TL Diet 2.0/Track Car Build - Roll Cage Pg 51
11-03-2012, 10:51 AM
#1161
Burning Brakes
well the only thing you wanna make sure is the piping length....
if its a SRI, it moves the power band to the lower rpms....CAI moves the power band to the higher rpm.....
SRI is more affected by engine heat as its sitting right behind the engine fan....CAI is isolated and hence can be "heat proofed"
once you have the filter location....feed some nice cool air to it using a *ding ding ding* dryer hose
if its a SRI, it moves the power band to the lower rpms....CAI moves the power band to the higher rpm.....
SRI is more affected by engine heat as its sitting right behind the engine fan....CAI is isolated and hence can be "heat proofed"
once you have the filter location....feed some nice cool air to it using a *ding ding ding* dryer hose
Some cars use variable intake manifolds which use short and long intake runners. From idle to around 4500-5000rpms, the longer runners are utilized. At predetermined rpm, an rpm switch activated vacuum solenoid opens a set of butterfly valves in the intake manifold and the short runners are utilized and the long runners sealed off. Some cars use long runners and a resonance chamber in the intact manifold to create the same short runner air flow effect. Nissan did this in some overseas Maxima intake manifolds which I had on my 96 Maxima. The setup took the motor from completely choking at 5800rpms to breathing well 6700rpms with 95% power sustaining to 7400rpms. That's huge. The car improved 1/4 mile times by .3 seconds and 3mph.
Some cars also use valves in the airboxes to regulate airflow in the low and upper rpms. The last generation Celica GTS used this system.
I experimented quite a bit with CAIs, SRIs, and stock intakes with my Maxima and G35 at the strip. I did tons of 1/4 mile passes with same day testing. The results were the CAI was the lowest (.15 seconds and 1.5mph), the SRI (.1 and 1mph), and stock (the fastest). Just because stock looks ugly, doesn't mean it's necessarily restrictive. I don't know why the V6 in your TLs would behave any differently than the VQ30 and VQ35 V6s in my Nissan cars. They're all so close in design.
11-03-2012, 01:31 PM
#1162
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Larger rotors have more swept area which means they'll dissipate heat far easier. Larger rotors are usually thicker too. They might not necessarily brake better on the street (0-70), but they'll have much better bite from higher speeds and will be able to do so with little to no fade.
Large brakes usually require more heat to work efficiently so it's quite possible that larger brakes will brake worse on the street.
Auto-x cars really don't need larger brakes unless the OEM system is poor. A set of pads is usually all you need. Auto-x speeds don't exceed 70mph and the threshold braking isn't lengthly. Road race cars do need capable larger brakes because they're braking for 140mph+ to 50mph often. That's a ton of friction trying to slow a relatively heavy car that weighs 3,000lbs+.
Larger brakes (rotors, calipers) are much heavier and have way rotational inertia with the weight centered around the worst possible place, the hub. However, it's all a trade-off if you're road racing a car. Tires and brakes are key to any car that sees track duty. The last thing you want is your brakes to fail at 120mph coming into a turn.
70+% of your braking power comes from the front; therefore, adding huge rear brakes isn't completely necessary and can REALLY screw up threshold braking.
Adding larger brakes to a street car can really screw up OEM brake proportioning and can result in some really dangerous braking traits. Many racecars use adjustable proportion valves to adjust braking between the front and rear axles. Street cars have a valve too, but it isn't adjustable. Huge brakes can screw up this OEM proportioning.
Cars like the 3rd gen TL come with electronic brake force distribution (BFD). The BFD system uses ABS and stability control to distribute braking power under threshold braking. Larger brakes can totally screw with this system because the system isn't expecting overly powerful front braking power. This can lead to unexpected initial lock-up at either axle and really weird braking behavior.
Significantly improving braking power and overwhelm your tires. You better make sure you've got sticky rubber or else the brakes will case lock-up.
