The Ultimate Cooling Mod
are you kidding me? do you know nothing about canada hahahaa...it was 115 degrees f here today. Heat soak is a very bad issue in the summers.
That is why I want to know if drilling holes in the windshield wiper cowling or even the non funtional lower grilles will be bad for winter driving with rain, snow, slush, salt etc....
That is why I want to know if drilling holes in the windshield wiper cowling or even the non funtional lower grilles will be bad for winter driving with rain, snow, slush, salt etc....
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,096
Likes: 414
From: Scarborough, Ontario
In most parts of Canada... the summers are hot and humid as our winters are cold, damp and god damn slushy!
Dave, my lower grilles were really hacked up [half of it on both sides] for a long while. I was in and out of Montreal, Kitchener, Waterloo, Mississauga, Toronto, Brampton, London and Windsor a lot. There were no issues with opening up the lower grilles. Sure, snow and slush got in that area sometimes... but nothing to damage the car.
I'll be doing this mod soon as ... god damn I can cook an egg by leaving it on my fender or hood!
I can see a potential problem with this mod in the winter time. I suppose making some sort of cover would be the best option---unless you can get another cowl to replace it for winter.
Dave, my lower grilles were really hacked up [half of it on both sides] for a long while. I was in and out of Montreal, Kitchener, Waterloo, Mississauga, Toronto, Brampton, London and Windsor a lot. There were no issues with opening up the lower grilles. Sure, snow and slush got in that area sometimes... but nothing to damage the car.
I'll be doing this mod soon as ... god damn I can cook an egg by leaving it on my fender or hood!
I can see a potential problem with this mod in the winter time. I suppose making some sort of cover would be the best option---unless you can get another cowl to replace it for winter.
I wonder if you put a body kit with large openings such as the link below if that would help. I think a big reason for shitty cooling is the fact not enough air is drawn into the front bumper since their is just the top grille opening...
or maybe even a new hood with hoodscoop, but what if you get a hood with hood scoop and it rains, snows etc...
http://cgi.ebay.ca/04-05-06-07-08-Ac...item5192c06c58
or maybe even a new hood with hoodscoop, but what if you get a hood with hood scoop and it rains, snows etc...
http://cgi.ebay.ca/04-05-06-07-08-Ac...item5192c06c58
even if u have a hood with a hood scoop u will be fine in any weather. i know cause i have a hood scoop on my AM hood. most AM hood with hood scoop have a removable plastic peice underneath to redirect water, dirt etc to the front of the hood/grill outlet. i keep my plastic piece off cause whats the point of having vented hood with the vents being blocked off?? u will be fine in any weather with vented hood
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,096
Likes: 414
From: Scarborough, Ontario
Currently in the process of the UCM.
Just took off the cowl... the driver wiper was a small pain to take off!
Man... I made the mistake of performing this mod after going for a drive. The heat coming at me along with the humidity in the air was unreal!
I'm just sitting in the TL abusing the a/c now...
Just took off the cowl... the driver wiper was a small pain to take off!
Man... I made the mistake of performing this mod after going for a drive. The heat coming at me along with the humidity in the air was unreal!
I'm just sitting in the TL abusing the a/c now...
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,096
Likes: 414
From: Scarborough, Ontario
I went back to the car after a hour (both wipers and cowl are removed).
The hood and fender areas have already seemed to cool down. Usually it'd still be hot to the touch!
Not sure how much of the bottom vent to open up... so I did almost all of it. Now just have to find how I want the escape-holes to look like.
The hood and fender areas have already seemed to cool down. Usually it'd still be hot to the touch!
Not sure how much of the bottom vent to open up... so I did almost all of it. Now just have to find how I want the escape-holes to look like.
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,096
Likes: 414
From: Scarborough, Ontario
Just installed my cut cowl.
I had a little fun with mine, though.
Ended up dremeling 'o4komodo' in to it... came out much much MUCH larger than anticipated. Forgot that the wheel would be too big. Oh well.
I ended up opening all of the lower vents of the cowl. I then pretty much cut a long-mid-sized rectangle. Essentially it's like having the full UCM... but with the cowl still there.


