Acura: TLX News

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Old 12-10-2014, 04:38 PM
  #11161  
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Originally Posted by skd2k1
I've owned a 1993 m3 in 2011 actually. try again.
Much niche. Many awesome. Because race car.
Old 12-10-2014, 04:39 PM
  #11162  
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Originally Posted by TacoBello
Much niche. Much awesome. Because race car.
you do realize there was no m3 in '93, right? good work.
Old 12-10-2014, 04:45 PM
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???

1993 BMW M3 E36 information summary

What body style?
fixed-head coupé with 2+2 seats
How long?
4433 mm
How heavy?
1460 kg
What size engine?
3 litre, 2990 cm3
How many cylinders?
6, Straight
How much power?
286 PS / 281.6 bhp / 210 kW @ 7000 rpm
How much torque?
320 Nm / 236 ft.lb / 32.6 kgm @ 3600 rpm
How quick?
0-60 mph: 5.40 s
How quick?
0-100 km/h: 6.00 s
How fast?
250 km/h, 155 mph
How economical?
6.5/7.9/13.0 l/100km 90 km/h / 120 km/h / Urban DIN
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Old 12-10-2014, 04:46 PM
  #11164  
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Originally Posted by skd2k1
you do realize there was no m3 in '93, right? good work.
Wow, you really missed the joke on that one didn't you?

And I'm pretty sure we had them, at least here in Canada.
Old 12-10-2014, 04:48 PM
  #11165  
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Thanks, oonowindoo!!
Old 12-10-2014, 04:51 PM
  #11166  
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Originally Posted by oonowindoo
???
Originally Posted by TacoBello
Wow, you really missed the joke on that one didn't you?

And I'm pretty sure we had them, at least here in Canada.
I stand corrected. didn't realize those were around as early as 92.
Old 12-10-2014, 04:55 PM
  #11167  
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Was the European-spec version of the three-liter E36 M3 ever sold in North America?
Yes. Through an agreement that existed between Canada and several European nations, any car federalized in one country could legally be sold in any of the others. With no North American version of the E36 M3 on the horizon in late 1993, BMW Canada took advantage of this agreement and imported 45 European-spec M3 coupes for the 1994 model year. Pulled at random off the standard assembly line during November and December of 1993, these cars were specially-fitted with a third brake light and daytime running lights (required by Canadian law), while the rear fog light was deleted. Each car also received a numbered plaque on the inside of the glovebox door.
You people in Canada should see if you can get the used Euro Spec E36 M3.... E46 engine in E36.....
Old 12-10-2014, 04:56 PM
  #11168  
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Originally Posted by skd2k1
I stand corrected. didn't realize those were around as early as 1985.
Old 12-10-2014, 04:57 PM
  #11169  
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Originally Posted by AZuser
we're talking e36 here.
Old 12-10-2014, 05:06 PM
  #11170  
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TIL, sdkwhatever doesn't even understand the word niche or much about the cars he's allegedly owned.


But idk, driving a salvage titled 1993 M3 with 200,000 miles on the odometer in 2011 would be pretty niche.

Last edited by MeehowsBRZ; 12-10-2014 at 05:10 PM.
Old 12-10-2014, 05:16 PM
  #11171  
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^

as if you don't know how to spell my user name, it's in your signature.

Last edited by skd2k1; 12-10-2014 at 05:23 PM.
Old 12-10-2014, 05:18 PM
  #11172  
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So he DOES know what he's talking about!
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Old 12-10-2014, 06:06 PM
  #11173  
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Originally Posted by ttribe
"Listening" and "adapting to survive" are two very different things. They've done just enough to stay afloat, but not enough to prosper.
I think they need to survive first before they can prosper..lol....we all know how Acura sedan-line up was in a big mess for several years and it's only until this year that they kinda know what they are doing....
Old 12-10-2014, 06:42 PM
  #11174  
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Originally Posted by iforyou

The TLX is looking strong indeed. I think by increased competition, people are also talking about the likes of CLA and A3. These cars are priced closer to the TLX. People who care about the emblem would jump to those cars before considering the TLX. The German brands don't really suffer from this.



