Post Pics Of Your Trunks (Systems)
That stuff weighs .45 lbs a square foot. There are less than 30 square feet right now and when i finish it will be less than 40 ft. When you get it for a good deal, price isnt an issue. Plus ive been using it for as long as i remember and it does the best job of what ive seen. Easy to apply, no peeling, and not as heavy as some other stuff out there. There are a lot of new products out there that im sure work great but i just stick to this. Ive use raamat but it is really thin compared to dynamat. You would have to double it up to equal the dynamat. Im going to be running my subs in a fiberglass ap enclosure so that is a fraction of the weight of a typical mdf box. With all my equipment, wiring, sound deadening i dont expect to add more than 50 lbs total. Im ok with that being that this is a cruiser car.If it was a fast car then it would be another story. I love how quiet the car is with the damping too. I dont really hear much road noise and can have a normal conversation at 90 mph. No yelling required.
Props to the guy with the blue Acura LED Layout... Man that's crazy...
Here's my setup, it includes:
2 JL Audio 10W7's
1 JL Audio HD 600 for my Hi's
1 JL Audio HD 750 for my Lows
I'm thinking of adding another HD750 to double my wattage for the subs. Have an individual amp for each. The sound right now is VERY clean inside the vehicle.
Here's a pic.

I'm still not done with this system yet. Going to stick a leather panel inside and some red LED's in there as well. I'll post the finished product tomorrow or the next day.
Here's my setup, it includes:
2 JL Audio 10W7's
1 JL Audio HD 600 for my Hi's
1 JL Audio HD 750 for my Lows
I'm thinking of adding another HD750 to double my wattage for the subs. Have an individual amp for each. The sound right now is VERY clean inside the vehicle.
Here's a pic.

I'm still not done with this system yet. Going to stick a leather panel inside and some red LED's in there as well. I'll post the finished product tomorrow or the next day.
"In 2009, we are expanding the HD lineup with the addition of two exciting new models: the HD1200/1 Monoblock and the HD800/5 System Amplifier.
HD1200/1
In 2008, everyone was amazed by the watts per cubic inch offered by the HD750/1 monoblock. This year, we will “up the ante” even further with the introduction of its 1200W “evil twin”, which happens to share exactly the same chassis as its 750W sibling. This just might be the most clean power per cubic inch ever put into a car amplifier, and it’s all possible thanks to the outstanding efficiency of Single Cycle Control™ technology.
With frequency response that extends smoothly into treble range, the HD1200/1 will be used in many creative ways by adventurous users, but its primary mission in life is to drive subwoofers, so its feature set has been optimized for that purpose. It features a variable slope crossover, infrasonic filter, polarity reversal switch, remote level control port and preamp outputs.
Suddenly, huge subwoofer power can be installed almost anywhere."
HD1200/1 - 1200 Watt Monoblock
Type: Class D, Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier
Continuous Power:
1200W x 1 @ 1.5 - 4 ohms
(11.0V-14.5V supply with <0.08% THD+N)
Dimensions:
10.74 x 8.29 x 1.93 in.
(273 x 211 x 49 mm)
Available: 3rd Quarter, 2009
Hey, i got the same subs..the L7 kickers right?
I have it sitting around the garage from my previous car and was thinking about hooking it up, but im kinda worried about my warranty(can someone clarify please)
How much are u putting to it?
How does it knock in the trunk?
I have it sitting around the garage from my previous car and was thinking about hooking it up, but im kinda worried about my warranty(can someone clarify please)
How much are u putting to it?
How does it knock in the trunk?
yessir Kicker L7 it is, do it hook it em up...
regarding the warranty i dont think it would void it out

Im not puttin 2 much watts to it right now, but i sure can crank up alot... It knocks great in the trunk a lil rattle but not bad as i thought when i was gettin it installed
i used regular 1/2 inch nails, not wit the pointy tip tho
Haha! That looks so clean, man. I couldn't wait till Sunday to see it - thanks!
Looks smaller than I thought - that's not a bad thing. I'm really looking forward to hearing it
Dude, you will shit when you see my trunk. There are wires, crossovers, amps, etc. thrown everywhere. It's a blazing hot mess...
Looks smaller than I thought - that's not a bad thing. I'm really looking forward to hearing it
Dude, you will shit when you see my trunk. There are wires, crossovers, amps, etc. thrown everywhere. It's a blazing hot mess...
just keep it closed until its just us 2 and no one will know! lol
Its very small and compact, but it packs a punch
Don't worry about all the wires and crap, I'm in the same situation with my amp, I wanted to mount it somewhere else but was waiting for a custom rack. I didn't want to let you down so I said f it and told them just to place it there. Hopefully by the next meet, I'll be rocking with everything set up right.
Its very small and compact, but it packs a punch
Don't worry about all the wires and crap, I'm in the same situation with my amp, I wanted to mount it somewhere else but was waiting for a custom rack. I didn't want to let you down so I said f it and told them just to place it there. Hopefully by the next meet, I'll be rocking with everything set up right.
Thanks for taking a look, all feedback is appreciated.
The Vehicle Itself

