Ginoj56

It isn't annoying to drive in stop and go city traffic right? How much difference did you notice?

Packagingpro

I am a big fan of what K-Tuner has done. I feel the RDX should have come from the factory like this. Under normal driving, the car is fine. If you want to get on the throttle and have more spirited driving, you would definitely see the difference in performance. If you put the car in Comfort Mode, you would never know it was modded. No problem with Daily Driving.

2019MSM

Version 1.0.9.7

V1.2 Firmware Update

RDX 2.0T

· Quick Adjustments Added For Throttle, Turbo Responsiveness, and Turbo Ramping

BoBoish

Just did the update and put everything in the middle (except the highest throttle response). Love it! It feels like Sport+ without keeping the high RPMs.

SpaceBot

So Sport now feels like Sport+? What does Sport+ feel like then?

Ginoj56

So max for the throttle and the highest "improved" for the other 2 turbo settings? Is it too much if you max everything?

Burger Steak & Eggs

I'm loving this. The delays / lags are the worst part about driving the RDX, and here we have controls to eliminate them.

SpaceBot

So this is confirmed? Delays and lag are gone?

BoBoish

I may go back and try setting everything to high, but figured I'd play it somewhat conservative with the turbo.

Funz51

Think of what Acura does in the stock Sport+. They rev it higher to get that turbo spinning, which tells me the only reason they delay the turbo spinup (which they do on purpose) on the lower modes is to save gas, and less sensitive for the average Joe (nothing against Joe of course). Ktune is just doing the same but at the lower settings. Actually, Ktune is keeping the 'hanging' revs lower and still accomplishing the same. I am not going to worry about wearing out anything. Just make sure we cool down after we have our fun.

BoBoish

I have it maxed for throttle and turbo response, but only "Improved II" for turbo ramp. The other turbo ramps are "Aggressive I" and "II"...I shied away from those.

Funz51

lol, you soon will have no choice but to 'check em out'.....

2019MSM

Just an FYI since I wasn't sure of this. I talked with a guy at Ktuner today and he told me that the 1.0.9.7 adjustments For Throttle, Turbo Responsiveness, and Turbo Ramping start where 1.0.9.6 was set. So any change you make in 1.0.9.7 from what you see when you open the tune will be an increase from 1.0.9.6.

Ginoj56

So, by Setting all these quick adjustments to max with the stage 2 does not increase the boost pressure further right? Since stage 2 already increases boost, I suppose it is a safe level for the turbo?

I just test drove stage 2 in Sport mode with all the max quick adjustments, turbo was about full boost before hitting 3k, and pushed it to about 6,000+ rpm and was surprised I was hitting 94 already. I was kinda wondering if the turbo will blow up since the boost came too early.

My other concern, since the max boost comes too early, do you think it will damage something due to revving it longer with max boost (from 3k to 6k rpm perhaps)?

sonyfever

From what I read, the quick adjustments basically changes how aggressive the engine reaches max power. The max power doesn't change, you just get there sooner if you max everything out. From my experience with tuning cars, more aggressive/sensitive is not always the best, because too aggressive will be harder to drive the car smoothly in daily traffic. And MPG will go down as well.

If you max out everything, the transmission and SHAWD will for sure be stressed more because more abrupt changes of power. How bad obviously depends on your driving style.

Ginoj56

Thank you for that info and response, it's clearer to me now. Going back a bit to my concern, do you think achieving max power early and holding that power isn't going to break something (3k-6k)?

I test drove mine in the city too, my daily route to work with all the stops and traffic lights. Throttle feels way better, I observe I don't past 2.5k with my foot and turbo meter doesn't really turn orange since I'm a little conscious on how much I step on it. I'll probably stick with all the max settings and see if I can drive smoothly with it without pulling too hard unnecessarily to save gas and not cause too much wear.

I think it's also better to get max boost early right? That means the engine won't have to work all the way up to the higher bands to achieve the speed and power you need? If I understand it correctly. Putting that 10th gear to work too

Packagingpro

I am more concerned with the transmission holding up with the Ktuner. I think the primary reason the RDX has a low towing capacity of 1,500 LBS is because of the transmission limitations. Not sure if the additional torque will damage it.

Funz51

right, but the amount we go above is really not that much. We just get closer to the max torque, which I think is still quite a ways from the ktune running 330lbs, (peak, if fortunate). Point taken tho.

Ginoj56

The older gen RDX was maxed at 1,500 too and so is the CRV. All with different engines and transmissions, could it perhaps be that Honda/Acura never intended them to tow more than 1,500 lbs?

