter with more torque and linear power....
i dont think you will get to 325-330 plus with the SC....so either a bigger SC or ALL motor is what I would suggest....both will cost around the 5-6K point....
and any more than 370whp with the kinda weight you pushing will be an overkill IMO...
Another thing to remember is that I have to think differently about engine builds and reliability. I'm not just worried about this one engine, I could build that 3.7L monster and throw a simple bearing day one and be right back to square one. I would much rather not touch the internals of the engine for the simple advantage of being able to pick up a $500 used engine and within a day be back in business. Yes, I have those re-worked heads, but those parts would most likely survive a malfunction.
What are your power goals? It really just comes down to how much you want to spend and how reliable it is.
You could probably make 350-400whp N/A if you really wanted to. Do a 3.6 or 3.7 build. Then just open up the intake and exhaust to match.
You would have lighter internals and faster rev. Do you have lightweight crank pulley? You could go with the lightened flywheel.
The s/c adds weight high up and in front of the front axles. Then you have added heat to deal with and worse gas mileage. Are you worried at all about reliability with the s/c?
What tuning would you run with the s/c? The ct esm? You could upgrade to the 07-08 tl ecu and use the hondata.
Are you still doing the cage first this winter? I wanted to do a roll bar and stoptech trophy bbk but decided on a custom long tube header and exhaust setup this winter instead. Whole exhaust alone will cost me $3500. I plan on making close to 300whp 270wtq on a stock 3.2 with just bolt ons and no tune for now. My car weight should be down to around 2900 or so now.
DAMN SWOOSH BEAT ME TO IT
You could probably make 350-400whp N/A if you really wanted to. Do a 3.6 or 3.7 build. Then just open up the intake and exhaust to match.
You would have lighter internals and faster rev. Do you have lightweight crank pulley? You could go with the lightened flywheel.
The s/c adds weight high up and in front of the front axles. Then you have added heat to deal with and worse gas mileage. Are you worried at all about reliability with the s/c?
What tuning would you run with the s/c? The ct esm? You could upgrade to the 07-08 tl ecu and use the hondata.
Are you still doing the cage first this winter? I wanted to do a roll bar and stoptech trophy bbk but decided on a custom long tube header and exhaust setup this winter instead. Whole exhaust alone will cost me $3500.
I plan on making close to 300whp 270wtq on a stock 3.2 with just bolt ons and no tune for now. My car weight should be down to around 2900 or so now.DAMN SWOOSH BEAT ME TO IT
I have a crank pulley but should get that AASCO flywheel and better clutch too someday.
Yeah the SC is high on the chassis and pretty far forward but I had someone weigh theirs and I guess it was "only" 32lbs for the assembly. could be worse if you ask me. I can make up the weight with more lexan and dash, both of which are higher than the SC would be. With the few hundred miles I put on a year, I'm not really worried about any reliability issues with the blower.
I would be fine with the ACM and crushed FPR for a start. Later on I'd add the Hondata and maybe some Meth/boost. I think a lot of people have given the ACM a bad name and IIRC, Comptech made some updates to them.
Yeah cage will be done after the new year with help from Uncle Sam lol
P.S. - I have always been an NA builder but lets just say ILC's build has made me think lately......
11-05-2013, 09:23 PM
#1765
I think a supercharger is going to be the route for power for the car sometime in the future. just can't find a better way to get to the power level I'll need to make my p/w ratio. Plus I really only need a partial kit at best. I don't have the battery, rad fans, egr, coolant overflow tank, etc to deal with so it'd be really easy to slap on. Plus I have some ideas in my head to really ramp up the smaller blower's performance that I've never seen anyone else do. Now to just work it into the budget.
should work really well with the worked heads I got from swoosh
should work really well with the worked heads I got from swoosh
Seems like it would be perfect for you though.
What are your power goals? It really just comes down to how much you want to spend and how reliable it is.
You could probably make 350-400whp N/A if you really wanted to. Do a 3.6 or 3.7 build. Then just open up the intake and exhaust to match.
You would have lighter internals and faster rev. Do you have lightweight crank pulley? You could go with the lightened flywheel.
