another solution for my auto CL guys
i just do it myself, but you are probably not able to though
cost, i would say including labor, be around what a normal replacement tranny be, maybe a little cheaper, so basically i would say plan around what a regular replacement would be
and a trustworthy auto tech, call up the local tow trucks (especially the bigger ones for the voluming) they should have a pretty good idea of what kind of works each shop does, also tool dealers (like snap-on, matco, mac, cornwell) will have a good idea, they talk to each shop alot of times at least once a week or so, and get a good idea of their dealings (FYI: the chain shops like "brakes plus" and such genially are the worst due to them having to make a quota for corporate)
thats not the end all to finding a good shop, but will head you in the right direction
also for your current car, start taking it to different shops for oil changes, to get a feeler of the various shops around, so not much money is on the table at the time, you will get a good feeling of how they treat there customers and stuff just from that (also sometimes they are extremely busy, which might not be normal, so give some shops a second chance before you completely make up your mind)
cost, i would say including labor, be around what a normal replacement tranny be, maybe a little cheaper, so basically i would say plan around what a regular replacement would be
and a trustworthy auto tech, call up the local tow trucks (especially the bigger ones for the voluming) they should have a pretty good idea of what kind of works each shop does, also tool dealers (like snap-on, matco, mac, cornwell) will have a good idea, they talk to each shop alot of times at least once a week or so, and get a good idea of their dealings (FYI: the chain shops like "brakes plus" and such genially are the worst due to them having to make a quota for corporate)
thats not the end all to finding a good shop, but will head you in the right direction
also for your current car, start taking it to different shops for oil changes, to get a feeler of the various shops around, so not much money is on the table at the time, you will get a good feeling of how they treat there customers and stuff just from that (also sometimes they are extremely busy, which might not be normal, so give some shops a second chance before you completely make up your mind)
i will copy and paste this post onto word lol, i'll definitely be referrin to it in the near future...thanks!
^hey i see your from vancouver also... you should go hit up "garage5" in richmond they do alot of work on import cars theyve done alot of engine swaps and stuff like that
im completely new to the whole moddin the car action...i was wonderin, wehre do u get ur aftermarket shiet
haha its all good theres also another place called "MF Technology" on marine and heather they do custom performance work too
and for aftermarket parts depends on what you need if its performance parts i order them online from either heeltoeauto.com or excelerateperformance.com
if you need hid's and leds bulbs and stuff i know this guy in richmond gives krazy deals
and usually for general maintenance of my car i take it to a place called ground zero in richmond the guy there does awesome work for good prices
and for aftermarket parts depends on what you need if its performance parts i order them online from either heeltoeauto.com or excelerateperformance.com
if you need hid's and leds bulbs and stuff i know this guy in richmond gives krazy deals
and usually for general maintenance of my car i take it to a place called ground zero in richmond the guy there does awesome work for good prices
Last edited by kdawg8526; Feb 11, 2010 at 01:47 PM.
haha its all good theres also another place called "MF Technology" on marine and heather they do custom performance work too
and for aftermarket parts depends on what you need if its performance parts i order them online from either heeltoeauto.com or excelerateperformance.com
if you need hid's and leds bulbs and stuff i know this guy in richmond gives krazy deals
and usually for general maintenance of my car i take it to a place called ground zero in richmond the guy there does awesome work for good prices
and for aftermarket parts depends on what you need if its performance parts i order them online from either heeltoeauto.com or excelerateperformance.com
if you need hid's and leds bulbs and stuff i know this guy in richmond gives krazy deals
and usually for general maintenance of my car i take it to a place called ground zero in richmond the guy there does awesome work for good prices
ok guys not cool just had a horrible experience. earlier i was trying to get the car out to go to the store but it was stuck in the snow, so i finally gave up and went to put the shifter back to the park possition and it would not go(not even neutral or reverse it feels like its stuck) i decided to turn the car off and then back on and see if that would help but no luck. now the car wont start and the shifter is stuck in drive and i cant get the key out. any ideas?
If the cars in drive then you cant turn it off and get the key out I think every car is like that, I think there is a way too manually shift it into neutral but im not sure how NVA would probably know Good luck man sorry cant help more
I know when I got the car the shifter cable was routed thru the sway bar and was pretty kinked, but seemed to be fine after the installation and re-routing, check to make sure the cable is intack near the trans housing, after strightening it, it may have frayed internally and may need to be replaced. With your mounts being bad the extra movement may have stressed it, especially if getting on her a bit.
The cable is part number 19 in the link below.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
The cable is part number 19 in the link below.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
Last edited by NVA-AV6; Feb 12, 2010 at 03:56 AM.
I know when I got the car the shifter cable was routed thru the sway bar and was pretty kinked, but seemed to be fine after the installation and re-routing, check to make sure the cable is intack near the trans housing, after strightening it, it may have frayed internally and may need to be replaced. With your mounts being bad the extra movement may have stressed it, especially if getting on her a bit.
The cable is part number 19 in the link below.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
The cable is part number 19 in the link below.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
Thanks Rajca im going out there to try to do this now. Do i need to be pressing down on something specific to get it to shift? i hope it turns on once i get it into park.
Now that I was able to put it in park and get the key out I tried to turn the ignition on but nothing, it won't even crank. The battery is not dead cause everything works radio, windows, and the seats. It just won't turn on or even give that noise that it makes when it want to start.
any ideas?
Thanx in advance
Thanx Rajca worked like a charm 
Now that I was able to put it in park and get the key out I tried to turn the ignition on but nothing, it won't even crank. The battery is not dead cause everything works radio, windows, and the seats. It just won't turn on or even give that noise that it makes when it want to start.
any ideas?
Thanx in advance
Now that I was able to put it in park and get the key out I tried to turn the ignition on but nothing, it won't even crank. The battery is not dead cause everything works radio, windows, and the seats. It just won't turn on or even give that noise that it makes when it want to start.
any ideas?
Thanx in advance
almost sounds like the "ignition fuse" might have blown or something, but need a more specific description of whats working and whats not working
or a ignition switch even, but it normally will still start , and die as soon as the key is turned back
does the radio turn on, or at least all the dash lights???
almost sounds like the "ignition fuse" might have blown or something, but need a more specific description of whats working and whats not working
or a ignition switch even, but it normally will still start , and die as soon as the key is turned back
almost sounds like the "ignition fuse" might have blown or something, but need a more specific description of whats working and whats not working
or a ignition switch even, but it normally will still start , and die as soon as the key is turned back
when I went to turn the car on the gear display on the dash said reverse so I wiggled the shift knob and i was able to put it neutral and it turned right on.
Now the problem is that when the shift knob is in park the gear display on the dash indicated that its on neutral and when I shifted the shift knob to reverse the gear display on the dash says that its in D5.
What the Fuck ????
sounds like the range select switch is outta sync with were the shifter is, which could be the shifter cable being broken or something, but it would not be shifting both ways though (it has to both push and pull a lever)
but it sounds more like the range select switch was not tightened properly or something, (it's on the tranny itself) so the different "electronic range" compared to the "mechanical range" of the shifter
but it sounds more like the range select switch was not tightened properly or something, (it's on the tranny itself) so the different "electronic range" compared to the "mechanical range" of the shifter
Last edited by friesm2000; Feb 12, 2010 at 05:33 PM.
Ok guys update I managed to star the car up.
when I went to turn the car on the gear display on the dash said reverse so I wiggled the shift knob and i was able to put it neutral and it turned right on.
Now the problem is that when the shift knob is in park the gear display on the dash indicated that its on neutral and when I shifted the shift knob to reverse the gear display on the dash says that its in D5.
What the Fuck ????
when I went to turn the car on the gear display on the dash said reverse so I wiggled the shift knob and i was able to put it neutral and it turned right on.
Now the problem is that when the shift knob is in park the gear display on the dash indicated that its on neutral and when I shifted the shift knob to reverse the gear display on the dash says that its in D5.
What the Fuck ????
just saying; seems strange for a cable to just "stretch" like that and that far also (two gears/positions) 
ethier way the ecu is not seeing the correct gear positon that it wants to see when the shifter is in that position, so the no start condition

