TL Diet 2.0/Track Car Build - Roll Cage Pg 51

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Old 11-27-2012 | 07:34 PM
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Removing that sound deadening looks like a pain in the ass. Props to you guys for doing it though.

Just saw the pics of that ILX also, that thing is pretty freakin sweet!
Old 11-27-2012 | 09:30 PM
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updated pics, have the drivers side just about ready for paint...

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comparing left to right sides as far as progress goes.
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contemplating on what I should do with the "glue" type stuff Acura used to more or less weld the different metal pieces together. Ideally I'd like to grind it away and actually weld it, but it would certainly add more time and work to the project. Anybody have any insight as to how structurally important that glue stuff is and ways to remove/replace it with an actual weld?
Old 11-27-2012 | 09:40 PM
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the weld needed to replace that bond would be a continuous bead and weigh as much as the glue more than likely.
I think this is stiffer too.

Last edited by pohljm; 11-27-2012 at 09:42 PM.
Old 11-27-2012 | 09:49 PM
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yeah it would definitely need a full bead but I doubt it would weight as much as the glue, it's pretty dense stuff. I would just like the weld over the glue because the glue is pretty thick and I find gets in the way.

Pretty sure I won't have the time/ambition to go that route anytime soon.
Old 11-28-2012 | 09:56 AM
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You are referring to the sealant right? I thought that is there to protect from the elements, not to weld the metal together? Isn't that what the spot welds do? Removing all the sealant and getting it stitch welded and painted would be nice. That is just so much time and money for what you get. I would think only for real competition cars with sponsors.

I have removed .5-1 lb of extra sealant from my car. Mainly from trunk and back seat. I used an exacto knife and felt dremel brush attachments.
Old 11-28-2012 | 09:43 PM
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Vill....that is not glue. It is called seam sealer. It is just for corrosion resistance. The metal panels are spot welded together. Google seam sealer to learn more. Removing it will not cause any problems whatsoever.
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Old 11-29-2012 | 08:29 AM
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cool beans then, I'll take it out as I come across it.
Old 11-29-2012 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by vill0169
IMO that's totally an autox thing with the torque steer. On a real track at real speeds I've never been concerned with torque steer and leaving the VSA on while road racing is really foolish, it'll burn up the rear brakes so quickly you wouldn't believe it.
Yea thats true. I had a lot of torque steer last time although I wasnt running sticky tires. I swapped for some sumitumos so I'm sure it'll be better next time
Old 11-29-2012 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jpm3071
Yea thats true. I had a lot of torque steer last time although I wasnt running sticky tires. I swapped for some sumitumos so I'm sure it'll be better next time
Sticky tires would make torque steer the same or worse since the tires are gripping more.
Old 11-30-2012 | 03:17 PM
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Wanted to ask if you ever considered a front wing or hood wing?

For a hood wing there is this one on a euro accord for time attack.
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/f...r/viewall.html



For a front wing just look up (fwing 2.0).

Last edited by brian6speed; 11-30-2012 at 03:21 PM.
Old 11-30-2012 | 03:53 PM
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the first pic (hood wing) looks good and seems functional

the second pic (front wing) is its a short cut to get perma-banned on Azine
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Old 11-30-2012 | 08:05 PM
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Laugh at the front wing on the Scion all you want, Chris Rados old Tc (black 1st gen with a front wing) holds numerous Unlimited FWD track records. The silver one is his new car, not sure what the status is.
Old 11-30-2012 | 08:39 PM
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Yeah thats a bit over the top for me. Big difference in big budget unlimited time attack and anything i'm doing anytime soon. Big splitter is in the works for me and that'll do me just fine.
Old 11-30-2012 | 09:29 PM
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I have seen the front wing before and while I know it is functional, it just looks so wrong.
Old 11-30-2012 | 10:23 PM
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Now the headlight duct on the euro accord on the other hand....that is something i'm looking into.
Old 12-08-2012 | 09:15 PM
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Where's everybody been lately???!!! lol Finished up the front floor wells today and am just some more cleaning away from getting some paint on everything and making it look purdy and light again. Pics aren't great but can at least show you the newly found bare metal under all that sound deadening.

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This section of sealer over the exhaust tunnel was the biggest pain in the ass yet, made such a mess taking it all off but no more massive bead of goo there anymore.

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Hopefully will have time for paint sooner than later.
Old 12-09-2012 | 05:27 AM
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Awesome progress...


You going to cut that inner door skin off the passenger door too? To match the driver side.
Old 12-09-2012 | 08:53 AM
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Yeah i just need to get more room on that side of my garage to do it. But yeah, certainly not leaving weight on the car if i can help it.
Old 12-10-2012 | 03:35 PM
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awaiting post paint pix
Old 12-10-2012 | 06:54 PM
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Would be a good time to weld in a cage and paint all at once.

