TL Diet 2.0/Track Car Build - Roll Cage Pg 51
#1001
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damn Rex....i wish i would have come out to MAM....
did you get a chance to weigh your car in ? are you still sitting pretty under 2800lbs?
did you get a chance to weigh your car in ? are you still sitting pretty under 2800lbs?
#1002
Haven't weighed it in a while but I think proper weight and dyno numbers should be done before winter. But I think my race weight is around 2800-2850lb depending on fuel load. Chassis is definitely in the 2550lb range and 2500 shouldn't be too hard to accomplish over the winter
#1004
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2500 is awesome...
recently while i was checking my weight numbers, i saw that the stock TL weight distribution is 62/38...after the weight loss, I was closer to 64/36 and this really bothered me....
i wold love to be around 55/45 this will really really help me if i ever go to a track....
do get it corner weighed, it sure will help...
#1007
3.7L TL Intake Manifold & ZDX Throttle Body
PNP lower runners
Bisimoto Level 1 Cams with Valvetrain
RV6 V3 Jpipe to 3" dump exhaust
If time and money allows:
Larger CAI and filter
Relocated Oil filter with oil cooler and gauges
PNP work on the heads
Couple odds and ends as well
#1009
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Jeremy, just add ~50-75lbs for that....headlights/wipers/some electronics and harnesses....
I know Rex weighed in less than Tim before he dumped the headlights and stuff....
why are you going with the ZDX TB? I would go with the 3.7SHAWD TB
and since this is a dedicated track car, I would def run stage 2 cams with the titanium valvetrain upgrade....and when you send Bisi a core to grind, send the Type S core as the Type S core is hollow hence less rotational mass....and titanium valvetrain will save you some weight as well (very very little but every bit counts )
and since you are getting the bigger TB, I would urge you to get a 3.5 or a 4" intake with a 4"x9" filter....this will also help you with the mid range power....
I know Rex weighed in less than Tim before he dumped the headlights and stuff....
Right now I'm thinking the following:
3.7L TL Intake Manifold & ZDX Throttle Body
PNP lower runners
Bisimoto Level 1 Cams with Valvetrain
RV6 V3 Jpipe to 3" dump exhaust
If time and money allows:
Larger CAI and filter
Relocated Oil filter with oil cooler and gauges
PNP work on the heads
Couple odds and ends as well
3.7L TL Intake Manifold & ZDX Throttle Body
PNP lower runners
Bisimoto Level 1 Cams with Valvetrain
RV6 V3 Jpipe to 3" dump exhaust
If time and money allows:
Larger CAI and filter
Relocated Oil filter with oil cooler and gauges
PNP work on the heads
Couple odds and ends as well
and since this is a dedicated track car, I would def run stage 2 cams with the titanium valvetrain upgrade....and when you send Bisi a core to grind, send the Type S core as the Type S core is hollow hence less rotational mass....and titanium valvetrain will save you some weight as well (very very little but every bit counts )
and since you are getting the bigger TB, I would urge you to get a 3.5 or a 4" intake with a 4"x9" filter....this will also help you with the mid range power....
#1010
Jeremy, just add ~50-75lbs for that....headlights/wipers/some electronics and harnesses....
I know Rex weighed in less than Tim before he dumped the headlights and stuff....
why are you going with the ZDX TB? I would go with the 3.7SHAWD TB
and since this is a dedicated track car, I would def run stage 2 cams with the titanium valvetrain upgrade....and when you send Bisi a core to grind, send the Type S core as the Type S core is hollow hence less rotational mass....and titanium valvetrain will save you some weight as well (very very little but every bit counts )
and since you are getting the bigger TB, I would urge you to get a 3.5 or a 4" intake with a 4"x9" filter....this will also help you with the mid range power....
