TS_eXpeed

Me too.
Minus the cats.

jupitersolo

See that's what I mean, you say overdone, conservative. I'm not about putting someone down because they see something another way. It doesn't have to be a quality photo, it just has to be what the person is going for. You don't have to like it, but to say it has to be done one way and way only is wrong.

When people pushed exposures with film is was just another way to develop film, when it's done digitally with computers it's wrong.

srika

yeah, agreed on that, it's art. art is an infinite entity.

TS_eXpeed

I'm not for putting people down either.
I'm a fan of constructive criticism.

If someone likes a picture they took, then all the power to them. I may disagree with someone else's taste in technique or concept, but I also believe there is a line between 'seeing something another way' and flat out taking a bad photograph. I feel like can recognize when I may just differ in style from someone else, to when something just went conceptually wrong. And some may not agree with me...but yes, I think there IS such thing as a good photograph and a bad photograph despite it being an 'art'.

If someone was to post something just saying they liked a picture they took and wanted to share, I may express my opinion if I felt it something was way off (just as I would like someone to mention to me...along with practice, it takes criticism to get better) but I'd leave it be after that. But if someone asks for criticism and evaluation of a picture, you can be sure I let someone know all the photographic qualities I like and dislike as well as anything that I think may have made a better quality photograph (not necessarily just what I would've liked for the photograph).

Just with many things in life, photography, w/e...you have to understand, grasp, and master the rules before you can successfully break them. HDR is no exception. I prefer a more conservative, realistic approach. I can appreciate that others may like the pop-in-your-face kind of approach as well. Both can be done successfully. "Over-doing it" IMO is an example of breaking the rules. Here's a pic I found on flickr after just a quick search of someone who "over-did it"...




Personally, it's not my favorite in terms of style. But photographically I can appreciate the picture. It almost just looks like a painting. In a toned downed version, I probably would've liked it. Some "over-done" HDR's though, I couldn't appreciate...because no amount of toning down or even using the original properly exposed frame shows a weak picture photographically. And my premise for the 'overdone' comment in my original argument stemmed from the fact that many people who first venture into HDR do exactly that. I agree that there's no one right way to execute a technique, but as an amateur photographer myself, I strive to analyze and critique pictures and learn to recognize when a picture is maybe just not my style, and when it simply isn't a good photograph so I can learn not only from my mistakes, but others as well.

jupitersolo

I'm going to simple say, when it come to photography there are no rules to what a person sees and how they get it to a forum for others to see. There are rules that come to play when getting the three elements of exposure down, but that's pretty were I see it stopping.

srika

I don't think HDR helped me get noticed for any cityscape. like for that book cover shot, I think the primary appeal was the unique panoramic interpretation, not the exposure treatment. I still like HDR. But I think you're right when you say it's a matter of being a snob. I do think I'm a HDR snob at this point.

srika

btw regarding Trey R - starting from the beginning, he has posted pretty much all of his work on flickr at fullsize, without any watermark. And yet he still became successful. Anyone wanna take a stab at explaining that to me? I mean, in a world where people are so concerned about their rights and stealing and copyright and the devaluation of work thereof, what gives? is it really as big a deal as people think? I don't know what the 'answer' is, I'm just curious to hear what you think.

jupitersolo

Trey has done a lot of work before his HDR, he'll give you one image from his travels. The rest he keeps. You know it's his work, plus he had his books and his workshops.


This is another one of his websites that keep tabs on HDR.

http://www.hdrspotting.com/

srika

yeah when I said from the beginning I meant from the first time stuckincustoms started gaining ground. I don't find it hard to believe he's done a lot of work before that time.

and, it just occurred to me what "stuck in customs" means. LOL I just never stopped to think about it before, also because it always appears as stuckincustoms it looks more like a brand than a state of being. lol

jupitersolo

Lol

SaaBaaDoo

Went to a silent auction at one of the local churches and got a couple new goodies!

Brand new in box Wacom Intuos 2 9x11 tablet: $26
Almost new in box Epson Stylus Photo 2200 Printer: $5!!!! Granted it's not the latest and greatest but can't beat it for $5 and it works perfectly!

Would have been even nicer if someone had some L lenses and nobody knew what they were worth.

srika

nice on that Wacom!

wndrlst

^+1!

Mizouse

whats your guys opinions on using the Sanyo Eneloops in a flash unit?
ive been reading that because of lower internal resistances in NiMH batteries they allow for like 30-50% faster recycling time and they dont gradually slow down the recycling time when the battery starts to run out, unlike alkalines.

i thought someone mentioned here its better to use alkalines?

Mizouse

nvm.

i just read from the master.

i think i will pick some up.
a 4 pack of AAs + charger is 21 bux.

