callahan

Oooo ready to c this

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

*sniff sniff* I smell lexan

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

naw...I just quiffed...



Nice, you're going to have to remeasure your weight, I think you've now taken the lead in weight reduction.

Also, I'd be curious to know how much those enkeis weigh WITH rubber...
Keep us posted, please!

J>

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I have no witty retort for that. You've stumped me.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

Oh I've the lead for a while now sorry Tim! haha I'm really looking forward to a sub 2600lb static weight and after some new projects I should be there with a couple pounds to spare.


I just went out and weighed the rear window glass and related components and it came out to about 14-15lbs. So it's definitely going to be worth the effort to get some lexan in and ditch the glass.

I'll keep you posted on the enkei weights

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

that is a great update Rex....i bet if anything Tim will be proud

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

^^^ Agreed ^^^

Inaccurate

No need to apologize because you ain't ahead of me B U D D Y

I have been into street racing all of my life. The one thing that always applies, at least to me, is "what class are you in?" Just like in sanctioned racing, there *are* categories.

You either drive the car every day or you don't. In my books, that has always been the deciding factor. It is *not* about if the car *could* be driven every day. Either it *is* or it isn't.

I use my car every week day. Thru the heart of Houston in the peak of rush hour traffic. Round trip is 75 miles daily. Thru heavy thunderstorms, thru snow, thru 104+ degree heat waves, thru icy roads, thru hurricanes, thru non moving traffic (accidents) that can sit still for an hour. My TL Diet ain't a Trailer Queen.

Oh I've the lead for now and forever for a daily driver sorry Villo!

It is easy to sacrifice for a track only car. I challenge anyone to match my level of commitment and sacrifice in their daily driver.

But on the brighter side, no one can match my level of enjoyment either. For I do enjoy unspeakable enjoyment for two hours every weekday.

I have said this before and I will say again. After all of this time, 5+ years, my body still dumps adrenaline into my system every time I walk out to my car. When you turn on your car, does your car return the favor? This is what I enjoy twice a day, every Monday thru Friday.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ Tim well said....at first i was like "oooo hostility" but i know you mean no harm....

I think categories is what differentiates you two....you lead the DD park and Rex is ahead in the "track" category.....

I also have to add that we all are able to make all these weight losses quickly because of your sacrifice....because of your well documented thread....because of your insight on multiple items.....

I really have to say hats off to both of you....

You with the original diet
and Rex with the Version 2.0 and the AC delete and the dryer hose air blower.....

Hats off !!!

Inaccurate

I intended for the emotions to shine thru in the writing. Villo is a competitive car guy just like me. I know that he will take my reply like talk among friends at the track. Guys can talk competitively between each other, especially friends.

My reply was aimed at the general reader too. I want the reader to understand that my diet is a daily driver.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

Couldn't have said it better myself!!

Inaccurate

Indeed !

Congrats on doing the polycarbonate.

This is still on my To-Do list. I had estimated the weight savings for the lexan to be approximately 40 pounds. This is for the two rear door windows and regulators (window motors), and the rear window.



Estimated Reduction for rear door windows
------------------------------------
Each rear door glass = 8.0 x 2 = -16.0
Each Regulator = 5.0 x 2 = -10.0

Add Lexan = +4.0
--------------------
ESTIMATED TOTAL = 22 lbs



Estimated Reduction For Rear Window
------------------------------------
Rear Window = -24 lbs

Add Lexan (using 1/8 thickness Lexan) = +5.7 lbs
Add brace = +1.0
--------------------
ESTIMATED TOTAL = 17 LBS



But, it looks like my estimate was off for the rear glass. I estimated the rear glass wieghed 24 Lbs. But, the rear glass is only 15 Lbs ???


What brand and thickness of polycarbonate will you be using? Special purpose rivets? Will you be using a support beam across the rear window?

Please let me know if you need any links to helpful sites or polycarbonate vendors. I have some notes that I have collected already from about a year ago.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

I plan on using 1/16" sheets for the side windows and when I get to the rear window, I'll probably use 1/8" or 1/4" depending on race class rules. I'm not sure if rivets or a self tapping screw would be better, still researching a lot of this. The rear window would definitely have at least one support beam but probably two.


I'd love to see any notes you have on the project!

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

Vill, are you having the windows made locally or shipping out? or even making it yourself???

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

definitely DIY, it's really not a super hard project. I make all my parts hahahaha

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

I guess my question for the DIY is are you going to try and get the curve of the window? I ask because I think there is a slight curve to it but I could be wrong

or because it is track you are just looking for a straight flat fitment?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

^^^ aint that right

EDIT: @ Rex

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I think once bolted down, the lexan will have to curve, at least a little bit.
Thanks Vill...
Innac, wasn't knocking you, for sure. Was speaking purely from a weight reduction standpoint, not the fact that you had to keep it driveable!

You guys are both pretty amazing.