Long story short, you REALLY need to do your research when it comes to upgrading brakes on a street car. WAY too people throw on big brake kits (BBKs) because they think it looks cool and have no idea they can potentially be making their car brake much worse on the street and even on the track. Most buyers are posers and are solely going for the image of "racecar'. They talk about how much better the pedal feels, but they've never put the brakes through the paces to see if it's really the case.
Remember, what applies to a racecar doesn't not necessarily apply to a street car, even one that sees some track duty. Everything is a compromise. Understand what you're doing. I can't stress that enough.
Large brakes usually require more heat to work efficiently so it's quite possible that larger brakes will brake worse on the street.
Auto-x cars really don't need larger brakes unless the OEM system is poor. A set of pads is usually all you need. Auto-x speeds don't exceed 70mph and the threshold braking isn't lengthly. Road race cars do need capable larger brakes because they're braking for 140mph+ to 50mph often. That's a ton of friction trying to slow a relatively heavy car that weighs 3,000lbs+.
Larger brakes (rotors, calipers) are much heavier and have way rotational inertia with the weight centered around the worst possible place, the hub. However, it's all a trade-off if you're road racing a car. Tires and brakes are key to any car that sees track duty. The last thing you want is your brakes to fail at 120mph coming into a turn.
70+% of your braking power comes from the front; therefore, adding huge rear brakes isn't completely necessary and can REALLY screw up threshold braking.
Adding larger brakes to a street car can really screw up OEM brake proportioning and can result in some really dangerous braking traits. Many racecars use adjustable proportion valves to adjust braking between the front and rear axles. Street cars have a valve too, but it isn't adjustable. Huge brakes can screw up this OEM proportioning.
Cars like the 3rd gen TL come with electronic brake force distribution (BFD). The BFD system uses ABS and stability control to distribute braking power under threshold braking. Larger brakes can totally screw with this system because the system isn't expecting overly powerful front braking power. This can lead to unexpected initial lock-up at either axle and really weird braking behavior.
Significantly improving braking power and overwhelm your tires. You better make sure you've got sticky rubber or else the brakes will case lock-up.
Long story short, you REALLY need to do your research when it comes to upgrading brakes on a street car. WAY too people throw on big brake kits (BBKs) because they think it looks cool and have no idea they can potentially be making their car brake much worse on the street and even on the track. Most buyers are posers and are solely going for the image of "racecar'. They talk about how much better the pedal feels, but they've never put the brakes through the paces to see if it's really the case.
Remember, what applies to a racecar doesn't not necessarily apply to a street car, even one that sees some track duty. Everything is a compromise. Understand what you're doing. I can't stress that enough.
there is soooo much to learn from you buddy....
If the tubing is for air intake, you could also consider using plastic(lighter and doesn't conduct heat like metal). I was thinking about using this 4" airaid UBI(u build it) kit and using a 4"-3" reducer.
http://www.airaid.com/ComingSoonProd...e-dca9a93bd649
http://www.airaid.com/ComingSoonProd...e-dca9a93bd649
This doesn't make much sense. A longer intake tract/runners improve lower rpm power delivery and shorter tract/runners improve upper rpm breathing. Longer runners create turbulence once air flow becomes too high. The exact opposite happens with short runners. Turbulence is created in the low rpms because area is too open and air flow is too slow, basically creating a tumbling effect in intake. Same thing happens with too large of exhaust piping. Once the air flow speeds up, the flow smooths out and volumetric efficiency improves.
Some cars use variable intake manifolds which use short and long intake runners. From idle to around 4500-5000rpms, the longer runners are utilized. At predetermined rpm, an rpm switch activated vacuum solenoid opens a set of butterfly valves in the intake manifold and the short runners are utilized and the long runners sealed off. Some cars use long runners and a resonance chamber in the intact manifold to create the same short runner air flow effect. Nissan did this in some overseas Maxima intake manifolds which I had on my 96 Maxima. The setup took the motor from completely choking at 5800rpms to breathing well 6700rpms with 95% power sustaining to 7400rpms. That's huge. The car improved 1/4 mile times by .3 seconds and 3mph.
