Turbo Kit for Acura TL '04-'08
07-30-2009, 10:32 PM
#1763
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
07-30-2009, 11:25 PM
#1764
The turbo TL will fail the visual and tailpipe tests miserably. No precats= no chance at passing, not worth trying.
Uninstalling shouldn't be that bad. The battery can stay where it's at, the oil feed and return can be capped off. It will be a quicker process than the initial installation.
Uninstalling shouldn't be that bad. The battery can stay where it's at, the oil feed and return can be capped off. It will be a quicker process than the initial installation.
07-30-2009, 11:53 PM
#1766
Team Owner
07-30-2009, 11:57 PM
#1767
Team Owner
For sure. I've spent a lot of time at the track but honestly, it's no fun unless you can drive it on the street. For the money I've spent making sure the GN is very mild and street friendly, I could've had a mid 9 second car.
Same thing with the TL, I would want to enjoy it every day, not just every other weekend for a few passes. Power is easy to make. I have fun making it streetable and I'm pretty good at it.
Not bragging, but it's a fun challenge to have a small displacement engine with 700hp at the crank that you can't tell much of a difference from a stock car until you put the pedal down. If I just wanted speed, I would do a large single turbo big block Chevy and make 1,000hp on pump gas.
Sorry about the rant lol.
Same thing with the TL, I would want to enjoy it every day, not just every other weekend for a few passes. Power is easy to make. I have fun making it streetable and I'm pretty good at it.
Not bragging, but it's a fun challenge to have a small displacement engine with 700hp at the crank that you can't tell much of a difference from a stock car until you put the pedal down. If I just wanted speed, I would do a large single turbo big block Chevy and make 1,000hp on pump gas.
Sorry about the rant lol.
07-31-2009, 12:10 AM
#1768
Team Owner
LOL. Here's another use for a BOV......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqdqBHtLmCo
Or this......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbNxugO-uf0
In the first, you can actually see the compressor surge.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sqdqBHtLmCo
Or this......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbNxugO-uf0
In the first, you can actually see the compressor surge.
07-31-2009, 12:13 AM
#1769
Team Owner
Keep in mind, the BOV is not a necessity, especially on the 5ATs.
07-31-2009, 12:39 AM
#1770
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
I've trained taekwondo for several years.. my old master used have us kick each other in the chins simultaneously.. I still have some nerve damage and get uneasy at the thought of doing it again. After hearing the BOV in Rodney's videos... I could never turn down such a rich tone. Seems like a bit more bark than bite but then I remember he has over 400 at the wheels..
07-31-2009, 12:52 AM
#1771
Team Owner
I've trained taekwondo for several years.. my old master used have us kick each other in the chins simultaneously.. I still have some nerve damage and get uneasy at the thought of doing it again. After hearing the BOV in Rodney's videos... I could never turn down such a rich tone. Seems like a bit more bark than bite but then I remember he has over 400 at the wheels..
We used to kick wood beams, not at full power but enough to hurt very bad. I never built up the shins like everyone else. They had these massive buildups of bone or whatever it is. I used to beat on them with drum sticks all the time in my spare time. I get grossed out very easy, can't even touch my own shins most of the time because you can feel the bone too well.
Sorry for the OT.
07-31-2009, 11:24 AM
#1774
Team Owner
On a manual where you lift off the gas on shifts, you don't want this air slowing the compressor down and having to speed up again when you hit the gas again. On an auto, there's no lifting off the gas when it shifts so it's really not needed. BOVs are rare in the cars I deal with since they're all automatics. It only takes about a second for the turbo to speed back up that would get annoying if it did that every time you shifted.
07-31-2009, 12:45 PM
#1775
When you're under boost and you shut the throttle quickly you have compressed air trapped between the throttlebody and turbo with no place to go. It flows backwards through the turbo and out the air filter the wrong way. This slows the turbo down and can put a bit of thrust load on the bearings. The BOV vents this air so it doesn't flow back through the turbo.
On a manual where you lift off the gas on shifts, you don't want this air slowing the compressor down and having to speed up again when you hit the gas again. On an auto, there's no lifting off the gas when it shifts so it's really not needed. BOVs are rare in the cars I deal with since they're all automatics. It only takes about a second for the turbo to speed back up that would get annoying if it did that every time you shifted.
On a manual where you lift off the gas on shifts, you don't want this air slowing the compressor down and having to speed up again when you hit the gas again. On an auto, there's no lifting off the gas when it shifts so it's really not needed. BOVs are rare in the cars I deal with since they're all automatics. It only takes about a second for the turbo to speed back up that would get annoying if it did that every time you shifted.
07-31-2009, 04:49 PM
#1777
Team Owner
You're right and I thought of that after I posted. That would make the BOV a good idea for the autos too. If it's partial closing, it's not that big of a deal but if it slams shut, it's a bigger deal.
