TL Diet 2.0/Track Car Build - Roll Cage Pg 51

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Old 11-09-2011, 02:41 PM
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I'm not a fan of Rotora stuff purely based on their design theory. I would rather give Stoptech pads a try if I had to run a street pad for a "cold" lap around a track.

Definitely try a dedicated track pad for repeated hot lapping (and fresh DOT4 fluid). The pads don't need a higher coefficient of friction, just increased operating temp. Then we'll see if you can't just make those Acura letters fall right off... lol

Last edited by 94eg!; 11-09-2011 at 02:44 PM.
Old 11-09-2011, 02:53 PM
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Oooh heres another idea. Get some titanium insulating shims made for the D1001 pad that we run it the Brembo caliper. Interesting pieces for only $70. They recommend doubling them up for extreme duty if space allows (the second link has thicker options for less money than buying two sets).

http://takspeed.com/shop/index.php?m...products_id=30

http://hardbrakes.com/index.php?main...products_id=30





They even have dual layer ventilated version for a lot more money!

http://hardbrakes.com/index.php?main...roducts_id=137


Last edited by 94eg!; 11-09-2011 at 02:58 PM.
Old 11-09-2011, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 94eg!
I wish I had Brembos poking through my RPF1's...

rtibbitts07: I'm interested to see how your V12's fared at the track...how many sessions have you used them on? I'm planning on finally taking my TL to the road course in the spring and i'm wondering how did the Hankooks do out there? Did they stick well enough? What size are you running? I'm definitely gonna upgrade to either the Hankook RS-3 or Nitto NT05 either way...
Old 11-10-2011, 11:14 AM
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Thanks for the photos and videos, very nice.

Add some brake cooling ducts if you haven't already. Some of the guys i've talked to said they make a difference.

Add some downforce wherever you can. Roof diffusers, canards, side splitters, vortex generators, rear underbody diffusers. It will make a difference. For a test, just drive at 100mph with your hand straight out the window, fingers closed, and hand angled just right and go for about 5 miles and figure out how tired your arm muscles are lol.
Old 11-10-2011, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ACCURATEin
Thanks for the photos and videos, very nice.

Add some brake cooling ducts if you haven't already. Some of the guys i've talked to said they make a difference.

Add some downforce wherever you can. Roof diffusers, canards, side splitters, vortex generators, rear underbody diffusers. It will make a difference. For a test, just drive at 100mph with your hand straight out the window, fingers closed, and hand angled just right and go for about 5 miles and figure out how tired your arm muscles are lol.

Brake ducts - done
Blocked off front bumper - done
Splitter - done
Rear Diffuser - done
Underbody panel - done
Wing - done
Extended side skirts - in the works
Canards - we'll see
Vortex gens - we'll see


I love me some downforce!
Old 11-11-2011, 10:25 AM
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Parts are in FINALLY!!!!


Already put the PCD's in and got to hear my sweet baby's voice again after almost three months of silence!


I know Inacc was looking for weights on the new coilovers so here you go!

Fronts weighed in at 10.4 lbs
Rear weighed in at 8.6 lbs

To me that sounds pretty respectable?!

Gotta give a huge shoutout to Rich at RV6-P. Contacted him about possibly sponsoring the car with some long overdue parts for the car and he was immediately supportive and on board with the idea. I can't wait to get his name on the car and I highly recommend his products to anyone looking for quality parts and service for their car. Stay tuned for pics of the new graphics on the car when I get them on.

RV6 goodies with my new BC coilovers (minus PCDs...oops)

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Car should be rolling soon and back to doing work!
Old 11-12-2011, 03:15 AM
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Old 11-19-2011, 12:07 PM
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Everything is on the car and rolling again. Probably spending the entire day getting the suspension dialed in again. Measure, jack, adjust, measure.....repeat........repeat......repeat.....r epeat. Gotta do it to get it right though.

Was also thinking about making a DIY for camber adjustments and maybe even toe adjustments so all us AZer's wouldn't ever have to pay for an alignment again. Anybody interested?
Old 11-19-2011, 02:38 PM
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I'm in. At least it would save me the hassle of having to do the write-up. I've been doing toe alignments with strings on my cars for a little while, and the TL was next on my list. It really takes the weight off your shoulders of having to worry about paying $80+ every time you do suspension work. Best part is, it can be done in less than an hour if your good at it.

