TL Diet 2.0/Track Car Build - Roll Cage Pg 51
#1841
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,732
From: Kansas City, MO
^^^ I would check with Robert (the guy who I introduced you to in the email)....his thread on here is insane....you can probably ask him about the mid-mount vs rear mount and he will give you a plethora of reasons to go one way or the other...
#1842
I don't know why more people haven't already considered this, being IMO the biggest expensive/cost of the J&R type kits is the fab'ing and R&D of the turbo manifolds themselves. Everything else in their kit is pretty standard cost wise. But remote mount a turbo and you easily take all of that out of the equation.
#1843
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,732
From: Kansas City, MO
yeah, I think fabbing up everything and RnD was the main thing...also tuning back then was an issue....
I dont think the JNR turbo kit was a bad deal...for 8000 you get everything ready to install with the ECU....
but anyway, I think you should have more room right by the engine to mount it there, but since you see high revs most of the time, I think you should be fine with a mid/rear mount since you will always be in the boost range (am assuming here, so please correct me if am wrong)
I dont think the JNR turbo kit was a bad deal...for 8000 you get everything ready to install with the ECU....
but anyway, I think you should have more room right by the engine to mount it there, but since you see high revs most of the time, I think you should be fine with a mid/rear mount since you will always be in the boost range (am assuming here, so please correct me if am wrong)
#1844
yeah it should be fine. Big thing for me is that a remote mount would be MUCH more budget friendly I think, which is why I'm confused more people don't consider it.
#1845
takin care of Business in
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 30,994
Likes: 4,732
From: Kansas City, MO
not sure what HP you are aiming at...
I know at 400-ish HP all you will get is smoke from the front tires....am eager to see how the axles/tires will hold up and how the power handling would go....
man am very excited to see this come to fruition?
I know at 400-ish HP all you will get is smoke from the front tires....am eager to see how the axles/tires will hold up and how the power handling would go....
man am very excited to see this come to fruition?
#1846
With P2R doing much of the R and D on the J&R kits, I would be surprised if the mid or rear mount was not pretty well researched. Lose of heat energy, debris in the turbo and boost lag from the extra piping may have made it a less attractive option. Why not use the turbo kit available that is proven to make big power instead of building your own at an unknown cost?
#1847
With P2R doing much of the R and D on the J&R kits, I would be surprised if the mid or rear mount was not pretty well researched. Lose of heat energy, debris in the turbo and boost lag from the extra piping may have made it a less attractive option. Why not use the turbo kit available that is proven to make big power instead of building your own at an unknown cost?
#1849
In a word, yes. For the class I want to compete in I just can't make enough power to be competitive. Another consideration is if I build a full out NA motor and have an unforeseen problem and lose the engine, I'm pretty much done for the year, budget/time wise. If I blow and engine on an F/I build, I source a local junked one for less than a grand and in a weekend I'm back at the track.
Even a SC build is questionable but probably still doable. I could run in a slower class with a more attainable hp to weight ratio but then I'm aero limited and I'd rather run what I want aero wise.
Even a SC build is questionable but probably still doable. I could run in a slower class with a more attainable hp to weight ratio but then I'm aero limited and I'd rather run what I want aero wise.
#1850
The following 6 users liked this post by vill0169:
amasianasian (11-09-2014),
MEKO (03-17-2014),
o4Komodo (03-17-2014),
rockstar143 (12-23-2014),
rossv1 (10-06-2014),
and 1 others liked this post.
#1851
Love the discussion! I've mixed my 08 TL-S for street and track. I loved the looks as I kept up with the GT-3's and Bimmers!
Anybody know a good place to find a 5 point racing harness where I don't need to replace the seats??
Anybody know a good place to find a 5 point racing harness where I don't need to replace the seats??
#1852
A 5pt harness without a seat change is going to be pretty impossible if you want it to be functional. I'd recommend the Schroth Rallye4 harness. It can be tucked away while not in use but doesn't need to be uninstalled to do so, nice for a street car with occasional track use.
#1854
In a word, yes. For the class I want to compete in I just can't make enough power to be competitive. Another consideration is if I build a full out NA motor and have an unforeseen problem and lose the engine, I'm pretty much done for the year, budget/time wise. If I blow and engine on an F/I build, I source a local junked one for less than a grand and in a weekend I'm back at the track.
Even a SC build is questionable but probably still doable. I could run in a slower class with a more attainable hp to weight ratio but then I'm aero limited and I'd rather run what I want aero wise.
Even a SC build is questionable but probably still doable. I could run in a slower class with a more attainable hp to weight ratio but then I'm aero limited and I'd rather run what I want aero wise.
You should never run a racing harness on anything but a racing bucket seat.
#1858
#1861
I can probably guess that a lot of AZ'ers thought I had given up on the track car build, but let me assure everyone I haven't. Just don't have the time like I used to. But while I've been home recently I had time to finish up the dash wiring and even got the pseudo dash and cluster mounted with some simple brackets. Next I plan to fab up a switch/gauge panel in front of the shifter to the right of the OEM cluster. Hoping to have that done over my winter break after xmas. pics aren't super great but it'll give you an idea how much the dash/wiring has changed.
The following users liked this post:
EL BAN (10-01-2014)
#1863
I do plan to keep the OEM cluster just for simplicity right now. It's tough to give a weight on the dash being I had previous modified it before actually removing it and weighing it but I'm pretty sure the dashboard itself is a little over 20lbs and the steel bar supporting it is about 30lbs
#1865
Glad to see you posting again. I am taking my car to king motorsports on Tuesday for my cage build, long tube header/exhaust, custom tucktech engine harness, AEM EMS2, tune, transmission rebuild, and more.