Some cars also use valves in the airboxes to regulate airflow in the low and upper rpms. The last generation Celica GTS used this system.
I experimented quite a bit with CAIs, SRIs, and stock intakes with my Maxima and G35 at the strip. I did tons of 1/4 mile passes with same day testing. The results were the CAI was the lowest (.15 seconds and 1.5mph), the SRI (.1 and 1mph), and stock (the fastest). Just because stock looks ugly, doesn't mean it's necessarily restrictive. I don't know why the V6 in your TLs would behave any differently than the VQ30 and VQ35 V6s in my Nissan cars. They're all so close in design.
Some cars use variable intake manifolds which use short and long intake runners. From idle to around 4500-5000rpms, the longer runners are utilized. At predetermined rpm, an rpm switch activated vacuum solenoid opens a set of butterfly valves in the intake manifold and the short runners are utilized and the long runners sealed off. Some cars use long runners and a resonance chamber in the intact manifold to create the same short runner air flow effect. Nissan did this in some overseas Maxima intake manifolds which I had on my 96 Maxima. The setup took the motor from completely choking at 5800rpms to breathing well 6700rpms with 95% power sustaining to 7400rpms. That's huge. The car improved 1/4 mile times by .3 seconds and 3mph.
Some cars also use valves in the airboxes to regulate airflow in the low and upper rpms. The last generation Celica GTS used this system.
I experimented quite a bit with CAIs, SRIs, and stock intakes with my Maxima and G35 at the strip. I did tons of 1/4 mile passes with same day testing. The results were the CAI was the lowest (.15 seconds and 1.5mph), the SRI (.1 and 1mph), and stock (the fastest). Just because stock looks ugly, doesn't mean it's necessarily restrictive. I don't know why the V6 in your TLs would behave any differently than the VQ30 and VQ35 V6s in my Nissan cars. They're all so close in design.
I have seen constantly lower IAT's with the CAI....with my modified SRI setup....Now if you get a simple AEM/KNN SRI then yes the intake temps will be higher than stock....
So far the insulated AEM CAI was best wrt IAT's and my 4" setup is the best wrt power (so far on my car with only butt dyno proof)....and the below video....i get wheelspin when VTEC engages...this is with 60-65% throttle and in 2nd gear....
I am going to try a 4" CAI and hit the dyno....its about time i went there....
11-04-2012, 12:02 PM
#1163
Burning Brakes
Dave i think I wrote that the other way around....
I have seen constantly lower IAT's with the CAI....with my modified SRI setup....Now if you get a simple AEM/KNN SRI then yes the intake temps will be higher than stock....
So far the insulated AEM CAI was best wrt IAT's and my 4" setup is the best wrt power (so far on my car with only butt dyno proof)....and the below video....i get wheelspin when VTEC engages...this is with 60-65% throttle and in 2nd gear....
I am going to try a 4" CAI and hit the dyno....its about time i went there....
I have seen constantly lower IAT's with the CAI....with my modified SRI setup....Now if you get a simple AEM/KNN SRI then yes the intake temps will be higher than stock....
So far the insulated AEM CAI was best wrt IAT's and my 4" setup is the best wrt power (so far on my car with only butt dyno proof)....and the below video....i get wheelspin when VTEC engages...this is with 60-65% throttle and in 2nd gear....
I am going to try a 4" CAI and hit the dyno....its about time i went there....
Has anyone done a volumetic efficency test with the OEM airbox? We learned that the OEM airbox on the G35/350Z could flow 30% more air than the NA bolt-on VQ35 could ever hope of ingesting. The intake was obviously not a restriction.
We learned with the Maxima that the OEM airbox flowed about 15% more air and the in-line intake resonator (Helmhotz design) not only reduced intake sound, but actually was responsible for making about 8whp/10wtq in the midrange. Remove the resonator and you LOST power.