Our transmission might not handle that much torque though as you've said. Even the RLX has 272 of torque. I hope the added torque of stage 2 won't kill the tranny sooner.

Funz51

thinking...there are many many accord and civic owners with pumped engines and they are fine. I think as long as you don't beat the crap out of it, she will be fine...

Ginoj56

Yeah. I'll check on Accords in particular since we have the same tranny and engine. Probably drive hard once a month 😆

sonyfever

I am not worry about the increase amount of torque, but more concerned about the quicker ramping of power. Think about dumping clutch on a MT car, the more abrupt the power state changes, the more wears are put on the transmission clutches, if not gears and bearings as well. I would assume the heat capacity of the 10AT to be small, due to its compact size. Even with ATF radiator, I rather treat the AT with respect and make sure it has enough time or enough flowing air to cool down.

Taz69

Enjoy it guys. I had a 10th gen accord with K tuner and all these settings. Its been available for the Accord for years. You will be fine. You are still not making any more torque or HP than the old tune its just doing it sooner in the rpm range. That wont hurt nothing. Its a automatic so boost spikes between shifts are way less of an issue than if it was a manual car. Biggest thing you can do is run premium gas with these tunes. The stock knock sensors will keep it safe and premium gas will help from having knock happen with more boost at the lower rpms. The transmission will be fine just dont be stupid with it. I am glad to see the throttle lag you guys had when stock is now a thing of the past. Biggest reason I have not bought one yet. Can anyone say that when slowing down to 5mph and then getting back on the throttle that the lag the car had stock is gone?

For the front wheel drive Accord the advanced VSA settings also made it so much easier to floor the car around turns or from a traffic light and just not smoke the tires or kill the power. The VSA settings was a must in FWD only. Probably wont ever use it if you have the AWD.....

Ginoj56

nice. Are you running max settings with the 3 new quick adjustments? I'm considering setting the ramp to Improve II instead of aggressive II and leave the 2 settings on max, I don't want to stress the turbo too much in those low RPMs but we'll see.

I've driven a few miles yesterday with everything max with stage 2 tune. I can't tell if the lag you're referring to is completely gone, but on stop and go's it seems to be a lot more responsive and lighter on the throttle. Cruising at 60 and flooring it seems to eliminate that drive by wire lag we're getting before.

Taz69

Those " New quick adjustments" have been available on the Accord for years. I have the ramp set to improve II. But that is the way I uploaded it and have just left it. I have the other 2 on max like you. With the ramp set to aggressive it can make a little more heat in the turbo but I am not saying that it is to much just never changed it because the car feels fine. Drop the ramp down and see if you can feel any difference and if not it will make you feel better because it is a little easier on things. All it is doing is opening the waste gate further and earlier than before. But the more spool you have there is a little more heat generated.

Cuzz

Is there a "Tuning for Dummies" guide anywhere that I can try to learn more about the whole tuning concept?
Thanks

Taz69

No there really is not. But its not that bad. K-Tuner has already done all the work on the ignition and the fueling and the boost for the car. There is no need for anyone to adjust that stuff. With 18 psi max boost and the ignition curve you have there base tune is safe. All the other settings are as said quick adjustments or settings that you are choosing to change how and when the power comes on. You are changing the drive by wire to be faster or slower on the throttle. Playing with the traction control to be less intrusive. They are all safe to play with. On the Accord forum guys post what settings they have changed and use this forum to discuss things. But the engines base tune fuel ignition max boost you wont have to mess with and that use to be a huge thing for the consumer to figure out. Lots of dyno time or e tunes logging and sending back. You dont have to do that and can use all these other settings to change how the vehicle drives. But they are all safe to play with and try at there min and max settings because K-Tuner is not going to allow you to adjust something they have not already done on a dyno or had someone test it for a while. K-Tuner is a real good company and all there stuff is de-tuned for reliability. You cold get on a dyno and turn up the boost and fine tune the ignition and make more power and torque but you start stressing things at that point. And if your wife or anyone jumps in your vehicle throws a tank of 87 in when you been running 93 the safer settings will catch that and keep from hurting the engine. Higher boost and advanced ignition settings REQUIRE 93 octane.

Cuzz

Thanks Taz,
I guess I first have to get used to the idea of using 93 octane fuel, which I haven't done yet. Truthfully, the only thing I want from a tune is to remove that stupid top end limiter, or at least bump it up a bit to 120-125. That's where it should have been from the start.