I might beat you with finishing the cage.
I might beat you with finishing the cage.
#1866
Also need to come up with a new panel to hold gauges and switches. If anyone has any ideas let me know.
#1870
I hear you man, it's getting tough to even have work time in the garage these days. What's sorta sad is that 3G TL's are getting so cheap it makes no sense to get rid of them. Might as well just hang onto it and enjoy when I can. I am gonna save some cash and pick up an S2K though I think. Need/want something nice for the summer to take around town.
#1871
That is how I felt about my cl. Once it hit kbb of 6-7k. I asked a few dealers what they'd give me for trade in for shits and giggles and both said 2-3k and that was years ago.
I wish I could pick up a fun rwd car like a miata or s2k, but the problem is I already have the acura as my fun car and have no more space to park vehicles.
I just picked up a new daily driver in august, a 2014 ford focus st. I took it to an autocross less than 2 weeks after buying it. It is definitely lots of fun to drive, but now I have 2 front drivers. I am going to the free Octane Academy Driving experience they offer when you buy a new ford st this weekend at miller motorsport track in utah. It should be a blast.
I am actually working on my gauges and was thinking of doing a switch panel. I will post some pics of what I have later today.
I took my car to king motorsports yesterday. It looks like a full cage from them would run 3-4k. That is more than I want to spend plus I still drive on the street. I am going to go with a roll bar instead with maybe a few extra bars/mounting points for around 1500. Exhaust will be roughly 1500 also, and tranny rebuild around 1500 also. Add up the other things and I'll probably spend 6-7k. I think I will pass on installing the stand alone for now. Swapping ecu ' s to pass emissions does not sound fun. I will be doing a before and after dyno for the long tube headers and 3" single exhaust.
I wish I could pick up a fun rwd car like a miata or s2k, but the problem is I already have the acura as my fun car and have no more space to park vehicles.
I just picked up a new daily driver in august, a 2014 ford focus st. I took it to an autocross less than 2 weeks after buying it. It is definitely lots of fun to drive, but now I have 2 front drivers. I am going to the free Octane Academy Driving experience they offer when you buy a new ford st this weekend at miller motorsport track in utah. It should be a blast.
I am actually working on my gauges and was thinking of doing a switch panel. I will post some pics of what I have later today.
I took my car to king motorsports yesterday. It looks like a full cage from them would run 3-4k. That is more than I want to spend plus I still drive on the street. I am going to go with a roll bar instead with maybe a few extra bars/mounting points for around 1500. Exhaust will be roughly 1500 also, and tranny rebuild around 1500 also. Add up the other things and I'll probably spend 6-7k. I think I will pass on installing the stand alone for now. Swapping ecu ' s to pass emissions does not sound fun. I will be doing a before and after dyno for the long tube headers and 3" single exhaust.
Last edited by brian6speed; 10-08-2014 at 08:48 AM.
#1872
Any updates for my favorite Azine thread?
Vill0169 and Swoosh check out my build thread in my sig if you think there are no diet threads going on. Could use your expertise and Swoosh ' s enthusiasm.
I have pics in my thread of my steering wheel gauge pod and a cf panel where radio used to be for kill switch, and other switches and gauges eventually. Maybe it will give you some ideas.
Vill0169 and Swoosh check out my build thread in my sig if you think there are no diet threads going on. Could use your expertise and Swoosh ' s enthusiasm.
I have pics in my thread of my steering wheel gauge pod and a cf panel where radio used to be for kill switch, and other switches and gauges eventually. Maybe it will give you some ideas.
Last edited by brian6speed; 12-22-2014 at 12:07 PM.
#1874
#1875
Hey guys,
Not much new on the TL right now. Just got back from a few months deployed so hopefully I'll find some time in the garage here soon. Interior wiring is mostly wrapped up and ready to go. I'm going to have no choice but to drain the old fuel and oil and start a full service and will follow that up with a wellness check on the engine with at least a compression check.
After all that, I want to look into swapping to TSX rear spindles. They're aluminum vs the TL's steel and looks (at least) to be a direct swap. Of course there are lots of ideas floating around in my head but really, I just want to get the car back to a trackable status and enjoy it next summer before tackling future projects.
Not much new on the TL right now. Just got back from a few months deployed so hopefully I'll find some time in the garage here soon. Interior wiring is mostly wrapped up and ready to go. I'm going to have no choice but to drain the old fuel and oil and start a full service and will follow that up with a wellness check on the engine with at least a compression check.
After all that, I want to look into swapping to TSX rear spindles. They're aluminum vs the TL's steel and looks (at least) to be a direct swap. Of course there are lots of ideas floating around in my head but really, I just want to get the car back to a trackable status and enjoy it next summer before tackling future projects.
#1880
The 1st gen TSX looks to be really close to the TL. Here are some pics. Biggest difference is the hub/bearing section but that's fine and I'm pretty sure they use the same rear caliper setup.
TL:
TSX:
I'd weigh the difference out first and see if it's worth it but it'd be unsprung weight so I'm itching to see how much lighter they are.
TL:
TSX:
I'd weigh the difference out first and see if it's worth it but it'd be unsprung weight so I'm itching to see how much lighter they are.