ethier way the ecu is not seeing the correct gear positon that it wants to see when the shifter is in that position, so the no start condition
take it back to the mechanic that worked on it 
or a ship and tell the to adjust the cable. their will be a cover on the bottom/back of the trans. think 3 bolts are holding the cover. easy fix

or a ship and tell the to adjust the cable. their will be a cover on the bottom/back of the trans. think 3 bolts are holding the cover. easy fix
Paul can you return my calls please.
ur not gonna ruin it.ur just short a gear. the trans is all fine. just put it in d5 so R in ur case. and in neutral so P in ur case, take out the key and set the ebrake till u fix it.
so better to play safe then be

and if it is indeed just the cable stretching or something, then no problem driving it, but you don't know that, till it can actually be look at
the issue i see, is that the computer may try changing to a higher gear, so valves and such change, while hydrualicly it won't allow it, which may cause slipping and such (or actually mechanically overrevving the engine, and you all ready knows what that does rajca [bent valves] (remember each gear share the same valves, it is the combination of them being "ON" that sets the gear)
so better to play safe then be

and if it is indeed just the cable stretching or something, then no problem driving it, but you don't know that, till it can actually be look at
so better to play safe then be

and if it is indeed just the cable stretching or something, then no problem driving it, but you don't know that, till it can actually be look at
. soon it will be all better, stronger, faster
What happened here is when the stealership last replaced the tranny under "warrenty" they routed the cable between the k-frame and sway bar, why I do not know but I stopped trying to figure dumbazz stuff like that a while ago. Now when I installed the newer tranny I routed the cable properly, but it already had a kink in it, when I tested it all seemed to be well, but obviously with a little time it screwed up, so I am getting him a new cable ASAP and will get it installed.
good to hear that everythings good now. yea that kit is going to look good. i think my cl looks so much better with this kit on. getting that tl atlp exhaust to fit shouldnt be that much work. its a direct fit for the cl just a tad bit longer.
Thanks p.diddy for the quick reply to my question about the function and reliability so far of a newer tranny swap. Very glad to hear that it is working out so well. I hope others who swap in a newer transmission will continue to chime in so we can track the outcomes.
I have a CLS 6spd, but a four door automatic would be a lot more practical as an everyday car for the family and I've always liked the look of the 2nd Gen TL-S. My mechanic is checking to see if this is something he would do for me here in Socal.
I have a CLS 6spd, but a four door automatic would be a lot more practical as an everyday car for the family and I've always liked the look of the 2nd Gen TL-S. My mechanic is checking to see if this is something he would do for me here in Socal.