The s/c adds weight high up and in front of the front axles. Then you have added heat to deal with and worse gas mileage. Are you worried at all about reliability with the s/c?
What tuning would you run with the s/c? The ct esm? You could upgrade to the 07-08 tl ecu and use the hondata.
Are you still doing the cage first this winter? I wanted to do a roll bar and stoptech trophy bbk but decided on a custom long tube header and exhaust setup this winter instead. Whole exhaust alone will cost me $3500. I plan on making close to 300whp 270wtq on a stock 3.2 with just bolt ons and no tune for now. My car weight should be down to around 2900 or so now.
DAMN SWOOSH BEAT ME TO IT
You could probably make 350-400whp N/A if you really wanted to. Do a 3.6 or 3.7 build. Then just open up the intake and exhaust to match.
You would have lighter internals and faster rev. Do you have lightweight crank pulley? You could go with the lightened flywheel.
The s/c adds weight high up and in front of the front axles. Then you have added heat to deal with and worse gas mileage. Are you worried at all about reliability with the s/c?
What tuning would you run with the s/c? The ct esm? You could upgrade to the 07-08 tl ecu and use the hondata.
Are you still doing the cage first this winter? I wanted to do a roll bar and stoptech trophy bbk but decided on a custom long tube header and exhaust setup this winter instead. Whole exhaust alone will cost me $3500.
I plan on making close to 300whp 270wtq on a stock 3.2 with just bolt ons and no tune for now. My car weight should be down to around 2900 or so now.DAMN SWOOSH BEAT ME TO IT
Last edited by JJH; 11-05-2013 at 09:29 PM.
11-05-2013, 09:28 PM
#1766
There are other option if weight is your concern. Haven't followed the entire thread, but you've gotten rid of your A/C pump and created much more space in the engine bay, haven't you? You could always abandon a root drive supercharger and go with a centrifugal supercharger, mount it where the A/C pump used to be, and have the advantage of keeping the weight down low and closer to the axle. I don't take credit for the idea. Talk to gerzand.
Seems like it would be perfect for you though.
Seems like it would be perfect for you though.
Yeah my AC system is completely removed and I had a friend do that sort of build on a different chassis and it turned out to be quite the difficult project. Not sure if I care to go down that road...
11-06-2013, 05:29 AM
#1769
Another thing to remember is that I have to think differently about engine builds and reliability. I'm not just worried about this one engine, I could build that 3.7L monster and throw a simple bearing day one and be right back to square one. I would much rather not touch the internals of the engine for the simple advantage of being able to pick up a $500 used engine and within a day be back in business. Yes, I have those re-worked heads, but those parts would most likely survive a malfunction.
My other mods are:
4" custom intake with velocity stack
P2R tb spacer
P2R thermal gaskets
bored tb
ported/polished IM
ported/polished runners
P2R plenums
MDX horns
IMRC and air assist deletes.
3rd gen tl-s exhaust valves for overrev protection
underdrive crank pulley
There are atleast 2 people pushing 280-295 whp with the same setup except they have modified ct headers instead of a full custom long tube header set. I am hoping those headers and exhaust can gain me that extra 5-15 whp.
I could also switch to the 09 tl im and the blox 76mm tb later on. Since the j32a2 uses a cable throttle instead of dbw I can use b series tb's on my car.
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JJH (11-06-2013)
11-07-2013, 05:22 PM
#1770
Pretty sure I'm going to be doing a complete dash makeover this winter so I won't be needing my custom gauge mount anymore. Thought before I make a BM thread I'd see if any of the followers are interested in it. PM me if you are.
Fits in OEM location using OEM clips and fits standard 2 1/16" gauges. Aligns them perfectly with the driver when installed.
Fits in OEM location using OEM clips and fits standard 2 1/16" gauges. Aligns them perfectly with the driver when installed.
11-07-2013, 09:15 PM
#1771
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you have navi model? 
if I put my car back together, imma buy your harness and everything
i get first dibs
if I put my car back together, imma buy your harness and everything
i get first dibs
11-07-2013, 09:20 PM
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true that brother....how about I make it out to your first track day next year?