It used to be OEM intakes were really restrictive and gains of power on the cheap were really common. Now most intakes, while terribly ugly looking, aren't restrictive at all and actually improve throttle response and deliver better midrange punch. Lots of aftermarket intakes claim gains of 10-15whp/wtq on THEIR dyno. I'd never trust an aftermarket company's dyno. Most of these parts when put on a 3rd party dyno only show minor gains across the upper parts of the powerband and this is with the hood up which benefits the open intake. Also, these paltry "gains" could also easily be attributed to power variances between back to back dyno runs and corrective factors when trying to compare gains between runs completed on different days.
A gain of 5whp from 5500-6500rpms isn't going to do squat in terms of performance. When you do a average powerband calculation, you'll see that the average power gain is almost non-existent. Don't buy into claims of "gains up to XX hp". You want your mods to elevate the entire powerband, especially the midrange as that's where you spend most of the time accelerating. 5whp spread from 5500-6500rpms isn't going to improve anything because the motor zooms through that range very quickly. Even a gain of 5whp across the entire powerband won't make a measurable difference in 1/4 mile ET or MPH. It took my 2,900lb Maxima an average powerband gain of ~35whp/wtq to improve 1/4 mile ET and MPH by 0.3 seconds and 3mph.
Your best course of action is sticking with something that delivers CONSISTENT performance across at all conditions. CAI and SRI can suck in hot air from either the engine bay or a suffocating, hot air trap in the bumper cover. This can lead to power reductions of 10whp-30whp. Not exactly progress. Above 70 degrees or so, every 10 degree increase in temp will amount to around a loss of 5whp. Imagine the power lost when you SRI is seeing 130+ degree temps sitting in the staging line or at a stoplight.
There's damn good reason why automakers design intakes like they do. It's a HP war out there and automakers aren't going to leave HP on the table with some restrictive intake. They want the most power available, and with Helmhotz resonators, it's possible to have a high flowing intake that's quiet and delivers stellar throttle response.
Always consider what you're doing and why a system is designed the way it is before assuming it's restrictive. Super bright engineers and millions of dollars in investment usually results in very efficent intake designs.
11-04-2012, 01:30 PM
#1164
Team Owner
Larger rotors have more swept area which means they'll dissipate heat far easier. Larger rotors are usually thicker too. They might not necessarily brake better on the street (0-70), but they'll have much better bite from higher speeds and will be able to do so with little to no fade.
Larger brakes (rotors, calipers) are much heavier and have way rotational inertia with the weight centered around the worst possible place, the hub. However, it's all a trade-off if you're road racing a car. Tires and brakes are key to any car that sees track duty. The last thing you want is your brakes to fail at 120mph coming into a turn.
Adding larger brakes to a street car can really screw up OEM brake proportioning and can result in some really dangerous braking traits. Many racecars use adjustable proportion valves to adjust braking between the front and rear axles. Street cars have a valve too, but it isn't adjustable. Huge brakes can screw up this OEM proportioning.
Cars like the 3rd gen TL come with electronic brake force distribution (BFD). The BFD system uses ABS and stability control to distribute braking power under threshold braking. Larger brakes can totally screw with this system because the system isn't expecting overly powerful front braking power. This can lead to unexpected initial lock-up at either axle and really weird braking behavior.
Cars like the 3rd gen TL come with electronic brake force distribution (BFD). The BFD system uses ABS and stability control to distribute braking power under threshold braking. Larger brakes can totally screw with this system because the system isn't expecting overly powerful front braking power. This can lead to unexpected initial lock-up at either axle and really weird braking behavior.
Long story short, you REALLY need to do your research when it comes to upgrading brakes on a street car. WAY too people throw on big brake kits (BBKs) because they think it looks cool and have no idea they can potentially be making their car brake much worse on the street and even on the track. Most buyers are posers and are solely going for the image of "racecar'. They talk about how much better the pedal feels, but they've never put the brakes through the paces to see if it's really the case.
