My setup is full aluminum for everything.

 

GREAT NEWS AZ FANS - I was able to get a good lap of my last track day edited and uploaded for you all to enjoy! Please visit elegantaggressor.blogspot.com and see updates and hopefully more vids!


Tried my hand at some editing this time, let me know if you like it.

 

NICE !!! MAM looks like a nice fast track....looking forward to hitting it with you next year

 

Lets do it man. be ready by April and we'll hit it up soon as they open.

 

Good vid Villo! Do you have a longer/unedited version?

 

hellzz yeahzzz

expect me up there to need help with couple mods and then hit the track

 

I'll see what I can do.

Depends on the mods I think you should track it without so you learn to appreciate them!!!!! lol

 

these are the must have cooling mods

 

such as??? (PM's are acceptable lol)

 

Nice video man.

 

will hit you up with the PM...gimme a day

 

Ask and you shall receive (this time lol)...


I had this sitting on my desktop from the BIR event I did in August. This session was the first time out on the hoosiers so I was pretty easy on it. I cut out a couple quiet laps for more enjoyable ones.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3aI7...ature=youtu.be

 

Thanks Villo! Lookin' good out there! And that track looks like a lot of fun!

Btw, I'm definitely down for an April track event too...my next event is in 3 weeks...I'll update my track thread too.

 

Cool so like road trip track day with Anil and I? I looked and its about 8hrs from Dallas to Topeka which isn't that bad really. that's what I was driving to Road Atlanta last year. That would be awesome to have at least 3 TL's there.

 

You turn VSA off?? I used to run autocross with it off but there is SO MUCH torque steer. When I turned it on I shaved off almost 2 seconds from my time

 

IMO that's totally an autox thing with the torque steer. On a real track at real speeds I've never been concerned with torque steer and leaving the VSA on while road racing is really foolish, it'll burn up the rear brakes so quickly you wouldn't believe it.

 

I do auto-x and I have no torque steer issues. It does help to have the manual with the limited slip tho. LSD is worth it's weight in gold.

 

That's what i've always said

 

Found some new pics of the THR TL

 

What Villo said...I also have had no torque steer issues at all on a road course. AutoX and road courses are totally different beasts with completely different driving techniques IMO (I've done both).

And the LSD is definitely one thing about the manual I envy...I actually don't mind having an automatic. And fortunately (unfortunately) I don't have enough power to completely light up the inside tire yet...(the R-S3's probably help out with keeping traction).

And Villo! Nice find on the new THR TL!! I dunno about those hood lights...but it's awesome to know they're still using the 3G on the track! Thanks bro!

 

And I know this is ain't no TL, but the THR ILX is lookin' pretty good...

I spy a 6lb. Braille battery! RPF-1's, H&R suspension, Redline fluids, AEM intake...sounds familiar...lol

http://acuraconnected.com/2012/10/30...ill/#more-8188

 

I saw that on autoblog too a while back...I totally think they've been spying on me with the splitter, wing, cutoff switch etc!!! Heck they even have the new Schroth harness I'm running next year!!!!

The ILX's endurance lighting is certainly better than the TL's was with the LED bars...lol

 

Seriously! They be stealin yo ish! That's it, I say we show 'em what's up at Thunderhill! And I agree, the ILX's lighting is def better...

 

haha there's an idea! I truly jelly of the ILX's interior....that cage is beautiful.

 

I noticed that too...ahhh to have sponsors and a whole budget just for that stuff...

Villo, I'm gonna be getting a custom exhaust done soon (by Texas Track Works in Ft. Worth, I hear they're pretty good)...any suggestions on configurations? True dual? Single 3" split to 2 exits?

 

I'd probably look at a single 3" but I'm not sure I'd split at the back. Looks good, but adds weight

 

I thought the same thing about the weight...unfortunately this is also my DD...I kinda need a balance of performance and sound, but civility too...hmmm...

 

yeah that totally makes sense, I really liked my 2.5" catback but it did weigh 50+ pounds. Of course that was with two larger Magnaflows and 2.5" piping after the split as well.

