TL Diet 2.0/Track Car Build - Roll Cage Pg 51
09-03-2012, 08:31 AM
#921
I think a PNP'd new IM and TB is possible, would it be stupid to run that without the JR ECU? Only reason I ask is because I take a lot of points for a modified ECU and wouldn't mind avoiding it if possible.
Anything extreme is kinda out for me (like dual TB's) just cuz I still want to compete with the car and it'd be a nightmare to get classed correctly with a lot of those mods.
Anything extreme is kinda out for me (like dual TB's) just cuz I still want to compete with the car and it'd be a nightmare to get classed correctly with a lot of those mods.
09-03-2012, 12:53 PM
#922
Instructor
I think a PNP'd new IM and TB is possible, would it be stupid to run that without the JR ECU? Only reason I ask is because I take a lot of points for a modified ECU and wouldn't mind avoiding it if possible.
Anything extreme is kinda out for me (like dual TB's) just cuz I still want to compete with the car and it'd be a nightmare to get classed correctly with a lot of those mods.
Anything extreme is kinda out for me (like dual TB's) just cuz I still want to compete with the car and it'd be a nightmare to get classed correctly with a lot of those mods.
09-03-2012, 02:18 PM
#923
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The stock ECU can compensate for the PnP intake.
09-03-2012, 03:38 PM
#924
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I think a PNP'd new IM and TB is possible, would it be stupid to run that without the JR ECU? Only reason I ask is because I take a lot of points for a modified ECU and wouldn't mind avoiding it if possible.
Anything extreme is kinda out for me (like dual TB's) just cuz I still want to compete with the car and it'd be a nightmare to get classed correctly with a lot of those mods.
Anything extreme is kinda out for me (like dual TB's) just cuz I still want to compete with the car and it'd be a nightmare to get classed correctly with a lot of those mods.
Bigger intake filter (more surface area)
Bored TB
Ported and polished Manifold
Ported and polished runners
You can actually even port and polish your heads and still be ok without a manifold....another thing i would do is the Type S cams....
you will benefit the most from header work if you have an ECU but you can still pull out a lot of HP/TQ from the above mentioned options...
09-03-2012, 07:39 PM
#925
yes you can do all the bolt ons without the ECU...
Bigger intake filter (more surface area)
Bored TB
Ported and polished Manifold
Ported and polished runners
You can actually even port and polish your heads and still be ok without a manifold....another thing i would do is the Type S cams....
you will benefit the most from header work if you have an ECU but you can still pull out a lot of HP/TQ from the above mentioned options...
Bigger intake filter (more surface area)
Bored TB
Ported and polished Manifold
Ported and polished runners
You can actually even port and polish your heads and still be ok without a manifold....another thing i would do is the Type S cams....
you will benefit the most from header work if you have an ECU but you can still pull out a lot of HP/TQ from the above mentioned options...
Yeah I would like to do PNP'd everything including the MDX spacer I have. Has it been shown what the TL-S cams are worth on a J32 with no ecu?
Question: Has anyone ever ported and polished the exhaust "chamber" on the head where the PCD bolts up? It looks like there's plenty of material there to at least do something.
09-03-2012, 10:25 PM
#926
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Yeah I would like to do PNP'd everything including the MDX spacer I have. Has it been shown what the TL-S cams are worth on a J32 with no ecu?
Question: Has anyone ever ported and polished the exhaust "chamber" on the head where the PCD bolts up? It looks like there's plenty of material there to at least do something.
Question: Has anyone ever ported and polished the exhaust "chamber" on the head where the PCD bolts up? It looks like there's plenty of material there to at least do something.
Andy went all the way and put bisi stage 2 cams on the car without a tune and it did gain him quite a lot....after the ECU and tune his base was a monster....so am only guessing the bisi stage 1 or the hollow and aggressive type S cams will do well on your(any base) car....
finally, yes that is the port and polish job on the heads....a 3 angle intake, 5 angle exhaust job with razor cut edges along with higher psi springs and retainers and aftermarket valves will benefit you much....if you do this and ECU and tune and cams....you can lift the rev limiter and redline at 8K rpm....all the power
well that is atleast my plan LOL along with a stroker 3.6L build
09-04-2012, 09:52 AM
#928
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^^^ well that only happens when you port and polish your runners/manifold....the mdx spacer creates turbulence inside....now if we could slice the spacer in 2, i think it will be just perfect....
and for the way you run, you should already be sponsored....have you reached out to someone?
and for the way you run, you should already be sponsored....have you reached out to someone?
09-04-2012, 10:13 AM
#929
Yeah a bit but it usually seems to fall through for some reason or another. Even my STI team has difficulties finding sponsors.
Another idea I'm really considering is adding a relocted oil filter with temp and pressure gauges and an oil cooler. My water temps never exceed 210 but I would like to start monitoring my oil as well and see where it runs usually.
Another idea I'm really considering is adding a relocted oil filter with temp and pressure gauges and an oil cooler. My water temps never exceed 210 but I would like to start monitoring my oil as well and see where it runs usually.