Mizouse

srika

I have found my Powerex + Maha charger system to be unpredictable. And, this is bad - very bad! Most of the time, it works great. But once in a while, the batteries go out VERY soon. And sometimes, the batteries output power is weird, like when I take a picture it'll be totally blown out - I mean like all white. I can take the picture again without changing anything, and it'll look normal. This has happened to me in crutch moments and its horrible. You have to be 100% confident in your system and when you cannot be, it's really not fun to use. I think I am charging correctly, usually I just put the batteries in and let it charge, I followed the directions, I think the first time had to do a "soft" charge. It's real annoying. I never had this problem with the old Energizers - they didn't last as long, but predictable, reliable power > unpredictable longer lasting power, by FAR!

this is the charger I have:
http://www.amazon.com/Maha-MH-C801D-.../dp/B000E5S648

einsatz

Energizer rechargeable haven't given me any trouble. I've been using the same set sporadically in my 430ex II for about a year now.

Mizouse

I see, well I'm looking for LSD batteries so those powerx batteries won't work.
Only cause I don't use my flash that often.

LSD batteries have lower capacities than nonLSD but that doesn't matte IMO cause I can just get more to carry around

JS + XES

iTrader: (1)

guys, is this BG-E2 grip a good price?

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/...d.php?t=868768

JS + XES

iTrader: (1)

wait.. does my 40D work with bg e2 anyway? don't i need to get eg e2n??

TS_eXpeed

Yes.
But no weather sealing. And something else....

JS + XES

iTrader: (1)

is it AF button? just googled it but some sites are saying one has AF button and the other does not.

TS_eXpeed

I dunno.
I'm a Nikonite.
I just found out through a quick google.

Mizouse

no there is no AF-ON button on the BG-E2N

the only difference is the slight weather sealing.

Mizouse

and the BG-E2 will work fine with the 40D

id sell you my BG-E2N, but i think i want to sell it as a package when i get around to selling my 40D

JS + XES

iTrader: (1)

come on miz.. just sell me yours..

a lot of people sell their body and grip seperately on canon forum anyway! dunno why though.

Mizouse

well, mines a little beat up, I'll take some pics and send it to you.

JS + XES

iTrader: (1)

cool cool, let me know.

lcrazyaznl

iTrader: (1)

srika i get that problem once with ther power rex too not sure why.

As well sometimes the powerex have a dead charge when its been sitting around a few days.

srika

well glad i'm not alone. It's pretty serious problem, IMO.

Mizouse

i guess just get more reliable lower capacity batteries

Mizouse

my bad i forgot about this. ill try to send you some later.

JS + XES

iTrader: (1)

Great!

srika

FUJIFILM FinePix REAL 3D W1 System [REVIEW]
Posted: 08 May 2010 12:57 PM PDT
Nearly as old as photography itself, 3D photography has come and gone in roughly 50 year cycles. So Fujifilm has lobbed its FinePix REAL 3D system nearly right on schedule, coinciding with fervent activity in Hollywood as 3D movies spill onto screens around the world.
I’ve spent a bit of time with the with 3D, having owned and used large format vintage wood, leather and brass stereo cameras, 1950s-era 35mm cameras such as the Stereo-Realist and a passionate affair with Nimslo’s 35mm 1980s camera that produced lenticular prints.

Fujifilm tackles the task differently: the 10 megapixel camera has a 3x optical zoom and can capture, preview 3D on screen and (via a Fujifilm facility) print digital photos in a 3D format. And you don’t wear anaglyph (red/blue-green) or polarised spectacles to view the stereo effect.
The die-cast aluminium bodied camera and optional viewer are styled in black. Kicking off the power by sliding the front panel downwards revealed a pair of 3x zoom lenses that feed individual CCDs, spaced about 77mm apart; the usual separation in stereo cameras is about 65mm — the lateral separation of human eyes.
This inter-ocular separation is claimed to be for subjects 2.3 metres or farther away; the rule is that lens-to-lens distance should be around 1/30th the subject distance.

Run Time
Powered up, you get a splash screen showing the REAL 3D logo, quickly followed by the real world before your camera — in 3D. Eerie it is!
Take a shot. Wait a sec. Then you get a 3D view right there on the 7.1cm LCD screen. Amazing. Stereo, right there on screen!
There’s more. Add the REAL 3D V1viewer with its 20cm screen to the equation, link your camera (complete with shots) via a USB input and view them in all their depth.
While the camera captures two views, one for each eye, the actual display on the camera’s or viewer’s displays is passed to your two eyes via a lenticular (ribbed) screen grid, directing the appropriate view to the specific eye.
For a stereo effect your head position is critical; move a fraction to either side and you get double images.
It’s best if you don’t shoot a very close object fronting a more distant one. The best shots are views with a tightly controlled range at least two metres or more away. But once it’s working properly, the effect is magic.
The camera can capture two files: a JPEG and an MPO image … the former is a normal 2D image, the latter being the 3D image, viewable in stereo only on the camera or viewer screen. Maximum image size is 3648×2736 pixels, so a 2D print of 31×23cm is achievable.
The Advanced 3D setting commands the camera to shoot a pair of 3D shots, either one by one, moved laterally between shots — or spaced apart by a time delay. The former could be useful to shoot your own 3D pair of distant subjects; the latter could be used if the camera is moving.
There is parallax control to vary the image separation: if, after shooting a picture, you feel the lateral positioning to be extreme or insufficient, you can vary it. Incredibly, you can even realign the lenses’ relative vertical axes. Fujifilm has thought of everything!