^^Wanted it to be 1/2 that size... if only I had a spare cowl...
I had a little fun with mine, though.
Ended up dremeling 'o4komodo' in to it... came out much much MUCH larger than anticipated. Forgot that the wheel would be too big. Oh well.
I ended up opening all of the lower vents of the cowl. I then pretty much cut a long-mid-sized rectangle. Essentially it's like having the full UCM... but with the cowl still there.


^^Wanted it to be 1/2 that size... if only I had a spare cowl...
Last edited by o4Komodo; Jul 8, 2010 at 04:27 AM.
Real quick... After getting the bolt off the wiper, I had a tough time getting the wiper off too. What I did was lift the wiper up away from the window at it's "elbow". This instantly allowed me to remove the wiper from the screw area.
I drove thru 10 miles of very heavy rain yesterday evening. On the freeway, all traffic was doing 40 mph with wipers on "high". This was a non-stop intense downpour for 10 miles. There was no problems with the removed cowl. The engine compartment was completely dry too.
I had my first downpour one year ago. Quoted above is what I posted on August 13 2009. What I posted a year ago, is still true today.
This is my daily driver with no days off due to bad weather. I have been thru more downpours than you could shake a boat oar at.

Thanks for checking
heres some pictures of what MUST be removed from the cowl if you want the UCM to work for you.
Hot engine air goes through these holes



hot engine air exits out these holes

I also highly recommend removing the plastic engine cover that sits over the radiator. There is a small gap between the bumper and the radiator that fresh air can now enter and move into the engine bay. With this plastic cover in place, it will block almost all the air entering through the front grill
Hot engine air goes through these holes



hot engine air exits out these holes

I also highly recommend removing the plastic engine cover that sits over the radiator. There is a small gap between the bumper and the radiator that fresh air can now enter and move into the engine bay. With this plastic cover in place, it will block almost all the air entering through the front grill
heres some pictures of what MUST be removed from the cowl if you want the UCM to work for you.
Hot engine air goes through these holes



hot engine air exits out these holes

I also highly recommend removing the plastic engine cover that sits over the radiator. There is a small gap between the bumper and the radiator that fresh air can now enter and move into the engine bay. With this plastic cover in place, it will block almost all the air entering through the front grill
Hot engine air goes through these holes



hot engine air exits out these holes

I also highly recommend removing the plastic engine cover that sits over the radiator. There is a small gap between the bumper and the radiator that fresh air can now enter and move into the engine bay. With this plastic cover in place, it will block almost all the air entering through the front grill
I did the semi UCM a while back and drilled 7/8 holes where ever i could but i never cut out the plastic where you pinpointed the arrows and i do want to do it as i see that it is the main area where the air will go trough to exit.
the only thing is that i dont feel like removing the cowl again, i wonder if it is a big pain in the ass doing it on the spot
im sure i wouldnt be able to do it clean....
I did the semi UCM a while back and drilled 7/8 holes where ever i could but i never cut out the plastic where you pinpointed the arrows and i do want to do it as i see that it is the main area where the air will go trough to exit.
the only thing is that i dont feel like removing the cowl again, i wonder if it is a big pain in the ass doing it on the spot
im sure i wouldnt be able to do it clean....
the only thing is that i dont feel like removing the cowl again, i wonder if it is a big pain in the ass doing it on the spot
im sure i wouldnt be able to do it clean....
Turbo Bert - Your cutting along the bottom section of the cowling (section under the hood) is very smooth, yet very close to the edges. The part where the red arrows are pointing in your recent pics. What did you use to make the cut-outs ? Did you use the hot butter knife idea ?


For anyone that goes the extra mile to open-up the lower grills by removing the pieces shown above, be sure to also remove the small pieces of plastic trim next to the radiator (see below pic). These trim pieces are not that large. But considering that the air will have a straight shot into the engine bay, this small opening is very valuable at allowing a significant blast of air to enter.
Note - This is only beneficial if you have already done an adequate version of the UCM. No sense in trying to get more cooling air in the engine bay if the air has no where to exit.