07-31-2009, 04:53 PM
#1778
Team Owner
One thing that's been bothering me for a while and I've been reluctant to post it due to the debates.....
I hope our turbo guys are running at least a high quality 10w-30 such as Redline in these turbo TLs. You're over doubling the factory torque and producing it much lower in the power band. For each doubling of the load on rod bearings, the oil film thickness is cut in half. I don't want to see this thing fail and especially not from something simple like too thin of oil. You could likely get away with Redline 5w or 10w-30 with it's super high HTHS of 3.8 but other brands would require a 40wt to make sure there's no metal to metal contact and premature wearing of parts.
I hope our turbo guys are running at least a high quality 10w-30 such as Redline in these turbo TLs. You're over doubling the factory torque and producing it much lower in the power band. For each doubling of the load on rod bearings, the oil film thickness is cut in half. I don't want to see this thing fail and especially not from something simple like too thin of oil. You could likely get away with Redline 5w or 10w-30 with it's super high HTHS of 3.8 but other brands would require a 40wt to make sure there's no metal to metal contact and premature wearing of parts.
08-01-2009, 01:11 AM
#1782
Three Wheelin'
you say temporarily.....shifts in auto happen in 10ths of a second... the DBW throttle isn't fast enough to shut at idle opening and reopen all the way again in between shifts.... you would know that if u ever drove a manual TL from the delay u get from the DBW when you shift really fast (im talking about lift-throttle-shifts)..... the auto tranny shifts faster...u just dont get the bang of the manual from it, so it seems like it barely shifted...but the shift into the next gear is executed faster.... now imagine a slower responding throttle closing in between shifts that it can't even outdo with time.... ur car would either jerk, or lag big time, everytime it shifted...youd feel a big annoying delay when one gear ends, and the next one starts to pull.
if you find urself into the next gear, pulling, as ur last gear ended...that throttle never came down.... much less, temporarily
what happens with the throttle in a CVT tranny?
08-01-2009, 01:24 AM
#1783
Three Wheelin'
One thing that's been bothering me for a while and I've been reluctant to post it due to the debates.....
I hope our turbo guys are running at least a high quality 10w-30 such as Redline in these turbo TLs. You're over doubling the factory torque and producing it much lower in the power band. For each doubling of the load on rod bearings, the oil film thickness is cut in half. I don't want to see this thing fail and especially not from something simple like too thin of oil. You could likely get away with Redline 5w or 10w-30 with it's super high HTHS of 3.8 but other brands would require a 40wt to make sure there's no metal to metal contact and premature wearing of parts.
I hope our turbo guys are running at least a high quality 10w-30 such as Redline in these turbo TLs. You're over doubling the factory torque and producing it much lower in the power band. For each doubling of the load on rod bearings, the oil film thickness is cut in half. I don't want to see this thing fail and especially not from something simple like too thin of oil. You could likely get away with Redline 5w or 10w-30 with it's super high HTHS of 3.8 but other brands would require a 40wt to make sure there's no metal to metal contact and premature wearing of parts.
i would just change the oil more frequently so you dont run on fully worn out oil at all.... forget about that 3000-3500 mile intervals... do it sooner...especially during the summer...and if u drive like me
08-01-2009, 01:37 AM
#1784
Three Wheelin'
and another thing is... while ure building full boost, and suddenly u lift off throttle...the boost built in between the turbo and the TB gotta go somewhere, so it will bounce back to the turbo, causing the turbo to spin the other way...and while this is happening, you might step on the throttle again, increasing exhaust gass pressure all over again...which will try spin the turbo the other way...but the thing's spinning backwards cause of the boost bouncing back.....the turbo will get confused..might even start blowing exhaust back into the motor...while sucking the air outta the throttle, compressing it out into the engine bay
ok this last paragraph was a complete joke....lmaooo
i said this same exact thing to one of my friends one day....and he was scratching his head...saying "damn, this sounds like some risky business" lol ill just leave my car alone
08-01-2009, 04:39 AM
#1785
Team Owner
while this makes a lot of sense...... there's a bit of an issue with using thicker oil in the TL... bearing clearance is very tight. u wouldn't wanna over do it with the thicker oil....
i would just change the oil more frequently so you dont run on fully worn out oil at all.... forget about that 3000-3500 mile intervals... do it sooner...especially during the summer...and if u drive like me
i would just change the oil more frequently so you dont run on fully worn out oil at all.... forget about that 3000-3500 mile intervals... do it sooner...especially during the summer...and if u drive like me
08-01-2009, 01:23 PM
#1786
Three Wheelin'
I've already checked into that. Bearing clearances haven't changed since the TL was spec'd for a 30wt. In fact, it uses roughly the same rod and main clearances as your traditional small block Chevy from the 60s. My GN runs tighter clearances and I run it on 20w-50. In fact, it's spec'd for a 40wt in Europe and any place outside of North America.