I know Rex weighed in less than Tim before he dumped the headlights and stuff....
why are you going with the ZDX TB? I would go with the 3.7SHAWD TB
and since this is a dedicated track car, I would def run stage 2 cams with the titanium valvetrain upgrade....and when you send Bisi a core to grind, send the Type S core as the Type S core is hollow hence less rotational mass....and titanium valvetrain will save you some weight as well (very very little but every bit counts )
and since you are getting the bigger TB, I would urge you to get a 3.5 or a 4" intake with a 4"x9" filter....this will also help you with the mid range power....
I'll definitely be picking up the TL-S cores to send Bisi but I would only run the Stage 2's if I had the MS3 to tune it with. I know it would probably run ok on the stock ECU but I don't really want to take the chance of it not. lol Reliability is still a big deal to me as I've never had a single engine issue on my car and would like to keep it that way.
And yeah, the larger intake and filter would be done with the new setup.
#1011
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I guess the verdict is still out but I thought the ZDX TB was the same size of the SH-AWD TB? Or is it not?
I'll definitely be picking up the TL-S cores to send Bisi but I would only run the Stage 2's if I had the MS3 to tune it with. I know it would probably run ok on the stock ECU but I don't really want to take the chance of it not. lol Reliability is still a big deal to me as I've never had a single engine issue on my car and would like to keep it that way.
And yeah, the larger intake and filter would be done with the new setup.
I'll definitely be picking up the TL-S cores to send Bisi but I would only run the Stage 2's if I had the MS3 to tune it with. I know it would probably run ok on the stock ECU but I don't really want to take the chance of it not. lol Reliability is still a big deal to me as I've never had a single engine issue on my car and would like to keep it that way.
And yeah, the larger intake and filter would be done with the new setup.
I would def run the ms3 and have it tuned by Andy (he is a freaking genius)....or you can run the AEM FIC which might help you as well....
Stage 2 cams + port and polish + tune and you will be running in the 340HP range on the base 5AT
#1012
dang, dude I apologize...yes do get some type of tuning as well....it will help you tremendously !!!
I would def run the ms3 and have it tuned by Andy (he is a freaking genius)....or you can run the AEM FIC which might help you as well....
Stage 2 cams + port and polish + tune and you will be running in the 340HP range on the base 5AT
I would def run the ms3 and have it tuned by Andy (he is a freaking genius)....or you can run the AEM FIC which might help you as well....
Stage 2 cams + port and polish + tune and you will be running in the 340HP range on the base 5AT
Maybe when the wifey starts working up here it'll be easier but I think a realistic goal is the stage 1's for next year and stage 2/custom cams and tuning the year after. lots of other projects to do too other than the power. But yes, 340+ whp would be a welcome sight for my chassis right now.
#1013
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Cha Ching Cha Ching though lol
Maybe when the wifey starts working up here it'll be easier but I think a realistic goal is the stage 1's for next year and stage 2/custom cams and tuning the year after. lots of other projects to do too other than the power. But yes, 340+ whp would be a welcome sight for my chassis right now.
Maybe when the wifey starts working up here it'll be easier but I think a realistic goal is the stage 1's for next year and stage 2/custom cams and tuning the year after. lots of other projects to do too other than the power. But yes, 340+ whp would be a welcome sight for my chassis right now.
cams = $800
MS3 ECU + couple other sensors = $1600
port and polish = $500
Valvetrain = $800
so ~$3700 right off the bat...
not to mention you will need various seals and stuff....
but yeah the only person who is gonna do the build for me would be Andy....he knows his shit....
Paul is a great guy as well and he does all the work in-home....so port and polish/etc he will be doing himself....with Andy you need to get all that done and he will help you with the build + tune the MS3
#1014
Are you ever gonna put a cage in? I want to but the 1k-2k price tag is stopping me for a custom welded in one.
If not have you considered using bracing bars? Do you think the added weight is worth it?
If not have you considered using bracing bars? Do you think the added weight is worth it?
#1016
The Track Terror
-Inlet ID 79mm
-Outlet ID 70mm
2012 TL TB:
-Inlet ID 80mm
-Outlet ID 70mm
TL = $550
ZDX = $192
TL:
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
ZDX:
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
Personally, I'm going with the ZDX...