Last edited by 94eg!; 11-19-2011 at 02:41 PM.
Old 11-19-2011, 07:08 PM
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I have free alignment at Firestone....so let me know if you need any spec sheet or something like that
Old 11-20-2011, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by vill0169
Was also thinking about making a DIY for camber adjustments and maybe even toe adjustments so all us AZer's wouldn't ever have to pay for an alignment again. Anybody interested?
YES. Please, please yes. I am highly reluctant to take my car in to the dealer for an alignment. I never have yet. Thankfully, I have been able to avoid this. I am too afraid of the technician taking my "race car" out for a test drive (cough..... joy ride) and crashing it.
Old 11-20-2011, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
I have free alignment at Firestone....so let me know if you need any spec sheet or something like that
You cannot use the toe specs from an alignment shop because they are shown in degrees. You need the ones out of your owners manual when doing a string alignment. They are in millimeters. Current standards are 0mm +/- 2mm for both front & rear. 04-05 used to have 2mm more toe-in in the rear but that was changed with that tire-wear TSB.

It is also imperative that you know your front & rear track widths to setup the strings in the first place. You can find this spec online or in the shop manual.
Old 11-20-2011, 12:02 PM
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^^^ well honestly i dont have so much knowledge about this....

what I meant it I can have them get my car in spec @ a height which most track cars here on Azine are at. Then I would measure the length of the camber kit....

villie can use this length and make a camber kit and be in spec....
Old 11-20-2011, 12:23 PM
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You can also get this for $20 and stick it on your rotor though the wheel.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SNG-61800/?rtype=10



Seems like a cool tool, but I haven't tried one. It's meant to measure your front strut angle (macpherson style) before disassembly. This way you can put it back how it was when your done. Seems like it would work well for measuring camber from your brake rotor as long as you calibrate/zero it on a perfectly vertical service first.
Old 11-20-2011, 02:40 PM
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That above would not be a very good camber tool with that pivot point in the middle. Longacre is my tool company of choice for just about everything track related.

This is what I use now, very strong and measures +- 6 degrees of camber.

http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...etup/78260.jpg


I was busy today with other crap but my DIY for camber adjustment will cover everything you'd need for tools and knowledge to get the job done.
Old 11-20-2011, 03:52 PM
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Hey villa, I'm definitely interested in this too...keep us posted!
Old 11-20-2011, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by vill0169
That above would not be a very good camber tool with that pivot point in the middle. Longacre is my tool company of choice for just about everything track related.
Well the pivot is meant to allow you "zero" it out on the cambered surface to compare camber left to right, or before & after. It would also measure actual camber if you zero the gauge on a perfectly vertical surface. I don't really see the problem with that.

Those other camber/caster gauges are cool but cost $120+. Definitely necessary if you have a race-car with adjustable castor.
Old 11-21-2011, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by vill0169
I was busy today with other crap but my DIY for camber adjustment will cover everything you'd need for tools and knowledge to get the job done.
This would be Awesome! Save a lot of people some money over time! All in for it Villo! Thanks in advance
Old 11-21-2011, 01:44 PM
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Here is an alignment write-up I found that best explained it for me. I like this one because it finds the centerline of the chassis off the center caps of the wheels using the front & rear track. Only thing I do different is use a thin 4# (.2mm) fluro-orange fishing line. I also use a steel metric scale (ruler) with a bubble-level glued on it to make measurements. This removes any errors from holding the scale at an angle. I've found this makes measurements easily repeatable within .2mm (yes "point" two).

Also keep in mind this method only works if your running the same wheels & center caps front & back. If you have staggered rims, you may want to measure the thickness of the wheel behind the center caps to be sure the front & rear sit the same distance from the hub.

http://www.negative-camber.org/jam14...alignment.html

I haven't bothered with camber yet since it's not adjustable on any of my cars.

There is even an Excel spread sheet in that link that helps calculate degree angles and string offsets for any given setup. Pretty cool!

Last edited by 94eg!; 11-21-2011 at 01:51 PM.
Old 11-21-2011, 04:06 PM
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It's a good write up, I'm just gonna to a quick down and dirty one for the not so serious members here on AZ.
Old 11-21-2011, 09:53 PM
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DIY for the camber adjustments is up. hope you all like it.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/diy-camber-adjustments-stop-paying-alignments-839448/
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Old 11-24-2011, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by vill0169
DIY for the camber adjustments is up. hope you all like it.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=839448
Looks good, can't wait to try it out when I get my coilovers.
Old 11-26-2011, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by vill0169

I know Inacc was looking for weights on the new coilovers so here you go!

Fronts weighed in at 10.4 lbs
Rear weighed in at 8.6 lbs

To me that sounds pretty respectable?!

Thank you so much for the weights.

By chance, would you have the weight of the oem pieces for comparison? If not, do you think (based on feel) that the BC coilovers are much lighter than oem?
Old 11-27-2011, 09:10 AM
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I know that my omnipower coils and skunk 2 struts weighed about 20 lbs less than my oem combos. (as a whole)
Old 11-27-2011, 10:09 AM
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Rex....couple questions:

How much to the stock rims weigh ? (17x8 5 spoke)
What tires to you run on the track and what tires do you run otherwise ? How much do they weigh and whats their profile...
Old 11-27-2011, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
Rex....couple questions:

How much to the stock rims weigh ? (17x8 5 spoke)
What tires to you run on the track and what tires do you run otherwise ? How much do they weigh and whats their profile...