The macro mode is operative only in 2D but I was able to do some reasonably close 3D shots with the zoom set to full tele.
There are the usual helpers: face detection; onboard flash has all the modes (forced on/off flash, slow sync etc); scene modes such as night, portraits etc; continuous mode.
A mind-blaster is the camera’s ability to shot a pair of 2D shots, one with the lens at wide, the other at tele; with different colour settings; different ISO.
Movies? Yup! And are they an experience! While captured at only 640×480 pixel resolution, you get the full 3D effect by panning the camera around, with subjects floating past you in depth; do some recording, then replay and enjoy a surreal view of the real world, as viewed on an LCD screen. But you can’t run it on a normal TV.

ISO Speeds


Taken with ISO 100 at f4 and 1/100 second setting.

This time: ISO 800 at f4 and 1/320 second.
You get a reasonable range of ISO settings: 100 to 1600. From my tests the 100 to 800 appear to be useable with noise not a serious problem; however the 1600 level shows quite a bit of noise and colour artefacts.

There is one trap here and this probably applies to other digicams: when shooting with ISO on auto, in low light situations the system may default to a high ISO setting to access a faster shutter sped and/or smaller lens aperture — as this shot of a café did, defaulting to ISO 800!

The Viewer

To view your 2D and 3D images or movies you can either connect the viewer directly to the camera — or slip the SD card directly into the viewer. You can also add the images to the viewer’s 512MB of internal memory by infra red. A mains power input and remote control completes the kit.
You can run images singly or as a slide show; to accompany the presentation you can replay either internal tracks or add your own MP3 tracks.
3D Prints

Fujifilm has developed a 3D print system. This service will initially be offered via an online Fujifilm microsite. Files are uploaded, printed in Japan and posted back to the consumer.
Current prices in the UK:
152×102 mm: £3.99 / €4.39 each
179×127 mm: £4.29 / €4.69 each
Plus Postage.
Comments

The WOW! factor is undeniable. If you want to explore some radical technology, go for it. The camera and technology are to die for!
I seriously question the all-over black styling, coupled with the tiny controls picked out in grey, makes it a real challenge to work the camera in dim light.
Quality: the 3D shots are superb; 2D about average in colour and resolution.
Why you’d buy the REAL W1: You love 3D.
Why you wouldn’t: You’re not a tech-head; pricey.
FUJIFILM FinePix REAL 3D W1 System Specs

Image Sensor: 10.0 million effective pixels.
Metering: Multi zone, averaging; spot.
Sensor Size: Two 11mm CCDs.
Lens: Two Fujinon f3.7-4.2/6.3-18.9mm (35-105mm as 35 SLR equivalent).
Shutter Speed: 3 to 1/1/1000 second.
Exposure Control: Auto, Program AE, aperture priority, manual.
Metering: Multi zone, averaging, spot.
Continuous Shooting: Up to two (3D) or three (2D) shots per second; maximum: 40 shots.
Memory: SD, SDHC cards plus 42MB of internal memory.
Image Sizes (pixels): 3648×2736, 3348×2432, 2592×1944, 2048×1536. Movies: 640×420, 320×240.
File Formats: MPO+JPEG or MPO, AVI Motion JPEG.
ISO Sensitivity: Auto, 100 to 1600.
Interface: USB 2.0, AV, DC input.
Power: Rechargeable lithium ion battery, AC adaptor.
Dimensions: 123.6×68x25.6 WHDmm.
Weight: Approx. 300 g (inc battery, memory card).
Price: Get a price on the Fuji FinePix W1 on Amazon

Mizouse

holy crap, so i looked at the invoice from B&H when i got my BG-E2N brand new it costed me $179.95 back on April 29th 2008

and a new one now goes for $133.95




edit: a BP-511A is cheaper by $5 now too!

srika

I can't for the life of me get the shutter count off my camera. I tried like 5 utilities and either it says 0 or it is not listed at all. Any other options other than giving it to Canon?

wndrlst

You rolled the dial back to 0.

srika

jupitersolo

You're not going to get shutter count off of a 5D. 1D's maybe, but Canon has blocked the 1d4 so far. Only way to find out, send it to Canon, then not sure if they'll even tell you.