Source Unit: Factory
Ipod Solution: USA Spec
Subwoofer Amplifier: Zapco iForce
Subwoofers: Treo TSX
Sound Damping: JML SD1
Source Unit: Factory
High Performance Battery: SVR
Battery Mounting and rewire


Ipod Solution

Sound Damping



Amplifier and subwoofer control layout



Truck Layout


The Vehicle Itself
Source Unit: Factory
Ipod Solution: USA Spec
Subwoofer Amplifier: Zapco iForce
Subwoofers: Treo TSX
Sound Damping: JML SD1
Source Unit: Factory
High Performance Battery: SVR
Battery Mounting and rewire
Ipod Solution
Sound Damping
Amplifier and subwoofer control layout
Truck Layout

hey Jason, i know your set-up will be ported. what do you think about a sub firing straight into the cabin through the port/ski pass? in my last system i had the sub both ways facing the trunk and firing into the cabin. i felt the sound to be cleaner and harder hitting facing the sub forward firing it into the cabin.
im about to start my system and i have a 10" w7 that will be perfect for that spot.
^ JP, I believe that's exactly what Jason's doing.
Steven, sorry buddy... the reveal is the best part of this mod. I'm not telling
Mike (Msala524) knows but I know he'll take this to the grave if I asked him to
Steven, sorry buddy... the reveal is the best part of this mod. I'm not telling

Mike (Msala524) knows but I know he'll take this to the grave if I asked him to
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 36,545
Likes: 6,470
From: Kansas City, MO (Overland Park, KS)
You guys are too funny! Well, good luck with the mod. I'm anxious to see the finished product guys!
OK fine.... I won't tell.
D'oh! I forgot to mention Raj has actually seen the setup in person. I should have given him hush money as well...
On another note... There was a change in plans today. The design is going to be a bit different. This is good news for me, but it will undoubtedly delay the reveal.
I should have just created a new thread for this. Seems like I'm taking over this one. Sorry!
On another note... There was a change in plans today. The design is going to be a bit different. This is good news for me, but it will undoubtedly delay the reveal.
I should have just created a new thread for this. Seems like I'm taking over this one. Sorry!
Trew's shit isnt just looks....it soumnds fkn amazing too! Super clean install & sound the total package! Believe it or not the cop standing there is a friend of the installer. Oh and btw the installer is a cop too..lol
Thanks eggy. I couldn't decide, so I went with caps. They complimented the design.
Thanks tc. The paint is true WDP and it actually matches the body better than the RJ kit paint job!
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 36,545
Likes: 6,470
From: Kansas City, MO (Overland Park, KS)
Holy Shit dude....that is unbelievably incredible. Combine that with the wheels and the RonJon kit....your car is rolling sex.
2008 Kansas City Acura Meet
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=714994
2008 Kansas City Acura Meet
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=714994
Trew Lookin good...
here comes the constructive criticism:
-They should've bondo matched the side panels and the main box. the gaps between the panels are killing me!
- They should've contoured the side pods to transition better to the enclosure itself.
- They should've flushed mounted the drivers!!!! argh...i'm just anal as hell though.
- now your trunk is useless... :/
- those side panels are bulky especially where they meet the trunk latch finisher panel...
- it needs the west coast flavor...the rule of 3 materials!!!
-Jason
PS...how's you're rattle action?
here comes the constructive criticism:
-They should've bondo matched the side panels and the main box. the gaps between the panels are killing me!
- They should've contoured the side pods to transition better to the enclosure itself.
- They should've flushed mounted the drivers!!!! argh...i'm just anal as hell though.
- now your trunk is useless... :/
- those side panels are bulky especially where they meet the trunk latch finisher panel...
- it needs the west coast flavor...the rule of 3 materials!!!
-Jason
PS...how's you're rattle action?
for you guys that kept the factory head unit when adding aftermarket amps...
did you guys pull the signal right out of the factory head unit, or after the factory amp? any pros and cons to each way?
and what to the speaker outputs on the back of the factory head unit look like? are they classic speaker posts or are they all in one connector like at the factory amp?
lastly is there any easy way to connect after market speaker wire to the connector that comes out of the factory amp? the connectors seem so tiny in there.
Thanks
did you guys pull the signal right out of the factory head unit, or after the factory amp? any pros and cons to each way?
and what to the speaker outputs on the back of the factory head unit look like? are they classic speaker posts or are they all in one connector like at the factory amp?
lastly is there any easy way to connect after market speaker wire to the connector that comes out of the factory amp? the connectors seem so tiny in there.
Thanks
for you guys that kept the factory head unit when adding aftermarket amps...
did you guys pull the signal right out of the factory head unit, or after the factory amp? any pros and cons to each way?
and what to the speaker outputs on the back of the factory head unit look like? are they classic speaker posts or are they all in one connector like at the factory amp?
lastly is there any easy way to connect after market speaker wire to the connector that comes out of the factory amp? the connectors seem so tiny in there.
Thanks
did you guys pull the signal right out of the factory head unit, or after the factory amp? any pros and cons to each way?
and what to the speaker outputs on the back of the factory head unit look like? are they classic speaker posts or are they all in one connector like at the factory amp?
lastly is there any easy way to connect after market speaker wire to the connector that comes out of the factory amp? the connectors seem so tiny in there.
Thanks

