Remember, what applies to a racecar doesn't not necessarily apply to a street car, even one that sees some track duty. Everything is a compromise. Understand what you're doing. I can't stress that enough.
Remember, what applies to a racecar doesn't not necessarily apply to a street car, even one that sees some track duty. Everything is a compromise. Understand what you're doing. I can't stress that enough.
I thought this CAI, SRI, and OEM crap had been settled already. It's been proven that the OEM intake tract with stock filter can flow more than any bolt-in TL can flow. It is not a restriction and it delivers reasonably cool airflow.
It's been measured and proven that SRIs deliver extremely hot air to the engine. Why anyone would use this setup I have no idea.
If the stock tract is not a restriction, how do you think you're getting more power from a higher flowing intake tract?
Last, anything before the TB, that includes filters, pipes, whatever absolutely can not and will not change the powerband. Exhaust can, intake cannot. If this were true, the car would have crazy torque with the throttle closed and the engine at idle.
I just saw the rest of the posts on this and the brake subject and I need to walk away, there's hours worth of misinformation to clear up. Thankfully Dave cleared a lot of it up already.
Last edited by Steven Bell; 11-04-2012 at 02:04 PM.
11-04-2012, 06:26 PM
#1167
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Dave/IHC,
I wish someone would dyno the stock airbox and then swap over to a CAI and dyno the same day with the CAI....Great post on the brakes from both of you....really informative....
Villo,
Pix or BS
I wish someone would dyno the stock airbox and then swap over to a CAI and dyno the same day with the CAI....Great post on the brakes from both of you....really informative....
Villo,
Pix or BS
11-04-2012, 07:35 PM
#1170
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the heaviest thing in your trunk i think is the licence plate holder....remove it and even on shitty trunk springs closing the trunk is a "chore"....
the trunk itself is not too heavy considering its size
the trunk itself is not too heavy considering its size
11-04-2012, 07:39 PM
#1171
Pro
First I'd like to say I'm not an engineer. However I did have a mechanic tell me the following. Yes the stock intake does flow a lot of air. The volume of air isn't always the problem. The stock intake creates a lot of turbulence. If you smooth this out you gain power. In some cases a larger intake alone will give gains. Our cars are great examples of that.
11-05-2012, 12:14 AM
#1172
Team Owner
now unless they were thinking of upgrading to a different setup completely (AP Racing/Project mu/etc) then it will help with brake fade but if they get the same pads/rotors in a bigger size, they will be carrying down more weight and experiencing fade as well....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fade
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fade
Rex/Peter am going to be thinking out loud here....
was having a discussion with Justin on gtalk on how to reduce brake fade....
he was telling about bigger rotors but here is my take on it...
bigger rotors hence bigger pads = more surface area = more friction = more heat....granted it will slow you down quicker but i think it will fade more....on the flip side, bigger rotors = more internal vanes = more heat dissipation...
was having a discussion with Justin on gtalk on how to reduce brake fade....
he was telling about bigger rotors but here is my take on it...
bigger rotors hence bigger pads = more surface area = more friction = more heat....granted it will slow you down quicker but i think it will fade more....on the flip side, bigger rotors = more internal vanes = more heat dissipation...
well the only thing you wanna make sure is the piping length....
if its a SRI, it moves the power band to the lower rpms....CAI moves the power band to the higher rpm.....
SRI is more affected by engine heat as its sitting right behind the engine fan....CAI is isolated and hence can be "heat proofed"
once you have the filter location....feed some nice cool air to it using a *ding ding ding* dryer hose
if its a SRI, it moves the power band to the lower rpms....CAI moves the power band to the higher rpm.....