In the pic above - Remove these two piece of plastic trim from the left and right lower sides of the radiator.

In the pic above - The purple outline illustrates where the trim piece was located on the passenger side of the car. Also, it illustrates the new opening that was created. Ram air has a straight shot into the engine bay. The plan is for the air to enter here, grab some heat from the engine bay, and to exit thru the UCM.

In the pic above - The purple outline illustrates the same as previous paragraph, but on the driver side of car.

In the pic above - This illustrates the new opening as viewed from inside the engine bay.
Mine has more issues with the heat then most of u guys. I think im gonna give a new thermostat a try and going to flush the coolant. My engine bay seems to get very hot quickly and the fans dont seem to kick in at full power. Which coolant do u guys recommend and where can i buy it. other then going to the dealer.
From my opening post on first page, third paragraph -
Our TL is *not* overheating because the coolant temps are too high . Our oem radiator and fans appear to be superb. The coolant temp is not the problem. On the contrary, the coolant should remain at oem spec'ed temps. The ECU needs to see these oem coolant temps to derive the correct trim mapping.
The problem is the underhood ambient temps. If you can keep the underhood temps down, power will stay up.
The problem is the underhood ambient temps. If you can keep the underhood temps down, power will stay up.
I did the semi UCM a while back and drilled 7/8 holes where ever i could but i never cut out the plastic where you pinpointed the arrows and i do want to do it as i see that it is the main area where the air will go trough to exit.
the only thing is that i dont feel like removing the cowl again, i wonder if it is a big pain in the ass doing it on the spot
the only thing is that i dont feel like removing the cowl again, i wonder if it is a big pain in the ass doing it on the spot
I feel like that my engine gets to hot either way cause sometimes some of you guys say, after having some cooling mods done to that u can actually keep your hand on top of the manifold cover for a little bit, which i can never do.
IHC said something about the thermostat keeping temps around 195 degrees even in winter which actually it should be around 170.
when my car gets sluggish it feels like its always running a gear higher then it should. and it doesnt take long for it to become sluggish
its not much money so i wanna give it a try....
Last edited by BukvaMan; Jul 28, 2010 at 02:34 PM.
My oil cooler is making big differences in under hood temps, a must for those looking to shed as much heat as possible. Looking at pre UCM #'s from 6/21/10 at 71 degrees
1.VTEC cover :140
2.intake tube: 123
3. Turbo exhaust side 435/ intake 123
Post UCM : 8/4/10 74 degrees outside
1.VTEC cover:96
2.intake Tube:94
3. Turbo:500+ exhaust side/ 117 intake
Big losses even with the turbo in there.
1.VTEC cover :140
2.intake tube: 123
3. Turbo exhaust side 435/ intake 123
Post UCM : 8/4/10 74 degrees outside
1.VTEC cover:96
2.intake Tube:94
3. Turbo:500+ exhaust side/ 117 intake
Big losses even with the turbo in there.
My oil cooler is making big differences in under hood temps, a must for those looking to shed as much heat as possible. Looking at pre UCM #'s from 6/21/10 at 71 degrees
1.VTEC cover :140
2.intake tube: 123
3. Turbo exhaust side 435/ intake 123
Post UCM : 8/4/10 74 degrees outside
1.VTEC cover:96
2.intake Tube:94
3. Turbo:500+ exhaust side/ 117 intake
Big losses even with the turbo in there.
1.VTEC cover :140
2.intake tube: 123
3. Turbo exhaust side 435/ intake 123
Post UCM : 8/4/10 74 degrees outside
1.VTEC cover:96
2.intake Tube:94
3. Turbo:500+ exhaust side/ 117 intake
Big losses even with the turbo in there.
Last edited by Hi speed; Aug 4, 2010 at 04:00 PM.
I just bought the ATLP J pipe and I am trying to decide between the TUSDO exhaust and the ATLP. I am wondering what the difference would be between the 2, and if this would create better flow, gas mileage and more?
Don't put too much thought into it. You should go by what sounds the best to you or what fits your budget. With the TL's <300hp, once you're running a 2.5" pipe and decent mufflers they're all going to make about the same power.