Taz69

Here is just something I found from a Acura dealer. I will post the link. You dont have to run 93 with a tune. Turbo or super charged vehicles are more prone to knock. When your ECU detects it it will retard the ignition and you will make less power. More boost, and heat will cause knocking earlier with the same Octane of fuel. So on a hot day 90 outside and more boost over stock using 87 octane your car will experience knock vs the same vehicle using 93. It will run just fine. But it will be down on power. The new 2020 CX-5 is 227hp and 310tq on 87 and 250hp and 320tq on 93. So all that extra power that the Mazda is getting is just from advancing the ignition thats it. K-Tuner does have some ignition advance over your stock tune. But uses the stock knock sensor and the stock sensor count so it will not take a lot of detect times before it starts pulling timing. K-Tuner does it that way so your engine stays on the safe side always. Plus as it gets hot outside and using the stock intercooler the 93 is a lot more stable.

Stock boost is 15psi. K-tuner is 18 so its just more prone to knock is all..

https://www.continentalacura.com/doe...d-premium-gas/
https://www.torquenews.com/1083/mazd...-will-cost-you

Taz69

One more thing to add to the post above then I will shut up. ALL modern cars are always trying to slowly advance the ignition all the time until they detect so many knock per drive cycle. All vehicles. Now you stock tune it might take 4 tanks before it gets advanced enough to where it sees so many knocks and holds there. But it will drop the ignition in a quick minute. So if you drive on 93 for 5 or 6 tanks and then dump in all 87. It will pull it down fast and cause no damage. But if your next tank is 93 it will take 4 tanks for it to go all the way back up. K-Tuner does this a little faster. Still safe but it will only take about a tank or 2 for K-Tuner to get to max advance for the conditions. Just a plus of having the tune. Custom tunes run more ignition and make the ECU have more knock detects before it will retard to keep the ignition on advance. So a custom tune on 93 can be to slow to pull the timing if you have a empty tank and go straight to 87. So most custom tunes require 93 and guys driving with them just no this and dont do drastic octane changes.

Aftermarket intercoolers dont make more power. When its cold outside driving around stock or aftermarket intercooler your going to make the same power. But when it starts to warm up and get hot out. And you are drag racing or your doing high speed pulls or sitting at stop and go traffic they keep the air cooler going into the engine. Which in tern will not knock as early. Hot air will knock or detonate earlier with the same ignition curve than cooler air. The more boost you run the more prone to knock so after market intercooler will keep temps going into the engine cooler therefore more ignition and keeps the power up. You run a turbo car on a dyno 5 times back to back its going to make less hp each run because of the heat. A larger intercooler will see less drop is all...

Ginoj56

RDX has only 15 psi on stock? 18 psi is for stage 2? I thiught it was 20+ for stage 2. 😀 nice to know

Funz51

if you look at my post on 12-27-2019, 07:48 PM on this thread you will see that I measured 25 lbs boost on stage two using a ktune graph. Now that is targeted, but if you use a OBD2 transmitter, you will find about that number.

Funz51

https://www.continentalacura.com/doe...d-premium-gas/
https://www.torquenews.com/1083/mazd...-will-cost-you

260 lbs of T for RDX?, it is 280. (second link) Sounds like some good ole fashioned marketing.... incorrect figures from competitor.

Taz69

Yea you are correct. I used a OBD2 and did 3 runs stock stage1 and stage 2. I was looking at my stage 1... Stock 15psi. Stage 1 18.5psi and Stage 2 21.5psi My bad....
Yea I was just trying to say that higher octane will make less knock and more power. With over 21psi on stage 2 I would not run nothing but 93. Thats what I run in my Accord. Which I will be trading in soon for a RDX lol.

Funz51

no worries...

SpaceBot

I thought 91 was fine? No 93 here in California.

Taz69

Yea 91 is fine. I live in NC and we have 93. Just use whatever the highest is around you..

Funz51

Ktuner 1.0.9.8 is available. see Version History
Looks like the V1.2 firmware update is the most interesting.

Padre Dave

If I am reading that documentation correctly 10.9.8 doesn't offer anything new for the RDX. The 10.9.7 added a bit more as we have discussed here. I just refreshed my car yesterday (I took it back to stock when the dealer accused me of voiding the warranty. I did manage to enlighten him, and then his boss agreed with me so.....I've been promised a resolution of the VIN/ECU numbers mismatch sooner than later, so I will take it back to the dealer for that resolution but will leave my Stage 2 installed (but will have the K-Tuner in the back seat just in case....)

KSeriesTuner

We own the vehicle, so we have done plenty of safety testing at levels above what you get in the base tunes.