Stock wheels are about 23lbs IIRC. I ran Bridgestone RE050's this season in 245/40/18. I don't remember what they weigh but it isn't anything great. I just like the 140 treadwear

This is number 1 priority for next year. 17x9.5 rpf1s (~16 lbs) and 255/40 RS-3's
Old 11-27-2011, 10:44 AM
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^^^ buaahaha perfect....I was looking into the 17x8 rpf01's....they are ~15.6lbs and 255/40continental DW (not for track but everyday use)....and they are ~19lbs....35lbs for the setup....

my current 18" setup is ~52lbs and stockies setup is ~47lbs....

total saving average: 15 x 4 x 4 (rolling mass) = 240 lbs
Old 11-27-2011, 10:55 AM
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^^ Be careful with the sizing on a 17x8 wheel. I've run 255's in the past on 8 inch wide wheels but it takes a stiffer sidewall to pull it off which IIRC, the Conti really lack. just two cents
Old 11-27-2011, 11:09 AM
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^^^ see thats why I ask you experts....

I was debating between 245 and 255's and completely forgot about the sidewall....

how do you think the 245's would do on an 8" ?
Old 11-27-2011, 11:35 AM
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fine, it's basically the ideal size for the 8 inch wide wheel. I think tirerack would say the 235 is but 245 gives a little more wheel protection than the 235.
Old 11-27-2011, 11:49 AM
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This is a crazy ass build, bump for the first track ONLY TL that I have seen
Old 11-27-2011, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by vill0169
fine, it's basically the ideal size for the 8 inch wide wheel. I think tirerack would say the 235 is but 245 gives a little more wheel protection than the 235.
more than wheel protection i was thinking traction...am I thinking right ?
Old 11-27-2011, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mY sLOW UA6
This is a crazy ass build, bump for the first track ONLY TL that I have seen
Thanks bro

Originally Posted by swoosh
more than wheel protection i was thinking traction...am I thinking right ?

well traction yes, up to the point the flex in the sidewall makes it feel all loosey goosey in the corners.

245 is the best of both worlds for that size wheel IMO.
Old 11-27-2011, 12:47 PM
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^^^ I do want to take my car to the track....to the strip and use it as a DD....

this setup am thinking is only for summer (am planning on moving to ATL in the next year or so)...I want to be on lightweight setup throughout and not swapping rims and tires....

in this case what tires do you recommend from your experience? something which can take the heat + dry traction + wet traction (NO SNOW)....something which are kinda lightweight as well
Old 11-27-2011, 01:06 PM
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I'd probably go with something like the Dunlop Star Specs. Streetable, great dry and wet traction and decently priced.
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Old 11-27-2011, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
^^^ see thats why I ask you experts....

I was debating between 245 and 255's and completely forgot about the sidewall....

how do you think the 245's would do on an 8" ?
Definitely do NOT get the 17x8...you will def regret it...

First, the look isn't nearly as nice as the 17x9 and wider...it has a pumpkin face...as opposed to the concave look of the 17x9+

Secondly, you're limiting yourself to a smaller tire size...check my Sig for what I got...and I could not be happier with the size, look, and performance....

Besides the weight difference between the 8 and 9+ is so minuscule...that def should not be a factor at all...

You will be disappointed with the 17x8 no doubt....
Old 11-27-2011, 01:24 PM
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^^^ holy heavy tire batman....

they are 28 lbs as compared to 22 lbs continentals....

6x4x5(rolling mass for tires) = 120lbs

I am really looking at a lightweight setup....~35lbs overall....if the rims are 15-16, my tires cant be more than 20

I might have to take the tires you mentioned and have tirerack do the tire shave that Inaccurate mentioned....
Old 11-27-2011, 01:25 PM
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couldn't agree more with fenda rolla, just kinda thought he was set on the size. You AT guys definitely have the wheel sizes going for you with the RPF1s lol


swoosh - I'd consider "giving" on the weight just a bit to get the quality tire and level of performance you're after.

Last edited by vill0169; 11-27-2011 at 01:28 PM.
Old 11-27-2011, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by vill0169
I'd probably go with something like the Dunlop Star Specs. Streetable, great dry and wet traction and decently priced.
One thing about the star specs is that they are all pretty heavy...especially compared to other comparable tires....

Can't go wrong with the RS3s...or NT05s...and they will be cheaper than the star specs...

Last edited by the fenda rolla; 11-27-2011 at 01:30 PM.
Old 11-27-2011, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by vill0169
couldn't agree more^ just kinda thought he was set on the size. You AT guys definitely have the wheel sizes going for you with the RPF1s lol
Haha! Is it because of the brembos? Just get the base brake mod! Lol


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