11-09-2013, 07:18 PM
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11-10-2013, 11:07 AM
#1777
Nice. I was actually thinking about this yesterday and whether you would remove the steering hanger and the door bars with the cage.
The door bars might be harder to do without damaging the door skin.
The door bars might be harder to do without damaging the door skin.
11-10-2013, 11:23 AM
#1778
The OEM door bars are fucking solid ass steel man. I tried to drill into them to mount my door handles a while ago and it was an utter fail. So I doubt there's a way to get those out without completely destroying the door skins. So they'll stay and the cage door bars will offset them probably.
11-10-2013, 08:28 PM
#1780
Pro
Wow was just skimming thru your weight loss thread, you've been busy with your TL. Looks
like your interior fully stripped now. Any plans on doing a subframe support for inside the
car?
like your interior fully stripped now. Any plans on doing a subframe support for inside the
car?
11-11-2013, 08:13 AM
#1781
Interior is gonna be sick when you're done. Are you making the dash out of sheets of aluminum, then cover it with suede or alcantara?
I see you still have that sound deadening under the dash. I removed that from my car a few months ago. I think it was only 1 lb and windshield being in the way made it harder to remove.
I will check my door bars and see if they are solid also.
For your cage if you don't mind disclosing, what type/grade of steel are you gonna use and what OD tubing size?
I see you still have that sound deadening under the dash. I removed that from my car a few months ago. I think it was only 1 lb and windshield being in the way made it harder to remove.
I will check my door bars and see if they are solid also.
For your cage if you don't mind disclosing, what type/grade of steel are you gonna use and what OD tubing size?
11-11-2013, 08:22 AM
#1783
Not sure what he means, unless he is talking about solidly mounting the subframe instead of using rubber insulators/bushings. That would be outside the car though.
11-11-2013, 10:41 AM
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holy hell....i kinda like how it looks without the dash LOL
11-12-2013, 10:49 AM
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that looks EFFIN AWESOME !!!
when I come see you, I want to drive your car....
when I come see you, I want to drive your car....
11-12-2013, 03:49 PM
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11-12-2013, 05:07 PM
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not sure buddy....I am very confused with the car so am gonna leave it as it...
am at a point where I can turn around and bring her back to stock, but if I do anything else, it will be an entirely track car....maybe after driving your car, it will help me make my mind
but yeah I might jump on the track with ya if thats allowed or ok....all I need is some summer rims and tires
am at a point where I can turn around and bring her back to stock, but if I do anything else, it will be an entirely track car....maybe after driving your car, it will help me make my mind
but yeah I might jump on the track with ya if thats allowed or ok....all I need is some summer rims and tires
11-12-2013, 05:21 PM
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what if I want to burn through my current set of brakes
11-12-2013, 05:38 PM
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mah man
11-12-2013, 09:21 PM
#1798
Interior is gonna be sick when you're done. Are you making the dash out of sheets of aluminum, then cover it with suede or alcantara?
I see you still have that sound deadening under the dash. I removed that from my car a few months ago. I think it was only 1 lb and windshield being in the way made it harder to remove.
I will check my door bars and see if they are solid also.
For your cage if you don't mind disclosing, what type/grade of steel are you gonna use and what OD tubing size?
I see you still have that sound deadening under the dash. I removed that from my car a few months ago. I think it was only 1 lb and windshield being in the way made it harder to remove.
I will check my door bars and see if they are solid also.
For your cage if you don't mind disclosing, what type/grade of steel are you gonna use and what OD tubing size?
Yeah there will be a sheet aluminum dash done someday after the cage and if I'm lucky, covered with something suedey and sexy lol
I'll be having my windshields removed soon so maybe I'll look into removing the sound deadening then. Lots of more important projects on the list right now though.
I'm still going through the NASA rule book on the cage specs. With my lighter than average chassis weight, I could legally use a smaller pipe OD but I'm still looking into it.
11-15-2013, 05:33 PM
#1799
for my weight category these are the two options for roll cage materials
1.500” x 0.120” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM
1.750” x 0.095” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM
1.500” x 0.120” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM
1.750” x 0.095” Seamless Alloy (4130), Seamless mild steel (CDS Mechanical) or DOM