My friend also has a Q5 and it was just out of warranty. Long and behold, on his recent road trip, his engine light came out. Luckily it was a only an actuator issue and costed him just about $500 to fix. But his brakes are almost done now and the dealership is quoting him $1500 for a brake job.
Brother's 2004 Cayenne Turbo was pretty solid for 8 years, then last two years @ 90K miles started regularly throwing codes and warning lights (pneumatic suspension, ABS modulator, VSC, one turbo was going, plastic cooling pipes failed,...) Still absolute blast to drive, great performance for 2.5 ton SUV. interior was pretty cool for 2004. See how the Q5 holds up.









Old 12-11-2014, 09:46 AM
  #11175  
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Originally Posted by Yumcha
Friendly reminder for you gentlemen to ACT like gentlemen, please?




Holy, it's like you're fighting over reposts in here or something. (Joke for those who get it.)
Do we have to...?
Old 12-11-2014, 10:03 AM
  #11176  
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skd2k1, please put down the crack pipe.
Old 12-11-2014, 10:23 AM
  #11177  
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Originally Posted by justnspace
skd2k1, please put down the crack pipe.
crack is wack.
Old 12-11-2014, 11:41 AM
  #11178  
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Originally Posted by Legend2TL
Brother's 2004 Cayenne Turbo was pretty solid for 8 years, then last two years @ 90K miles started regularly throwing codes and warning lights (pneumatic suspension, ABS modulator, VSC, one turbo was going, plastic cooling pipes failed,...) Still absolute blast to drive, great performance for 2.5 ton SUV. interior was pretty cool for 2004. See how the Q5 holds up.
Other than the recent engine light issue with my friend's Q5, the rear right door has also developed a weird noise issue. When going over even a slight bump or uneven pavement, that door would make some kind of squeaking noise. The funny thing is, this doesn't always happen. The dealer has yet to find out what's causing this though. I feel bad for him though as the noise is quite annoying.
Old 12-11-2014, 11:46 AM
  #11179  
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It is the weather strip looking black foam thing between inside the door touches the body when door is closed.

Very common in Euro Cars.. dont know why.

ask him to wipe some WD40 or other greasy oil thoroughly on the strip and see if it helps. If it does, then there is other product that will last longer than WD40.
Old 12-11-2014, 12:08 PM
  #11180  
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Originally Posted by oonowindoo
It is the weather strip looking black foam thing between inside the door touches the body when door is closed.

Very common in Euro Cars.. dont know why.

ask him to wipe some WD40 or other greasy oil thoroughly on the strip and see if it helps. If it does, then there is other product that will last longer than WD40.
Do not use WD40 or oil, petroleum products will deteriorate the rubber.

Use CRC (or compatible) pure silicone spray, lubricates and preserves rubber and drys completely so will not attract dirt/dust.

Last edited by Legend2TL; 12-11-2014 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 12-11-2014, 01:19 PM
  #11181  
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too much chemical engineering stuff...

i just know it needed some kind of lube.
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Old 12-11-2014, 01:20 PM
  #11182  
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Originally Posted by oonowindoo
It is the weather strip looking black foam thing between inside the door touches the body when door is closed.

Very common in Euro Cars.. dont know why.

ask him to wipe some WD40 or other greasy oil thoroughly on the strip and see if it helps. If it does, then there is other product that will last longer than WD40.
Originally Posted by Legend2TL
Do not use WD40 or oil, petroleum products will deteriorate the rubber.

Use CRC (or compatible) pure silicone spray, lubricates and preserves rubber and drys completely so will not attract dirt/dust.
Originally Posted by oonowindoo
too much chemical engineering stuff...

i just know it needed some kind of lube.
This is the stuff to use -
Amazon.com: einszett 914806 'Gummi Pflege Stift' Rubber Care Stick - 3.4 fl. oz: Automotive Amazon.com: einszett 914806 'Gummi Pflege Stift' Rubber Care Stick - 3.4 fl. oz: Automotive