Inaccurate

Useful Installation Tips (click here)

Weights and other interesting specifications (click here)

Special Supplies (must see!) (click here)

Pro Glass (click here)

Clear 1 Racing (click here)

ePlastics (click here)




BELOW IS RANDOM TEXT THAT I SAVED


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Good forum thread (click here)

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Use the original windows as templates, for the flat glass, ie side windows, for the rear use some 4mm MDF that bends and make a template for the rear window, as this returns to flat after its bent, so when you are happy with the fit, transfer all the shapes to your lexan, use lexan that will bend, I used either 4mm or 5mm as this will bend into the rear window and the window rubbers are strong enough to hold the shape. Tools needed Jigsaw or an air saw, magic marker, MDF and a sanding block just to de burr the edges after cutting.If you are in the UK a friend of mine supplys ready cut full sets for bug, rear glass and side windows for a good price... (n/t) (Rich) (22-Jan-01 03:57:36)

Do NOT remove the plastic paper when cutting the lexan windows. After the windows are cut, pull the paper back enough to slip the window rubber on. Pull off paper when all of the windows have been installed. (n/t) (Andy Costello) (22-Jan-01 12:46:11)

Art Thraen did you custom make yours or can you order from somewhere to fit in the rubber like yours? can't find lexan on the rock TY (n/t) (Kawika51) (22-Jan-01 15:55:30)

Take it from an Expert...If you copy the outside of the rear window, it will be too big...If you copy the inside, it will be too small. Also, the rubber moldings from different companies fir different. If you are looking for PC windows in the states: RLR (714) 630-2091, ERCO (909) 689-4430, Jaycee (714) 848-9898, Rancho Trans (714) 680-6737, Perf. Tech. (714) 526-0533 or over seas: Bernard Newbury, England: Cagero, Switzerland: VW Speed and Customs, Germany.... and just buy premade ones that fit! (JM) (22-Jan-01 17:03:04)



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------


For Leaxan, need to use a silicon
based adhesive/selant. There is some stuff called "structural"
silicone that is totally HD. Dow Corning and others make it.


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------


all of the problems with Lexan...the scratching, yellowing, fogging, were addressed with Speedglass. It's a phenominal product.

As far as quality, Percy's speedglass is handsdown the best poly you are gonna get for windows in your car. It can get a little pricy but you will not be dissapointed.



CUTTING LEXAN
How do I cut my Lexan Windows?

Use a saber or jig saw with a medium to coarse tooth blade running at slow to medium speed. To avoid stress risers which will cause fracturing, be sure to sand the edges smooth. Also, when installing the window, make sure that the hole in the Lexan is slightly larger than the fastener to avoid excessive stress in this area.



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Don't paint the edges of the Lexan! It weakens it. Five Star Racing Car Bodies makes blackout kits for most popular models. These kits are very easy to apply with a mix of a few drops of dish soap and water in a spray bottle. Use the supplied squeegee to remove air bubbles. A hobby knife worked well to trim the edges and remove the film from the holes for the Dzus fasteners.

Summit Racing carries polycarbonate windows from Clear One. The Ohio-based company makes its windows from MR10-coated Lexan, which has 10 times the scratch and abrasion resistance of standard, uncoated polycarbonate. This material is so good, Clear One guarantees it for five years against fading, yellowing, and cracking. That's darn near a lifetime in the race car world.



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Lexan is super easy to work with, but make sure you get the scratch resistant kind and leave the paper covering on until you are done cutting the windows. We used a regular jigsaw with a sheet metal blade amd cleaned up the edges with a file.



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------


If you go to the opening McMaster page and type in 'lexan' or 'polycarbonate' in the search on the left, it will take you to the top of the tree so you can narrow it down to the specific sheet you're looking for.

As far as price goes, I don't know if you're going to do much better than McMaster Carr. But I should mention, you have to have an account with them in order to order.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^Wow...excellent post. I'm sure it'll be super useful!

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

All great info! Thanks Tim

Inaccurate

My pleasure buddy..... I might have a vested interest in the outcome of this project.



Please take a lot of pics and weigh stuff as you go along. Maybe make a DIY thread

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

well I still have the right side to tear down so I probably could do a small write-up if people are interested.

Inaccurate

I'm very interested. And, all of the future dieters-to-be are interested.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

Did some painting on the window frames today. not needed for anything but without the black covers thingys it didn't match the front so i figured a quick spray would help things. should have lexan in by the weekend.









thoughts?

callahan

^looks great, Nicely done.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

added weight from the paint

Inaccurate

Good save with the black paint

You have a good eye. This is not being patented, correct? I could see how someone good steal this idea.

Have you weighed the door glass? trim pieces? And, you said that the rear glass was apporx 15 Lbs? Have you weighed the window regulators (motor and linkage) yet? please Please PLEASE

BTW - I LOVE the "Rescue" decal pointing to the door handle. Awesome.

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

I must have mis-communicated that number before. I weighed the rear door glass pieces, regulator, and most of the trim pieces and the weight came out to 14lbs. So with the many bolts and misc. hardware there is on each side it'd be 15lbs no problem. So your estimates were pretty close Tim. Then add back the weight of the Lexan, about 6lbs for a 3x4ft sheet which will make both rear windows, and the net loss should be about 24lbs. Not too shabby for $70-80 project!

EDIT - that net loss also does NOT include the steel from the inside door frame that can now be cut out. Definitely a couple pounds right there.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Wow...so even with glass it's a 24 lb loss per rear window?
Keep us posted on how much metal you're able to cut out!

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

now this thread has picked up !!!

great updates Rex....cant wait to see more....

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

NO

12lbs per rear window

24lbs for both the rear windows.....

Inaccurate

Rex,

When you said rear window before, I was thinking you meant the big back window and not the rear door glass.

Do you have any immediate plans to do the back window too?

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

We'll see. I've seen a lot more failed attempts at well done rear windows than doors and the cost is significantly more. Plus I'm upgrading the brakes and buying the enkei's right now so might hold off a bit.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^
sooo...give it like a week then?!?!

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

Rex the price you paid for the enkei's you should be able to get multiple things at the same time

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

pppsssshhhhh....I wish! haha


I knew that'd come back to bite me. haha still gotta get tires that fit those wheels too you know!

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

DO EET...

vill0169

iTrader: (4)

lol consider me persuaded????? haha

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

...nobody says no to Ben Stiller...