TL Diet 2.0/Track Car Build - Roll Cage Pg 51
#481
I'm not a fan of Rotora stuff purely based on their design theory. I would rather give Stoptech pads a try if I had to run a street pad for a "cold" lap around a track.
Definitely try a dedicated track pad for repeated hot lapping (and fresh DOT4 fluid). The pads don't need a higher coefficient of friction, just increased operating temp. Then we'll see if you can't just make those Acura letters fall right off... lol
Definitely try a dedicated track pad for repeated hot lapping (and fresh DOT4 fluid). The pads don't need a higher coefficient of friction, just increased operating temp. Then we'll see if you can't just make those Acura letters fall right off... lol
Last edited by 94eg!; 11-09-2011 at 02:44 PM.
#482
Oooh heres another idea. Get some titanium insulating shims made for the D1001 pad that we run it the Brembo caliper. Interesting pieces for only $70. They recommend doubling them up for extreme duty if space allows (the second link has thicker options for less money than buying two sets).
http://takspeed.com/shop/index.php?m...products_id=30
http://hardbrakes.com/index.php?main...products_id=30
They even have dual layer ventilated version for a lot more money!
http://hardbrakes.com/index.php?main...roducts_id=137
http://takspeed.com/shop/index.php?m...products_id=30
http://hardbrakes.com/index.php?main...products_id=30
They even have dual layer ventilated version for a lot more money!
http://hardbrakes.com/index.php?main...roducts_id=137
Last edited by 94eg!; 11-09-2011 at 02:58 PM.
#483
The Track Terror
I wish I had Brembos poking through my RPF1's...
rtibbitts07: I'm interested to see how your V12's fared at the track...how many sessions have you used them on? I'm planning on finally taking my TL to the road course in the spring and i'm wondering how did the Hankooks do out there? Did they stick well enough? What size are you running? I'm definitely gonna upgrade to either the Hankook RS-3 or Nitto NT05 either way...
rtibbitts07: I'm interested to see how your V12's fared at the track...how many sessions have you used them on? I'm planning on finally taking my TL to the road course in the spring and i'm wondering how did the Hankooks do out there? Did they stick well enough? What size are you running? I'm definitely gonna upgrade to either the Hankook RS-3 or Nitto NT05 either way...
#484
tehLEGOman
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Thanks for the photos and videos, very nice.
Add some brake cooling ducts if you haven't already. Some of the guys i've talked to said they make a difference.
Add some downforce wherever you can. Roof diffusers, canards, side splitters, vortex generators, rear underbody diffusers. It will make a difference. For a test, just drive at 100mph with your hand straight out the window, fingers closed, and hand angled just right and go for about 5 miles and figure out how tired your arm muscles are lol.
Add some brake cooling ducts if you haven't already. Some of the guys i've talked to said they make a difference.
Add some downforce wherever you can. Roof diffusers, canards, side splitters, vortex generators, rear underbody diffusers. It will make a difference. For a test, just drive at 100mph with your hand straight out the window, fingers closed, and hand angled just right and go for about 5 miles and figure out how tired your arm muscles are lol.
#485
Thanks for the photos and videos, very nice.
Add some brake cooling ducts if you haven't already. Some of the guys i've talked to said they make a difference.
Add some downforce wherever you can. Roof diffusers, canards, side splitters, vortex generators, rear underbody diffusers. It will make a difference. For a test, just drive at 100mph with your hand straight out the window, fingers closed, and hand angled just right and go for about 5 miles and figure out how tired your arm muscles are lol.
Add some brake cooling ducts if you haven't already. Some of the guys i've talked to said they make a difference.
Add some downforce wherever you can. Roof diffusers, canards, side splitters, vortex generators, rear underbody diffusers. It will make a difference. For a test, just drive at 100mph with your hand straight out the window, fingers closed, and hand angled just right and go for about 5 miles and figure out how tired your arm muscles are lol.
Brake ducts - done
Blocked off front bumper - done
Splitter - done
Rear Diffuser - done
Underbody panel - done
Wing - done
Extended side skirts - in the works
Canards - we'll see
Vortex gens - we'll see
I love me some downforce!
#486
Parts are in FINALLY!!!!
Already put the PCD's in and got to hear my sweet baby's voice again after almost three months of silence!
I know Inacc was looking for weights on the new coilovers so here you go!
Fronts weighed in at 10.4 lbs
Rear weighed in at 8.6 lbs
To me that sounds pretty respectable?!
Gotta give a huge shoutout to Rich at RV6-P. Contacted him about possibly sponsoring the car with some long overdue parts for the car and he was immediately supportive and on board with the idea. I can't wait to get his name on the car and I highly recommend his products to anyone looking for quality parts and service for their car. Stay tuned for pics of the new graphics on the car when I get them on.