SRI is more affected by engine heat as its sitting right behind the engine fan....CAI is isolated and hence can be "heat proofed"
once you have the filter location....feed some nice cool air to it using a *ding ding ding* dryer hose
I've measured vacuum in the stock intake tract and there's nothing. The stock intake tract is not a restriction with a stock filter and 30,000 miles on it. If it's not a restriction, there are zero gains to be made. Think of the millions of dollars in the engine design such as cam profile, head design, vtec, dual runner intake manifold, premium fuel requirement due to the 11:1 compression. Honda is not going to leave a single hp on the table due to a restrictive inlet tract.
Exhaust tuning can move the powerband around slightly. Anything in the intake tract before the throttle body absolutely can not change the powerband or part throttle power, especially not pipe length. There is no "tuning" before the throttlebody. After the throttlebody the air goes into a plenum which is designed to be big enough that each runner gets an equal share of air without interference from the other. The real tuning starts at the intake manifold runners.
Remember, the throttlebody is a butterfly valve that sits in the air stream and it's only purpose in life is the restrict airflow. It's mostly closed most of the time. At 3/4 throttle it's 3/4 of the way open and it's a MUCH larger restriction than anything before it like a filter or a pipe. Only at or near full throttle will intake flow mods begin increasing hp, when the throttle is fully open and no longer a restriction and when airflow is the greatest. This is why it's absolutely impossible for intake tract mods to affect the powerband and to do much of anything below full throttle.
The most important aspect of an air intake system is to get the coldest air possible into the engine. Colder air will make more power at any throttle opening and rpm and the gains are linear. The measured stock inlet temps are pretty low, far below the underhood temps. Under no conditions will a SRI make more power than a CAI or stock unless the CAI is restrictive which is not going to happen short of a turbo. In this thread, the owner experienced 10-15 degree rise in IAT over ambient with a CAI. With the SRI it was 45 to 50, peaking at 60 degrees. You know the difference in the way your car feels on a 40 degree day vs a 90 degree day, it's huge. https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/experiments-air-intake-temperatures-868353/
All you need in a CAI is the air inlet outside of the engine bay and a 3-3.5" pipe. It doesn't matter where. It can be behind the bumper, the wheel-well, behind the grill, or on top of the roof. It's all going to be the same hp wise. The shortest amount of piping would be the best though. Pick whatever fits the best or easiest. If possible keep the filter in the engine bay enclosed, it's less susceptible to damage and you can design the pre-filter inlet tract with dust and water traps, greatly extending filter life and cleanings and nearly eliminating the chance of hydrolocking. Wrapping isn't really necessary, the air flows much too fast to pick up any real heat through it.
Last edited by I hate cars; 11-05-2012 at 12:16 AM.
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11-05-2012, 10:06 AM
#1173
Burning Brakes
I hate cars - I pretty much agree with everything you said about the brakes. You've obviously done your homework and know how to put together a quality setup. My post was geared more towards those guys that blindly buy parts and don't do the appropiate research and don't really understand what they're doing. It's the whole, bigger is better thing, whether it's overly large brake setups or 4" intakes.
11-05-2012, 11:54 AM
#1174
IHC is like an encyclopedia of knowledge. I feel wiser having just read these posts.
Just popped in here to say I did my first autocross yesterday and had a great time. Willow is definitely more exciting (faster!) and you get a lot more track time. 2 hours of track time at Willow versus like 10 mins of track time at autocross. So yea...it was still fun though.
Just popped in here to say I did my first autocross yesterday and had a great time. Willow is definitely more exciting (faster!) and you get a lot more track time. 2 hours of track time at Willow versus like 10 mins of track time at autocross. So yea...it was still fun though.
11-05-2012, 12:02 PM
#1175
Oh this guy smacked a pole with his RSX. It happened around noon and they decided to change the course design. I guess it pays to run later in the day as I got to run on the "fixed" course.
Hard to see in the pic but the entire rear end of the car is shifted over. The panels on the opposite side are bent out slightly. I talked to him for a bit and he was still quite jovial having just totaled his car lol. Real nice guy.