I use it on the seals for my convertible top.
Old 12-11-2014, 01:49 PM
  #11183  
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What the fuck is going on in this thread.
Old 12-11-2014, 02:30 PM
  #11184  
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^
Old 12-11-2014, 02:35 PM
  #11185  
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ran out of shit to talk about.
Old 12-11-2014, 03:03 PM
  #11186  
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Originally Posted by oonowindoo
ran out of shit to talk about.
Hater.
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Old 12-11-2014, 04:49 PM
  #11187  
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meh.. still nothing. I guess i became immune to the word hater.
Old 12-11-2014, 04:52 PM
  #11188  
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Lover.
Old 12-11-2014, 05:30 PM
  #11189  
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Originally Posted by fsttyms1
What the fuck is going on in this thread.
Dude this is quality stuff man. Not even the dealer knows about this lube trick lol!
Old 12-11-2014, 06:03 PM
  #11190  
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Originally Posted by oonowindoo
too much chemical engineering stuff...

i just know it needed some kind of lube.
My degree is in ChemE and I can't tell if it's chemical engineerin or not, but this thread is probably just too boring for me to care.
Old 12-11-2014, 06:06 PM
  #11191  
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Rambling is dead.... and you think this is boring?
Old 12-11-2014, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Legend2TL
Do not use WD40 or oil, petroleum products will deteriorate the rubber.

Use CRC (or compatible) pure silicone spray, lubricates and preserves rubber and drys completely so will not attract dirt/dust.
Shin Etsu grease?
Amazon.com: Honda Genuine Shin-Etsu Grease: Automotive Amazon.com: Honda Genuine Shin-Etsu Grease: Automotive

Dealer put some along my window channel to quiet the squeaks down. No problems with them drying out either.

Originally Posted by oonowindoo
i just know it needed some kind of lube.
Old 12-12-2014, 07:57 AM
  #11193  
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Originally Posted by iforyou
Dude this is quality stuff man. Not even the dealer knows about this lube trick lol!
Acurazine proud sponsors

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Originally Posted by AZuser
Shin Etsu grease? Amazon.com: Honda Genuine Shin-Etsu Grease: Automotive

Dealer put some along my window channel to quiet the squeaks down. No problems with them drying out either.



Never used it but I've read that stuff is good, should pick some up

Lube ttribe linked also had very good Amazon reviews

There's also a GM window/door seal grease product that a friend got a tube of, looks similar to the Honda stuff. Classic car folks swear by it.

Besides rubber trim seals, I also extremely recommend 100% pure silicone spray for CV Joint boots, ball joint boots, engine mounts, subframe isolators and suspension bushings.
Inexpensive stuff, ~$3 per spray at Walmart, Home Depot,...

Our 2003 Pilot with ~250K miles is still on the original CV joint boots, just spray and and wipe down the boots to clean off dirt/debis, then spray again to protect.
Do it when I change oil or have it jack up.

Last edited by Legend2TL; 12-12-2014 at 08:08 AM.
Old 12-12-2014, 08:10 AM
  #11194  
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Originally Posted by AZuser
I wonder how well this work on the plastic trim that goes along the roof on a 3g. been looking for something to lube that up.
Old 12-12-2014, 08:17 AM
  #11195  
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Originally Posted by skd2k1
I wonder how well this work on the plastic trim that goes along the roof on a 3g. been looking for something to lube that up.
is it faded?

shitzu grease wont make it look better. its lube for rubber on rubber contact.

if you want to spruce up the black trim, use a detailing product like "mothers; back to black"
Old 12-12-2014, 08:30 AM
  #11196  
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Originally Posted by justnspace
is it faded?

shitzu grease wont make it look better. its lube for rubber on rubber contact.

if you want to spruce up the black trim, use a detailing product like "mothers; back to black"
fortunately it's not faded...at least not noticeably, but I'm afraid it could fade or crack at some point. I have used back to black in the past, good stuff.
Old 12-12-2014, 11:34 AM
  #11197  
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those lubes are good for friction. Unless you need more friction on your piece.
If your parts are being baked under the sun, you need something else... like wrap the piece in black.
Old 12-12-2014, 12:29 PM
  #11198  
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This thread is a testament to how boring the TLX is..when everyone is talking about lubes..........
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Old 12-12-2014, 05:11 PM
  #11199  
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The fanboys in TLX section are a lot quieter now than before.

I guess reality has finally sunken in for some of them.
Old 12-13-2014, 12:21 AM
  #11200  
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Originally Posted by iforyou
This thread is a testament to how boring the TLX is..when everyone is talking about lubes..........


Biker, PW+1


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