RV6 goodies with my new BC coilovers (minus PCDs...oops)
Car should be rolling soon and back to doing work!
Already put the PCD's in and got to hear my sweet baby's voice again after almost three months of silence!
I know Inacc was looking for weights on the new coilovers so here you go!
Fronts weighed in at 10.4 lbs
Rear weighed in at 8.6 lbs
To me that sounds pretty respectable?!
Gotta give a huge shoutout to Rich at RV6-P. Contacted him about possibly sponsoring the car with some long overdue parts for the car and he was immediately supportive and on board with the idea. I can't wait to get his name on the car and I highly recommend his products to anyone looking for quality parts and service for their car. Stay tuned for pics of the new graphics on the car when I get them on.
RV6 goodies with my new BC coilovers (minus PCDs...oops)
Car should be rolling soon and back to doing work!
#487
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#488
Everything is on the car and rolling again. Probably spending the entire day getting the suspension dialed in again. Measure, jack, adjust, measure.....repeat........repeat......repeat.....r epeat. Gotta do it to get it right though.
Was also thinking about making a DIY for camber adjustments and maybe even toe adjustments so all us AZer's wouldn't ever have to pay for an alignment again. Anybody interested?
Was also thinking about making a DIY for camber adjustments and maybe even toe adjustments so all us AZer's wouldn't ever have to pay for an alignment again. Anybody interested?
#489
I'm in. At least it would save me the hassle of having to do the write-up. I've been doing toe alignments with strings on my cars for a little while, and the TL was next on my list. It really takes the weight off your shoulders of having to worry about paying $80+ every time you do suspension work. Best part is, it can be done in less than an hour if your good at it.
Last edited by 94eg!; 11-19-2011 at 02:41 PM.
#490
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I have free alignment at Firestone....so let me know if you need any spec sheet or something like that
#491
Safety Car
YES. Please, please yes. I am highly reluctant to take my car in to the dealer for an alignment. I never have yet. Thankfully, I have been able to avoid this. I am too afraid of the technician taking my "race car" out for a test drive (cough..... joy ride) and crashing it.
#492
It is also imperative that you know your front & rear track widths to setup the strings in the first place. You can find this spec online or in the shop manual.
#493
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^^^ well honestly i dont have so much knowledge about this....
what I meant it I can have them get my car in spec @ a height which most track cars here on Azine are at. Then I would measure the length of the camber kit....
villie can use this length and make a camber kit and be in spec....
what I meant it I can have them get my car in spec @ a height which most track cars here on Azine are at. Then I would measure the length of the camber kit....
villie can use this length and make a camber kit and be in spec....
#494
You can also get this for $20 and stick it on your rotor though the wheel.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SNG-61800/?rtype=10
Seems like a cool tool, but I haven't tried one. It's meant to measure your front strut angle (macpherson style) before disassembly. This way you can put it back how it was when your done. Seems like it would work well for measuring camber from your brake rotor as long as you calibrate/zero it on a perfectly vertical service first.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SNG-61800/?rtype=10
Seems like a cool tool, but I haven't tried one. It's meant to measure your front strut angle (macpherson style) before disassembly. This way you can put it back how it was when your done. Seems like it would work well for measuring camber from your brake rotor as long as you calibrate/zero it on a perfectly vertical service first.
#495
That above would not be a very good camber tool with that pivot point in the middle. Longacre is my tool company of choice for just about everything track related.
This is what I use now, very strong and measures +- 6 degrees of camber.
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...etup/78260.jpg
I was busy today with other crap but my DIY for camber adjustment will cover everything you'd need for tools and knowledge to get the job done.
This is what I use now, very strong and measures +- 6 degrees of camber.
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...etup/78260.jpg
I was busy today with other crap but my DIY for camber adjustment will cover everything you'd need for tools and knowledge to get the job done.
#497
Those other camber/caster gauges are cool but cost $120+. Definitely necessary if you have a race-car with adjustable castor.
#499
Here is an alignment write-up I found that best explained it for me. I like this one because it finds the centerline of the chassis off the center caps of the wheels using the front & rear track. Only thing I do different is use a thin 4# (.2mm) fluro-orange fishing line. I also use a steel metric scale (ruler) with a bubble-level glued on it to make measurements. This removes any errors from holding the scale at an angle. I've found this makes measurements easily repeatable within .2mm (yes "point" two).
Also keep in mind this method only works if your running the same wheels & center caps front & back. If you have staggered rims, you may want to measure the thickness of the wheel behind the center caps to be sure the front & rear sit the same distance from the hub.
http://www.negative-camber.org/jam14...alignment.html
I haven't bothered with camber yet since it's not adjustable on any of my cars.
There is even an Excel spread sheet in that link that helps calculate degree angles and string offsets for any given setup. Pretty cool!