09-04-2012, 11:06 AM
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^^^ yeah oil temp is something which i think the ECU should monitor but am not sure if it does....i know it does monitor the fuel pressure....
09-04-2012, 11:36 AM
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^^^ slap me now please....
i meant fuel flow....i forget the units but the Torque app has it in gallons/minute and this is off the OBDII port
i meant fuel flow....i forget the units but the Torque app has it in gallons/minute and this is off the OBDII port
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gerzand (09-04-2012)
09-05-2012, 09:40 AM
#936
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^^^ dont we all wish the same 
09-06-2012, 07:37 AM
#937
Thinking about hitting up my local track in a couple weeks and doing some aero testing now that I have the Aim Solo. Thinking of at least doing a session with and without the splitter/wing and see if there is any noticable difference between the lap times. This lap timer is just amazing and gives some incredible data that I'm sure you'll all enjoy. I just hope my hoosiers hold up to few more track days. we'll see......
09-06-2012, 09:19 AM
#938
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am very eager to see this....i am considering doing some aerodynamic mods....
09-06-2012, 10:00 AM
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can you hit a lap with the splitter/diffuser and without the wing 
that will be the setup i would be running most prolly...
that will be the setup i would be running most prolly...
09-06-2012, 10:49 AM
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perfect....
coz am not sure if i will throw a wing on there but am definitely gonna install a diffuser + splitter soon....
coz am not sure if i will throw a wing on there but am definitely gonna install a diffuser + splitter soon....
09-07-2012, 10:48 AM
#944
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^^^ well depends....
the Richie V3 makes more power in the lower part of the power band due to the longer primaries....the ATLP V2 moves the power band up....
I think if you get the V3 and have a 3" merge collector in there you will make the most of the jpipe....and the 3" pipe will flow perfectly with the 3" exhaust you have...
the Richie V3 makes more power in the lower part of the power band due to the longer primaries....the ATLP V2 moves the power band up....
I think if you get the V3 and have a 3" merge collector in there you will make the most of the jpipe....and the 3" pipe will flow perfectly with the 3" exhaust you have...
09-07-2012, 12:37 PM
#946
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check this video out:
so the mid end is the same in both....the only time you will see a difference is you take it to your exhaust guy and ask em to make a 3" merge collector with a venturi tube....and then a 3" exhaust....
you will def see a lot more tq/hp from the low end all the way to top end by that....
you can also do an exhaust cut out/dump like Andy (gerzand) has done...\
will reply to your PM after lunch
so the mid end is the same in both....the only time you will see a difference is you take it to your exhaust guy and ask em to make a 3" merge collector with a venturi tube....and then a 3" exhaust....
you will def see a lot more tq/hp from the low end all the way to top end by that....
you can also do an exhaust cut out/dump like Andy (gerzand) has done...\
will reply to your PM after lunch
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Morrissey25 (09-08-2012)
09-07-2012, 04:33 PM
#948
Team Owner
If you go with one, the best thing you can do is make it easily adjustable, preferably on the fly to where it can be retracted below certain speeds and automatically lower at freeway speeds. It's ineffective at city speeds anyway and many aero mods don't do a whole lot until you're near triple digits. I would shoot for zero lift and call it a day. Vent the fender wells, reduce airflow under the car, reduce airflow around the radiator, done.
09-08-2012, 04:45 PM
#949
Whats up with RDX owners?
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If you go with one, the best thing you can do is make it easily adjustable, preferably on the fly to where it can be retracted below certain speeds and automatically lower at freeway speeds. It's ineffective at city speeds anyway and many aero mods don't do a whole lot until you're near triple digits. I would shoot for zero lift and call it a day. Vent the fender wells, reduce airflow under the car, reduce airflow around the radiator, done.
Similar to the front air dam "wings" on the 458...I wonder if its easy enough to mimic something like that on a splitter - without spending a crap load of money on it. The 458 uses the force of the air to force the wings down to increase downforce, so there won't be any need for actuators or anything like that that could potentially fail. It might be an avenue to explore 
09-08-2012, 05:39 PM
#950
Team Owner
Similar to the front air dam "wings" on the 458...I wonder if its easy enough to mimic something like that on a splitter - without spending a crap load of money on it. The 458 uses the force of the air to force the wings down to increase downforce, so there won't be any need for actuators or anything like that that could potentially fail. It might be an avenue to explore I think the material would have to be really light. I can only imagine if the springs are weak enough that the wind can overcome them, if the splitter is too heavy, it will be bouncing up and down as it goes over bumps. Carbon fiber or something similar would probably be a good idea to keep it up when it needs to be up where only the wind can bring it down.
Last edited by I hate cars; 09-08-2012 at 05:49 PM.
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civicdrivr (09-08-2012)
09-08-2012, 08:57 PM
#951
Started making a mount for my new Aim Solo GPS lap timer today. Hopefully get it wrapped up tomorrow so it'll be ready for the local track day coming up in a couple weeks. Thing has so many features to offer, both in real time on track and in analysis post session it's amazing! Certainly lucky to have it!