08-01-2009, 01:48 PM
#1787
Not go to off topic, but since I've changed from 5W-20 to 5W-30 Extended Performance Synthetic Mobil 1, my MPG has decreased by 2-4. I used to get 32 MPG on 80MPH now I get 27-29 MPG on 80MPH (same conditions, same roads, same weather, same A/C level, same PSI on all tires, cruise). This is after two oil changes with 5W-30, both yield same results. I'm going to try to use 5W-20 next time and see how it goes, but everytime Advance Auto Parts has the special for the Mobil 1 Synthetic, they always don't have 5W-20.z
08-01-2009, 02:41 PM
#1788
Three Wheelin'
thats the biggest reason why car manufacturers recommend thinner oil.... for better MPG....thinner oil gives u better mpg, while thicker will hurt it a little..they use the thinnest oil during their 96 hr fuel economy test.....and the only other advantage thinner oil has, is cold starts, as it ensures sufficient flow through tight clearances, so motor isn't running dry till it heats up and thins out the oil
08-01-2009, 07:18 PM
#1789
Team Owner
Not go to off topic, but since I've changed from 5W-20 to 5W-30 Extended Performance Synthetic Mobil 1, my MPG has decreased by 2-4. I used to get 32 MPG on 80MPH now I get 27-29 MPG on 80MPH (same conditions, same roads, same weather, same A/C level, same PSI on all tires, cruise). This is after two oil changes with 5W-30, both yield same results. I'm going to try to use 5W-20 next time and see how it goes, but everytime Advance Auto Parts has the special for the Mobil 1 Synthetic, they always don't have 5W-20.z
08-01-2009, 07:27 PM
#1790
Team Owner
thats the biggest reason why car manufacturers recommend thinner oil.... for better MPG....thinner oil gives u better mpg, while thicker will hurt it a little..they use the thinnest oil during their 96 hr fuel economy test.....and the only other advantage thinner oil has, is cold starts, as it ensures sufficient flow through tight clearances, so motor isn't running dry till it heats up and thins out the oil
The startup protection is a myth too. Our oil pumps are a positive displacement pump meaning the pump the exact same amount of oil per revolution no matter if you have water or molassis. It will arrive at bearings and parts at the same time. The difference is it will require more energy to turn the pump with thicker oil.
The only time you will be able to see a difference in a 0w-20 and a 10w-30 in mpg is if you do a lot of short trips where the oil never gets up to full temp.
Look at it this way. A 0w-20 in Canada is thicker than a 10w-30 in CA. You guys argue the difference in 3cSt@100C yet you don't realize that a 20wt during the warm up process will have a 100C of 800 or more. Plain and simple, your 20wt at only 170 degrees is a 40wt oil. So those of you saying a 30wt will hurt, keep in mind that you're running a 40wt+ until it hits full temp 20 minutes after you start it.
Keep in mind, mine has had a straight 30 mono weight since it was new.
And keep in mind most Honda engines spec a 40wt outside of NA where CAFE has no influence.
08-01-2009, 07:29 PM
#1791
Team Owner
thats the biggest reason why car manufacturers recommend thinner oil.... for better MPG....thinner oil gives u better mpg, while thicker will hurt it a little..they use the thinnest oil during their 96 hr fuel economy test.....and the only other advantage thinner oil has, is cold starts, as it ensures sufficient flow through tight clearances, so motor isn't running dry till it heats up and thins out the oil
08-01-2009, 07:58 PM
#1792
Got your mom in
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ok. i got some fresh fresh (meaning 3 hours old) videos of Pass427's car... I'll post in a few. The videos are not that great but here are two very good reasons why...
1)Rodney has a DAMN TURBO!!!!!!!!!!!! and i dont. Stock 03 TL-S is the wideo car.
2)i was watching the road (like im supposed to) more than i was watching his car. my hand was watching his car
1)Rodney has a DAMN TURBO!!!!!!!!!!!! and i dont. Stock 03 TL-S is the wideo car.
2)i was watching the road (like im supposed to) more than i was watching his car. my hand was watching his car
08-01-2009, 08:32 PM
#1794
Team Owner
Why does it look like a flame underneath the car in the last video?
08-01-2009, 08:37 PM
#1796
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
08-01-2009, 08:40 PM
#1797
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
^^It's tough to tell but it looks like he put a couple buslengths on you in the 2nd vid from the reflection.
08-01-2009, 08:44 PM
#1798
Team Owner
08-01-2009, 08:49 PM
#1799
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