Also keep in mind this method only works if your running the same wheels & center caps front & back. If you have staggered rims, you may want to measure the thickness of the wheel behind the center caps to be sure the front & rear sit the same distance from the hub.
http://www.negative-camber.org/jam14...alignment.html
I haven't bothered with camber yet since it's not adjustable on any of my cars.
There is even an Excel spread sheet in that link that helps calculate degree angles and string offsets for any given setup. Pretty cool!
Last edited by 94eg!; 11-21-2011 at 01:51 PM.
#501
DIY for the camber adjustments is up. hope you all like it.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/diy-camber-adjustments-stop-paying-alignments-839448/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-tires-wheels-suspension-97/diy-camber-adjustments-stop-paying-alignments-839448/
#502
Burning Brakes
DIY for the camber adjustments is up. hope you all like it.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=839448
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=839448
#503
Safety Car
Thank you so much for the weights.
By chance, would you have the weight of the oem pieces for comparison? If not, do you think (based on feel) that the BC coilovers are much lighter than oem?
#505
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Rex....couple questions:
How much to the stock rims weigh ? (17x8 5 spoke)
What tires to you run on the track and what tires do you run otherwise ? How much do they weigh and whats their profile...
How much to the stock rims weigh ? (17x8 5 spoke)
What tires to you run on the track and what tires do you run otherwise ? How much do they weigh and whats their profile...
#506
Stock wheels are about 23lbs IIRC. I ran Bridgestone RE050's this season in 245/40/18. I don't remember what they weigh but it isn't anything great. I just like the 140 treadwear
This is number 1 priority for next year. 17x9.5 rpf1s (~16 lbs) and 255/40 RS-3's
#507
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^^^ buaahaha perfect....I was looking into the 17x8 rpf01's....they are ~15.6lbs and 255/40continental DW (not for track but everyday use)....and they are ~19lbs....35lbs for the setup....
my current 18" setup is ~52lbs and stockies setup is ~47lbs....
total saving average: 15 x 4 x 4 (rolling mass) = 240 lbs
my current 18" setup is ~52lbs and stockies setup is ~47lbs....
total saving average: 15 x 4 x 4 (rolling mass) = 240 lbs
#509
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^^^ see thats why I ask you experts....
I was debating between 245 and 255's and completely forgot about the sidewall....
how do you think the 245's would do on an 8" ?
I was debating between 245 and 255's and completely forgot about the sidewall....
how do you think the 245's would do on an 8" ?
#512
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#514
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^^^ I do want to take my car to the track....to the strip and use it as a DD....
this setup am thinking is only for summer (am planning on moving to ATL in the next year or so)...I want to be on lightweight setup throughout and not swapping rims and tires....
in this case what tires do you recommend from your experience? something which can take the heat + dry traction + wet traction (NO SNOW)....something which are kinda lightweight as well
this setup am thinking is only for summer (am planning on moving to ATL in the next year or so)...I want to be on lightweight setup throughout and not swapping rims and tires....
in this case what tires do you recommend from your experience? something which can take the heat + dry traction + wet traction (NO SNOW)....something which are kinda lightweight as well
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swoosh (11-27-2011)
#516
The Track Terror
First, the look isn't nearly as nice as the 17x9 and wider...it has a pumpkin face...as opposed to the concave look of the 17x9+
Secondly, you're limiting yourself to a smaller tire size...check my Sig for what I got...and I could not be happier with the size, look, and performance....
Besides the weight difference between the 8 and 9+ is so minuscule...that def should not be a factor at all...
You will be disappointed with the 17x8 no doubt....
#517
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^^^ holy heavy tire batman....
they are 28 lbs as compared to 22 lbs continentals....
6x4x5(rolling mass for tires) = 120lbs
I am really looking at a lightweight setup....~35lbs overall....if the rims are 15-16, my tires cant be more than 20
I might have to take the tires you mentioned and have tirerack do the tire shave that Inaccurate mentioned....
they are 28 lbs as compared to 22 lbs continentals....
6x4x5(rolling mass for tires) = 120lbs
I am really looking at a lightweight setup....~35lbs overall....if the rims are 15-16, my tires cant be more than 20
I might have to take the tires you mentioned and have tirerack do the tire shave that Inaccurate mentioned....
#518
couldn't agree more with fenda rolla, just kinda thought he was set on the size. You AT guys definitely have the wheel sizes going for you with the RPF1s lol
swoosh - I'd consider "giving" on the weight just a bit to get the quality tire and level of performance you're after.
swoosh - I'd consider "giving" on the weight just a bit to get the quality tire and level of performance you're after.
Last edited by vill0169; 11-27-2011 at 01:28 PM.
#519
The Track Terror
Can't go wrong with the RS3s...or NT05s...and they will be cheaper than the star specs...
Last edited by the fenda rolla; 11-27-2011 at 01:30 PM.
#520
The Track Terror