Hard to see in the pic but the entire rear end of the car is shifted over. The panels on the opposite side are bent out slightly. I talked to him for a bit and he was still quite jovial having just totaled his car lol. Real nice guy.
Last edited by AnthraciteAspec; 11-05-2012 at 12:04 PM.
11-05-2012, 12:13 PM
#1177
I switched to Brembos but never tracked with the old auto calipers. I have to assume after reading all of IHC posts that my Brembos are definitely helping on the track. I am sure the stock auto brakes would have faded fast on Big Willow.
11-05-2012, 01:47 PM
#1178
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This thread needs to be STICKIED !!!
so much info in here...
EDIT: Villio I use the SS mode, 100% of the time unless the wifey wants to hold my hand
so much info in here...
EDIT: Villio I use the SS mode, 100% of the time unless the wifey wants to hold my hand
11-05-2012, 04:26 PM
#1179
that'd be sweet!I hope we've settled the intake and brake discussion for now....
I started planning and working on my new front splitter setup this past weekend, not much to show just yet but if I can't stand on the splitter with little to no flex than I'm starting over lol
for instance -
Last edited by vill0169; 11-05-2012 at 04:37 PM.
11-05-2012, 05:12 PM
#1180
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can you make 2 at the same time? it will be easier
11-05-2012, 07:39 PM
#1182
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^^^ you read my mind Rex 
11-05-2012, 07:42 PM
#1183
Team Owner
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Hey, what's wrong with moving to Kansas City????
11-06-2012, 08:08 AM
#1185
Forget to mention I ordered up some solid shifter base bushings over the weekend and am going to try and "raise" the shifter up a bit with a small spacer at the same time. Hopefully adds a little bit more of a solid feel and brings the shift knob up a bit. should have them sometime this week.
11-08-2012, 08:22 PM
#1189
Most of the new hardware
The bolts I got were a little long so I'll have to buy a tad shorter ones over the weekend but here it is all buttoned down.
You can see the increased height here, could probably go a bit higher but I don't want to over stress the shift cables too much
And I thought it'd be funny and fitting to run these on the car being it's kinda the skunkworks of the TL lol
The bolts I got were a little long so I'll have to buy a tad shorter ones over the weekend but here it is all buttoned down.
You can see the increased height here, could probably go a bit higher but I don't want to over stress the shift cables too much
And I thought it'd be funny and fitting to run these on the car being it's kinda the skunkworks of the TL lol
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11-10-2012, 04:54 PM
#1191
The Track Terror
Those guys are effin' crazy...he almost totally nailed that civic that was coming back on the track in the last vid...and his tires were squealin' worse than a stuck pig in the first vid!
11-11-2012, 05:21 PM
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damn those videos are awesome....
Rex/Peter....you got some more pix of the THR TL? specs on it?
Rex/Peter....you got some more pix of the THR TL? specs on it?
11-11-2012, 06:01 PM
#1196
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well basically the engine mods, exhaust (
), weight, etc etc
), weight, etc etc
11-11-2012, 06:13 PM
#1197
Exhaust was comptech. engine mods weren't that extreme really, I think intake and exhaust was mostly it. ecu was remapped by the manufacturer and it had some sort of lightweight clutch/flywheel on it too.
weight was somewhere in the 2800lb range.
weight was somewhere in the 2800lb range.
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swoosh (11-11-2012)
11-11-2012, 06:13 PM
#1198
takin care of Business in
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the downshifts were just
11-12-2012, 11:43 AM
#1200
Forget to mention I ordered up some solid shifter base bushings over the weekend and am going to try and "raise" the shifter up a bit with a small spacer at the same time. Hopefully adds a little bit more of a solid feel and brings the shift knob up a bit. should have them sometime this week.
where they the corsport ones? I am trying to make my own but wasnt sure if I should go aluminum/metal or rubber/poly .... I am on a macguyeverd setup now with rubber just because i needed to raise ths base... but need to figure out something permanent this weekend.. thoughts?