On a side note do you carry a fire extinguisher in the car?

Last edited by brian6speed; 12-10-2012 at 07:08 PM.
Old 12-10-2012 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by brian6speed
Would be a good time to weld in a cage and paint all at once.

On a side note do you carry a fire extinguisher in the car?
Yep, that's kinda why I've been working towards. And yes, I carry a small extinguisher just behind the shifter.
Old 12-10-2012 | 07:12 PM
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Do you plan on ever making/using front bumper canards?
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Old 12-10-2012 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by brian6speed
Do you plan on ever making/using front bumper canards?

I'm not sure, many aero articles will say if done poorly, canards will cause more harm than good. Plus they are most efficient if the top of the canard is level with the center of the wheel which would be pretty hard to do on a TL without extending the front bumper lower. So the verdict is still out on that for me I guess.
Old 12-11-2012 | 10:24 AM
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wow awesome,thanks for sharing
Old 12-11-2012 | 12:05 PM
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cage + paint + canards

cage + paint + canards

I have it in there twice coz the 2nd one is for my car
Old 12-11-2012 | 12:12 PM
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cage + paint + new splitter + new wing + moar power


for me anyways lol
Old 12-11-2012 | 12:33 PM
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^^^ imma sub the wing for canards and add a rear diffuser....i might have couple surprises for you....lets see how it works and lets plan to meet sometime in spring
Old 12-11-2012 | 01:00 PM
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what's the reason for the canards? and surprises? I can't keep a surprise from anyone around here!
Old 12-11-2012 | 01:11 PM
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^^^ a friend and I found a place that makes very decently priced diffuser....
Old 12-11-2012 | 10:23 PM
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I noticed in your pics you are using the stock pedals. Have you thought about installing racing pedals?

For my car I am using the autovation lightweight racing pedals. For the clutch and brake you remove the rubber covers and drill holes to mount. For my gas pedal I just drilled into the rubber. It definitely gives a better feel and better grip. They also make heel-toe easier.

Autovation doesn't have a listing for the 3rd gen tl, but it looks like the tsx ones would be the same. If not you can send them a template/measurements to make a set.

http://www.autovationparts.com/store/page83.html
Old 12-12-2012 | 12:17 AM
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why dont you take this time to tack weld the chassis and make it stiffer?
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Old 12-12-2012 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by brian6speed
I noticed in your pics you are using the stock pedals. Have you thought about installing racing pedals?

For my car I am using the autovation lightweight racing pedals. For the clutch and brake you remove the rubber covers and drill holes to mount. For my gas pedal I just drilled into the rubber. It definitely gives a better feel and better grip. They also make heel-toe easier.

Autovation doesn't have a listing for the 3rd gen tl, but it looks like the tsx ones would be the same. If not you can send them a template/measurements to make a set.

http://www.autovationparts.com/store/page83.html
I don't have any real gripes with the stock pedals other than the gas pedal being hinged from the bottom. But i'm not about go changing something that works just fine for me. As for grip, I already got some grip tape and I think I'll just take the rubber covers off and put some on and see how I like it.

Originally Posted by phee
why dont you take this time to tack weld the chassis and make it stiffer?
really thinking about it, just have lots of other projects to get done too.
Old 12-13-2012 | 11:49 AM
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Stitch welded chassis for the win. Its prepped for it....
Old 12-15-2012 | 10:30 AM
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started experimenting with stitch welding yesterday and on my second bead I ran out of wire on my welder! damnit.
Old 12-25-2012 | 10:14 AM
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Merry Christmas AZ!

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Old 01-04-2013 | 06:25 PM
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Oh on Oh no what oh what could I have done?!?!?!

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Old 01-04-2013 | 07:50 PM
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I knew that would come out....that is heavy as fawk....

the only reason I still have that is because of weight balance....the TL stock is 62-38 weight distro....with the rear seats and everything from the rear coming out, its makes the nose heavier....my car as it sits was around 68-32 until I started ripping the weight from the nose and not its back to stock distribution....i would like it to be 55-45 someday
Old 01-04-2013 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
I knew that would come out....that is heavy as fawk....

the only reason I still have that is because of weight balance....the TL stock is 62-38 weight distro....with the rear seats and everything from the rear coming out, its makes the nose heavier....my car as it sits was around 68-32 until I started ripping the weight from the nose and not its back to stock distribution....i would like it to be 55-45 someday
Take the easy way out, drop a 300lb anvil in your trunk!
Old 01-04-2013 | 08:03 PM
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Old 01-04-2013 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by NavS
Take the easy way out, drop a 300lb anvil in your trunk!
if anvil equaled downforce from a rear wing than you're right on lol



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