I'm sure if you work with that shop you can come up with something that's at home both DD'ing and on track.

 

I want one of those Acura horn buttons. The Honda window net is nice also.

That cage is nice but I still want to drive without a helmet so a race roll bar for me. Just have to decide between premade autopower one or custom.

For the exhaust I wanted to do a single for weight, but my car is driven on street also. I like the look of two mufflers/tips. The rear would look odd with an empty cutout unless you have a bodyshop rework the bumper.

 

Started ripping out the sound deadening today with dry ice. didn't go as easily as I had thought as I think Acura used thicker tar crap on the newer TL's to further lessen road noise compared to older Honda's/Acura's. That's fine for road goer's but it was an absolute bitch to get out for me. I spent the whole morning and all of the dry ice I had on just the front floor wells and the area that is under the driver/passenger seats. Not too much to show as of now cuz I'll have to do a lot of sanding and grinding to get the remnants off and I'll probably spray paint the floor to make it look a bit nicer. Only good news to report is that with about half of the sound deadening up I took about 11 or so pounds off the car. So add onto that the tar under the rear seat and all the trunk area (plus some on the sides of the exhaust tunnel I was too lazy to go after today) I should have no problem taking about 20lbs total off the car with this project.

Call me crazy but I really think low 2400's or even high 2300's chassis weight is possible. Realistically if I could have a race weight (chassis + driver, fuel, aero, etc) of 2700lbs or so that would be just awesome to me. Tack on 300whp (power goals eventually) and it could be a force to be reckoned with for sure.

More details and pics to come soon.

 

If you didnt finish removing all your sound deadener yet,I just removed my oem deadener last week and all I used was a 3" angle blade tapping/putty knife and a hammer and It came out pretty quick once I got a feel for it.
I probally had less than 2hrs into it and it could use a little clean up with the paint scrapes but it's not bad at all and I did not have to mess with dry ice.
The only pieces that gave me a hard time was the strips on either side of the console.
So I left some of those pieces.

 

2 hours? I spent probably 10-20 hours removing every last spec of that tar. I am anal tho and tried to not scratch anything and used tar remover to get the residue off. You can grind it off but not as clean and requires a repaint.

 

Mine came up pretty quick once i got the knack for being able to peel good size pieces up.
The fronts I peeled into 2 seprate layers,the hard plastic then the deadener. By the time I did both fronts the rest back was a brezze.

 

I think it really depends on how the tar stuff has "weathered" over the years....I had some on mine that was cracking on the top layer but still stuck really good to the floor in the exact same stuff.

Just varies by the age/type/location/etc of the car.

 

what is the total weight that we are looking at for all the sound deadening?

 

About 20lbs total for everything.

 

damn...thats awesome....I really was postponing this mod, but i think one of these days I will pretty much have to

 

Update on the sound deadening delete thus far. This is certainly a lot of work and I really hope it turns out well in the end. The dry ice worked ok at getting the sound deadening up but left a fair amount of residue on the floor that looks nasty and still adds weight. I found that using a grinder with a steel brush type head on it worked well to get the residue up but it does make a helluva mesh in the process. So that took up most of the remaining tar type stuff but still left the surface kinda dirty and whatnot but some simple bug/tar remover takes it right off and make the surface able to be painted eventually. Here are some pics. So A is the post dry ice result. B is the post grinding/sanding result. and C is the final result after the tar remover and pre paint.

Where I started:




Current point:

 

holy shit....it looks very strenuous....

 

Yep it is the biggest pain in the butt in the weight removal process, especially when you just use a plastic scraper and tar remover. No dry ice or wire brushes damaging my paint.

Just let the tar remover soak for a bit and it will come up easier. It also matters what brand tar remover you use. I tried 4-5 different kinds and they are all different in how well they work.

You can also use felt brush attachments for a dremel etc to remove tar/sealant without damaging paint.

Would be nice to get a cage/bar welded in and whole interior repainted, but that is a lot of work, time, and money.