Last edited by the fenda rolla; 09-24-2012 at 12:36 PM.
#1017
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fawk u Peter...where were you couple months back !!!
just make sure the bolts line up and you are good to do with a ZDX TB
just make sure the bolts line up and you are good to do with a ZDX TB
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also make sure the electronic connector on it matches....i see different part numbers for both the TB's and electronic connectors
#1019
The Track Terror
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103797
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/3-7-acura-tl-sh-intake-manifold-868868/
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well I do see anyone who has done that....
give it a shot just make sure all the electrical connectors are fine....you dont wanna end up with a sticky TB plate
none the less its worth it for the price difference....
also you might wanna check what model does it fit as the 3G TL and the 4G SHAWD TL manifold have different bolt patterns....
give it a shot just make sure all the electrical connectors are fine....you dont wanna end up with a sticky TB plate
none the less its worth it for the price difference....
also you might wanna check what model does it fit as the 3G TL and the 4G SHAWD TL manifold have different bolt patterns....
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^^^ well if the gasket fits the TB will FIT...
but the sensor is a common sensor...the 3G had the same sensor as well (different connector thow)....
the only thing i would worry about is the electronic module....check the pins/electrical circuit
but the sensor is a common sensor...the 3G had the same sensor as well (different connector thow)....
the only thing i would worry about is the electronic module....check the pins/electrical circuit
#1024
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yes...
all the connectors lined up and connected perfectly....
the only exception was the MAF sensor on the TB...i had to dremel the connector edges for it to fit but the pins lined up perfectly...
all the connectors lined up and connected perfectly....
the only exception was the MAF sensor on the TB...i had to dremel the connector edges for it to fit but the pins lined up perfectly...
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will take one today and post it up tomorrow
#1028
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#1029
Went ahead and tore into the car a bit tonight and got some updated weights for you guys on some stuff.
Front window glass, regulators, wiring harness, etc = 15lbs per side. And that's not including the steel on the inside of the door frame. So I'm thinking about making a quick removeable lexan front window that I can just remove before a track day but still have a closed window for transport and washes and what not. Should be good for at least 30lb of diet and maybe $100 in parts.
OEM mirrors weigh in at about 8.5lbs total. So switched to an aftermarket CF race mirror could see some weight loss along with some reduced aero drag down the side of the car.
I'll keep you posted on what I'm up too lol
Front window glass, regulators, wiring harness, etc = 15lbs per side. And that's not including the steel on the inside of the door frame. So I'm thinking about making a quick removeable lexan front window that I can just remove before a track day but still have a closed window for transport and washes and what not. Should be good for at least 30lb of diet and maybe $100 in parts.
OEM mirrors weigh in at about 8.5lbs total. So switched to an aftermarket CF race mirror could see some weight loss along with some reduced aero drag down the side of the car.
I'll keep you posted on what I'm up too lol
#1030
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^^^ Eager to see what you are upto....btw i hope Peter doesnt realize i forgot to take the picture
#1033
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#1034
I assume you want the lexan removable for safety/track rules for easy extraction in a rollover? What about all those race cars I see with the lexan windows with the cut out in the middle with the sliding window part?
#1035
-doesn't have a risk of shattering when being installed or taken out.
-Seals when on the trailer/being washed
-Could be run if cold/rainy as long as allowed by the track
-is lighter than glass
The little windows on some lexan windows are just for ventilation and I've already got some ducts doing that for me so I really wouldn't need to mess with that.
#1036
Spent the afternoon starting to pull all of the old excess wiring out of the car. Haven't weighed anything yet but there's a ton of navi, SRS, audio, power seat, etc. wires running down both door sills that I'm tired of working around so they're coming out right now! Should be pretty darn clean looking when I'm done. Also consider the removal of all sound deadening in the car a teaser for future posts.
#1039
I assumed you already removed the tar sound deadening. I want to clean up my wires also. Think the tar sound deadening weighed 20 something. Not sure because I added it together with the rubber/foam stuff.