09-09-2012, 05:23 PM
#952
So Swoosh or anyone really...
Has anyone made up the full parts list for the 3.7L IM/TB setup? More for the necessary hardware and smaller bits aside from the IM/Cover/TB which are givens. Just thinking about doing it but if I'm ditching my IM Spacer, I'll need to go back down to the shorter studs and whatnot. Just want to make sure I don't miss anything if I choose to order the parts. Thanks.
Has anyone made up the full parts list for the 3.7L IM/TB setup? More for the necessary hardware and smaller bits aside from the IM/Cover/TB which are givens. Just thinking about doing it but if I'm ditching my IM Spacer, I'll need to go back down to the shorter studs and whatnot. Just want to make sure I don't miss anything if I choose to order the parts. Thanks.
09-09-2012, 05:46 PM
#953
Anybody using these? Seems like a good product/design but pretty spendy...
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/fastline-...x-tl-tl-s.html
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/fastline-...x-tl-tl-s.html
09-10-2012, 09:59 AM
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A splitter on a street driven car is not a good idea. If it's low enough to be effective, you're going to be running into parking stoppers, gutters, things you never paid attention to before. For the street, tacking on to the factory splash guard, making it closer to the ground is pretty effective, it's not as far forward, and it's ok if it scrapes. So it has some advantages such as durability and it's pretty effective at keeping air out from under the car. The downside is the air will have to go up through the radiator, engine bay, and out of the cowl instead of around the front end. It's a compromise but a functioning splitter on the street is going to be a nightmare.
If you go with one, the best thing you can do is make it easily adjustable, preferably on the fly to where it can be retracted below certain speeds and automatically lower at freeway speeds. It's ineffective at city speeds anyway and many aero mods don't do a whole lot until you're near triple digits. I would shoot for zero lift and call it a day. Vent the fender wells, reduce airflow under the car, reduce airflow around the radiator, done.
If you go with one, the best thing you can do is make it easily adjustable, preferably on the fly to where it can be retracted below certain speeds and automatically lower at freeway speeds. It's ineffective at city speeds anyway and many aero mods don't do a whole lot until you're near triple digits. I would shoot for zero lift and call it a day. Vent the fender wells, reduce airflow under the car, reduce airflow around the radiator, done.
) between the car and the parking stopper.....but those are some great suggestions....now you got me thinking around the lines of the Home Depot lip and the factory splash guard....the home depot lip will restrict some air from getting under the car since its kinda rigid and the factory splash guard will further restrict the air from getting under the car....
another good thing about the factory guard is "cooling"....I took that off couple months back and my underhood temps have been constantly higher....
will let you know how it goes IHC
So Swoosh or anyone really...
Has anyone made up the full parts list for the 3.7L IM/TB setup? More for the necessary hardware and smaller bits aside from the IM/Cover/TB which are givens. Just thinking about doing it but if I'm ditching my IM Spacer, I'll need to go back down to the shorter studs and whatnot. Just want to make sure I don't miss anything if I choose to order the parts. Thanks.
Has anyone made up the full parts list for the 3.7L IM/TB setup? More for the necessary hardware and smaller bits aside from the IM/Cover/TB which are givens. Just thinking about doing it but if I'm ditching my IM Spacer, I'll need to go back down to the shorter studs and whatnot. Just want to make sure I don't miss anything if I choose to order the parts. Thanks.
16400-RKG-A01 2011 TL SHAWD Qty:1 - Throttle Body (includes MAP sensor, Oring washer, etc)
95701-08060-08 2011 TL SHAWD Qty: 4 - Throttle Body Bolts
17140-RK1-A01 2011 TL SHAWD Qty: 1 - Intake Manifold Cover (includes Bypass Valve, Bore Plate, etc)
17160-RK2-A00 2011 TL SHAWD Qty 1 - Intake Manifold
17181-RCJ-A00 - 2011 TL SHAWD Qty 1 - EGR Pipe
92900-06014-0B - 2011 TL SHAWD Qty 2 - Bolts
95701-06035-08 - 2011 TL SHAWD Qty 2 - Bolts
95701-08065-08 - 2011 TL SHAWD Qty 7 - Bolts
90104-RCJ-A00 - 2011 TL SHAWD Qty 10 - Bolts
90201-P8E-A00 - 2011 TL SHAWD Qty 2 - Nuts
94050-08080 - 2011 TL SHAWD Qty 2 - Nuts
All the nuts and bolts from the 3G TL will fit the 2012 manifold but I ordered them to be on the safer side....
Grab the coupon code link from my sig, email Tim @ AcuraOEMparts and tell him swoosh send ya....he hooked me up with this order
09-10-2012, 01:40 PM
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you're welcome buddy....replying to all PM's now 
09-10-2012, 01:58 PM
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btw wanted to ask you something....you still have your old driver side OEM seat brackets?
09-10-2012, 04:36 PM
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