TL Diet 2.0/Track Car Build - Roll Cage Pg 51
09-26-2012, 09:40 AM
#1043
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^^^ 
Dry ice FTW !!! makes it easier....
but yeah i would like to remove all my wiring as well....someday
Dry ice FTW !!! makes it easier....
but yeah i would like to remove all my wiring as well....someday
09-26-2012, 12:09 PM
#1044
I used a plastic type chisel/trim removal tool and a rubber mallet. Hammer the trim removal tool behind tar and rip it up. I did not use any dry ice. Way I did it takes longer but I did not damage the paint at all. Then I used tar remover to get all the residue off.
It was probably most tedious and annoying part of weight removal for me. Some pieces of tar are a lot harder to remove than other pieces
It was probably most tedious and annoying part of weight removal for me. Some pieces of tar are a lot harder to remove than other pieces
Last edited by brian6speed; 09-26-2012 at 12:23 PM.
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09-26-2012, 01:32 PM
#1047
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Brian...did you notice any changes in sounds/rigidity after the tar removal?
09-26-2012, 03:08 PM
#1048
Some pieces come up easier/in a sheet and others do not. The stuff on the floor and exhaust tunnel came up easy, but the stuff in the trunk and back seats was harder/came off in chunks like this.
For the harder stuff to remove I would probably still recommend dry ice. My way takes too long.
Hope you don't mind me posting the pics vill0169. If you do just let me know.
Last edited by brian6speed; 09-26-2012 at 03:12 PM.
09-26-2012, 03:11 PM
#1049
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^^^ gotta love the loud-"er" exhaust....the road noise/gravel in the wheel well is what bothers me at times...
09-26-2012, 03:16 PM
#1050
I was referring more to the stuff the wheels kick back out of the wheel wells that hits the floor of the car, suspension parts, exhaust etc.
The black rubber/yellow foam stuff on firewall might affect the wheel well noise tho. Also if you remove fenderwell trim it will sound more tinny.
Last edited by brian6speed; 09-26-2012 at 03:18 PM.
09-26-2012, 08:29 PM
#1051
Kinda finished up the wires aft of the dash today. everything still and runs, I just need to splice power back to the tail lights and we're good to go. Still have to reloom the needed wires and clean it all back up but the bulk of the work is done for now. Total weight thus far is 9 POUNDS!!
09-26-2012, 08:49 PM
#1052
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You should take your car in for servicing at the dealership! LOLThem them you want a full detail too.
Glad to see things are still progressing. Looks like you are still going strong, and I cant wait till next track season to see what you come up with.
09-27-2012, 11:39 AM
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It would be awesome to mess with them....
go in there and say "hey, i seem to have an electrical problem, can you diagnose it for me"
09-27-2012, 03:42 PM
#1055
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ohhh i hate you right now....dont make me remove my radio 
09-27-2012, 04:09 PM
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btw, you just gave me a killer idea
09-27-2012, 05:01 PM
#1058
Whats up with RDX owners?
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If the metal is still sharp, you can get some fuel tubing and cut a slit down the middle. Then slide it over the metal. Safety!
09-28-2012, 09:54 AM
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well since mine is a street car and my daily driver....i was thinking of removing that metal plate off the door and putting the door panel back on....
from the pix i dont see how it will fit back on but well, worth a try
from the pix i dont see how it will fit back on but well, worth a try
09-28-2012, 10:17 AM
#1063
You need that metal for the window support tho. I am assuming vill0169 is not gonna have functioning windows anymore. You could hole-saw it like the pic I posted but that is a lot of work for very little loss. It would require glass and component removal, door removed from car, and repaint on inside.
Last edited by brian6speed; 09-28-2012 at 10:20 AM.
09-28-2012, 10:22 AM
#1064
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brian, thats what am thinking....but i guess once I pull the door panel out, i will be able to see more clearly....
but i totally agree that the metal plate will be needed for mirror support + panel holding purposes
but i totally agree that the metal plate will be needed for mirror support + panel holding purposes
09-28-2012, 01:03 PM
#1065
The rails that the window slides up and down on are bolted to that metal also. Need to keep that structure if you keep windows.
09-28-2012, 02:04 PM
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10-04-2012, 07:14 PM
#1068
one day you're just going to chop off along the B pillar and just drive with 2 wheels right?
"Front wheel drive" - green hornet :P
"Front wheel drive" - green hornet :P
10-15-2012, 09:35 AM
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waiting....
10-19-2012, 05:07 PM
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fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu
10-22-2012, 12:12 PM
#1080
Need exhaust ideas help
Been doing some winter project thinking and kinda want some insight from you guys on some ideas. Biggest thing I'm contemplating right now is how to change my exhaust system around for next season. Currently I have the V2 RV6 J pipe followed by 2.5" piping to a full sized magnaflow muffler, then it's a bit more 2.5" piping to the dump behind the front seats. What I'm thinking I'll do is get the V3 J pipe from Rich, follow that by a 2.5" to 3" venturi pipe, and then have some sort of 3" exhaust from there back. But the " 3" exhaust from there back" part is what I'm looking for help on. I don't think my current setup will work with the new J pipe because it would move my full sized magnaflow back into the more narrow part of the tunnel where it might not fit well. So here are my current ideas listed, let me know which ones you guys think would work the best for power and noise/sound.
1. Basically find the largest diameter and longest 3" resonator possible and dump it close to where it dumps now. This option is pretty simple, pretty cheap, but would probably have the worst sound and highest noise but lightest weight.
2. Try my best to fit a 3" more full sized muffler in the tunnel (maybe at a slight angle) and deal with the decreased ground clearance and aero smoothness under car. Again it would be dumped behind the seats and would probably weigh close to the same and would tame the noise a bit more.
3. Run 3" pipe back to the gap in front of the gas tank, turn 90 degrees to the passenger side, and put a fuller sized muffler there with a side exit somehow near the back of the side skirt. This option gives the best bet for a decent sound/noise level but would be heavier, more expensive, harder to fab up, etc etc.
Because I'm probably going to go for a strong NA build in the future, I want something that is big enough to support the cams I'll run but also something that's light weight and makes power. So help me figure this out boys!
P.S. I'll maybe try to find some pics of what I'm thinking of doing to try and help convey what I'm thinking.
1. Basically find the largest diameter and longest 3" resonator possible and dump it close to where it dumps now. This option is pretty simple, pretty cheap, but would probably have the worst sound and highest noise but lightest weight.
2. Try my best to fit a 3" more full sized muffler in the tunnel (maybe at a slight angle) and deal with the decreased ground clearance and aero smoothness under car. Again it would be dumped behind the seats and would probably weigh close to the same and would tame the noise a bit more.
3. Run 3" pipe back to the gap in front of the gas tank, turn 90 degrees to the passenger side, and put a fuller sized muffler there with a side exit somehow near the back of the side skirt. This option gives the best bet for a decent sound/noise level but would be heavier, more expensive, harder to fab up, etc etc.
Because I'm probably going to go for a strong NA build in the future, I want something that is big enough to support the cams I'll run but also something that's light weight and makes power. So help me figure this out boys!
P.S. I'll maybe try to find some pics of what I'm thinking of doing to try and help convey what I'm thinking.